From Uzbekistan With Plov(e) - To Central Asia On TK (Y/J) and SU (Y)
Mar 22, 2019, 6:03 pm
#46
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Part 10: Samarkand by Bukhara by train
Train 762 'Afrosiyob' – price 30 EUR for 'VIP' class
STD 9:48am - STA 11:19am (travel time 1h31m)
The day started with a lovely breakfast at my guest house. It is served on a long communal table laden with organic local produce, which makes socialising with fellow travellers easy, although none were awake this early in the morning.
It was a short taxi ride to Samarkand's station, which just looked like every other station in the country. As I already took my tickets in Tashkent it was a simple check of tickets and bags and I was in the station waiting room. This time, I didn't forget to stamp my ticket having learned this lesson the hard way on my previous journey.
Soon my train arrived at the station, having departed earlier in the day from Tashkent. The train is called the 'Afrosiyob' and is the Uzbek equivalent of a high speed train. Railway fans will easily spot that it is in fact a Spanish-fabricated Talgo high speed train adapted to the Uzbek rail network. These trains are quite popular here, as also the Kazakhs use train sets like these for some of their Astana-Almaty runs.
Even though the cheapest economy tickets are just a few euros (and should be perfectly acceptable given it's just a journey of one-and-a-half hour) I decided to 'splurge' on a VIP class ticket for around 30 EUR just for the fun of it. Seats here are aligned 1+2, while in economy (2nd) and business (1st) class the seats are all aligned 2+2. When you book trains online you can choose your seat.
Again copious amounts of free tea is provided on the train by the friendly hostesses.
As the railway line between Samarkand and Bukhara runs through dry, near desert-like scenery and the line is straight with about no curves whatsoever, it can speed up to about 230kph (143mph). The ride was perfectly smooth and not dissimilar to a ride on a high speed train in France, Germany or Spain.
As for the scenery, it was quite boring – although I still think that riding a train gives you a better view of the geography and conditions of a country than taking a flight.
As the train was getting nearer to Bukhara, the landscape got even dryer and made way for proper desert scenery.
Arrival in Bukhara – built on an oasis spot in the desert – was on time. Even though the modern station again looked like every other railway building in the country, it this time had a band playing on our arrival and boys and girls in traditional costumes. No idea for whom it was – but it seemed like there were some honoured guest or official delegation or official event going on.
Next up: the silk road oasis town of Bukhara
Train 762 'Afrosiyob' – price 30 EUR for 'VIP' class
STD 9:48am - STA 11:19am (travel time 1h31m)
The day started with a lovely breakfast at my guest house. It is served on a long communal table laden with organic local produce, which makes socialising with fellow travellers easy, although none were awake this early in the morning.
It was a short taxi ride to Samarkand's station, which just looked like every other station in the country. As I already took my tickets in Tashkent it was a simple check of tickets and bags and I was in the station waiting room. This time, I didn't forget to stamp my ticket having learned this lesson the hard way on my previous journey.
Soon my train arrived at the station, having departed earlier in the day from Tashkent. The train is called the 'Afrosiyob' and is the Uzbek equivalent of a high speed train. Railway fans will easily spot that it is in fact a Spanish-fabricated Talgo high speed train adapted to the Uzbek rail network. These trains are quite popular here, as also the Kazakhs use train sets like these for some of their Astana-Almaty runs.
Even though the cheapest economy tickets are just a few euros (and should be perfectly acceptable given it's just a journey of one-and-a-half hour) I decided to 'splurge' on a VIP class ticket for around 30 EUR just for the fun of it. Seats here are aligned 1+2, while in economy (2nd) and business (1st) class the seats are all aligned 2+2. When you book trains online you can choose your seat.
Again copious amounts of free tea is provided on the train by the friendly hostesses.
As the railway line between Samarkand and Bukhara runs through dry, near desert-like scenery and the line is straight with about no curves whatsoever, it can speed up to about 230kph (143mph). The ride was perfectly smooth and not dissimilar to a ride on a high speed train in France, Germany or Spain.
As for the scenery, it was quite boring – although I still think that riding a train gives you a better view of the geography and conditions of a country than taking a flight.
As the train was getting nearer to Bukhara, the landscape got even dryer and made way for proper desert scenery.
Arrival in Bukhara – built on an oasis spot in the desert – was on time. Even though the modern station again looked like every other railway building in the country, it this time had a band playing on our arrival and boys and girls in traditional costumes. No idea for whom it was – but it seemed like there were some honoured guest or official delegation or official event going on.
Next up: the silk road oasis town of Bukhara
Mar 23, 2019, 5:45 pm
#47
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Part 11: Bukhara, Uzbekistan
Hotel: Golden Bukhara boutique hotel, USD 45/night incl. breakfast
My accommodation, a small boutique hotel, was located just to the south of Bukhara's historical centre. It is a 20-25 minute taxi drive from the train station into town as the railway station isn't technically located in Bukhara itself, but in Kogon – the old Russian cantonment. This is because when the railways were constructed about a century or so ago the then Emir of Bukhara thought it was a devilish tool and banned it from his city – something which he apparently came to regret later.
The hotel was very nice, with good-looking rooms, a well-equipped bathroom and an overall friendly service.
The only slight drawback to some might be the location, as it's a 15-20 minute walk to the heart of the city centre. I personally did not mind it as the walk to it goes through a lovely old neighbourhood full of abandoned, derelict madrassa's and other once grand buildings. Even if you are staying elsewhere in the city it is worth wandering a bit southwards from the city centre.
The first thing you can note when comparing Bukhara to Samarkand is how different the city feels. While some of the architecture of the main sights such as the mosques and madrassas of the city might be somewhat similar looking, Samarkand has a more worldly feel, while Bukhara feels more inward-looking. Given the more inhospitable surroundings of the desert, that doesn't come as a surprise. You see this back in the city. While Samarkand has more colour, is more modern and more spread out, Bukhara is very much centralised, with narrow, muddy streets and buildings all in the same brown colours. It really feels like you are stepping a century or two back in time compared to Samarkand and it is this general atmosphere what makes the city so special as you get a much better feel of the ancient Silk Road.
