ShouldaBeenABlonde

Does anyone know of any cool little pubs anywhere in Ireland. I know they are everywhere, but are there any that are must- see's? I'm planning a trip in November over Thanksgiving. I like out-of-the-way non-touristy places where you can meet a lot of local people. I'm flying into Dublin, then taking a road trip from town to town. My itinerary is totally open.

I guess the real question is, has anyone found any gems in the smaller towns?

j379pa

I visited England and Scotland for the millenium change, but not Ireland, but I think my information may be relevant.

I did the "Stay on a Farm" program sponsored by the U.K. government, essentially bed and breakfasts out in the country on farms. They ranged from a true working farm near York to an absolute mansion on the Isle of Wight. None were over $40 (single, off season). All were clean, comfortable, and quiet.

Each of these places were able to recommend the best local pubs to visit, and I was never disappointed. It was, in fact, one of my favorite experiences of the trip, helping me visit some true local places that I wouldn't have otherwise.

So--my suggestion is to find a similar program for lodging, or at least plan to stay in locally owned places rather than "brand" hotels, get friendly with the management, and ask lots of questions!

If (when!) I ever get to Ireland, I want to visit Leo's pub up on a remote coast, which is where Clannad and Enya got their start. Leo is the father to several band members, and to Enya. A check of a few fan websites might put you onto the town.

You might also want to read Paul Theroux's book "The Kingdom by the Sea", about his walk around the coast of the UK. It includes a great story about a pub experience! You should be able to find it on amazon, or on bookfinder.com, a used book site.

Have fun!

JP

[This message has been edited by j379pa (edited 07-21-2001).]

[This message has been edited by j379pa (edited 07-21-2001).]

[This message has been edited by j379pa (edited 07-21-2001).]

GRR_Flyer

I did an Ireland golf trip a couple of years ago and ended my trip with 3 days in Dublin. Even though the Temple Bar area is one of the hot tourist destinations - there are so many pubs in that area that you can't miss. I met some really cool people while watching a Manchester United soccer match at one pub, and found a great traditional band at another pub in that area.

My motto was as long as it's got Guinness, then it's great!

onslow

In Dublin you have to try the Hairy Lemon, it is supposed to pour the best pint of Guiness anywhere.

stimpy

One of my favorites is a basement bar in Limerick where I saw four generations of families drinking and singing Irish folk music on a Friday night. I can't recall the name, but it's downtown under a popular hotel that has a disco on the upper floor.

Kilkenny is another great place for traditional pubs. I recommend getting out of Dublin and heading south or west to escape the tourists.

SeeYa

It all depends on how far you want to go. I have made two trips to the west coast in the past year, and can highly recommend the small towns/villages there. A place that's on all the tourist 'must see' lists is Doolin, near the Cliffs of Moher. This is a small town with 3 bars and a reputation for music. The bus tours come thru during the day, but then they are gone. It you stay overnight, you'll run into tourists from Germany or France, but they are all there to enjoy the music and the craig. As with most pubs in Ireland, you may go in alone, but won't stay a stranger.
Further up the coast, in Westport is a very popular(touristy) bar called Mat Molloy's. He is the flautist of The Chieftains. It gets crowded with tourists, but the music can be great.
I believe the pub owned by the parents of Enya is somewhere in County Donegal.

onslow

Another one in Dublin is O'Shea's the Merchant down the Liffy on the opposite side of the river from the Four Courts. They have good live irish music and irish dancing. There is always a real friendl bunch in there. Across the road is one of the oldest pubs in Dublin (although remodeled), the name escapes me at the moment. They also have live music and dancing, a must see.

If you want to mingle with the Irish stars like U2, Van Morrison, etc. try the night club called Lilly Bordellos.

Then there also the wine bars on Leeson Street, another irish tradition. They only open 11pm and stay open till 4-5am. Everyone goes there after the pubs and night clubs shut.

If you want something quite and different on the West Coast try Salt Hill in County Gallway. Quite a few authentic pubs there. Try Lonnegans Atlantic Bar, you can sit inside and look out into Gallway Bay. A great way to spend a cold damp afternoon.

hreamer

My vote is for any bar advertising the "trad," or traditional music.

One thing to remember, the bars close early but, that doesn't necessarily mean they stop serving early. I was in more than a couple of bars which merely closed the doors at closing time, and kept serving till the wee hours.

My favorite town was Dingle. Great bars. And way out Dingle peninsula is a bar which claims to be "the western most bar in Europe." Bar was ok, but the drive there was breathtaking. And if you do go to Dingle (you really should) be sure to take Connor Pass either into or out of town. WOW!

I wasn't that impressed with Doolin. Too touristy.

Have a pint for me!!!

ShouldaBeenABlonde

Thank you all so much!!!! This is exactly the information I am looking for. The small towns and little inns/BBs are my style when I am in Europe. I tend to avoid the larger cities (shame on me) and head straight to the "hills". It seems like the smaller towns that aren't overrun by tourists throughout the year are, I don't know, different.

My friend from Scotland is going to ferry his car over and we're going to hit the road and do some exploring/heavy drinking. If there is one thing he and I do well together - it's drink. He's like me - hang out with the locals have a good "craic". These are the best vacations in the world.

I'm only making one exception to my small town "rule"...I'm actually going to spend three days in London the weekend before Christmas. Kind of an all expense paid type of thing (cheap US ticket + SWU's + Hilton Award Stay) to do some x-mas shopping. I'll be home on x-mas eve.

Please keep the suggestions coming...I'm sure my itinerary will be filled before the end of this thread... Thanks again!

Points Scrounger

Knowing I'm off to Ireland a couple of times later this year, a friend gave me a copy of McCARTHY'S BAR by Pete McCarthy. It's a hilarious account of random, un-itineraried travel in Ireland. You'll surely appreciate his Singapore Noodle Index as a town-by-town price comparison guide.
Doubt I'll have time to get out of Dublin on those trips myself. Side trip to Scotland instead for old times' sake.

JAP

ShouldaBeenABlonde,

You should try places like West Cork, or Kinsale for a good authentic experience - let me know where / when your plans are, and I'd be delighted to help

JP

ShouldaBeenABlonde

Unfortunately, CO cancelled my departure flight and tried to re-book me on an alternative date, which was not conducive to my schedule. I ended up cancelling this trip on 09/10, which totally bummed me out. I hate it when I run out of vacation days for the year. Oh well, there's always next year.

Thanks everyone for the great responses!