Mendoza (MDZ) - the ultimate Q&A thread
Jan 2, 2016, 6:31 pm
#556
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 17
Long time lurker here. Just returned from Mendoza today and found this thread extremely helpful in planning the trip. Figured I would share some of my experiences as a reference for others below. Overall, we found Mendoza to be fantastic and loved the city proper as well as the broader area - only complaint was the trip was too short!
- Stayed at Park Hyatt and thoroughly enjoyed it. Service was excellent and Concierge was top notch and exceptionally responsive. Rooms were slightly dated, but very clean and overall fine. Loved the location.
- 2 days of wine tasting, one arranged through the Hyatt directly, and one with Miguel Sanz who has been discussed thoroughly on this thread. Enjoyed both days, and cost was roughly the same, but Miguel was a fantastic guide and exceptionally knowledgeable. Found we got a lot more out of our day with him, and thought it was a good value for the service provided. Highest recommendation.
- Wineries: Achival Ferrer, Lagarde, Norton and Camelo Patti are not to be missed. Achival Ferrer produces some exceptional wines, and does a fantastic tour with a from-the-barrel tasting. Lagarde and Norton both served an exceptional lunch, with Norton's La Vid restaurant producing some amazing dishes, but Lagarde overall providing a more refined and interesting experience (with significantly better wines - highly suggest taking them up on the offer to upgrade the wine pairings with lunch, pours are generous and the wines exceptional). Carmelo Patti is a character, his enthusiasm contagious, and his wines generally high quality and a very good value.
- Restaurants: Francis Mallman 1884 was a very enjoyable dinner. Fantastic wine list and food, with just OK service. ~$120 for 2 people, excluding service - found this to be on the expensive end for Argentina but overall a very good value to this NYer. Azafran was also very enjoyable with a great outdoor seating area and slightly more refined food.
- Misc: We purchased a lot of wine and olive oil to bring home. Sol y Vino (around the corner from the Hyatt) had shipping boxes to bring wine home as checked baggage, as well as a great selection of wine at competitive prices (in line with those at the wineries). Fingers crossed that all is intact as Lan / Tam misplaced our baggage....I'll avoid commenting on the experience transiting via GRU on New Year's day as the only words appropriate to describe that experience are not suitable for a public forum.
Hope this is a helpful reference for anyone planning a visit to Mendoza!
- Stayed at Park Hyatt and thoroughly enjoyed it. Service was excellent and Concierge was top notch and exceptionally responsive. Rooms were slightly dated, but very clean and overall fine. Loved the location.
- 2 days of wine tasting, one arranged through the Hyatt directly, and one with Miguel Sanz who has been discussed thoroughly on this thread. Enjoyed both days, and cost was roughly the same, but Miguel was a fantastic guide and exceptionally knowledgeable. Found we got a lot more out of our day with him, and thought it was a good value for the service provided. Highest recommendation.
- Wineries: Achival Ferrer, Lagarde, Norton and Camelo Patti are not to be missed. Achival Ferrer produces some exceptional wines, and does a fantastic tour with a from-the-barrel tasting. Lagarde and Norton both served an exceptional lunch, with Norton's La Vid restaurant producing some amazing dishes, but Lagarde overall providing a more refined and interesting experience (with significantly better wines - highly suggest taking them up on the offer to upgrade the wine pairings with lunch, pours are generous and the wines exceptional). Carmelo Patti is a character, his enthusiasm contagious, and his wines generally high quality and a very good value.
- Restaurants: Francis Mallman 1884 was a very enjoyable dinner. Fantastic wine list and food, with just OK service. ~$120 for 2 people, excluding service - found this to be on the expensive end for Argentina but overall a very good value to this NYer. Azafran was also very enjoyable with a great outdoor seating area and slightly more refined food.
- Misc: We purchased a lot of wine and olive oil to bring home. Sol y Vino (around the corner from the Hyatt) had shipping boxes to bring wine home as checked baggage, as well as a great selection of wine at competitive prices (in line with those at the wineries). Fingers crossed that all is intact as Lan / Tam misplaced our baggage....I'll avoid commenting on the experience transiting via GRU on New Year's day as the only words appropriate to describe that experience are not suitable for a public forum.
Hope this is a helpful reference for anyone planning a visit to Mendoza!
Jan 3, 2016, 8:20 am
#558
FlyerTalk Evangelist
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Over the Bay Bridge, CA
Programs: Jumbo mas
Posts: 38,644
In late December, I spent 3 nights in Mendoza. It was my second trip there (and first in nearly a decade). As it was the first stop on a two week trip, we wanted some down time after arrival and accordingly, only planned one wino day.
