Bali returns.




Hello again! Around a year ago, I wrote a trip report that included reviews on several hotels in Bali (read that here). Now, with the island reopened and accessible by international flights (and with quarantine being abolished as early as 14 March),* I thought it might be useful to write a report on a few hotels I have stayed at over the past week. I will not have any flight reports included since I am already based on the island.
We booked each of these hotels a day before our check-in date, for maximum flexibility on our side of things. Regardless, many hotel rates on the island are quite stagnant nowadays due to the still low occupancy rates. In fact, at one of the hotels, we were the only guest staying!
Tanah Gajah, Ubud (previously The Chedi Club Tanah Gajah) - One Bedroom Pool Villa
COMO Uma Ubud - Uma Villa
Alila Villas Uluwatu - One Bedroom Villa
Tandjung Sari, Sanur - Two Storey Bungalow
The Legian, Seminyak - One Bedroom Club Villa
Hope you will enjoy reading the following installments, and I hope these reviews can be useful should you plan a trip to the island any time soon.
Travel Requirements for Bali, Indonesia (as of 4 March)
Additional Standalone Reviews
Additionally, below are some Bali hotel reviews I wrote over the past week from stays between the past several months. I had not intended to write a review for those hotels so some of them might be missing pictures of breakfast or hotel grounds/pools.
Maya Ubud (Heavenly Jacuzzi Villa)
Capella Ubud (Keliki Valley Tent)
Komaneka at Bisma, Ubud (Bisma Suite)
Mvenpick Jimbaran (Pool-view Classic Room)
The Kayana Villas, Seminyak (One Bedroom Villa)
Happy Travels!




Tanah Gajah, Ubud
No longer The Chedi Club, but still absolutely wonderful (23 Photos)
Tanah Gajah, Ubud
Tanah Gajah was until 2019, knownas The Chedi Club Tanah Gajah. Tanah Gajah's connection to GHM actually goes a long way. The hotel's original owner was the late Indonesian architect, Hendra Hadiprana, who built the estate to bea private residence. After a few decades, he entrusted the estate toGHM's Adrian Zecha, for it to be turned into a 20-room hotel. After Hadiprana's passingand the subsequent lapse of the management contract with GHM, his family decided to take the hotel independent and dedicated it to his legacy (whilst maintaining marketing with the Legendary Hotels of the World).
The hotel is called as such (Tanah Gajah, lit. Elephant Land) due to the estate's proximity to the ancient Goa Gajah (Elephant Cave), a 9th-century Hindu-Buddhist temple still revered by the local population.
Additionally, bear in mind that the hotel is currently also a bubble-quarantine hotel option to those travelling to Bali.
Check In
The hotel is located some 10 minutes east of Ubud. The hotel's entrance itself is rather small and easy to miss.
We arrived early at 10 am after notifying the hotel of our early arrival the day prior. We actually came to the hotel the day prior to make our reservations, which was promptly arranged by the head of their reservations team. On both days, we arrived at the hotel to find it completely devoid of guests. We later learned that we were the only guests at the hotel.
Since we paid "in advance"and settled the registrations during our reservation, our butler took us immediately to our villa upon our arrival(whilst showing us the hotel's amenities).
This was as a result, probably the most seamless check-in experience Ihave ever had in my 15 years of worldwide travel.

Entrance to Tanah Gajah

Fountain
Room
Our room, a One-Bedroom Club Pool Villa, had been deep cleaned before our stay and was evident from the impressive absence of dust in every nook and cranny in the room. We were driven to our room on a golf cart, and shortly afterward, our luggage was delivered and cleaned witha UV light sanitising tool of some sort.
The villa was rather impressive, particularly with its rice terrace facing infinitypool that offered incredible views.As standard at the hotel, our room came with various club amenities, which included daily laundry, afternoon tea, evening cocktails, as well as complimentary mini-bar.

