If/when I'm doing returns, I'll gladly take checks. I don't have to load/liquidate and can keep CCCs' bonus category points.

Letting them send you PIN-enabled/VR will cost them, so they may learn to change something with this 18 series. So, that's a good idea.

I mainly mentioned it because I've seen a lot of people complain that CVS won't allow them to purchase VR with GC (though I've rarely had trouble), but with AEFT if you only unload $400 per month per card, it's cheaper than buying VR, and you can load right before the end of the month so you don't have too large of a balance on the cards (i.e. use this month and next month's free withdrawal within a few days of the load). I use a $1 ATM which is 0.25% cost and the load itself is 0.3% cost (actually a little lower, as it's $1 per $401 not per $400 and $3 per $1003 not $3 per $1000, but close enough) which is a total of 0.55%. If you only have access to Costco, it's slightly more expensive at $1.25 per $400 = 0.3125% plus 0.3% to load = 0.6125%, but if you have access to a fee-free ATM it's a great proposition.

Yes, I have found variable load ones with the new style that start with 35 (and have working PINs).

That won't lead to profit at times (I don't mean a main CC earning 5x @CVS or whatever, deduct fees from it and comes above). You always lose with liquidation fee (GC -> VR conversion without getting points). If you really have no choice, then that's what'll have to be...

@Lemma: Did you try 18-th series to buy MOs and failed?

Maybe I will visit ALDI tomorrow to create the case :-)

I take it that you are referring to the actual # that is embossed on the card itself. Question is how to tell before actually purchasing the GC which # will be on the card. No #s on the back of the pkg comes close to 4847xx

I did notice several new designs but Im left wondering is a person buys say the old Gold pkg $20-500 can the GC have a 18 on it or will all of them have 35s, is theer any way to know?

Actual number, corrrect.
The card itself looks like this.
In my case it's $200 fixed.

The package contain small IMAGE of the card. One can tell the difference with card design. (Larger "Gift" word vertically centered, etc.)

Old package design (gold/silver) should all be fine. New package designs I've seen both working and non-working but mostly non-working.

How does the new card differ from the old card in looks.I dont have any of my old cards still but the pic you posted looks exactly like my old ones did

OK Thanks, wish someone would have stated this way up thread to make it alot easier for everyone. Best bet for now seems to stay away from the fancy design pkgs and go with the old. To be better off buy 1 open it and if a 35 go buy some more, if 18 then move on

Nobody posted it because nobody knew it. I figured this all out last week by buying a whole bunch of different cards and getting declined a bunch of times at Walmart until I figured out the patterns.

Card designs:
New (gloreglabert's pic)
Old (found on Iternet to illustrate)

Thanks. I have some new style VGC's that I used to buy MO's at WM but they all begin with 484735.

Thanks now for some PIF (paying it forward)

Just went to a CV and low and behold almost every single pkg of VGCs has a little pic of the card itself on the front. So I suggest everyone to get a good look at the 2 different pics that pier11 linked to and make sure you get the the pkg showing the old card design in the little pic on the front

For now I think thats the only way to be sure you dont end up SOL

I didnt get any since Im still looking for VRs

I'm new to this and am trying to figure out what is the benefit of using the Vanilla VR vs The VR VC. Is it just because the process fee is less?