A small canal runs through the heart of the city centre of Bukhara. In this area are a number of bazaars and souvenir shops.
The exact centre of the city is the Lyabi-Hauz, a square built in the year 1620 around a pool. The city used to be known for its many pools and canals, but as the water wasn't changed often it also resulted in diseases such as the plague spreading fast around. When the Bolsheviks invaded they closed down many of the pools. Around the Lyabi-Hauz are a number of madrassas. While beautiful, they are less impressive than their counterparts in Samarkand.
As I was getting hungry (and thirsty) it being lunchtime, I decided to sit at the only restaurant with open air seating right next to the Lyabi-Hauz pool as you simply can't beat the view. As the food and service also turned out to be excellent (and they had cheap draught beer) it became my to-go place for food in the next days.
To start, I had a lovely Uzbek soup which was full of potatoes, meat and other stuff.
As a main, I had laghman, a dish of pulled noodles with meat and veggies. It is a Central Asian staple which probably came out of China (as native Turkic words apparently don't begin with the letter 'L' so it must be a loanword). The dish is however a bit of a mystery to me as for example here it was served more like a pasta and had an egg on top of it, but at other places the dish was served as a sort of soup in a bowl. I don't know if this has to do with regional varieties? Anyhow – it was for sure very tasty. And as with all meals, it was very inexpensive, with both dishes and two beers being around 6-7 USD.
I had some gorgeous company as well during the dinner.
Next up I wandered through the streets to the north-east of Lyabi-Hauz towards the Char Minar, which means 'four minarets' in Tajik (both Samarkand and Bukhara used to be key Tajik cultural centres, and still Tajik is the most commonly spoken language in the city. Tajik for those who do not know it is a Persian language, while Uzbek is a Turkic language so they are quite different!). The Char Minar itself is the old gatehouse of an old madrassa that unfortunately has disappeared.
After the Char Minar I headed back to the centre again, where the first major sight was the Ulughbek madrassa.
Directly opposite the building is the Abdul Aziz Khan madrassa built in 1652. Khan was a Astrakhanid leader who unlike the Sunni Muslims who would rule the city for most of its history was a Shiite. The building is therefore one of the few in which living beings are depicted on the frescoes – something which is forbidden in Sunni Islam.
A stone-throw away from both madrassas is the Taqi Zargoron covered bazaar, which like the Lyabi-Hauz is also a focal point of the city to which you keep returning when exploring around town because its on a major crossroads of some pedestrian streets.
One of Bukhara's most beautiful buildings is the Mir-i-Arab madrassa from the 16th Century named after a Yemeni sheikh who had a strong influence over the then-ruler of Bukhara Ubaidullah Khan. Both of them are buried in the complex. Unfortunately, the complex is off-limits for tourists, although you can peak through the gate.
Fortunately, you can enter what is perhaps the most beautiful sight of Bukhara: Kalon Mosque and minaret. The mosque was rebuilt in the 16th Century was rebuilt after it was razed to the ground by no-one else than Genghis Khan. The great Mongol conqueror however ordered the 12th Century minaret to be spared as he was so impressed by it. The minaret is still the original as in all those centuries it only needed some minor cosmetic fixes. When the Soviets came to town it was closed again and used as a warehouse. Only at Uzbek independence did the mosque reopen. The front entrance is surprisingly modest compared to the beautiful surroundings once inside at the main courtyard.
Once you are standing at the courtyard you face an impressive dome-topped building to the frond of you and a building with hundreds of white arches to your left (I presume a covered praying area).
The mosque is amazingly beautiful and very photogenic so it pays off to wander around a bit to see every building and angle.
As the sun was slowly setting, I wandered a bit more around the picturesque streets around the Kalon Mosque.
I ended a fantastic first day in Bukhara with another nice dinner (which I forgot to photograph!) and some well-deserved nargilah and tea after a long day of walking to fully stay in oriental spheres.
Next up: day two in Bukhara, including a visit to the Ark fortress
Hotel: Golden Bukhara boutique hotel, USD 45/night incl. breakfast
My accommodation, a small boutique hotel, was located just to the south of Bukhara's historical centre. It is a 20-25 minute taxi drive from the train station into town as the railway station isn't technically located in Bukhara itself, but in Kogon – the old Russian cantonment. This is because when the railways were constructed about a century or so ago the then Emir of Bukhara thought it was a devilish tool and banned it from his city – something which he apparently came to regret later.
The hotel was very nice, with good-looking rooms, a well-equipped bathroom and an overall friendly service.
The only slight drawback to some might be the location, as it's a 15-20 minute walk to the heart of the city centre. I personally did not mind it as the walk to it goes through a lovely old neighbourhood full of abandoned, derelict madrassa's and other once grand buildings. Even if you are staying elsewhere in the city it is worth wandering a bit southwards from the city centre.
The first thing you can note when comparing Bukhara to Samarkand is how different the city feels. While some of the architecture of the main sights such as the mosques and madrassas of the city might be somewhat similar looking, Samarkand has a more worldly feel, while Bukhara feels more inward-looking. Given the more inhospitable surroundings of the desert, that doesn't come as a surprise. You see this back in the city. While Samarkand has more colour, is more modern and more spread out, Bukhara is very much centralised, with narrow, muddy streets and buildings all in the same brown colours. It really feels like you are stepping a century or two back in time compared to Samarkand and it is this general atmosphere what makes the city so special as you get a much better feel of the ancient Silk Road.
A small canal runs through the heart of the city centre of Bukhara. In this area are a number of bazaars and souvenir shops.
The exact centre of the city is the Lyabi-Hauz, a square built in the year 1620 around a pool. The city used to be known for its many pools and canals, but as the water wasn't changed often it also resulted in diseases such as the plague spreading fast around. When the Bolsheviks invaded they closed down many of the pools. Around the Lyabi-Hauz are a number of madrassas. While beautiful, they are less impressive than their counterparts in Samarkand.
As I was getting hungry (and thirsty) it being lunchtime, I decided to sit at the only restaurant with open air seating right next to the Lyabi-Hauz pool as you simply can't beat the view. As the food and service also turned out to be excellent (and they had cheap draught beer) it became my to-go place for food in the next days.
To start, I had a lovely Uzbek soup which was full of potatoes, meat and other stuff.
