Part 13: Bukhara to Urgench (for Khiva)
Train 056ЧА – price 22 EUR for 'Spalny Vagon'
STD 4.07am - STA 11.02am (travel time 6h55m)
My alarm clock went at 2.30am for my next travel which would take me to the westernmost point of my Uzbek journey. Unfortunately, there is only one daily train doing this run and it runs at quite horrible hours. On the plus side, I would have a proper bed on the train which means that at least I can crash out comfortably once I would finally be on the train. After a 20 minute taxi ride I arrived at Bukhara's train station.
I had my ticket booked in 'Spalny Vagon' or 'SV' – which basically corresponds to a 1st class sleeper (in Russia/ex-USSR countries, SV is two-berth 1st class sleeper, Kupe is a four-berth 2nd class couchette, while platzkart corresponds to 3rd class and is an open-plan wagon with bunks. All are lie-flat – but of course you have much more privacy or spalny vagon
if you want a private compartment in Uzbekistan you would need to book both berths in SV, as otherwise you (might) share the compartment with a passenger of the same sex. As I didn't book the entire compartment and a fellow passenger was already asleep when I opened the door (the train originates in Tashkent) I also went straight to sleep without making pictures. As I would travel back to Tashkent with the exact same train in a much longer journey there are however plenty of pictures to come in one of the next chapters for those who are curious about this train! I did however manage to make some snaps of the bleak landscape from the window when I woke up.
Arrival in Urgench was on time. Urgench is a modern city and the main transport hub of the region (it also has an airport with flights on Uzbekistan Airways to Tashkent for those who would rather fly). From the station it is a further 32 kilometres south-west to Khiva, which would be my final destination in Uzbekistan. I had no problems finding a taxi at the station and negotiating a fair price (5 USD) for the ride to Khiva.
The taxi dropped me off at the entrance gate of the walled city of ancient Khiva.
The entire old town of Khiva is fully walled and perfectly conserved. I was absolutely looking forward to explore this historic desert outpost – especially as I finally had clear blue skies. The first object you notice after entering the city gate is the Kalta Minor minaret, which is completely covered in beautiful blue tiles. The fat minaret was built on orders of Mohammed Amin Khan in 1851, although when he died construction stopped. The minaret was thus never finished beyond its base (and one can wonder if it would have been built higher how stable it would have been!).
It was however no sightseeing time yet as I first had to check into my hotel (Arkanchi Hotel, 50 USD/night incl. Breakfast). It is located right in the old city just two minutes beyond the main gate. Staff was again friendly and the room was comfortable and clean. I found breakfast however disappointing and easily the worst of the entire trip. Overall it was a fine choice.
Next up: Exploring the walled desert city of Khiva