ironmanjt

So, I'm working on visiting every country in the world by my next birthday, which should culminate with a giant party for family and friends. But, even after my Thanksgiving adventure to Cuba and Algeria, I have 11 to go in just over 9 months. That's some serious work to do.

I had it all planned out. But then it changed, and changed again. Not because anything bad happened, but probably more because I almost enjoy the planning as much as I do the traveling. Heck, I just changed the plans again today. So what are the plans?

First, there's this trip. The Gambia, Guinea-Bissau, Liberia, Sierra Leone, and Guinea. I'd planned to also throw Mali and Mauritania into the mix, but I decided, well, that was just a little too much Africa and developing country travel with one trip. It was a wise choice...because when this trip ended I was wiped out.

I mentioned it to HauteBoy and he had similar plans, so told him he was welcome to tag along. Obviously, there was a miscommunication, because he booked plans that pretty much overlapped as little as possible with my plans. That, or I smell...could be either.

Then, I mentioned the plans to DanielW who I'd seen in Dubai just a few weeks prior, and he was also game to join for part of it. Things slowly came together, and we were off.

Unfortunately, right in the middle of planning this, I had to plan a giant conference in Bangkok for work. You know, that place half the way around the world I had to figure out a way to get 50 people from 40 different countries to...on top of organizing a week of events for them. Did I mention I needed 5 visas too?

Oh, visas. Yes. Jason's visa service, despite being in Bangkok during much of the planning, earned a 5-Star TripAdvisor review. I think I bounced back and forth to the Liberian embassy in DC at least 6 times with my passport, DanielW and HauteBoy's passports...but eventually...all visas were obtained.

We'd be together for a good amount of the trip, but not all of it. See, I read dicey things online about going overland from Guinea to Sierra Leone, and decided I was having none of it. Well, that and I found that I could get an amusing reward between them on Air France with Delta miles...and a full day in Paris to book. SOLD!

If this doesn't make you quiver with antici....pation...you can check out some of my other trip reports:

I. London to Iran and Afghanistan in a mix of C, F, and LCCs
II. Above the Arctic Circle with UA/CO/LH and SK in whY, C, and F
III. Around the World in 40 Days for 40 Years
IV. 8 Places People Who Are Right in the Head Do Not Spend New Years
V. 12 Countries, 10 Airlines, 4 Islands, 27,080 miles, 11 Days
VI. 6 Countries in 6 Days - Caribbean Island Hopping and first AA Experience
VII. Guyana, Suriname, and French Guyana with an unexpected sidetrip to Caracas!
VIII. To Haïti - for vacation and a milage run!
IX. Around Senegal and West Africa
X. 4th Annual New Years in Dangerous Places - Libya Edition
XI. Kosovo and FYR Macedonia - Milage Run in United Business + TK/LH
XII. Washington to Peru and Machu Picchu on COPA and TACA
XIII. To Johannesburg...for 36 hours!
XIV. Here a Stan, there a Stan, everwhere a Stan Stan....
XV. Air Burkina, Air Cote d'Ivoire and 7 countries in West Africa
XVI. Turkey for Thanksgiving....with a side of Tajikistan, Serbia, Montenegro, and Moscow
XVII. Into the Heart of Darkness... Congo, Angola, Gabon, OH MY!
XVIII. HI! Four Islands, Lots of Planes, Beaches, and Convertibles
XIX. Plenty of Salt, Not Enough Oxygen...a Trip to Boliva, Colombia, and Ecuador
XX. Learning to Relax - Long Weekend in St Christopher and Nevis
XXI. You're spending New Years WHERE? IRAQ? (2009-2010)
XXII. Pineapples, croissants, and neon OH MY! A trip to Hawaii, Paris, Andorra, and Vegas
XXIII. South Pacific, Israel, Lebanon - 6 weeks - 71,500 miles - 24 countries
XXIV. Sundae bloody Sundaes...a 2014 United Year in Review
XXV. Lakes, Lemurs, and Lithuania: Horton Hears a Houthi!
XXVI. First Americans tour to North Korea 2005 - Arirang Mass Games
XXVII. Doing the Needful - Lufthansa Business US to Chennai
XXVII. C-ing things: Canada, Curry, Cameroon, CAR, Chad, Camels, Chengis Khan and China!
XXVIII. Learning my ABCs: Algeria, Bahama, Cuba and the Cubana IL-96