As a main, I had laghman, a dish of pulled noodles with meat and veggies. It is a Central Asian staple which probably came out of China (as native Turkic words apparently don't begin with the letter 'L' so it must be a loanword). The dish is however a bit of a mystery to me as for example here it was served more like a pasta and had an egg on top of it, but at other places the dish was served as a sort of soup in a bowl. I don't know if this has to do with regional varieties? Anyhow – it was for sure very tasty. And as with all meals, it was very inexpensive, with both dishes and two beers being around 6-7 USD.
I had some gorgeous company as well during the dinner.
Next up I wandered through the streets to the north-east of Lyabi-Hauz towards the Char Minar, which means 'four minarets' in Tajik (both Samarkand and Bukhara used to be key Tajik cultural centres, and still Tajik is the most commonly spoken language in the city. Tajik for those who do not know it is a Persian language, while Uzbek is a Turkic language so they are quite different!). The Char Minar itself is the old gatehouse of an old madrassa that unfortunately has disappeared.
After the Char Minar I headed back to the centre again, where the first major sight was the Ulughbek madrassa.
Directly opposite the building is the Abdul Aziz Khan madrassa built in 1652. Khan was a Astrakhanid leader who unlike the Sunni Muslims who would rule the city for most of its history was a Shiite. The building is therefore one of the few in which living beings are depicted on the frescoes – something which is forbidden in Sunni Islam.
A stone-throw away from both madrassas is the Taqi Zargoron covered bazaar, which like the Lyabi-Hauz is also a focal point of the city to which you keep returning when exploring around town because its on a major crossroads of some pedestrian streets.
One of Bukhara's most beautiful buildings is the Mir-i-Arab madrassa from the 16th Century named after a Yemeni sheikh who had a strong influence over the then-ruler of Bukhara Ubaidullah Khan. Both of them are buried in the complex. Unfortunately, the complex is off-limits for tourists, although you can peak through the gate.
Fortunately, you can enter what is perhaps the most beautiful sight of Bukhara: Kalon Mosque and minaret. The mosque was rebuilt in the 16th Century was rebuilt after it was razed to the ground by no-one else than Genghis Khan. The great Mongol conqueror however ordered the 12th Century minaret to be spared as he was so impressed by it. The minaret is still the original as in all those centuries it only needed some minor cosmetic fixes. When the Soviets came to town it was closed again and used as a warehouse. Only at Uzbek independence did the mosque reopen. The front entrance is surprisingly modest compared to the beautiful surroundings once inside at the main courtyard.
Once you are standing at the courtyard you face an impressive dome-topped building to the frond of you and a building with hundreds of white arches to your left (I presume a covered praying area).
The mosque is amazingly beautiful and very photogenic so it pays off to wander around a bit to see every building and angle.
As the sun was slowly setting, I wandered a bit more around the picturesque streets around the Kalon Mosque.
I ended a fantastic first day in Bukhara with another nice dinner (which I forgot to photograph!) and some well-deserved nargilah and tea after a long day of walking to fully stay in oriental spheres.
Next up: day two in Bukhara, including a visit to the Ark fortress
Mar 23, 2019, 8:22 pm
#48
Join Date: Oct 2007
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Posts: 3,104
Great report!
Chinese lamian 拉面 are an export classic to other cuisines (e.g. Ramen) and I guess that's also the case here . In China, they come in a soup or "pasta sauce style", wok-fried.
Chinese lamian 拉面 are an export classic to other cuisines (e.g. Ramen) and I guess that's also the case here . In China, they come in a soup or "pasta sauce style", wok-fried.
Mar 24, 2019, 12:51 pm
#50
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I fully agree with you here, Fredrik74. That said, I did like plov as well although I wish the Uzbeks would put more meat in it as most often it's a whole lotta rice with only a tiny bit of meat! I liked the manti as well.
Mar 24, 2019, 1:43 pm
#51
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Part 12: A second day in Bukhara
The morning began with breakfast at the Golden Bukhara boutique hotel, which was good and reminded me about my hotel in Samarkand as there was plenty of fresh produce. No buffet, but instead the staff would put a few dozen things on your table, including eggs and pancakes.
The main sight I would visit today was the Ark, the large fortress in the city where in the past the Emir of Bukhara held court. It was a leisurely 40-50 minute walk to the Ark which took me along many of the sights I visited the day before.
I just love how the old Soviet cars blend in with the buildings.
With its imposing walls, the ark towers above the rest of the old town of Bukhara and indeed feels like it was the place of power in the past.
The royal fortress was functioning from about the 5th Century all the way up to 1920 when the Red Army bombed it. It used to be a sort of town within a town, as the royal courts of the Emir of Bukhara were housed inside, including of course plenty of servants and soldiers.
Even though the Ark has been nicely restored there is not too much to see inside as it feels a bit empty and lifeless, although some of the old artefacts on show such as centuries old Qurans are beautiful.
There is quite a bit of intriguing British-Russian history in this part of Central Asia. In the 19th Century, British spies and diplomats tried to outmatch the Russian Empire in a secret battle for influence and control over Central Asia called 'the Great Game'.
When British Colonel Charles Stoddart visited Bukhara, he was tossed in a rodent-filled jail after the local Emir was displeased he only brought a letter from the Indian Governor-General from where most of the missions were masterminded, and not one from Queen Victoria, whom he considered as a royal equal.
When Captain Arthur Conolly arrived to ask for Stoddart's release, the Emir also threw Conolly in jail thinking the British were secretly plotting with a rival Khanate. Both men were executed in 1842 in front of the citadel.
Outraged British relatives of both men sent a priest named Joseph Wolff to Bukhara to verify the news. He was in the end lucky to escape the same faith as the Emir thought he was a joke in his clerical robes and could not stop laughing. Back in the days, these places were definitely not the friendliest ones in the world to visit!
Opposite the ark is the Bolo-Haus Mosque located next to a pool. It was the Emir's official place of worship and is quite a beautiful building with the wooden poles and frescoes.
A bit out of the city centre towards the west are two other old madrassas. One of them is the Modari Khan madrassa.
