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Old Apr 7, 2009, 11:53 am
  #1  
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Late August RV Vacation

We’ve booked a trip to Alaska for the end of summer and would greatly appreciate comments or recommendations on our itinerary as well as help with a few specifics.

We’re renting an RV for a week followed by a one week cruise from Whittier to Vancouver. We’ve never rented an RV before nor have we ever stayed in campgrounds so this should be a good soft adventure introduction to camping.

My thoughts on the RV week were to drive up to Denali, head across the Denali Highway to Kennicot and Wrangell then back to Anchorage stopping in Palmer during the Alaska State Fair. I had considered inserting Fairbanks into the trip but I’d like to avoid touristy attractions – plenty of time for souvenir shopping in the ports during the cruise week and I try to avoid busloads of tourists and guides where possible. Also, since the cruise would cover the shore aspects of the region, I'd use the RV to concentrate on inland scenery.

So my questions are:

How would you divide the time between places in this loop. With the details of learning about the RV and provisioning it the first day, I don’t expect to make it all the way to Denali. Is there a good halfway point or sights along the way for a stop.

How would you spend a multiday visit to Denali. I’ve read where people take the bus to Mirror Lake and back in a day. What about a second whole day?

I’m aware that the Denali Highway and Kennicot roads are insurance invalidators. Could anyone with recent experience on these roads comment? I tend to think the insurance clauses are overprotective and I’m willing to take some risk in driving these stretches if the roads are not washed out.

Regarding campgrounds - any suggestions?

In my brief read of ‘RVs for Dummies’, they suggested that camping on the roadside in the lower 48 states is dangerous due to potential robberies. I thought that wouldn’t apply in Alaska. The Denali Highway seems like a nice remote stretch of road. Is it dangerous or uncommon to spend the night on it or other roads in Alaska?

One thing we wanted to try was riding a plane and landing on a glacier. Any ideas on a place to try this? I thought joining a larger group might bring the price down as opposed to charting a plane for 3 passengers (?)
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Old Apr 8, 2009, 4:39 am
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Great plans, edsh! Hope you enjoy your trip!

The loop you describe is a good start.

Denali is about a four-hour drive from Anchorage (five tops), so depending on what time you pick it up, you should easily be able to make it unless you really don't want to. There isn't much between Wasilla and Denali, so if you're going to stay the night somewhere in your RV, your choices are limited to Talkeetna (worth the 20-mile side trip) and perhaps a small handful of places that aren't near any major settlements (there are some pulloffs in Denali State Park without hookups or facilities that may work). Remember, too, that the sun will be up for a good maybe 16-18 hours in August, and along with the extended daylight will come a feeling of extra energy. In Anchorage, you'll find people out biking, running, or just wandering around the town well past 9 or 10 pm, and you may be more than happy to drive longer distances than you otherwise would in normal daylight.

I strongly suggest ordering a copy of The Milepost, available at a discount at Amazon.com, which will tell you exactly where facilities for parking your RV are and much, much more. You will find it invaluable in planning for your trip.

If you have the time, a second day in Denali could be used to do some of the activities located near the park entrance, such as whitewater rafting, the sled dog demonstration, or, if you discover a great area on your bus trip on the first day you'd like to explore, a return to that area for some hiking. See the Wikitravel article on Denali for a fairly comprehensive description of what's available in and near the park. (Browse through the Wikitravel articles on Alaska and some of the cities and regions of Alaska for some more good reading material.) If none of those activities sounds like your cup of tea, I think a single day in Denali riding the bus as far as you want would suffice. Of course, a second day gives you the option to shuffle the bus ride if the weather isn't cooperating on the first day (though don't despair if you don't actually see the mountain--relatively few people do!).

I've only driven the Denali Highway once--probably about 12 or so years ago--and while it wasn't too bad, it isn't I-95. I hesitate to say that you'll be fine doing it in an RV, but I wouldn't rule it out altogether. The scenery is unique--I got the feeling that I was driving on the surface of the moon (especially after dark!), since it's very wide open and barren, although you do see some mid-height mountains in the distance. It's not overly spectacular, though, and if you determine that risks exist, I wouldn't feel too bad about skipping it. The Milepost may help you with this decision, but perhaps other FTers who have driven it more recently can comment, too.