So, the trip is over now, and there was remarkably little drama. Well, until the end, when things went belly up in the most spectacular of ways. Unlike usual, I'm going to get this done in short order...so the planned parts will be:

1) DC to Banjul, The Gambia in United First and Brussels Airlines business
2) Visiting The Gambia
3) Banjul to Ziguinchor, Senegal overland and visiting Ziguinchor
4) Ziguinchor to Bissau, Guinea-Bissau overland and visiting Bissau
5) Bissau to Dakar, Senegal on ASKY and visiting Dakar
6) Dakar to Conakry, Guinea on ASKY and visiting Conakry
7) Conakry to Paris on Air France, visiting Paris
8) Paris to Freetown, Sierra Leone on Air France, visiting Freetown
9) Freetown to Monrovia, Liberia on Air Cote d'Ivoire and visiting Monrovia
10) Monrovia to Accra, Ghana...with a huge helping of drama
11) Accra to DC on BA, American, and United business first

If you are map challenged on Africa, it looked something like this:



Sit back, grab some Chicken Yassa, because here we go...

krazykanuck

Oh this will be good. And I get the first reply. Do I win a prize from Africa (that isn't ebola )?

wrp96

With a title like that, who can resist subscribing? I bet the story behind the title is going to beat the time I had to bribe my way out of Ghana with a bottle of Tylenol and a bottle of Milk of Magnesia

DanielW

I bet AF J didn't have the colourful interior and thumping bass beats of our sept-place to Ziguinchor!



Thanks again for the awesome trip through West Africa, from the tasty pizza texane in Dakar to the rapid fire taxi negotiation in fluent French for our overland trip to Bissau. And of course the five star Jason's visa service without which I would have been stuck in Freetown!

Hope the last six countries on this epic quest will be as much fun as these last few have been!

ironmanjt

Couple of days at home after Christmas to get things sorted, and it was time to head out on the more-or-less annual New Year's Trip. I'm actually super excited for 2016-17 New Years, because I have no plans - nowhere I "have" to go, and I can actually do whatever I want. Pretty exciting after 10+ years of using the long weekends to take advantage and visit multiple countries.

Decided to be a bit economical, and take the Metro to National Airport, and no drama at all...which is much better than my usual commute where 15 minutes frequently turns to 30-45 at least once a week due to broken down trains, smoke in tunnels, you name it, it's been a problem with Metro lately. Note that this post is going to be mostly photos, because there is only so much you can keep saying about United service.

Instead, this time, the drama was to be with United. No sooner did I arrive at the airport then I got notification my flight would be delayed an hour due to a late arriving aircraft. Of course. Nothing to do with weather in Chicago (for a change in December) it just looked like a crew rest issue turned into cascading delays for little things.

The United Club was open, however, and had this festive offering I haven't seen before. United Club Eggnog? That just screams salmonella in a jug to me, so I decided to pass:



An hour turned into two, and I finally headed to the gate hoping to have 30 minutes left to make my connection in Chicago. But, there was drama. When I checked in, United was "unable" to assign me a seat. Gate agent confirmed the flight was "overbooked" by two in first, and based on the seat I had originally reserved (and the person eventually occupying it) it was clear I was a victim of a Federal Air Marshal. I was offered "probably" a middle seat in coach - but since the flight was overbooked she refused to even guarantee that.

I reminded her that United's policy for overbooked first is NOT to just downgrade whoever happens to not have a seat, but to downgrade upgraders first, followed by award tickets, and then order of status/fare. Being a 1K on a paid ticket, there's no way I should be downgraded. She refused. I asked for supervisor. She refused. I asked for her name, so I could share with corporate that she doesn't like their policy, because it makes her life difficult when I write them for compensation.

