GTITAN

Hola de Buenos Aires! GUWonder and Gaucho, you were both so right. BA is wonderful. Just taking a break from sight seeing for a moment. The people (and the weather this weekend no less) have been just great. My sister and I are headed to dinner tonight to Estilo Campo for some steak. Any FT'ers been there and if so thoughts? Was recommended by the concierge. Safe travels Y'all!!!^

Reindeerflame

On my first day in Buenos Aires, I was "sprayed" by someone in one of those incidents in which the goal is apparently either to distract and engage in theft, or possibly to earn a gratuity by assisting in cleanup. This occurred in the park area overlooking the English Statue not too far from Retiro station. (this apparently happens all over the place, not just in Argentina, but this is the first time it's ever happened to me).

When a couple pointed out the sprayed material on my cloth bag (containing camera and maps) and clothes, I nonchalantly said "oh, that's OK" and walked off quickly with big, bold strides....much to their apparent dismay.

I would not have been a good prospect for cash, as it was either in a money belt or at the hotel...with only a few pesos in my shirt pocket.

I did not notice who did the spraying.

Later on, I was able to wash the material off without too much trouble...but only after visiting Chiquilin restaurant (excellent meal....$40 including wine and tip) with the marks on my clothes (not discovered until later).

Overall, Buenos Aires looked a bit dirty (Oakland, CA, on my return looked much cleaner) and in need of public works improvements (the missing tiles on the sidewalks and the missing cushions on about half the seats on the commuter train to Tigre). And, at the park in Tigre, families were having a good time on the riverbank....amid lots of trash paper and bottles). The belching vehicles are another story. Let's clean it up, folks!

On the other hand, Patagonia was immaculate!

VPescado

Just how crazy is driving in BsAs?

I've seen the various warnings about not driving in EZE - and was pretty much convinced. Then I noticed something that really scared me.

Check out this traffic camera of the intersection of Av. Belgrano and Av. 9 de Julio. You will likely need to look during daylight hours in EZE as it is live - but try to catch a shot without a lot of traffic.

Check out the lane markings of the oncoming traffic (to the left of the island). The two lanes on the viewer's right (left from the perspective of the traffic) are both marked for left turn *or* straight.

While many places have one lane as left turn only one that optionally allows the turn, I have never seen a place where two lanes are both given these same options.

What happens if the leftmost lane decides to go straight and the second lane decides to turn left? Am I missing something, or is this as scary as it looks?

Jaimito Cartero

I don't find the driving to be so bad. Places where I wouldn't drive: Bangkok, Jakarta, and Sao Paulo.

BillScann

There's no point in driving when taxis are as cheap and plentiful as they are in Buenos Aires.

lili

This also happened to us near the Hilton at Puerto Madero. When a man at the bus stop, quite some distance away, called out to us to point it out I pegged him for the perp and yelled "No, keep back, stay back" and waving my arms even though he was at least 50 feet away and totally alone. He shouted something like be careful, and did that two fingers at the side of the eye warning about thieves. He was a good guy, so I thanked him and appreciated his concern. So what the heck, we walked around the rest of the day with the signs of silly tourist on our backs and no one seemed to notice.

Strangely, John the concierge had just warned Mr. lili to be careful about people wanting to wash your clothes which made no sense to him, since he thought the concierge meant taking them to the laundromat rather than rubbing the mess off your jacket.

Old scam, but first time for me also. I'm glad they were socially responsible and used something that was easy to remove, rather than ketchup or mustard.

Buenos Aires is a great destination, but it's good to stay alert. Ah, there's also that woven string around the wrist game that I don't think they know there yet. Just watched about 6 people fall for that one last week in Paris.

Don't play the shell game either, which I've seen in the relatively sophisticated city of Berlin.

Good luck and enjoy your visit!

Tomayto

What's the string around the wrist ruse?

Tomayto

We're going to Argentina and Montevideo in December. From reading these posts and other reading, I realize robbery is prevalent in Buenos Aires. How about outside of Buenos Aires? Is the crime also as bad in Montevideo?

Jaimito Cartero

I don't consider robbery to be that prevalent in BA, actually. There are things to watch out for, as in any large city. I don't think it's as dangerous as Rome, Bucharest or Quito. If you know the scams that are going on, you should be able to avoid all problems.