If you do end up skipping the Denali Highway, it's not actually much longer just to keep driving north through Fairbanks and then back down south, since you can do 55-65 the whole way (or whatever an RV tops out at). While you're in Fairbanks, some of the touristy attractions actually aren't all that bad--I didn't do the Riverboat Discovery or El Dorado Gold Mine, but their brochures actually made them look like fun. If you're into technology and the sciences, UAF has a well-respected geophysical institute which offers tours (2008 tours; 2009 ones are not yet posted), and getting up close and personal with the Trans-Alaska Pipeline System is always fun. Even if you're not into those things, the UAF Museum of the North has a very good collection of exhibits about Alaskan history and living. If you have extra time (perhaps not likely), Chena Hot Springs is, as I recently found out myself, worth the soak (although I think my impression was affected by the novelty of having my body at 106 degrees and my head at negative 20... ).

The McCarthy road, however, is a different story, or at least it was when I drove it about 15 years ago. It's only 60 miles, but it took us (and we're aggressive drivers!) three hours to go just one way. It's a pretty drive, but the stress of driving diminished the enjoyment of the views somewhat. I also personally found the stuff at the end of the road--specifically the Kennicott copper mine ruins--uninspiring and not worth the effort to reach them (although I may have heard recently that the boarded-up buildings may be more accessible, officially or unofficially, now than they were when I was there). The road may have been improved slightly since I was there, but my gut doubts that. More Wikitravel links that may help you: McCarthy and Wrangell-St. Elias NP&P.

I'd personally skip that drive and opt for the safer and more awe-inspiring trip over Thompson Pass to Valdez. If you ask me, that's one of the most beautiful stretches of highway anywhere in the world.

Most of the roadside outside the major cities of Anchorage and Fairbanks is extremely remote. I wouldn't necessarily be concerned about robberies when the nearest settlement--even the nearest gas station--is 50 or 150 miles away, but things can happen on lonely roads that would still make me leery of parking overnight. I've never driven an RV, though, so I have no real experience or words of wisdom to offer you in that area.

As to the glacier landing, I'm thinking your best bet would be from Talkeetna, which may dovetail perfectly with your plan to not drive all the way to Denali your first day, since there are many activities to do there (including a fun trip up a river). Talkeetna Air Taxi, K2 Aviation and Talkeetna Aero Services, the main operators out of Talkeetna, both do glacier landings. Other flightseeing tours are available from Denali (Era Helicopters' glacier tour [though check where it leaves from--I think I've seen an Era Helicopters base along the Parks Highway a bit north of Talkeetna, which is not close to the Denali park entrance], Fly Denali, Denali Air [no glacier landing option]), Anchorage (Rust's Flying Service [no glacier landing option]), and Girdwood (Alpine Air Alaska).

Last, we've discussed the subject of what to see and do when driving around Alaska in several different situations. Check out this post, in which I've linked to many threads I've found have good discussion of the subject. And don't forget your Milepost!

Sounds like you've got a great trip planned. You'll enjoy it thoroughly and will leave wanting to come back and experience the neverending magic that is Alaska! Safe travels...and say hi when you come up!

Last edited by jackal; Apr 8, 2009 at 4:49 am
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Old Apr 8, 2009, 7:58 pm
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One thing I'd tack on to jackal's reply is that by late August, the fall colors have usually arrived in the Fairbanks area. It's no Vermont, but the hills are often completely golden thanks to the birch trees turning. And Fairbanks does have some pretty interesting things to do, contrary to what the average Anchorage-ite who has never even bothered to go up there would tell you (I used to work with a girl in Anchorage who said she never wanted to go to Fairbanks because somebody told her there weren't any traffic lights there. True story, I swear. She was also a blonde).

The UAF Museum of the North is constantly rated the best man-made attraction in the state, and Chena Hot Springs is a great side trip, especially if you want to take some nice hikes; Angel Rocks is a great three-ish hour loop that's not too straining, and can also be extended all the way to the hot springs if you so choose; the trailhead is around milepost 45 or 50 of Chena Hot Springs Road. I've never done the Riverboat Discovery, but everyone I've talked to about it says that it's fun to do.
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Old Apr 9, 2009, 7:45 am
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Thanks very much to both of you for your ideas. I think Fairbanks would be a nice 'return to civilization' break in the middle of the week before heading back through Wrangell.

