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Most luxurious African safari accommodations?

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Old Oct 29, 2018, 8:54 am
  #196  
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Originally Posted by MacMyDay
I cannot compare it to Sabyinyo, but we spent 3 nights in Bisate a few days ago and loved it. Some pictures of the property and our treks here

https://www.flickr.com/photos/132880...57672754278647
Fabulous! How long did you hike before you reached the gorillas?
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Old Oct 29, 2018, 10:16 am
  #197  
 
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Husband, daughter, boy friend and i stayed at Sirikoi in July 2017. We loved it. We stayed in a two bedroom cottage, although there are luxury tents to stay in. There is a three bedroom house, that could house a larger group. Of all the places we stayed on our Sirikoi was the one I most wanted to stay at, and our family loved the most. Meals were served in the main camp area, although as our cottage had a kitchen and dining room, private meals could be served there. There was no spa, and massages would be done in your room. The swimming pool was a little too cool for me, but we did see others use it.

Meals were generally served for your own group alone, although when we were there the guests all hit it off so well we ate our meals at one large table.

As husband loves to fish, we did find out that a fishing expeditions on the banks of Mount Kenya could be arranged. Unfortunately it would only be for half a day. As visibility to land was poor, we were warned that he might be able to fly out, but not land and fish. Smarter heads prevailed and the trip was cancelled prior to any funds needing to be exchanged!
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Old Oct 29, 2018, 10:20 am
  #198  
 
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awesome to hear.

Originally Posted by LinLant
Of all the places we stayed on our Sirikoi was the one I most wanted to stay at, and our family loved the most.
For comparison, where else did you stay at?
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Old Oct 29, 2018, 10:58 am
  #199  
 
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Originally Posted by Ericka
Fabulous! How long did you hike before you reached the gorillas?
First day took over 6 hours for the entire trip, second barely 2 hours. https://thegoodthebadandtheluxurious...-lodge-rwanda/
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Old Oct 29, 2018, 12:37 pm
  #200  
 
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This is a reply to BlueBubble, I accidentally replied to Larkin.
This was our first safari and did not know what to expect. We looked at Micato Safai’s, but for their price point, thought we would much rather be with our own small group. Having heard of horror stories of group trips, the though of spending all that money with people that we might end up disliking was not palatable.
We had a travel advisor arrange a trip for us instead. We stayed at House of Waine in Nairobi, for two nights then drove to Tortillis in Amboseli. Most people fly, but we had fun driving as it gave us a chance to really see the country. Amboseli was tented camps. They did have a separate spa tent, and the swimming pool was warm enough for hubby, but not me. Our driver that drove us from Nairobi was also our driver at Amboseli. Amboseli had lots of dust, and many elephants, along with lions, and cheetahs. We were there for four nights, then flew to Lewa.
Lewa is where Prince William proposed to Catherine MIddleton. They stayed at another camp in the conservancy. Lewa has both black and white Rhino’s, and many Grevy Zebras. We saw our first leopard on our first game drive. From Lewa we flew to the Masi Mara.
Our last stop was Angama Mara in the Mara Triangle. Angama Mara is where the picture scene from Out of Africa was filmed. The camp is located on top of the escarpment, so you have beautiful views of the valley below, but need to take rides up and down the escarpment for your wildlife viewings. We were lucky enough to see a lioness take down and kill a wildebeest at one of the crossings. We had perfect timing of our trip to see the migration, and saw a few crossings. We did not like all the Jeep traffic, it seemed like the Wild West with all the vehicles jockeying for position on the Tanzanian side of the border. Angama Mara had a separate spa room and an infinity pool.
All our excursions were private, we had no shared vehicles. It was a wonderful trip and would love to go back to Africa and especially Sirikoi again.
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Last edited by LinLant; Oct 29, 2018 at 12:49 pm Reason: Error in quoting correct poster.
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Old Oct 29, 2018, 1:11 pm
  #201  
 
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Last year Rwanda doubled the price of 60 mins with the gorillas from $750 to $1500. I've read there has been a significant drop in revenue overall and they are to reduce it to $1050 from November. Uganda has stuck with its $650 and the DRC* to $400.