Pool

Pool

Daybed by the pool

Spectacular views beyond our villa
We were greeted with a couple rather sweet-tasting welcome drinks (which reminded me of the welcome drink at Amankila, only much sweeter), along with some delicious fried plantains and other dry snacks.

Welcome amenity - fried plantains and snacks
At 280 sqm, the "villa compound"was rather impressive, although I personally found the space inside the bedroom itself to be a bit "cramped". The room looked wonderful and was beautifully furnished, but it just felt like the indoor space wasn't proportioned very well. I felt that there was a significant amount of wasted space in the bathroom and closet/storage sections that could have been utilised better.

Bedroom

Bedroom

Huge closet area behind bed
Despite that, I also found the bathroom to be equally beautiful. I am especially fond of the shower and toilet'sterrazzo flooring that reminded me a lot of Amankila's. Toiletries came in reusable containers and appeared to be unbranded (smelled like frangipani and jasmine). The bathroom's water pressure was ratherlow and thus left a bit to be desired, but the water temperatures were great.

Sink and Shower

Shower

Toilet and sink

Outdoor bathtub
Service
Service was attentiveand very personalised. We weren't sure if this was a result of us being the only in-house guests, but the fact that the hotel used to be The Chedi Club also made an argument against that assumption(there were also a handful of outside visitors who paid to ride the hotel's hot air balloon).
Everyone knew wherever we went in the hotel, and our room was refreshed according to our movements (amazing!). The staff was additionally very friendly, and our butlers were in particular very warm and charming (great at making conversation withoutbeing too intrusive).
To make things even easier, the hotel set up a WhatsApp group between us and our butlers, and the dutymanager. This ended up being very useful in practice since all communications became much simpler and our requests were promptly taken cared-of.
Dining
Given the hotel's low occupancy (even that is an overstatement), all meals were served either in-villa or atthe hotel's main dining venue and only restaurant, The Tempayan.The restaurant itself looked impressive and viewed the rice fields.

Tempayan Restaurant
We went for the complimentary afternoon tea on both afternoons of our stay, and the selection of cakes and snacks was identical. The entire settasted good, though it occurred to me that a couple of the cakes seemed to be outsourced. I might be wrong about this, though. Throughout the meal, we were proactively offered refills on our beverages. The rather significant portion of the set meant that we were stuffed by the time we were done, and ended up not having dinner.

Afternoon Tea set
The hotel actually has a dedicated afternoon tea/bar space called the Panen Padi Lounge, although the place does not seem to be used at the moment and is unstaffed.

Panen Padi Lounge
We opted to have our breakfast at the restaurant as well, and the choices were basically between three sets: the Indonesian breakfast (includes fruits and Nasi Goreng fried rice,Mie Gorengfried noodles, orBubur Ayamrice congee), the Western breakfast (fruits and eggs any style or pancakes), or the healthy breakfast (cereal or oatmeal, a lean sandwich, and yogurt). Bear in mind that the hotel isn't serving pastries at the moment.
Over the course of our stay, wetried the Omelette, Scrambled Eggs, Bubur Ayam rice congee, and the Mie Goreng fried noodles. Food quality was overall high, and I'd have to call the Mie Goreng fried noodles the best of the dishes we had. The noodles were steaming hot, very fluffy and flavourful and packed with vegetables and seafood; this easily made it delicious, and perhaps the best fried noodles I've ever had. The other options tasted good as well, although didn't compare to the fried noodles.

Fruits

Scrambled Eggs

Fried Noodles

Fried Noodles

Omelette

Rice congee
We were also proactively offered drink refills, which included the juices and smoothies. The mango smoothie I'd have to say was particularly delicious, being light, and both sweet and sour.
Overall
Overall, despite not being a Chedi anymore, the Tanah Gajah remains an exceptional hotel. From the beautiful hotel grounds to the great service, I'm very happy to recommend this hotel and would come back in a heartbeat.