Directly opposite you can find the Abdullah Khan madrassa. While all perfectly beautiful in their own right, they are definitely less impressive when compared to those in Samarkand.
Nearby is a large park, which I thought would be perfect for a relaxed stroll on this clouded but still warm enough autumn day.
The main sight in the park is the Ismail Samani mausoleum from the 10th Century. It is the last resting place of a powerful emir of the Samanid dynasty, and one of the last Persian rulers of this part of Central Asia before the Turkic peoples took over.
The park also has some fun fair rides, which might be nice if you are travelling with children. As an adult child, I couldn't resist a ride on the Ferris Wheel in the hope of some nice views over Bukhara.
The ride was very rickety but good fun.
From the park I headed back to my favourite dining spot along the Lyabi-Hauz pool.
For dinner I ordered some shashlyk, which was mouthwatering succulent. Highly recommended if you are a carnivore. Did I say I just love the autumn view as well?
Again I had some cute company during my dinner.
Overall, I really liked my stay in Bukhara. While not as pretty and mind-blowing as Samarkand, there are some beautiful sights to see in town. Best of all is how uniform everything feels. With all the pedestrian alleyways, dirt streets and bit of decay it really feels like you are stepping back in time. Even though the sighs of Samarkand are far prettier, this aspect makes the overall atmosphere of Bukhara for sure more unique. It's the perfect place to just linger a bit around or walk off randomly and get lost.
Next up: By overnight train to the walled desert outpost of Khiva
The morning began with breakfast at the Golden Bukhara boutique hotel, which was good and reminded me about my hotel in Samarkand as there was plenty of fresh produce. No buffet, but instead the staff would put a few dozen things on your table, including eggs and pancakes.
The main sight I would visit today was the Ark, the large fortress in the city where in the past the Emir of Bukhara held court. It was a leisurely 40-50 minute walk to the Ark which took me along many of the sights I visited the day before.
I just love how the old Soviet cars blend in with the buildings.
With its imposing walls, the ark towers above the rest of the old town of Bukhara and indeed feels like it was the place of power in the past.
The royal fortress was functioning from about the 5th Century all the way up to 1920 when the Red Army bombed it. It used to be a sort of town within a town, as the royal courts of the Emir of Bukhara were housed inside, including of course plenty of servants and soldiers.
Even though the Ark has been nicely restored there is not too much to see inside as it feels a bit empty and lifeless, although some of the old artefacts on show such as centuries old Qurans are beautiful.
There is quite a bit of intriguing British-Russian history in this part of Central Asia. In the 19th Century, British spies and diplomats tried to outmatch the Russian Empire in a secret battle for influence and control over Central Asia called 'the Great Game'.
When British Colonel Charles Stoddart visited Bukhara, he was tossed in a rodent-filled jail after the local Emir was displeased he only brought a letter from the Indian Governor-General from where most of the missions were masterminded, and not one from Queen Victoria, whom he considered as a royal equal.
When Captain Arthur Conolly arrived to ask for Stoddart's release, the Emir also threw Conolly in jail thinking the British were secretly plotting with a rival Khanate. Both men were executed in 1842 in front of the citadel.
Outraged British relatives of both men sent a priest named Joseph Wolff to Bukhara to verify the news. He was in the end lucky to escape the same faith as the Emir thought he was a joke in his clerical robes and could not stop laughing. Back in the days, these places were definitely not the friendliest ones in the world to visit!
Opposite the ark is the Bolo-Haus Mosque located next to a pool. It was the Emir's official place of worship and is quite a beautiful building with the wooden poles and frescoes.
A bit out of the city centre towards the west are two other old madrassas. One of them is the Modari Khan madrassa.
Directly opposite you can find the Abdullah Khan madrassa. While all perfectly beautiful in their own right, they are definitely less impressive when compared to those in Samarkand.
Nearby is a large park, which I thought would be perfect for a relaxed stroll on this clouded but still warm enough autumn day.
The main sight in the park is the Ismail Samani mausoleum from the 10th Century. It is the last resting place of a powerful emir of the Samanid dynasty, and one of the last Persian rulers of this part of Central Asia before the Turkic peoples took over.
The park also has some fun fair rides, which might be nice if you are travelling with children. As an adult child, I couldn't resist a ride on the Ferris Wheel in the hope of some nice views over Bukhara.
The ride was very rickety but good fun.
From the park I headed back to my favourite dining spot along the Lyabi-Hauz pool.
For dinner I ordered some shashlyk, which was mouthwatering succulent. Highly recommended if you are a carnivore. Did I say I just love the autumn view as well?
Again I had some cute company during my dinner.
Overall, I really liked my stay in Bukhara. While not as pretty and mind-blowing as Samarkand, there are some beautiful sights to see in town. Best of all is how uniform everything feels. With all the pedestrian alleyways, dirt streets and bit of decay it really feels like you are stepping back in time. Even though the sighs of Samarkand are far prettier, this aspect makes the overall atmosphere of Bukhara for sure more unique. It's the perfect place to just linger a bit around or walk off randomly and get lost.
Next up: By overnight train to the walled desert outpost of Khiva
Mar 24, 2019, 5:34 pm
#52
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Part 13: Bukhara to Urgench (for Khiva)
Train 056ЧА – price 22 EUR for 'Spalny Vagon'
STD 4.07am - STA 11.02am (travel time 6h55m)
My alarm clock went at 2.30am for my next travel which would take me to the westernmost point of my Uzbek journey. Unfortunately, there is only one daily train doing this run and it runs at quite horrible hours. On the plus side, I would have a proper bed on the train which means that at least I can crash out comfortably once I would finally be on the train. After a 20 minute taxi ride I arrived at Bukhara's train station.
I had my ticket booked in 'Spalny Vagon' or 'SV' – which basically corresponds to a 1st class sleeper (in Russia/ex-USSR countries, SV is two-berth 1st class sleeper, Kupe is a four-berth 2nd class couchette, while platzkart corresponds to 3rd class and is an open-plan wagon with bunks. All are lie-flat – but of course you have much more privacy or spalny vagon
if you want a private compartment in Uzbekistan you would need to book both berths in SV, as otherwise you (might) share the compartment with a passenger of the same sex. As I didn't book the entire compartment and a fellow passenger was already asleep when I opened the door (the train originates in Tashkent) I also went straight to sleep without making pictures. As I would travel back to Tashkent with the exact same train in a much longer journey there are however plenty of pictures to come in one of the next chapters for those who are curious about this train! I did however manage to make some snaps of the bleak landscape from the window when I woke up.
