TRAVELSIG

I travel quite a bit and would definitely say that for quality of the beach and water wella and the surrounding area are worth it- there are other places to stay if you don't want an Aman- if you want a secluded beach with beautiful water and swaying palm trees- I have found very few areas comparable with Tangalle. Simply gorgeous.

livefromtuscany

aa213bb, thanks so much for this live-report and the many pictures. We have been debating a trip to the Sri Lanka Amans for a long time, but some problems (lack of privacy, backyard pool, service issues) have put us off so far. I am happy to hear that the GM is planning to gradually improve on these shortcomings.

Did you take any pictures of the renovated suite 104 as well? I am wondering what has changed, as 306 does not look like it's in need of renovations, at least on your pictures.

I am looking forward to the continuation of the trip report!

aa213bb

I apologize for the drop-off in posting ... I caught that absolutely vicious, nasty bug going around the US, and have only really just gotten over it -- thankfully in time to make my weekend in Amangiri (posting from the library now).

I absolutely promise to answer all questions, as well as finish the Amanwella and Amangalla reports this week.

aa213bb

COLOR COMMENTARY

We booked the “Fort & Beach” package and spent four nights at Amanwella, which seems to be the perfect amount of time.

There are, obviously, many things one can do from Amanwella, but for us, it was all about relaxation, and so most of our days were spent in the same fashion …

Wake up > Breakfast > Coconut Grove > Lunch > Pool > Cleanup > Dinner > Sleep

We loved relaxing in the Coconut Grove, listening to the surf and just relaxing. The attendants there were always on their toes, and would leap to if we even looked like we wanted to move our chaises into/out of the sun. They also will move to the tree line and watch while you go in the water, acting as lifeguards.


And, they were wonderful about ensuring our water was cold and plentiful, and periodically brought out treats (e.g. smoothies, ice cream, and the like). My only complaint with beach service is that there can be a touch of confusion if you’d like to order food or drinks. It seems drinks are fine, but one needs to go the beach club for food (I admit I may be absolutely incorrect on this, though it is the impression I got).

Speaking of food, we found it to be quite good at Amanwella.


We even had a lovely, private and romantic dinner on the beach one night. Charlie, the F&B Director of both Wella and Galla – who is irresistibly charming and very eager to ensure each guest has a perfect time – stayed with us and made sure we had a fantastically special evening.

We also each had a spa treatment – I don’t remember which ones, but we were both quite satisfied. I do wish the property had a dedicated spa, though.

As our primary focus was strictly “R&R”, we only took one excursion … the Mulgirigala Rock Temple tour.


This was fine, and might be worth doing just to experience sunset perched high on a rock bluff. But that being said, your guide is just a local at the temple – ours was a young man who was quite nice – and if you’ve experienced temples elsewhere, I don’t see this holding great appeal.


Service was generally good, but there definitely can be a bit of a language/cultural barrier. Too, we found some employees a bit more reticent/shy than others – some were quite engaging, while others much more reserved (though still pleasant).

Our suite was cleaned/refreshed/turned down whenever we were out, and the turndown staff did a lovely job of creating a romantic bath each night with flowers and candles. They also left us with lovely little gifts each night, from sweets to woven hats to tea, and others.


Finally, it was time to say goodbye. We received a fantastic farewell – almost the entire staff turned out to bid us adieu, lead by Pietro, and we were presented with a few lovely gifts to take with us, along with Amanwella leather luggage tags for each bag.

And as we rode away, everyone waved, and continued waving, until we rounded the bend and were out of sight.

UP NEXT ... Amanwella Final Thoughts

aa213bb

FINAL THOUGHTS

Overall, I was very impressed by the management of Amanwella … I’ve said it repeatedly, but Pietro is the best GM with whom I have ever had the pleasure of interacting. From pre-arrival through our move to Amangalla, he did everything he could to ensure we had a wonderful time. He is a true asset to Aman, and I will happily follow him to any property he manages.