When nightly room tariffs are in the hundreds of euros, why would bubur ayam -- chicken porridge -- and soto ayam, or chicken turmeric soup, make the cut?
Having flown business on a number of airlines, I was always disappointed to get for example, noodle soup on Cathay Pacific, or whatever the hell a US-based airline served.
Is there a demographic that votes for inexpensive comfort food masquerading as local cuisine? Sure. Though, for a nice hotel like the Alila, or a CX J seat, I'd expect more.




When nightly room tariffs are in the hundreds of euros, why would bubur ayam -- chicken porridge -- and soto ayam, or chicken turmeric soup, make the cut?
Having flown business on a number of airlines, I was always disappointed to get for example, noodle soup on Cathay Pacific, or whatever the hell a US-based airline served.
Is there a demographic that votes for inexpensive comfort food masquerading as local cuisine? Sure. Though, for a nice hotel like the Alila, or a CX J seat, I'd expect more.
Throughout my travels, I find that hotel breakfasts dishes look generally the same anywhere and differ mostly in quality. For the most part, I personally don't care for fussy food unless they can execute it nicely. I remember having a Lobster and Caviar Omelette for breakfast at Singapore's St Regis, but it disappointed me so much that I had the local Nasi Lemak (which maybe costs ~EUR3 outside the hotel) for the rest of my one week stay.












Having said that, thank you so much for taking your time to read these reviews, and I hoped this might be helpful if anyone is planning a future trip to the island.
Safe travels as always,
clubeurope


Hopefully I will be able to have the family long weekend in Bali I postponed at least 3 time since 2020. As I have a quite big number of Accor points to spend the hotel selection will be quite limited, from what I'm reading probably better to avoid Movenpick, I'd probably have to stick on Sofitel or Amarterra Villas, as I'm not so much interested in Kuta/Legian area. There is also the new Raffles but at 1000+ USD per night I'm do not have the courage, even using points
Last edited by BobFF68; Mar 14, 2022 at 3:12 am




Hopefully I will be able to have the family long weekend in Bali I postponed at least 3 time since 2020. As I have a quite big number of Accor points to spend the hotel selection will be quite limited, from what I'm reading probably better to avoid Movenpick, I'd probably have to stick on Sofitel or Amarterra Villas, as I'm not so much interested in Kuta/Legian area. There is also the new Raffles but at 1000+ USD per night I'm do not have the courage, even using points
I absolutely understand your qualms about the Kuta/Legian area, the place hasn't had the best reputation in a while. Likewise, my experience mimics your sentiments about the MovenpickAs such, I wouldn't stay there unless for a short layover. I've not stayed at either the Sofitel or the Amarterra, but I have passed by the Sofitel a few times whilst staying at the Kayumanis next door. The Sofitel occupies a nice (but relatively narrow) stretch of beach and their beach area looked rather lively.
I have visited the Writer's Bar at Raffles and I thought that the hotel looked wildly overpriced for what it is; The design looked elegant but I didn't like how dark the colour palette was. The gardens also looked spartan for some reason (despite being done by a famous landscaper).
Accor had a Fairmont in Sanur for around 7 years, it was a great hotel during its heyday and was of excellent value, but sadly the hotel is now an InterContinental.







As for Ubud, I think the three places you're looking at are all very great choices, so you won't go wrong between any of them. Between the three, I've personally stayed at the FS Sayan, and have visited Mandapa and Viceroy on a couple occasions. I personally really liked the FS and I found its architecture and service to be outstanding, and their river pool to be beautiful. However, the hotel does not offer much as much of a view (whereas Viceroy and Mandapa features valley views) and their food is forgettable. Viceroy is run by an Aussie family and has a great pool, but its rooms are rather aged. Mandapa is the newest of the three, and I personally like the hotel's design. One thing to note is that both Mandapa and FS are connected to the Ayung River where many rafting activities go through, so occasionally you might hear screaming rafters when staying at their river villas.
Safe travels!