I enjoyed reading Macmyday's account of his stay at Bisate. Until I read that everyone expects a tip. Did you really tip people, like guides, waiters, drivers, even Guy the gorilla who groped you???

*For FTers, this means Democratic Republic of Congo, NOT Domaine de la Romanee-Conti.

Last edited by Pausanias; Oct 29, 2018 at 1:27 pm
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Old Oct 29, 2018, 1:53 pm
  #202  
 
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Thank you for the great trip report!
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Old Oct 29, 2018, 2:28 pm
  #203  
 
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Originally Posted by MacMyDay
First day took over 6 hours for the entire trip, second barely 2 hours. https://thegoodthebadandtheluxurious...-lodge-rwanda/
From what I understand, since the rangers decide which group treks which gorilla family, you could ask them to put you on an easier trek...there is no guarantee, but still...I am relatively fit, but do not tolerate altitude well, so I might try to ask them that...
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Old Oct 29, 2018, 3:16 pm
  #204  
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Originally Posted by MacMyDay
First day took over 6 hours for the entire trip, second barely 2 hours. https://thegoodthebadandtheluxurious...-lodge-rwanda/
You haven't really trekked until you've done it for almost 8 hours like we did. Amateurs.

Glad you had such a great time. It really is incredible, isn't it? Sounds like the food was much better for you at Bisate than it was for us at Sabyinyo. But at least we only had to spend $750 per day per person!
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Old Oct 30, 2018, 1:39 am
  #205  
 
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Originally Posted by Pausanias
I enjoyed reading Macmyday's account of his stay at Bisate. Until I read that everyone expects a tip. Did you really tip people, like guides, waiters, drivers, even Guy the gorilla who groped you???
This is genuinely the list of people that you're expected* to tip: porters, trackers, drivers, guides. I'm pretty sure Guy wasn't actually reaching out for my leg, but sticking his hand out for $5. Seeing that there were up to 10 staff on a hike, you could easily spend $100 in tips and then some. I don't feel so bad tipping in a country where even $5 can help out immensely, but I don't like how the list of those being tipped seemed to endlessly grow.

* They don't specifically state you should, but it's widely expected.

Originally Posted by in4tar
From what I understand, since the rangers decide which group treks which gorilla family, you could ask them to put you on an easier trek...there is no guarantee, but still...I am relatively fit, but do not tolerate altitude well, so I might try to ask them that...
Your driver will go speak to the rangers and try and get you your desired trek. On the first day we were not even asked what we wanted. On the second day, I gave him the following criteria:
  1. If the hike is so difficult that we have to swim across a river filed with starved crocodile, but we get to be alone, then go for it
  2. If you cannot get us alone, make it an easy hike
  3. If all else fails, put us in a group with others from Bisate
He managed #1 and #2
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Old Oct 30, 2018, 9:20 am
  #206  
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Originally Posted by MacMyDay
Your driver will go speak to the rangers and try and get you your desired trek. On the first day we were not even asked what we wanted. On the second day, I gave him the following criteria:
  1. If the hike is so difficult that we have to swim across a river filed with starved crocodile, but we get to be alone, then go for it
  2. If you cannot get us alone, make it an easy hike
  3. If all else fails, put us in a group with others from Bisate
He managed #1 and #2
even if pure luck, good call describing 1 vs 2
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Old Oct 30, 2018, 1:09 pm
  #207  
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Originally Posted by in4tar
From what I understand, since the rangers decide which group treks which gorilla family, you could ask them to put you on an easier trek...there is no guarantee, but still...I am relatively fit, but do not tolerate altitude well, so I might try to ask them that...
It all depends on what others request and also how and to where the gorilla families move. There are 10 gorilla families you as tourists can visit, and they are tracked in advance to get a broad sense of whether reaching them will be easy (up to 1 hr hike each way), medium (up to 2 hrs hike each way), or difficult (up to 3 hrs hike each way) treks. But as stated, the gorilla families move constantly, so there are no guarantees.

Going for more than 1 day helps. The second day, your hotel driver/guide has a bit more ammunition to beg for an easier (or harder) trek, all other things being equal. It could take up to an hour drive from the ranger station to even reach the start of your trek!