Arrival in Urgench was on time. Urgench is a modern city and the main transport hub of the region (it also has an airport with flights on Uzbekistan Airways to Tashkent for those who would rather fly). From the station it is a further 32 kilometres south-west to Khiva, which would be my final destination in Uzbekistan. I had no problems finding a taxi at the station and negotiating a fair price (5 USD) for the ride to Khiva.
The taxi dropped me off at the entrance gate of the walled city of ancient Khiva.
The entire old town of Khiva is fully walled and perfectly conserved. I was absolutely looking forward to explore this historic desert outpost – especially as I finally had clear blue skies. The first object you notice after entering the city gate is the Kalta Minor minaret, which is completely covered in beautiful blue tiles. The fat minaret was built on orders of Mohammed Amin Khan in 1851, although when he died construction stopped. The minaret was thus never finished beyond its base (and one can wonder if it would have been built higher how stable it would have been!).
It was however no sightseeing time yet as I first had to check into my hotel (Arkanchi Hotel, 50 USD/night incl. Breakfast). It is located right in the old city just two minutes beyond the main gate. Staff was again friendly and the room was comfortable and clean. I found breakfast however disappointing and easily the worst of the entire trip. Overall it was a fine choice.
Next up: Exploring the walled desert city of Khiva
Train 056ЧА – price 22 EUR for 'Spalny Vagon'
STD 4.07am - STA 11.02am (travel time 6h55m)
My alarm clock went at 2.30am for my next travel which would take me to the westernmost point of my Uzbek journey. Unfortunately, there is only one daily train doing this run and it runs at quite horrible hours. On the plus side, I would have a proper bed on the train which means that at least I can crash out comfortably once I would finally be on the train. After a 20 minute taxi ride I arrived at Bukhara's train station.
I had my ticket booked in 'Spalny Vagon' or 'SV' – which basically corresponds to a 1st class sleeper (in Russia/ex-USSR countries, SV is two-berth 1st class sleeper, Kupe is a four-berth 2nd class couchette, while platzkart corresponds to 3rd class and is an open-plan wagon with bunks. All are lie-flat – but of course you have much more privacy or spalny vagon
if you want a private compartment in Uzbekistan you would need to book both berths in SV, as otherwise you (might) share the compartment with a passenger of the same sex. As I didn't book the entire compartment and a fellow passenger was already asleep when I opened the door (the train originates in Tashkent) I also went straight to sleep without making pictures. As I would travel back to Tashkent with the exact same train in a much longer journey there are however plenty of pictures to come in one of the next chapters for those who are curious about this train! I did however manage to make some snaps of the bleak landscape from the window when I woke up.Arrival in Urgench was on time. Urgench is a modern city and the main transport hub of the region (it also has an airport with flights on Uzbekistan Airways to Tashkent for those who would rather fly). From the station it is a further 32 kilometres south-west to Khiva, which would be my final destination in Uzbekistan. I had no problems finding a taxi at the station and negotiating a fair price (5 USD) for the ride to Khiva.
The taxi dropped me off at the entrance gate of the walled city of ancient Khiva.
The entire old town of Khiva is fully walled and perfectly conserved. I was absolutely looking forward to explore this historic desert outpost – especially as I finally had clear blue skies. The first object you notice after entering the city gate is the Kalta Minor minaret, which is completely covered in beautiful blue tiles. The fat minaret was built on orders of Mohammed Amin Khan in 1851, although when he died construction stopped. The minaret was thus never finished beyond its base (and one can wonder if it would have been built higher how stable it would have been!).
It was however no sightseeing time yet as I first had to check into my hotel (Arkanchi Hotel, 50 USD/night incl. Breakfast). It is located right in the old city just two minutes beyond the main gate. Staff was again friendly and the room was comfortable and clean. I found breakfast however disappointing and easily the worst of the entire trip. Overall it was a fine choice.
Next up: Exploring the walled desert city of Khiva
Mar 25, 2019, 9:54 am
#53
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The minaret is still the original as in all those centuries it only needed some minor cosmetic fixes. When the Soviets came to town it was closed again and used as a warehouse. Only at Uzbek independence did the mosque reopen.
Did no one assail you with stories of the "cruel emir" of Bukhara, the use of the minaret as an execution site (as in thrown from the top) or the famous "bug pit?"
Mar 26, 2019, 8:38 am
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And yeap, I have heard (and read!) many of such stories of cruelty by the Emirs of Bukhara (as well as those about the Khanate of Khiva, which by all means was perhaps even more ruthless) and his famous bug pit. Remarkable bits of history, while now you can access the town in ease and comfort with a high speed train, back in those days it must have been grueling rides on horseback or camel and always a feeling of danger lurking at every corner, whether it was in the city itself or by nomadic brigands lurking in the desert.
but it's well worth it as it's something I anyway always try to do for my own archives.I can highly recommend visiting this part of the world - especially as now seems to be quite the time to visit with (visa) liberalisation and increasing ease of access/going around, but at the same time it being delightfully off the beaten track. I hope to get back this year in Spring or Autumn (Kazakhstan/Kyrgyzstan) in a trip a bit more focused on the amazing natural beauty the region has as well.
Glad you like it, stmaus. Thanks for taking the time to read it!
Mar 26, 2019, 9:44 am
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The USSR had only opened the central Asian republics to foreign tourism a couple of years earlier, spurred mainly by permitting SAS to land at Tashkent for refueling on its Asia routes; otherwise many Europe - Asia flights had to stop in Alaska for refueling and crew changes, since overflying Soviet airspace was curtailed. My friend and I (part of our group of about 15) spent a night in Tashkent drinking way too much (lousy but cheap) Uzbek champagne with SAS FAs on a layover... but that's another story.
Some other pictures if interested (not trying to hijack your thread - it's quite marvelous, by the way...)
Spice seller, Bukhara market
Roadside repairs, also Bukhara
Back street, Samarkand
Anybody want a melon? Bukhara.