Jaimito Cartero

I'd guess that they're trying to give a bracelet, while someone else is relieving you of your valuables while you're paying attention to the person in front of you.

USAFAN

The newspapers write that in BA is a shortage of coins. Actually, that's not a problem for me ... I don't carry coins.

Still, Cristina, please call Hugo Chavez and ask for help...

lili

From Virtual Tourist: Their goal is to find a friendly tourist to stop for a second, give them a finger, and allow them to show you how they make bracelets out of yarn. They'll tie one end to your finger, make the bracelet in a matter of seconds and then charge you for the bracelet. They have you attached to them via the bracelet and they will be very aggressive about you paying them and, because they travel in packs, can be very intimidating for a tourist.

In Rome they weave the bracelet then in a flash tie it on to your wrist and ask for money for the friendship bracelet they have created just for you. You can't get it off to return it, so your "obligated" to pay.

It's only one person, and both his hands are busy making the bracelet, so you figure your wallet is safe.

Y_me?

Pickpocketings, purse snatchings, and, to a much lesser extent, muggings are a moderate concern in Montevideo. Remain aware of your surroundings and exercise normal urban-environment caution. As in many of the world's cities, it's best not to wear expensive jewelry or overly dressy clothes if you're walking around. Leave unneeded money, credit cards, and valuables in the hotel safe. You should be fine during the day (see below for exceptions). Many tourists will find Ciudad Viejo and Centro a bit menacing after dark. There's little police presence, and many streets are dark and deserted.

Which hotel are you staying at? The wealthier outer barrios, such as Carrasco and Punta Carretas, are much safer than Ciudad Viejo and Centro.

Definitely avoid the outer streets of Ciudad Viejo at all times, particularly the southern and western ends of the peninsula. If you're walking to the Mercado del Puerto, don't go beyond Perez Castellano until you get to Piedras.

You can walk along the Rambla during the day, although you may want to avoid the part around the ferry terminal and Rambla Francia. The Rambla is safer from Rambla Sur eastward (again, less so at night). If you're in Ciudad Vieja and Centro after dark, it's best to stick to Avenue 18 de Julio (and perhaps a block on each side: San Jose and Colonia), Plaza Independencia, the pedestrian walk, and Plaza de la Constitution.

The several kids begging for money aren't very aggressive or persistent. Just say "no" and keep moving.

Don't be too alarmed. These warnings are probably overly cautious, and you can make your own risk assessments once you're there.

The touristy areas of Buenos Aires felt reasonably safe for a large city. I felt on edge only once, while walking from Caminto (in La Boca) to El Obrero (a nearby restaurant).

VPescado

Some last minute questions before our trip:

1) Buried deep in this thread Gaucho1K cautions that when purchasing leather (particularly at the less expensive stores) that the buyer must be familiar with leather in order to avoid purchasing inferior goods. While I think that we would be able to examine stitching, etc. for quality, I am not sure what we should be looking for in respect to the leather itself? What are the signs of inferior leather?

2) We likely will not be dressing up too much - I'll probably be wearing a pair of nice black jeans with a button down shirt on most days. I understand that residents of BsAs take pride in their appearance, will there be places that we are likely to visit where I will be considered underdressed? As much as I like to dress comfortably, I really do not want to cause offense.

3) Are there any "gaucho" tours that you would recommend? I did some looking around , but the ones that I have looked at seem very toned down and unexciting (they stress things like going for a ride in a wagon pulled by a horse - where I'd prefer to see more exciting rodeo-style demonstrations).

4) Will there be any particularly exciting futbal or polo matches when we are there (11/14-19)?

5) While researching tickets to events I noticed two shows that looked interesting: Cabaret at Tratro Astral and Erotica Baccanale at TST. These both seem to be musicals (or mostly musical) from my limited ability to translate. Have you read/heard any reviews of either of these shows and do you know if they would be enjoyable to someone that does not understand much Castelliano?

6) Finally, I recall reading a post that describes in great detail different philosophies about eating steak (to slice with the grain or against it, etc.) I thought it was in this thread, but unfortunately after re-reading this entire thread I was unable to find it. Does anyone know where this most passionate post might be found?

VPescado

Ahh...I found it over here

I think it was what first convinced me that I *needed* to go to BsAs.