Unfortunately for him, I feel he is really hampered by poor physical design choices – though he is attempting to rectify these where possible, and has ideas for overall improvements.

Chief among these, as I have mentioned, is the terrible design of the Plunge Pools. Located in an enclosed courtyard, as you've seen, they are all but unusable. These should have been placed where the back patios are, so that you may lounge in them while looking out towards the Indian Ocean. Pietro told me he knows of his guests frustrations about these, and really would like to move them to the above mentioned idea -- and if not all of them, then at least some, potentially leading to three (or more) suite categories.

Another complaint I would raise is the lack of privacy many suites (including some Ocean Suites) have. As I mentioned, the way the pools are currently designed, one may easily see into any random suite's pool area while walking down a path -- thankfully Pietro is rectifying this by having doors installed in the entryways, which should be completed soon, if not already.


In terms of which suites to book ...

If booking an Ocean Suite, I would recommend the higher numbered 100-level ones as the best on the property. They are elevated enough so that those walking or riding by (in the TukTuk) cannot see inside. But do note, these can be a bit of a hike from the main areas (pool, restaurant, etc).

If you like being close to everything, any of 101 - 104 is your best bet. But note, these are extremely "un-private". The only road in and out of reception (so for those arriving/departing the property as well as when guests walk or take the TukTuk to/from the main area) leads right by these, AND their patio looks out onto the public boat area where fisherman can be, along with being visible from the main pool.


And if booking a standard Suite, I would recommend 304 - 307


I would rate Amanwella as follows:

Management: 11/10
Food: 8.5/10
Service: 7.5/10
Location: 9/10
Hard Product: 7.5/10

Amanwella Pros:
- Phenomenal GM
- Gorgeous beach, with beautiful water
- Very good food
- Freshly remodeled suites
- Ocean Suites have lovely views over the Indian Ocean
- Good Spa Treatments
- Pathways can be steep (exercise!)

Amanwella Cons:
- Plunge Pools terribly designed
- No Fitness Facilities
- No Spa Facilities
- General layout of Suites in relation to one another (e.g. 200 & 300 level Suites can have poor views/views into other suites, 101-104 look onto public boat area)
- Pathways can be steep (there is a TukTuk to take you about)
- Beach is Public; not a big deal, but more an FYI … we would see a couple of gents selling shells each day, and one day a group of 10 or so backpackers set up down at the end of the beach, though were shooed far enough down by the beach attendants)

UP NEXT ... Amangalla

aa213bb

Might be worth considering fitting this in during your drive from TT to AW; would definitely be a long day, but might help to break the drive up ... maybe someone else who has done this (or at least considered it) can chime in?

I emailed him first, and found him to be wonderfully helpful and responsive. As for the beach, I believe it depends on the time of year you go. Even in early December, though, the surf could be a bit too rough for the younger one -- not having children, I'm not sure about the 7yo.

Once in the water, though, it was very pleasant and pretty calm.

You are welcome -- please keep in mind that I did not take any shots from the Ocean Suites; I'm hoping someone else will post a few, as those are definitely the rooms to book.

Agreed. Very beautiful, and I mentioned in my discussion of Tea Trails, they have plans on opening a boutique property in Tangalle sometime later this year/early '14.

I did, but then deleted them while on-site. As I mentioned, it's simply a buff/shine/replace with new (but same) materials. There may be some minor departures, but I'm not quite sure. Perhaps behuman or Larkin can chime in?

In person I felt 306 could use a refresh, but it was still in good shape.