Mar 26, 2019, 3:15 pm
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Yes, they're storks. I visited in 1974. For what it's worth, the two-week guided tour (that's all there were, run by Intourist) from London included airfare, hotels, breakfasts and dinners, and surface transportation for...£250. The itinerary was London - Leningrad - Tashkent - Dushanbe (Tajikistan) - Samarkand - Bukhara - Urgench/Khiva - Tashkent - Moscow - London.
The USSR had only opened the central Asian republics to foreign tourism a couple of years earlier, spurred mainly by permitting SAS to land at Tashkent for refueling on its Asia routes; otherwise many Europe - Asia flights had to stop in Alaska for refueling and crew changes, since overflying Soviet airspace was curtailed. My friend and I (part of our group of about 15) spent a night in Tashkent drinking way too much (lousy but cheap) Uzbek champagne with SAS FAs on a layover... but that's another story.
Some other pictures if interested (not trying to hijack your thread - it's quite marvelous, by the way...)
The USSR had only opened the central Asian republics to foreign tourism a couple of years earlier, spurred mainly by permitting SAS to land at Tashkent for refueling on its Asia routes; otherwise many Europe - Asia flights had to stop in Alaska for refueling and crew changes, since overflying Soviet airspace was curtailed. My friend and I (part of our group of about 15) spent a night in Tashkent drinking way too much (lousy but cheap) Uzbek champagne with SAS FAs on a layover... but that's another story.
Some other pictures if interested (not trying to hijack your thread - it's quite marvelous, by the way...)
Looking at your pictures it was the only thing I found a bit lacking during my travels: the local colourful street life. Apart from Chorsu Bazaar in Tashkent the streets of almost all cities felt quite empty and were almost completely devoid of cobblers, watermelon salesmen, artists or craftsmen. Maybe I had a bit too high expectations on this front, with dear memories in my mind of bustling bazaars in such cities as Aleppo and Lahore I'm lucky to have visited, but unfortunately many Uzbek city streets were rather sterile. I heard from a few locals and tourists alike that the authorities 'cleaned up' quite a few cities (especially Bukhara and Khiva) which at times makes it feels more like walking in an open-air museum. My only (very minor) complaint on what was an otherwise great journey in a great country.
Mar 26, 2019, 4:49 pm
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Part 14: Khiva, Uzbekistan
Khiva indeed feels special and completely different than both Bukhara and Samarkand. This is due to its location in the Kyzylkum Desert. When standing in front of the clay mud walls of the oasis city, once the centre of a feared slave-trading Khanate, you just feel that back in the days this was not the most hospitable of surroundings for foreign travellers. Interestingly, there was a wedding procession going on in front of the gate with some men playing on their karnay, a long trumpet making a very distinct sound. With the oriental music as backdrop I had no problems at all imagining I was indeed stepping back in time.
As mentioned in my previous instalment, the first object you notice after entering the city gate is the Kalta Minor minaret, which is completely covered in beautiful blue tiles. The fat minaret was built on orders of Mohammed Amin Khan in 1851, although when he died construction stopped. The minaret was thus never finished beyond its base. Next to it is the Mohammed Amin Khan Madrassa, which nowadays is used as a hotel.
Just after the entrance gate (West Gate, which is the most important entrance to the walled city) you need to buy a combined ticket if you want to visit any of the sights and museums in Khiva. For around 15 USD you get a card (valid for multiple days) which gets stamped at almost every major sight and museum. There are however a few sights which are not part of the visiting pass and require you to shell out 2 USD or so per visit.
With the card in hand, the first sight on my list was the Kukhana Ark, the fortress and residence of the Khans of Khiva. Military quarters, palace residence, harem, stables, mosque, jail, an audience room for meetings with nobles or mere subjects, all can be found inside.
There are some decent views from the top of the complex – although there are much better sights in town for this purpose.
The Khans of Khiva managed to thank their wealth to the slave trade and high taxes extorted on travellers and traders (fairly easy when you are in the middle of the desert as the only oasis) and even on their own subjects (as they controlled the water and all irrigation – both heavily taxed as well). Especially because of the slave markets the Khanate had a fearsome reputation. I can only imagine the thoughts travellers might had when seeing soldiers with the banner of the Khanate in the far distance – it must have been very similar as seeing the black ISIS banner nowadays.
In what was seen at the time as a giant diplomatic PR coup in the Great Game, a British officer named Richmond Shakespear managed to convince the Khan of Khiva in 1840 to free more than 400 Russian slaves, for which he was later knighted by Queen Victoria. When the Khanate finally fell to the Russians in 1873 the Khan was not more than a vassal of the Tsar and the slave markets were disbanded.
Across a square on one side of the Ark (which was back then used as an execution square) is he Mohammed Rakhim Khan Madrassa which was built in the 19th Century. The square is mostly empty now except for the odd camel waiting for a tourist who wants to make a ride on it.
As the best preserved of the three great Uzbek silk road cities, the main draw of Khiva is however not one of the individual sights in the city, but the atmosphere of the old alleyways and city walls which haven't changed in hundreds of years. My only (very minor) complaint is that at times it however feels a bit too open air museum like, lacking local life (the few shops and stalls which are there in the old town all cater for tourists).
Many of the once notable buildings – such as the Kazy Kalya madrassa below – now house small museums, in this case a museum of applied arts. While worth a quick peek given entrance is free if you bought the visitor pass, most museums aren't terribly interesting
The biggest sight which is not included in the combined ticket is the 148-feet-high Islom-Huja minaret, which costs around 2 USD to access. It's quite a climb to the top on some narrow and steep steps, but it does give some sweeping views over the city and surrounding desert. It's well worth it.
After the climb I decided it was time for a break. There was an appealing looking restaurant nearby where you could dine in an authentic yurt set up on the inner courtyard. I had some laghman (this time served as a soup) and a pot of tea.
The backstreets to the south of the Islom-Huja minaret are my favourite as there are some cool views and most of the local life, such as this working tannery and carpet weaving workshop.
The Islom-Huja minaret towers above all buildings in this part of town. The more south you go, the more local life you will encounter as many of the low-key houses here are inhabited by townsfolk since centuries.