She relented, and called up the two upgraders - both of whom happened to be Global Services. Hahaha. To their credit, they were completely understanding and took the downgrade compensation. I guess when you fly THAT much you tend not to pull DYKWIA stuff. I know it's only a 90 minute flight, but at the same time, being on a paid first ticket it was the principle of the matter...eventually ended up sitting next to a no-status bro on an award ticket who announced pretty much right away his intention to "get totally obliterated by the time we get to Chicago because I'm going to Vegas." Maybe the new United policy should be to downgrade in order of behaviour...

United flight 619
Washington DC, National (DCA) to Chicago, O'Hare (ORD)
Depart 13:46, Arrive 15:05, Flight Time: 2:19
Boeing 737-700, Registration N27724, Manufactured 1999, Seat 3A
Miles Flown Year-to-Date: 123,910
Lifetime Miles Flown: 2,162,877

PDB were offered, and we were treated to a nice sunset on the way to Chicago:



Other than that, pretty generic United 737 flight. Snack basket was offered, and when we pulled into the gate there were only 14 minutes to make my connection. We parked next to the United First lounge, and I decided to go there first. Having lost out on my 2.5 hour connection, I asked if instead of running for it they could just put me on the later flight to London instead, so I had some time to get work done. The same fare bucket was still available, and they were happy to make the change. I love this lounge.

Another reason I love this lounge:



Had a small mini pre-dinner while getting some work done. Another reason to like this lounge past Veuve...it satisfies my cheese obsession:



Somewhere around Veuve number three before boarding...



Flight was parked just a couple of gates away from the lounge, and got there just as they started boarding.

United flight 938
Chicago, O'Hare (ORD) to London, Heathrow (LHR)
Depart 21:05, Arrive 11:05, Flight Time:.8:00
Boeing 767-300, Registration N658UA, Manufactured 1993, Seat 1K
Miles Flown Year-to-Date: 127,863
Lifetime Miles Flown: 2,166,830

Welcome aboard glass of the ever-classy Oscar Cliquot, in fancy Maison Plastique crystal:



Hooray...we get the short rib...again!





Warm nuts, and a rather respectable malbec to start things off. I never understood the obsession with "warm nuts." I actually prefer them at room temperature - lots of times when they're warm they verge on hot and feel a bit mushy.



Coconut shrimp skewer and taboleh? Odd choice, but hey, it beats the two tiny shrimp shrimp cocktail they've been serving lately.



All was forgiven, because the garlic bread was in plentiful supply tonight...and the salad had tasty olives on it:



Baja Chicken Enchilada soup...a bit strange...and passed on it after a few bites:



Nasty overcooked short rib. I really really need to learn my lesson about ordering beef on United.



As cheese plates go, it was decent. Oddly, it came pre-plated, which was really strange for United. According to the crew, it came that way? Is this a new catering enhancement?



Tonight's request for "caramel and cherries" netted the average three...which overall is how this United flight was. Average.


Managed a solid five hours of sleep, and woke as we were only about 20 minutes from London. Great view of the Thames this morning:



Took the insanely long walk to the United First lounge, where I was asked why I wasn't on my flight to Brussels. Um, excuse me? My new flight arrival time left a five minute connection, so there was no way to make it. Seems the agent in Chicago didn't change my connection when she rebooked me for the later London flight, giving me a chance to make it if my arrival into London was earlier.

The club staff said they'd work on it while I showered, and when I came back 30 minutes later I'd been rebooked on the next departure - on BA! I was pretty surprised they didn't make me wait an additional two hours for the Brussels Airlines flight, but it was a pleasant surprise! After a bit of rehydration, they offered to drive me to terminal five. Yes, it was no Lufthansa Porsche, but you read that right...United drove me across the tarmac to the other terminal instead of making me use the inter-terminal busses. I was floored...and yet another reason I think the London station remains the finest in the United system.