Larkin

Thank you for such a great write-up on Amanwella! As you know we were there shortly after your visit - actually a few days after New Years, coming from tea trails and amangalla. I am in agreement with much of what you say. For us the highlights were as follows:
- beautiful beach. Even though resort full never seemed crowded as sun beds spread out nicely across the cocoanut grove. Excellent service on the beach as well, although we did not try to eat there!
- we loved the beautiful views from our room which was oceanfront suite #110. It was more private than most others ( people walking by could not see into the swimming pool although we only used it to briefly rinse off on occasion), and we were high up enough from the lower beach in front that passerby could not really see. I think it and the others in that section ( I think 106-111) were best in the ocean front category. 112-113 also great and very private but conjoined so best if you are travelling with friends or family, or hotel low occupancy so both rooms not filled.
- it was not as luxurious nor was the service as great as some of our many other Aman experiences, but I had expected that going in, and the employees seemed very sweet, and ver willing to do whatever they could do. Just more mistakes than usual, and sometimes a bit slow. We were there for 5 nights and Pietro was gone 3 of them and you could tell the difference. Not a real complaint for us as we had a wonderful time and had expected a more laid back experience.
- for us we thought the food was Good, but not great.May have been the high occupancy of the hotel, but we liked the food better as both amangalla and tea trails, but the executive chef was out with a broken ankle so I am sure that had an impact.

Overall we thought Pietro was terrific, loved the beautiful beach, fabulous views, and would return. I just want to set the expectations of aka junkies that quite at the same level as many other Amans, particularly in Asia! ( although had great service at sveti Stefan and amanruya last summer)!

FlyerEC

Thank you!

Have also heard not so positive on both & hope the GMs get the renovations/ upgrading, etc approved.
At least Sara & Taka must have figured out their pools from problems here

zigzag

Wow, so it has been a long time since I was at Amanwella and seems the problems I had are still around. The GM takes off for three days while the hotel is at high occupancy? The hotel staff lets you know the chef broke his ankle? When I was there the food was not good and not varied enough. When you followed the path to the beach club you wondered why you bothered to walk there, it was far from inviting. The entrance to the suites is a problem, as i experienced walking out of the pool naked and looking at someone coming down the path looking right in. This could have been solved with a door(GM was kind and brought huge plants) but it takes them this long to fix the design flaw? The AC was sub par and we spent a good amount of time in the library as it was the only cool spot on the property. How is the hot box? The toilet room was like a oven if you closed the door. I hated this hotel! Was there a table near by the lounge chairs in the picture you have of the beach? It looks like they forgot to have little table next to each lounge chair (or one to share) and would have to place your things in the sand.

aa213bb

I'm glad you enjoyed it! And thanks for chiming in with your thoughts on the Ocean Suites, as well as expectation management. And I agree, if in the area I would definitely return for some R&R.

You're certainly welcome!

And while I haven't been to either Sara or Taka - hoping to later this year - I was just at Giri, and feel they've done the same, ridiculous thing with their pools. From looking at pics of other Aman properties, it seems many do this, no?

Why!?!?!

Wow! You really disliked your experience. Sorry to read that. When was it?

For your points, both Larkin and I agree the food is good -- is it Per Se or Noma? Of course not, but I found there to be a variety of solid to good dishes, with a fair amount of diversity ... plus they are always willing to cook off menu.

I am indifferent towards the Beach Club itself, but loved the Coconut Grove beach area. And yes, there are tables available next to the chaises, and if you have the attendants move your chairs more into the sun, they will set up tables for you -- I asked them to wait while I took that picture, because I didn't want them in it.

As I showed in one of the pictures, doors are being installed to give more privacy to the pool courtyards.

We had no problems with our AC; in fact, several times we would turn it down due to the suite getting so cool ... and I'm hot-natured.

Kagehitokiri

>
FYI those numbers by themselves "look" bad

speaking of food http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/luxur...ry-hotels.html

edit - forgot, seriously amazing number of great (illustrative) pics ^

aa213bb

Fair point, and based on the "deer points" concept, the number would drop markedly -- I would say to a 2 or so.