Also the most beautiful sight in town is located in this area. The Pahlavon Mahmud Mausoleum is named after a man who was a poet, philosopher and legendary wrestler in one. Pahlavon Mahmud is considered Khiva's patron saint and it's easily the most-visited place in town by locals. The tomb is from 1326, but was rebuilt in the 19th Century. Also some of the Khans of Khiva are buried here as they requisitioned it in the early 20th Century.
Opposite the mausoleum you can find the impressive Sherghozi Khan Madrassa – which unfortunately is closed for visitors.
I continued walking through the backstreets until I reached the southern gate of the city.
Top tip: you can climb on top of the city walls here by using a sandy slope just to the west (at the inside of the walled town). I had to dodge some cows and chickens however to reach the slope before I could climb up.
You can walk the entirety of the city wall all the way to the West Gate from here. The views over Khiva are beautiful. It is also possible to get up on the wall at the North Gate (using stone steps which are part of the structure as opposed to a sandy slope) but the views there are much less beautiful in my opinion.
After the detour on the city walls I headed back down again towards the centre of Khiva. Another important sight is the rather unusual Juma Mosque, which is famous for its 218 wooden columns supporting the roof. Some of the beautifully decorated wooden columns date from the 10th Century.
The Allakuli Khan Madrassa from 1835 is also well-worth a view.
As well as some other pretty buildings which for the love of God (and some thirty minutes of Googling) I really cannot seem to remember, nor find any clue back how they are actually called. If anybody knows it'd be appreciated! (EDIT: I managed to find the building using the coordinates in the EXIF data, it's the Tash-Khovli Palace)
There aren't too many restaurants in the walled city of Khiva, so I stopped at a random hotel restaurant in town, where the dining room was completely deserted. The food, some manti (dumplings) and shashlyk, was however tasty enough, even though it was one of the least impressive meals I had on the trip. But you can't complain much after walking the entire day and being hungry.
One thing which I can highly recommend is to take a walk through town at night. The walled town will be completely deserted (but still very safe, so don't worry there) – it really makes for an unique walk you will not easily forget.
I absolutely loved Khiva as it is somehow the most unique of the three silk road cities I've visited, even though it is not the most beautiful (that distinction still goes to Samarkand) and at times it felt a bit to much like an open air museum. Even though Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva might all look alike when purely judging by the madrassas and mausoleums, they each have their own distinctive atmosphere and the simple truth is that I would have hated to miss any of them.
Next up: the long train ride back to Tashkent through the desert – and a journey north into Kazakhstan
Khiva indeed feels special and completely different than both Bukhara and Samarkand. This is due to its location in the Kyzylkum Desert. When standing in front of the clay mud walls of the oasis city, once the centre of a feared slave-trading Khanate, you just feel that back in the days this was not the most hospitable of surroundings for foreign travellers. Interestingly, there was a wedding procession going on in front of the gate with some men playing on their karnay, a long trumpet making a very distinct sound. With the oriental music as backdrop I had no problems at all imagining I was indeed stepping back in time.
As mentioned in my previous instalment, the first object you notice after entering the city gate is the Kalta Minor minaret, which is completely covered in beautiful blue tiles. The fat minaret was built on orders of Mohammed Amin Khan in 1851, although when he died construction stopped. The minaret was thus never finished beyond its base. Next to it is the Mohammed Amin Khan Madrassa, which nowadays is used as a hotel.
Just after the entrance gate (West Gate, which is the most important entrance to the walled city) you need to buy a combined ticket if you want to visit any of the sights and museums in Khiva. For around 15 USD you get a card (valid for multiple days) which gets stamped at almost every major sight and museum. There are however a few sights which are not part of the visiting pass and require you to shell out 2 USD or so per visit.
With the card in hand, the first sight on my list was the Kukhana Ark, the fortress and residence of the Khans of Khiva. Military quarters, palace residence, harem, stables, mosque, jail, an audience room for meetings with nobles or mere subjects, all can be found inside.
There are some decent views from the top of the complex – although there are much better sights in town for this purpose.
The Khans of Khiva managed to thank their wealth to the slave trade and high taxes extorted on travellers and traders (fairly easy when you are in the middle of the desert as the only oasis) and even on their own subjects (as they controlled the water and all irrigation – both heavily taxed as well). Especially because of the slave markets the Khanate had a fearsome reputation. I can only imagine the thoughts travellers might had when seeing soldiers with the banner of the Khanate in the far distance – it must have been very similar as seeing the black ISIS banner nowadays.
In what was seen at the time as a giant diplomatic PR coup in the Great Game, a British officer named Richmond Shakespear managed to convince the Khan of Khiva in 1840 to free more than 400 Russian slaves, for which he was later knighted by Queen Victoria. When the Khanate finally fell to the Russians in 1873 the Khan was not more than a vassal of the Tsar and the slave markets were disbanded.
Across a square on one side of the Ark (which was back then used as an execution square) is he Mohammed Rakhim Khan Madrassa which was built in the 19th Century. The square is mostly empty now except for the odd camel waiting for a tourist who wants to make a ride on it.
As the best preserved of the three great Uzbek silk road cities, the main draw of Khiva is however not one of the individual sights in the city, but the atmosphere of the old alleyways and city walls which haven't changed in hundreds of years. My only (very minor) complaint is that at times it however feels a bit too open air museum like, lacking local life (the few shops and stalls which are there in the old town all cater for tourists).
Many of the once notable buildings – such as the Kazy Kalya madrassa below – now house small museums, in this case a museum of applied arts. While worth a quick peek given entrance is free if you bought the visitor pass, most museums aren't terribly interesting
The biggest sight which is not included in the combined ticket is the 148-feet-high Islom-Huja minaret, which costs around 2 USD to access. It's quite a climb to the top on some narrow and steep steps, but it does give some sweeping views over the city and surrounding desert. It's well worth it.
After the climb I decided it was time for a break. There was an appealing looking restaurant nearby where you could dine in an authentic yurt set up on the inner courtyard. I had some laghman (this time served as a soup) and a pot of tea.
The backstreets to the south of the Islom-Huja minaret are my favourite as there are some cool views and most of the local life, such as this working tannery and carpet weaving workshop.