Having no status with One World, I got the honour of checking out BA's regular business lounge. It was actually quite nice, I'd say even nicer than Lufthansa's Senator lounges (note I didn't even dare compare it to anything United offers) and I was pleasantly surprised. Can't wait to see the First lounge on my next trip through. This was my first time in T5, and my gate was right near two very important things: Starbucks and the lounge. Enjoyed some Starbucks, and soon, it was time to board:

British Airways flight 398
London, Heathrow (LHR) to Brussels, Belgium (BRU)
Depart 15:15, Arrive 17:30, Flight Time:.1:15
Airbus A320, Registration G-EUYE, Manufactured 2009, Seat 1F
Miles Flown Year-to-Date: 128,081
Lifetime Miles Flown: 2,167,048

Had a glass of water as a pre-departure, and being only one of two people in business on this very short flight, service was great. She insisted I have champagne for my first BA experience, and how could I say now. Even got my own bottle.



While enjoying my second great inflight sunset in two days, she insisted on a champagne refill. Yes, that meant another bottle.



Arrived to Brussels, and was absolutely wiped out. Additionally, security in Belgium was a nightmare. Apparently the Belgian police had received "very specific and credible" evidence the city's New Year's celebrations were to be the subject of a terrorist attack, and everything had been canceled. Trains were also running on a severely reduced schedule. I'd planned to head out and do dinner with friends in Liège, but given the late arrival, lower train schedule, I just couldn't do it. Managed to stay awake until about 9pm, then absolutely passed out for nearly 10 wonderful hours at the airport Sheraton.

Nice leisurely stroll to the airport in the morning, stopping along the way for some Starbucks of course. Security at Brussels has been massively renovated and upgraded in the last year, and is so much nicer now. No more underground walkway between terminals, and everything is light, airy, and much more efficient. The only downside is the exit-immigration for the G Gates was a zoo today, and I had to wait nearly an hour to clear. Seems every Africa flight was operating today - along with JFK - so there were seven full A330s leaving at the same time. No priority line either, so wait wait wait.

While waiting, I got an email that HauteBoy might not make it, because he'd once again booked some ridiculously short 45 minute connection in Paris, and that flight was now running late. You would think after 190+ countries he would have learned to build in time to drama-proof trips

As coffee was kicking in, I enjoyed a few pain au chocolates in the Brussels lounge, and soon it was time to board. Fortunately HauteBoy showed up just in time, and I wished him good luck back with the cattle, and best wishes for avoiding the diseases I've heard are found back there, boarded, and turned left...

Brussels Airlines flight 203
Brussels, Belgium (BRU) to Dakar, Senegal (DKR)
Depart 11:05, Arrive 16:15, Flight Time: 6:10
Airbus A330-300, Registration OO-SFO, Manufactured 1994, Seat 1K
Miles Flown Year-to-Date:.2,778
Lifetime Miles Flown: 2,169,826

Rather strange amenity kit, containing quite unimpressive contents:



Wait...they have a beer of the month? Belgian beer on the menu? Wow - awesome and unique!



Although the menu was a bit seafood heavy (which I try extremely hard to avoid on planes) it also looked super tasty, so I decided to go for it and inshallah all would be ok. There were only three people in business today on top of it, while economy was completely full. It was my lucky day!





Wait, there's an entire beer menu?! Sure, the Stella and Hoegaarden aren't impressive, but look at all those great Belgian beers. You can mark this down as the first time ever I would get rather happy in business class, and there would be absolutely no wine involved!



Mackerel starter with mixed nuts and raisins, and a Gulden Draak...delicious!



The smoked eel and radish starter, continuing with the same beer. It was 10% ABV so had to pace it a bit. Also, look at that awesome pretzel roll and butter. Mmm...



Decided to go with the scallops main (yes, even more seafood!) and switched to the Julius beer since the menu said it went well with seafood. I absolutely wasn't disappointed! Delicious!