I had one other question. Having never been to Alaska the image I have is gained only through a mental montage of Discovery Chanel episodes so please forgive any inaccuracy. The activity I came up with is putting on a wet suit and kayaking through a crystal blue sea of floating icebergs with baby seals (or polar bears) swimming by. If you can stop laughing long enough, can you suggest if this is possible around Valdez/Anchorage or along the cruise route we plan during the second week: Skagway, Juneau, Ketchikan.
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Old Apr 9, 2009, 8:59 pm
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Not too many icebergs on the southern shores of Alaska in August (unless you take a boat cruise out to a glacier), and polar bears don't usually venture south of the Brooks Range (a good 200 miles north of Fairbanks).

A good site with comprehensive listings of activities (aside from Wikitravel, which is good but is user-updated and is occasionally missing some things) is http://www.alaska.org. It's run by some people I know and isn't too influenced by paid listings (as far as I know; that's The Milepost's downfall), and they do make good value judgments and only post the stuff that's worthwhile.

Last edited by jackal; Apr 10, 2009 at 1:56 am
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Old Apr 10, 2009, 3:43 am
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Originally Posted by Chugach
One thing I'd tack on to jackal's reply is that by late August, the fall colors have usually arrived in the Fairbanks area. It's no Vermont, but the hills are often completely golden thanks to the birch trees turning. And Fairbanks does have some pretty interesting things to do, contrary to what the average Anchorage-ite who has never even bothered to go up there would tell you (I used to work with a girl in Anchorage who said she never wanted to go to Fairbanks because somebody told her there weren't any traffic lights there. True story, I swear. She was also a blonde).

The UAF Museum of the North is constantly rated the best man-made attraction in the state, and Chena Hot Springs is a great side trip, especially if you want to take some nice hikes; Angel Rocks is a great three-ish hour loop that's not too straining, and can also be extended all the way to the hot springs if you so choose; the trailhead is around milepost 45 or 50 of Chena Hot Springs Road. I've never done the Riverboat Discovery, but everyone I've talked to about it says that it's fun to do.
Not only does FAI have traffic lights, it has interchanges & even an airport

Do obtain a copy of the Milepost - an invaluable guide to Alaska! Even locals have a copy or two laying around

And if you are into brewed beverages, FAI also has a Brewery, (no rootbeer- my one time visiting it I was a minor so it was no fun ) but I heard good things from the older kids (it was a college trip) about the brew. Silver Gulch is the name and is on the way IIRC to a TAPS visitor center (another cool place to visit in FAI area)
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Old Apr 10, 2009, 3:51 am
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Originally Posted by jackal
Originally Posted by edsh
Thanks very much to both of you for your ideas. I think Fairbanks would be a nice 'return to civilization' break in the middle of the week before heading back through Wrangell.

I had one other question. Having never been to Alaska the image I have is gained only through a mental montage of Discovery Chanel episodes so please forgive any inaccuracy. The activity I came up with is putting on a wet suit and kayaking through a crystal blue sea of floating icebergs with baby seals (or polar bears) swimming by. If you can stop laughing long enough, can you suggest if this is possible around Valdez/Anchorage or along the cruise route we plan during the second week: Skagway, Juneau, Ketchikan.
Not too many icebergs on the southern shores of Alaska in August (unless you take a boat cruise out to a glacier), and polar bears don't usually venture south of the Brooks Range (a good 200 miles north of Fairbanks).

A good site with comprehensive listings of activities (aside from Wikitravel, which is good but is user-updated and is occasionally missing some things) is http://www.alaska.org. It's run by some people I know and isn't too influenced by paid listings (as far as I know; that's The Milepost's downfall), and they do make good value judgments and only post the stuff that's worthwhile.


My sister has gone Kayaking in Prince William Sound and it is a very cool experience from what I hear. No polar bears this far south, but you do get to see whales, dolphins, sea otters, puffins, etc... (of course- one could take a cruise out of Seward or Whittier to see this too, but if you enjoy kayaking... )

Fishing also could be an option...