I should admit, I don't judge hotel food by the same measures I use for my restaurant visits. My wife and I love food, and plan our city-based trips around the meals/restaurants/snacks/bakeries/etc we plan to try ... which I rarely find to be in hotels (though there are exceptions, e.g. Dinner by Heaton in the MO in London)

But I also feel it unreasonable to expect flair, inventiveness, and sophistication at destination resorts. Why would I? Much as I might like it, they have no incentive (even the likes of Aman, 4S, MO, etc) to provide it as we guests are a captive audience.

So, back to the topic at hand, the food is good, but (caveat) for a destination property located in a non-1st world country.

behuman

aa213bb with his trip reports really hits the point and his descriptions are of huge help to all FTalkers wishing to visit Sri Lanka.

May I address three points regarding Amanwella which have been raised:

Pietro is now the GM of Amangalla AND Amanwella and mostly based in Galle. So it was not him taking three days off, but simply being at his main base. Olivia left Amangalla for the Venice opening. How this will affect Amanwella might be of concern.

Privacy at the weird backside pools (probably a Geoffrey Bawa style design idea) will be enhanced by the application of entrance doors soon.

The front row units have been heavily affected by the constant salty sea breeze. So the mirrors are blind and the sliding doors not sliding at all. The renovation works concern mainly these points, but are less needed at the back units.

aa213bb

We left Amanwella, setting out for the ~ 2 hr drive to Amangalla. behuman had been kind enough to recommend a short, interesting stop along the way, which I would recommend others give a shot if it sounds appealing.

Perhaps 30 – 45 minutes drive from Amanwella there is a lighthouse, located at the southern-most point of the Indian subcontinent.


If you are so inclined, the keeper – for a small “donation” (I think around 750 LKR/pp) – will give you a quick tour, and take you to the top platform and let you enjoy the views, which are quite lovely.


As I said, this is the Southern-most point in the whole of the Indian subcontinent, and from this point looking south lies no land before Antarctica ... only thousands of kilometers of water.


Along with his tour, the keeper will, if you ask nicely, turn the light on, and show you the radar that tracks ships several hundred nautical miles out. We found this an interesting way to break up the drive!

After packing back up into the car, we completed our drive, and before too long found ourselves pulling up to Amangalla, where we were greeted by GM Olivia Richli (now at Venice preparing for opening) and shown about.


We were also shown to the Spa, and more importantly, the Baths ... one of my favorite spots on the property (no pictures from me, but here are the appropriate ones on the Amangalla website)


There are two Baths, and each is available on a first-come basis for an hour; simply stop by or call the spa, and they will arrange them with candles, towels, and then get you settled on arrival -- these are private baths, for just you and your party to enjoy, and I found them to be wonderfully relaxing.

Besides the pool pictured, there is a cold plunge pool, sauna, and steam-room in each bath area, along with a large locker room/changing area, restroom facilities and a shower. These are basically private Spa facilities.

After our tour, Olivia led us down the hallway to our Suite, #22


NEXT UP ... Our Suite

aa213bb

Before I show you our room, I would like to make a few points.

In emailing with Pietro before our arrival at Amanwella, I mentioned that a similar email I had sent to Olivia had not elicited a response, and I wanted to ensure I had her correct address. He made it a point to say that he would be happy to help, and I made a few small requests in terms of what we were looking for in a room.

While at Amanwella, he mentioned he had placed us in Suite #8, which is probably the most popular suite at Amangalla as it sits in the upper floor corner and has views both over the bay as well as the Dutch church, fort, and lighthouse.

However, after several conversations he mentioned he felt we might be happier in either #21 or #22, due to my stated preference for absolute peace and quiet. These are located all the way down the hallway from reception (pictured above), and sit above the spa with no one above (or below, obviously). Thus they are extremely quiet and private. The downside, though, is that views are out over the gardens, and not the fort or water.


As we were getting settled, our luggage arrived along with our Butler, Krishantha, carrying two glasses of iced tea and a small carafe of simple syrup to sweeten them ... very refreshing after the drive and with the heat.

UP NEXT ... Amangalla Color Commentary