I really liked the Sheraton. Wonderful staff, and the platinum upgraded suite, while not luxury, was very nice, and the lounge situation (and breakfast) was quite decent. Good location.
Now, on to wino day. I’m probably not your typical “Mendoza” wine tourist because I have no interest in tours, nor any interest in chasing top WS or WA scores (although I don’t pass them up if they appear in a glass). Accordingly, I contacted Miguel Sanz and explained the sort of day we wanted. He was able to mostly accomplish what we were hoping for, and I would recommend him to anyone in a heartbeat. Some of our stops might not have been my first choices, but we were limited by (1) not wanting tours - some require the tour experience before a tasting, and (2) some places were closed for private events.
First stop - Achaval Ferrer. When I found out we were going, I was disappointed, but this was a “substitution” stop, and now I’ve been. We did not tour, and ended up in a tasting room with a lovely hostess and a group of Brazilian tourists. The hotstess did a nice job per what she has to do, i.e., marketing. We only tasted one of their better line in a “ready for sale” state (i.e., in a bottle). The other two were barrel samples. There was no question that by listening to her speak, they are making wine to get high scores. Nothing wrong with that, if that is your thing. Nevertheless, we had an enjoyable time, I had no desire to buy anything, and my opinion that this is a highly overrated place has only strengthened. Never-nevertheless, I can see how many people like the place and their wines.
Second stop - Pulenta Estate. This is a lovely lovely place. You have to take a small tour to get to your tasting spot, but that was ok, as we can live with one mini-tour, because one can never see enough stainless steel tanks and french oak barrels. Nevertheless, here, you choose your level of tasting, and pay accordingly. (The top one was probably US$10 a person.) Wines were interesting, and delicious, especially the Cab Franc and the asemblaje.
Third stop - Sophenia. Another worthwhile stop. Nice wine, nice atmosphere, nice hostess. My favorite “tasting room” due to its relative informality.
Fourth stop - La Azul. This was the lunch stop, and lunch included a line up of their wines paired with the meal. What a great place. I’ve lived in Northern California long enough, and been to Buenos Aires enough times to know that what I crave when I get home is farm fresh food. And this is what we had at La Azul. Totally informal outdoor dining with just great food. Creative but not fussy. Chef was a chef in NYC. Service was friendly and outstanding.
Fifth stop - didn’t ever happen. La Azul took too long, which was fine with us, given how much we were enjoying the stop.
If I have any criticism (ok, obviously I do), the way the Mendoza region has set up the “wine experience” mostly isn’t my thing. Friendly as it is, there is a formality involved (i.e., many places require or want you to tour, the tastings are all set in groups, etc.) . Perhaps “structure” is a better word. Nevertheless, we had an excellent day. I’d do similar again at some point in the future. I wouldn’t want two days in a row of this. Having been now twice to Mendoza, almost anyone who thinks of doing wine touring on his/her own is a fool. Between road signage, every place behind a gate, almost every place requiring a set appointment time, and so on, not to mention the cost of a rental car, your self-tour will only lead to disappointment. And if you use Miguel as your guide, and have lunch at La Azul, disappointment will be the last thing on your mind.
I really liked the Sheraton. Wonderful staff, and the platinum upgraded suite, while not luxury, was very nice, and the lounge situation (and breakfast) was quite decent. Good location.
Now, on to wino day. I’m probably not your typical “Mendoza” wine tourist because I have no interest in tours, nor any interest in chasing top WS or WA scores (although I don’t pass them up if they appear in a glass). Accordingly, I contacted Miguel Sanz and explained the sort of day we wanted. He was able to mostly accomplish what we were hoping for, and I would recommend him to anyone in a heartbeat. Some of our stops might not have been my first choices, but we were limited by (1) not wanting tours - some require the tour experience before a tasting, and (2) some places were closed for private events.
First stop - Achaval Ferrer. When I found out we were going, I was disappointed, but this was a “substitution” stop, and now I’ve been. We did not tour, and ended up in a tasting room with a lovely hostess and a group of Brazilian tourists. The hotstess did a nice job per what she has to do, i.e., marketing. We only tasted one of their better line in a “ready for sale” state (i.e., in a bottle). The other two were barrel samples. There was no question that by listening to her speak, they are making wine to get high scores. Nothing wrong with that, if that is your thing. Nevertheless, we had an enjoyable time, I had no desire to buy anything, and my opinion that this is a highly overrated place has only strengthened. Never-nevertheless, I can see how many people like the place and their wines.