...and with the fantastic cheese course, the "Forbidden Fruit" beer. The nice flight attendant said "ooooh, this one I know, it has made for many not very memorable nights...I predict you will sleep after this!"





...and finally, I was looking really forward to the rum-pineapple-marscapone baba for dessert, but it was not to be. The chocolate mousse with passionfruit sauce was a pretty darn good substitute, however!



Defying the odds (I had slept 10 hours the night before, after all) I stayed awake and watched movies, and two hours later was ready to take one more for the team and try the kriek. I usually don't like fruit beers, but this one was pretty darn tasty and went well with some nice Belgian chocolates!



...and, because I couldn't let the last one go...



Soon we were arriving Dakar on time, and the other three in business class deplaned, giving me a private plane for the onward short flight to Banjul:



Since the flight time would be too short to enjoy a beverage, while waiting on the ground during cleaning, the purser asked which beer had been my favourite, and insisted on bringing me another to enjoy while waiting for the plane to be cleaned:



Soon we were off for the short 25 minute flight to Banjul.

Brussels Airlines flight 203
Dakar, Senegal (DKR) to Banjul, The Gambia (BJL)
Depart 17:25, Arrive 18:15, Flight Time:.0:50
Airbus A330-300, Registration OO-SFO, Manufactured 1994, Seat 1K
Miles Flown Year-to-Date:.2,900
Lifetime Miles Flown: 2,169,938

Flight was very short and uneventful, was the first one in line to immigration, and I didn't ask about the visa on arrival, and they didn't ask for one...so I was stamped in and that was that. In advance, the visa is $100 and visa on arrival is supposedly about $30-40, but perhaps since I arrived behind a large plane full of British tourists (who don't need visas) they forgot to ask me? Either way, was nice to save the money. Waiting for Jordan in baggage claim:



Exterior of the airport, grabbing a taxi to the hotel:



With that, I'd entered my 186th country, and there were only ten more to go! Now, off to explore The Gambia!

MatthewLAX

I'm getting sick just looking at all that beer!

ironmanjt

HERETIC!

Tychian

Nice write-up! Jordan mentioned that you like to travel up-front while we were doing our run into Libya. I can see why

krazykanuck

I now want to fly Brussels in Business Class just for that beer menu.

The best inflight beer experience I've had flying is a toss up between long haul pmUS, which catered Sam Adams, and other non-swill beers and SQ which is essentially all you can drink Tiger.

DanielW

The Veuve Clicquot and all those fine Belgian beers show impeccable taste. Not sure about the choice of a Melissa McCarthy movie though.

makin'miles

I love your reports - looking forward to this one, and awesome that you're getting close!

ironmanjt

About two weeks before the trip, I got an email from SPG that the Sheraton Gambia Resort was no longer the Sheraton, but had kindly agreed to honour SPG awards but not benefits. Well, considering it was like 2,000 SPG points per night (a complete bargain since I value points at 2.5 cents...meaning $50 a night and the paid rates were over $200) I could forego the benefits for a super cheap stay.

Upon arrival, the resort looked much better than online reviews would lead you to believe. People complained about shoddy run-down facilities, terrible food, disinterested staff, mosquitos eating you alive in the middle of the night, you name it. People did not have nice things to say about this property.

I got a nice little bungalow on the second level, and overall it seemed good. It was a bit damp and musty smelling, but hey, this is a country where humidity hovers around 99% so what do you except. Clearly not rebranded toiletries:





After a quick shower to wash off the plane gross, headed down to the hotel outdoor bar and cafe for a bit of dinner. The creatively named JulBrew (Banjul, get it?) and a big heaping plate of chicken yassa. Definitely super tasty! I don't know why people were complaining about the food...AND cheap! Most of the people at the resort were Brits and on all-inclusive package tours, so they seemed quite confused when we wanted to sign our drinks to the room.