The Islom-Huja minaret towers above all buildings in this part of town. The more south you go, the more local life you will encounter as many of the low-key houses here are inhabited by townsfolk since centuries.
Also the most beautiful sight in town is located in this area. The Pahlavon Mahmud Mausoleum is named after a man who was a poet, philosopher and legendary wrestler in one. Pahlavon Mahmud is considered Khiva's patron saint and it's easily the most-visited place in town by locals. The tomb is from 1326, but was rebuilt in the 19th Century. Also some of the Khans of Khiva are buried here as they requisitioned it in the early 20th Century.
Opposite the mausoleum you can find the impressive Sherghozi Khan Madrassa – which unfortunately is closed for visitors.
I continued walking through the backstreets until I reached the southern gate of the city.
Top tip: you can climb on top of the city walls here by using a sandy slope just to the west (at the inside of the walled town). I had to dodge some cows and chickens however to reach the slope before I could climb up.
You can walk the entirety of the city wall all the way to the West Gate from here. The views over Khiva are beautiful. It is also possible to get up on the wall at the North Gate (using stone steps which are part of the structure as opposed to a sandy slope) but the views there are much less beautiful in my opinion.
After the detour on the city walls I headed back down again towards the centre of Khiva. Another important sight is the rather unusual Juma Mosque, which is famous for its 218 wooden columns supporting the roof. Some of the beautifully decorated wooden columns date from the 10th Century.
The Allakuli Khan Madrassa from 1835 is also well-worth a view.
As well as some other pretty buildings which for the love of God (and some thirty minutes of Googling) I really cannot seem to remember, nor find any clue back how they are actually called. If anybody knows it'd be appreciated! (EDIT: I managed to find the building using the coordinates in the EXIF data, it's the Tash-Khovli Palace)
There aren't too many restaurants in the walled city of Khiva, so I stopped at a random hotel restaurant in town, where the dining room was completely deserted. The food, some manti (dumplings) and shashlyk, was however tasty enough, even though it was one of the least impressive meals I had on the trip. But you can't complain much after walking the entire day and being hungry.
One thing which I can highly recommend is to take a walk through town at night. The walled town will be completely deserted (but still very safe, so don't worry there) – it really makes for an unique walk you will not easily forget.
I absolutely loved Khiva as it is somehow the most unique of the three silk road cities I've visited, even though it is not the most beautiful (that distinction still goes to Samarkand) and at times it felt a bit to much like an open air museum. Even though Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva might all look alike when purely judging by the madrassas and mausoleums, they each have their own distinctive atmosphere and the simple truth is that I would have hated to miss any of them.
Next up: the long train ride back to Tashkent through the desert – and a journey north into Kazakhstan
Last edited by Romanianflyer; Mar 27, 2019 at 9:55 am
Mar 26, 2019, 5:35 pm
#60
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Don't worry about hijacking the thread as it's great to hear about your experience and your pictures are absolutely stunning. That was for sure a great deal for such a trip! You did never encounter any limitations while travelling given it was mostly a Soviet backwater at the time? Ie. was it easier to communicate, restrictions more relaxed than in Moscow or Leningrad, or on the contrary, even more strict?
- The standard of living, which was by no means equivalent to the west, was nevertheless probably the best the local people had ever experienced. It was clear that private agriculture, albeit on a small scale, was still flourishing, the people looked pretty healthy (smoking like chimneys notwithstanding), there were plenty of braziers selling delicious kebabs that people were buying and gobbling, and the chaikhanas and tea houses were busy with old men gossiping and playing chess. Kids were smiling. Now I don't know if that's because of, or in spite of, a semi-socialist economy, but the whole thing was fairly uplifting.
We were taken to a textile factory in Dushanbe to see the happy workers (well, they didn't look too gloomy, anyway) at their sewing machines, and noted that all the signs exhorting higher production were in Russian, not Tajik, and a superficial glance suggested that the managers' offices were all occupied by blonde people. (This was the case throughout Uzbekistan too; they did feel like Russian colonies to some degree.)
But overall, I was not particularly struck that there was oppression going on, but I imagine a devout Muslim would have disagreed. We were free to come and go from our hotels in the evening, and we did. However my Russian was pretty limited and of course I spoke no Uzbek or Tajik, so communications were mainly by sign language and smiles. But I didn't feel any more restricted than I did in Leningrad or Moscow, which wasn't very much in either case. Of course one had "minders" during the group tours, and "key ladies" on the hotel floors, who I assumed were monitoring our coming and going.
Travel infrastructure was pretty miserable outside of Tashkent. We stayed in Urgench because while Khiva was being restored the whole city was emptied by the Soviets so those pesky residents wouldn't get in the way of the hero workers.
The power went out while we were there (it was August, by the way) and when we went to the airport to go back to Tashkent, we got bumped off the Yak-40 by a bunch of local soviet bigwigs, so we had to return to the hotel overnight. The power was still out hence the water was too (electric pumps?) so all there was to drink (no booze, remember) was warm apricot juice. in 40+C heat. Thanks, comrades.The coolest thing (for flying fans) was the seriously cool TU-114 eggbeater (with its counter-rotating props) that took us from Leningrad to Tashkent overnight. The in-flight meal was memorable - a (real) PVC bag containing a hard cooked egg, a piece of
Then they tried to kill us on a hideously underpowered IL-62 on TAS-SVO. Because of density altitude (high elevation, 40C) the pilot decided to do power tests on the engines while we sat on the apron. He turned off the air conditioning in the cabin (to preserve power?) while he did this, and by the time we rolled the inside of the plane was, oh, say, a million degrees. Some old Uzbek gent in the full outfit jumped out of his seat and started howling and running around; he was gang-tackled by the (sturdy) FAs who strapped him into his seat using belt extenders. When we finally took off, the driver used 101% of the paved runway. The Indian man (from Mumbai) next to me said he was afraid of fainting.
Once we were wheels up and clear (just) of the trees, the skipper turned back on the a/c (or maybe opened a window) and the temperature fell right now - so fast that the perspiration in the cabin's air didn't have time to get cleared, so it condensed on anything metal in the cabin and.... rained on us. Nice.