Second stop - Pulenta Estate. This is a lovely lovely place. You have to take a small tour to get to your tasting spot, but that was ok, as we can live with one mini-tour, because one can never see enough stainless steel tanks and french oak barrels. Nevertheless, here, you choose your level of tasting, and pay accordingly. (The top one was probably US$10 a person.) Wines were interesting, and delicious, especially the Cab Franc and the asemblaje.
Third stop - Sophenia. Another worthwhile stop. Nice wine, nice atmosphere, nice hostess. My favorite “tasting room” due to its relative informality.
Fourth stop - La Azul. This was the lunch stop, and lunch included a line up of their wines paired with the meal. What a great place. I’ve lived in Northern California long enough, and been to Buenos Aires enough times to know that what I crave when I get home is farm fresh food. And this is what we had at La Azul. Totally informal outdoor dining with just great food. Creative but not fussy. Chef was a chef in NYC. Service was friendly and outstanding.
Fifth stop - didn’t ever happen. La Azul took too long, which was fine with us, given how much we were enjoying the stop.
If I have any criticism (ok, obviously I do), the way the Mendoza region has set up the “wine experience” mostly isn’t my thing. Friendly as it is, there is a formality involved (i.e., many places require or want you to tour, the tastings are all set in groups, etc.) . Perhaps “structure” is a better word. Nevertheless, we had an excellent day. I’d do similar again at some point in the future. I wouldn’t want two days in a row of this. Having been now twice to Mendoza, almost anyone who thinks of doing wine touring on his/her own is a fool. Between road signage, every place behind a gate, almost every place requiring a set appointment time, and so on, not to mention the cost of a rental car, your self-tour will only lead to disappointment. And if you use Miguel as your guide, and have lunch at La Azul, disappointment will be the last thing on your mind.
Feb 8, 2016, 10:43 pm
#560
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Birmingham, AL (weekdays) and Atlanta, GA (weekends)
Programs: DL Platinum Medallion
Posts: 590
Considering a trip later this year where my return to the USA might be MDZ-GRU-ATL or MDZ-EZE-ATL.
In each case, would my bags already be checked straight through to ATL or would I have to collect/recheck them at the connecting airport? Thanks all.
In each case, would my bags already be checked straight through to ATL or would I have to collect/recheck them at the connecting airport? Thanks all.
Mar 1, 2016, 11:07 am
#561
Moderator, Hertz; FlyerTalk Evangelist
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: KRK
Programs: UA 1MM, BA GGL, Hyatt Glob, Hilton Diamond and others
Posts: 12,690
Any drivers can one recommend? Looking thru this thread, it seems Miguel Sanz seems to be a great driver, but not sure the prices. I got a list of vineyards that I want to visit, so a driver is mainly what we need.
What's an average price for a day driver (who speaks some English)?
What's an average price for a day driver (who speaks some English)?
Mar 1, 2016, 11:26 am
#562
FlyerTalk Evangelist
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Over the Bay Bridge, CA
Programs: Jumbo mas
Posts: 38,644
Any drivers can one recommend? Looking thru this thread, it seems Miguel Sanz seems to be a great driver, but not sure the prices. I got a list of vineyards that I want to visit, so a driver is mainly what we need.
What's an average price for a day driver (who speaks some English)?
What's an average price for a day driver (who speaks some English)?
It isn't so simple as having a list and needing a driver. Your driver will have to arrange for set appointment times, be able to coordinate when (and if) you can get in, distances between locations, and so on. You will have a fee (in the $10 range) at (almost) every place you stop. I would not be surprised if some drivers (and accordingly, their clients) aren't able to get past some of the gates.
Note that distances between wineries on your list may be a lot greater than you think.
As someone who many years ago, just got a hotel-arranged last minute day driver and who used just Miguel in December, I would suggest that if Mendoza is going to be a once or twice in a lifetime sort of place for you, an extra US$50 or $75 for the entire day is going to turn an ok day into a fantastic one.
Mar 5, 2016, 7:17 am
#564
Moderator, Argentina and FlyerTalk Evangelist
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: MIA / EZE
Programs: Lord of Malbec & all Wines Argentine. AA EXP / Marriott Lifetime Silver / Hertz Presidents Circle
Posts: 35,681
Im afraid I could not disagree more. Renting a car means you have to pretty much not taste/drink wines, assuming you want to play it safe & legal. Mendoza is not known for its efficient signage, and most GPS maps cannot keep updated with all the ongoing construction of new roads, etc.