I am guessing your flying up to ANC and driving around the state, heading back to ANC and then somehow getting to Whittier... how? There are buses... but the Alaska Railroad is the way to go! It actually deviates from along the highway for a while, there's a nice dining car, and observation cars too ^

And if not enough... local FT'ers always are looking for excuses to visit - so here's the http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/commu...up-thread.html

Have a great trip though and welcome to Alaska!
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Old Apr 10, 2009, 11:53 am
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With only a week to spend, I would definitely skip Wrangell/St. Elias NP. You really just don't have the time.

You could do something like this:

Day 1 arrive ANC get RV, grocery shop, maybe grocery shop, to Palmer

Day 2 State fair, maybe Independence Mine, Eklutna, Iditarod HQ in Wasilla

Day 3 to Talkeetna, flightseeing (7pm flight has 2-for-1 coupon in Toursaver book)

Day 4 to Denali, some activities near the park entrance, drive to Fairbanks

Day 5 all-day shuttle bus to Wonder Lake (not Mirror Lake)

Day 6 to Fairbanks, afternoon activities there

Day 7 am activities, start drive back to Anchorage

Day 8 arrive Anchorage

You could make it from Fairbanks to Anchorage in one day but I would plan on 8+ hours - RV's go slower than cars, some traffic, road construction delays, etc. You never know in AK in the summer. Some roads have been closed for days at a time due to roads or bridges being closed.

End of August should be amazing for the fall colors in Denali.

Don't be in a rush to get on your cruise ship. You can either get a kayak tour in Whittier or take one of the excellent Prince William Sound boat tours. The timing of the PWS tours works great with the train or some shuttles from Anchorage - start about 1pm, end about 5pm, then you can get on your ship for dinner. You can drop your luggage off before your PWS cruise and the boat company will keep your carry ons. You get much closer to glaciers on this small boat than you ever will on your cruise ship.

John
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Old Apr 10, 2009, 7:43 pm
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We rented an RV from GAH (Great Alaskan Holidays) last September for a 9 day trip preceeding our 32 day cruise from Whittier to Bangkok (Laem Chabang). It was a phenomenal trip, including our having won the Denali Lottery (sorry, you are too early with your August rental to enjoy that great experience). With the wonderful help I got here on FT (including alphaeagle driving us through on our lottery day since our RV was a 25' and was 3' longer than was allowed to take onto the park roads past the first section), our trip was a breeze.

We took over 500 pix on that day in Denali and a couple of them are in a couple of earlier postings pertaining to our trip.

You are probably correct that you won't get away from the rental dealer early enough to make it all the way to Denali. By the time they had done the excellent and complete video briefing with us (our appt. was at 11 AM) and checked us out, and we were stocked up, it was around 2 PM. Unless you've rented the RV for the "night" before your trip starts, you may not get a pick-up time assigned before 12 noon. On that first afternoon, we drove a bit past Talkeetna and parked a little further towards Denali at a lovely roadside parking place on the left side (jackal -- please help me with the name of the small state park area). Don't forget the DEET -- or you will be eaten alive as soon as you stick your head out of the RV at that parking spot.

We are in Florida right now and all my notes are in Germany, so I can't help much until we get home mid-May. If I can help then, just send me a pm and I'll get back to you.

P.S. The Riley Campgrounds at Denali are a real pleasant place for your stay. You will need to reserve in advance and IIRC, it's $20 per night (or $10 if you are eligible for the sr. pass). These are nicely wooded spots, although with no hook-ups and only limited time allowed to use your generator (I think until 8 PM). Fresh water and dumping station are available at the nearby general store.

YOU ARE GOING TO HAVE A WONDERFUL TIME!!
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Old Apr 11, 2009, 12:49 am
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Originally Posted by Tenerife
On that first afternoon, we drove a bit past Talkeetna and parked a little further towards Denali at a lovely roadside parking place on the left side (jackal -- please help me with the name of the small state park area).
I thought I had a Milepost in my car I could reference, but I guess I took it out and it's in the house. Will look when I get home.

Off the top of my head, I know there are three pullouts in Denali State Park--a northern viewing point, a southern viewing point, and the veteran's memorial in the middle.

The veteran's memorial is on the right, so it had to be one of the other two if it was on the left. I'll look and get back to you later.
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