Thanks very much to both of you for your ideas. I think Fairbanks would be a nice 'return to civilization' break in the middle of the week before heading back through Wrangell.

I had one other question. Having never been to Alaska the image I have is gained only through a mental montage of Discovery Chanel episodes so please forgive any inaccuracy. The activity I came up with is putting on a wet suit and kayaking through a crystal blue sea of floating icebergs with baby seals (or polar bears) swimming by. If you can stop laughing long enough, can you suggest if this is possible around Valdez/Anchorage or along the cruise route we plan during the second week: Skagway, Juneau, Ketchikan.