To top things up, renting cars in Argentina is more expensive than in most locations, and if visitors don't speak fluent Spanish things are further complicated.
It is impossible to rent and drive.... certainly not. But the disadvantages clearly outweigh the advantages, in my opinion.
Daniel-- if you have the details of what and where you Parents rented a car and what you mean by "cheap price" please post the information here. For most visitors that want a relatively new vehicle with proper insurance, the prices are not inexpensive. Thanks.
To top things up, renting cars in Argentina is more expensive than in most locations, and if visitors don't speak fluent Spanish things are further complicated.
It is impossible to rent and drive.... certainly not. But the disadvantages clearly outweigh the advantages, in my opinion.
Daniel-- if you have the details of what and where you Parents rented a car and what you mean by "cheap price" please post the information here. For most visitors that want a relatively new vehicle with proper insurance, the prices are not inexpensive. Thanks.
Mar 5, 2016, 9:47 am
#565
Moderator, Hertz; FlyerTalk Evangelist
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: KRK
Programs: UA 1MM, BA GGL, Hyatt Glob, Hilton Diamond and others
Posts: 12,690
My dear Jason,
It isn't so simple as having a list and needing a driver. Your driver will have to arrange for set appointment times, be able to coordinate when (and if) you can get in, distances between locations, and so on. You will have a fee (in the $10 range) at (almost) every place you stop. I would not be surprised if some drivers (and accordingly, their clients) aren't able to get past some of the gates.
Note that distances between wineries on your list may be a lot greater than you think.
As someone who many years ago, just got a hotel-arranged last minute day driver and who used just Miguel in December, I would suggest that if Mendoza is going to be a once or twice in a lifetime sort of place for you, an extra US$50 or $75 for the entire day is going to turn an ok day into a fantastic one.
It isn't so simple as having a list and needing a driver. Your driver will have to arrange for set appointment times, be able to coordinate when (and if) you can get in, distances between locations, and so on. You will have a fee (in the $10 range) at (almost) every place you stop. I would not be surprised if some drivers (and accordingly, their clients) aren't able to get past some of the gates.
Note that distances between wineries on your list may be a lot greater than you think.
As someone who many years ago, just got a hotel-arranged last minute day driver and who used just Miguel in December, I would suggest that if Mendoza is going to be a once or twice in a lifetime sort of place for you, an extra US$50 or $75 for the entire day is going to turn an ok day into a fantastic one.
Apr 21, 2016, 7:49 am
#566
Moderator, Argentina and FlyerTalk Evangelist
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: MIA / EZE
Programs: Lord of Malbec & all Wines Argentine. AA EXP / Marriott Lifetime Silver / Hertz Presidents Circle
Posts: 35,681
Excelent Lodging option in Valle de Uco (Tupungato)
Just got back from a few days in Mendoza taking around a small group of clients. Regarding lodging, I had an amazing experience at Tupugato Divino. This is a small Mountain Style Lodge with 4 individual cabins, excellent service at very well appointed facilities with all the amenities. Excellent location to visit some of the Gems of the Uco Valley, including La Azul, Ricominciare, and Rutini's new flagship mega-winery - among others.
While not super luxurious, Tupungato Divino is an excellent choice because of service, location and outstanding value for money. Owners Pablo and Sergio are personally on-premises to take care of you, and this makes all the difference. I will post more details later, but for anybody going to Mendoza that needs a great location to stay up near the Mountains (in the Valle de Uco), this place gets a special place in my A List of where to sleep.
I give them a :-: :-: :-: :-: :-: rating !!!
^
http://tupungatodivino.com.ar/
Full review to come later..... (stay tuned).
While not super luxurious, Tupungato Divino is an excellent choice because of service, location and outstanding value for money. Owners Pablo and Sergio are personally on-premises to take care of you, and this makes all the difference. I will post more details later, but for anybody going to Mendoza that needs a great location to stay up near the Mountains (in the Valle de Uco), this place gets a special place in my A List of where to sleep.
I give them a :-: :-: :-: :-: :-: rating !!!
^http://tupungatodivino.com.ar/
Full review to come later..... (stay tuned).