Had a good night of sleep, and in the morning had to be up at oh-dark-thirty for our "Roots Tour." Daniel had found the tour, and since the former Sheraton was a bit out of town, we were the early stop on the tourbus pickup. The bus kindly came with a map of The Gambia on it, so you could see the river - part of which we'd be navigating. This seemed like a good way to spend the day, since when an entire country is named after a river it would be a shame not to spend some significant time on said river!



The views from the pier weren't half bad...it was a bit overcast, which was great for keeping the temps cool:



Our boat:



Just kidding...this was our boat...marginally better:



After a nice two hour or so cruise up the river in relative cloud cover, we finally docked on this beach:



...and arrived at the twin villages of Albreda and Juffureh:



The "Roots Tour" was so named because in the 1970s American author Alex Haley wrote a book called Roots which claimed he had traced his slave ancestry all the way back to The Gambia and "The African Kunta Kinte." These were the villages Kunta Kinte were supposedly from. I say supposedly, because there's lots of controversy around the book involving plagiarism and allegations that the book is largely a work of fiction based on what he experienced trying to find his roots. Regardless, it was a very interesting insight into his journeys. A "never again" monument to slavery in the village:



The remains of an old Portuguese church - possibly one of the earliest Christian churches in Africa:



The women and children of the village were all assembled to sing for us...and of course the donation basket was out:



Jali, playing the Kora - he wrote a special Ode to Jordan the Traveler...unfortunately I can't get the video to post!



Jufurreh...a baby-friendly community!



...and there were certainly lots of children around...again, note the donation tin. Pay us for being cute!



Women pounding out grains for either tourist photos or to eat...it was unclear which. But the way she pointed at me...and said YOU PAY ME...I have my suspicions...



We were followed around the village the whole time by a group of local Gambian police, including my friend "The Colonel." He kept saying to me "Big man! My friend! You lift weights!" To his credit, he never asked for money or anything, he just wanted a photo as we got on the boat and ready to leave...I love this pic!



Once back on the boat, a buffet lunch was served. Some spicy beef rice (with extra hot sauce), pumpkin, and other local vegetables. Rather tasty!



Soon, we were approaching Kunta Kinteh Island:



Why was this island so important? Well I'm glad you asked!



Remains of the old fort where slaves were held, often hundreds to a room, before transport on to Goree Island in Senegal and eventually across the ocean:



Cannons from the Old Fort:



More ruins of the fort:



After the island, we settled in for the long two plus hour cruise back to Banjul. Chatted with a couple of Londoners on the trip back, who snapped this pic of us just handing out on the boat...complete with passed out Swedish tourist in the foreground:



On the way back into town, we convinced the bus driver to stop a second to snap a picture of the national liberation monument:



Back at the ex-Sheraton, and after a quick dinner completely passed out. Daniel was staying at another place across the street, so once we had dinner he took off and I'm pretty sure we all passed out quickly.

Up early, and a nice view of the pool, with the ocean in the background:



Beach chairs, and a volleyball net:



The beach at the resort...only moderately crawling with local hucksters trying to entice you on boat tours, "come drink with me in my local bar" (I mean, I'd love the chance to get drugged and mugged, sign me up!), etc...and it was a nice beach, so worth the mild hassle:



Strange art at the resort. There were several cats roaming the property, and this was apparently an artist's rendition:



The walls of the resort were covered with all sorts of local art:





We had arranged with the bus driver from the day before to drive us to the Senegal border in the morning instead of trying to negotiate with some random taxi, and while we waited, I checked out the local news. The President was apparently urging all Gambians to live "as one strong family"



There were also 20+ full page ads in the newspaper from various companies, wishing His Excellency, President Sheikh Professor Doctor Al-Hadji Yahya AJJ Jammeh Babili Mansa a Happy New Year. Now if that name isn't impressive...





Our driver arrived right on time, and it was time to get on the road for Senegal!

yyz_atc_lj

Love the Winnipeg Jets shirt!!! Great trip report so far and as always am enjoying!

manneca

Thanks!

DanielW

And the only one brave enough to dance with the locals.