That being said, you never know. Our first day we requested to visit the specific Susa A family that Diane Fossey studied; it was characterized as a medium hike. Unfortunately, a rogue gorilla entered the family’s vicinity after we were assigned but before we started, since our trek began almost 45 min away from the ranger station. It took us 3.5 hrs to find the family, ascending almost 4,000 feet in elevation up the volcano. I think the rangers took pity on us—they said that ours was the hardest trek they’d seen in years—because they gave us about 75 min (an extra 15 min) with the gorillas, supposedly against official regulations but perhaps also within their prerogative under extraordinary circumstances. It took us another 3 hrs to hike back—and it started to rain after only 30 min. It was a disastrous descent in muddy and slippery conditions. I am super fit but still considered whether it was worth it on the way up—but it is! Yet I was so exhausted after the 8 hrs (not including the 45 min drive from the ranger station to the start of the trek or the 45 min drive back to the Sabyinyo Lodge after the trek) that I also stated unequivocally that I wouldn’t do the next day’s trek unless it was easy. Of course, the next day, @KI-NRT and their group found the same Susa A family in like an hour.

The rangers definitely allowed us to do an easy trek the next day, also allowing us to find the Sabyinyo family that typically hangs closer to our Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge. It was a much easier trek that still took 1 hr each way—and mercifully was largely horizontal—and that also started and ended pretty close to our Lodge. That made for a much easier day. Still, the next day I think @KI-NRT and their group found the same Sabyinyo family after just 20 min.

So you never know.

As far as tipping, they do encourage everyone to hire and tip the porters, all of whom are former poachers. This helps discourage poaching and encourages former poachers to find this more gorilla-friendly employment to support their families. We didn’t need a porter, but we both hired a porter for like $10 apiece and tipped the same at the end of each day. It did make our heinously tough trek a lot more palatable and it pleased us greatly to contribute to the cause of helping the gorilllas by reducing the threat from poaching. Porters are also able to help you maneuver and walk up and down the mountainous terrain.
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Last edited by bhrubin; Oct 30, 2018 at 1:14 pm
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Old Oct 30, 2018, 6:23 pm
  #208  
 
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Yes, I see - it's almost pure luck (or lack of thereof) which trek you get...
Since the subject of tips came up - silly question perhaps, but did you tip in local currency or USD?...I have always been tipping in USD on my safaris, but someone pointed out recently that it's more considerate to tip in local currency...
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Old Oct 31, 2018, 12:11 am
  #209  
 
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I am pleased to see that several of these Africa countries (Rwanda/Kenya/Tanzania etc) now operate a visa-on-arrival system. In my day, travelling to these places, it was a major hassle to get a visa from the various embassies and high commissions in London. I see that Tanzania, for instance, charges $50 for everyone except Americans who must pay $100. That seems fair.

PS: bhrubin's post above made me feel utterly exhausted. I had to lie down.

PPS: I'd be interested to know if people going to these countries take all the recommended jabs and anti-malarials. We have gone without malarial pills for many years now and that includes countries like Mozambique and Zambia.
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Last edited by Pausanias; Oct 31, 2018 at 5:42 am
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Old Oct 31, 2018, 6:57 am
  #210  
 
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Originally Posted by bhrubin

As far as tipping, they do encourage everyone to hire and tip the porters, all of whom are former poachers. This helps discourage poaching and encourages former poachers to find this more gorilla-friendly employment to support their families. We didn’t need a porter, but we both hired a porter for like $10 apiece and tipped the same at the end of each day. It did make our heinously tough trek a lot more palatable and it pleased us greatly to contribute to the cause of helping the gorilllas by reducing the threat from poaching. Porters are also able to help you maneuver and walk up and down the mountainous terrain.
Things may have changed since you were here, as the porters are now salaried and even appear as a line on your invoice. They get paid directly by your driver. This is the beginning of where our confusion began, as we had been told to tip porters and that's it. So we did, then we saw our driver paying him and he told us we should be tipping the guide, not the porters, so next day we did both, and then the lodge manager said the trackers are often tipped too. So I'm sure next time I go back those trackers will give me a 19 hour hike as revenge.
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