Last edited by Gaucho100K; Apr 21, 2016 at 8:16 am
Apr 21, 2016, 7:55 am
#567
Moderator, Hertz; FlyerTalk Evangelist
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: KRK
Programs: UA 1MM, BA GGL, Hyatt Glob, Hilton Diamond and others
Posts: 12,690
My dear Jason,
It isn't so simple as having a list and needing a driver. Your driver will have to arrange for set appointment times, be able to coordinate when (and if) you can get in, distances between locations, and so on. You will have a fee (in the $10 range) at (almost) every place you stop. I would not be surprised if some drivers (and accordingly, their clients) aren't able to get past some of the gates.
Note that distances between wineries on your list may be a lot greater than you think.
As someone who many years ago, just got a hotel-arranged last minute day driver and who used just Miguel in December, I would suggest that if Mendoza is going to be a once or twice in a lifetime sort of place for you, an extra US$50 or $75 for the entire day is going to turn an ok day into a fantastic one.
It isn't so simple as having a list and needing a driver. Your driver will have to arrange for set appointment times, be able to coordinate when (and if) you can get in, distances between locations, and so on. You will have a fee (in the $10 range) at (almost) every place you stop. I would not be surprised if some drivers (and accordingly, their clients) aren't able to get past some of the gates.
Note that distances between wineries on your list may be a lot greater than you think.
As someone who many years ago, just got a hotel-arranged last minute day driver and who used just Miguel in December, I would suggest that if Mendoza is going to be a once or twice in a lifetime sort of place for you, an extra US$50 or $75 for the entire day is going to turn an ok day into a fantastic one.
Miguel was fantastic. We had an amazing time in Mendoza. We did 2 days with him and got to taste the not as touristy wineyards, which was a nice treat.
May 28, 2016, 10:44 am
#568
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: LAX
Programs: UA Plat MM, CM Plat, Amex Plat, Hertz CP, Hyatt Globalist, SPG Gold, Vons Club
Posts: 6,852
Gabriel Fidel has a new book on Wine Tourism..
Gabriel Fidel (Head of ProMendoza and involvement in the Mercosur) has recently written a new book on Wine Tourism in Argentina:
http://www.mdzol.com/nota/674441-el-...-de-la-ediunc/
Would like to know if anyone has been to any of the recent celebrations regarding the release of the book? Sounds wonderful..
Just penned an email to my contact at ProMendoza to see how I could obtain a copy signed by the Author
http://www.mdzol.com/nota/674441-el-...-de-la-ediunc/
Would like to know if anyone has been to any of the recent celebrations regarding the release of the book? Sounds wonderful..
Just penned an email to my contact at ProMendoza to see how I could obtain a copy signed by the Author
May 28, 2016, 8:48 pm
#569
Moderator, Argentina and FlyerTalk Evangelist
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: MIA / EZE
Programs: Lord of Malbec & all Wines Argentine. AA EXP / Marriott Lifetime Silver / Hertz Presidents Circle
Posts: 35,681
Thanks for coming back and reporting your experience. I always have only good things to say about Miguel and his service, but its very valuable to others to see that there are plenty of others that have had a comparable experience.
^ ^ ^
^ ^ ^
May 28, 2016, 8:52 pm
#570
Moderator, Argentina and FlyerTalk Evangelist
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: MIA / EZE
Programs: Lord of Malbec & all Wines Argentine. AA EXP / Marriott Lifetime Silver / Hertz Presidents Circle
Posts: 35,681
I had an invitation to attend an event related to this, not sure if it was the "formal" presentation or a related event for those ITB. Sadly, a scheduling conflict did not permit me to attend.
One of the Bodegas I work with has promised to send me a copy. Ive heard good things about G. Fidel from various long time industry folks so Im looking forward to reading it.
One of the Bodegas I work with has promised to send me a copy. Ive heard good things about G. Fidel from various long time industry folks so Im looking forward to reading it.
Gabriel Fidel (Head of ProMendoza and involvement in the Mercosur) has recently written a new book on Wine Tourism in Argentina:
http://www.mdzol.com/nota/674441-el-...-de-la-ediunc/
Would like to know if anyone has been to any of the recent celebrations regarding the release of the book? Sounds wonderful..
Just penned an email to my contact at ProMendoza to see how I could obtain a copy signed by the Author
http://www.mdzol.com/nota/674441-el-...-de-la-ediunc/
Would like to know if anyone has been to any of the recent celebrations regarding the release of the book? Sounds wonderful..
Just penned an email to my contact at ProMendoza to see how I could obtain a copy signed by the Author