SFO-ATH 34 Hour Survival on QR J Return & Al Mourjan: Deep Dive Athens During Covid
Jul 11, 2022, 11:15 am
#16
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SFO-ATH 34 Hour Survival on QR J Return & Al Mourjan: Deep Dive Athens During Covid
Part 08: Diving Deeper in Athens – From the Roman Agora to the Acropolis
Within spitting distance to the south (slightly uphill) from the Hadrian’s Library is The Roman Agora of Athens.
Quoting from an online source: The original agora was destroyed in the Persian invasion of 480 BCE, but the Athenian statesman Pericles (l. 495-429 BCE) oversaw its restoration and development between 460-429 BCE. This version of the district remained the commercial and political center of Athens even after Greece fell to Macedon after the Battle of Chaeronea in 338 BCE. Under Macedonian rule, Athens was expected to keep the army of Alexander the Great (l. 356-323 BCE) well supplied but, otherwise, the city was more or less left alone
Photo: The Gate of Athena Archegetis (aka Roman Agora Gate), at the Roman Forum of Athens
Photo: Roman Agora
Photo: Roman Agora
Photo: The Gate of Athena Archegetis (aka Roman Agora Gate)
While on the HOHO one day, we hopped off at the Temple of Olympian Zeus in Athens, also known as the Olympieion. It was built over several centuries starting in 174 BCE and only finally completed by Roman emperor Hadrian in 131 CE. Its unusually tall columns and ambitious layout made the temple one of the largest ever built in the ancient world.
Photo: Image of Temple of Olympian Zeus, restoration in progress.
Photo: Hadrian’s Gate at the Temple of Olympian Zeus
We saw very few people at the TOZ and at one point we were the only two!
Our next destination was the Acropolis (a collection of Temples on top of a rock), the most visited sights in Athens, and indeed in Greece. The Acropolis needs no introduction. Just "Bing" it up!
From Hadrian’s Gate at the Temple of Olympian Zeus, it was not far to the Acropolis. By mid-afternoon, temperature was heating up. A hat and hydration were your friends for this easy uphill hike. There was a visitor center at which they checked your tickets, or you buy it from here.
On the way up, signage is found at critical locations. Some examples are shown below:
Photo: Collage of signage at the Acropolis
Photo: Collage of sights on the way up to Acropolis
On the trail up to the Acropolis, I couldn't help but to notice the Filopappou Hill where Apostle Paul preached to the Gentile (Greek) on the top of that hill.
Photo: Filopappou Hill
Apostle Paul came to Athens in 51 CE, when Athens was a small city, with a population of about 20,000. He preached to the Philosophers on top of this hill.
Don Richardson tells a fascinating story of the “altar to the unknown god,” referred to by Apostle Paul in Acts chapter 17:12-34. This story is based upon a number of historical documents and sources, which Richardson cites in his book.
Paul’s visit to Athens is a part of what is generally referred to as the “second missionary journey” of Paul. This journey began after the Jerusalem Council was held, at which time the Jerusalem elders and the apostles concluded that the Gentile converts did not have to become Jewish to become a Christian. Christianity was, as it were, distinguished from Judaism, even though salvation came through Judaism. This paved the way for even more extensive evangelism among the Gentiles.
We’ve arrived! Plenty of tourists were here. We were greeted with gorgeous weather: blue skies with cumulus white clouds and the welcoming breeze.
Photo: Ruins in the form of rocks, pillars and columns
The holiest of all Athenian temples was built long after the construction of the Propylaea and the Parthenon, between 421 and 406 B.C. The tripartite construction consists of the Temple of Athena Polias, occupying nearly half of the whole construction. Beside the northern hall it is especially the Porch of Maidens with the Caryatides that make the Erechtheum one of the Acropolis' most famous buildings. West of the Erechtheum, a small open district borders on the Temple of Athena Polias: the Pandroseion. This is an excerpt from the official web site of the Acropolis of Athens.
Photo: Collage of remaining buildings. Seeing the effects of renovation and re-construction, an on-going project
Photo: The Porch of the Caryatids, part of Pandroseion Erechtheum
Photo: The Porch of the Caryatids, part of Pandroseion Erechtheum
On the southern side of the construction which is of Attic-Ionic style, the entablature is carried by artificial stone replicas of the Karyatides: a larger-than-life representation of graceful slave girls from Karyai, whose task consisted in guarding the sanctuary. Five of the originals can be found in the Acropolis Museum. Another original remains in the possession of the British Museum. Report said that Boris Johnson had refused to return it to Greece despite repeated request by the Greek government.
Photo: Parthenon with major restoration going on
History dot com has this summary to describe the Parthenon: The Parthenon is a resplendent marble temple built between 447 and 432 B.C. during the height of the ancient Greek Empire. Dedicated to the Greek goddess Athena, the Parthenon sits high atop a compound of temples known as the Acropolis of Athens. Throughout the centuries, the Parthenon withstood earthquakes, fire, wars, explosions and looting yet remains, although battered, a powerful symbol of Ancient Greece and Athenian culture.
Photo: The Parthenon, 447-432 BC by Architects Iktinos and Callicrates
Photo: The Parthenon during restoration
Photo: 3 Years ago, Parthenon under restoration.
Photo: National flag, the Blue & White (matching the colors of the sky, how cool is that!)
No question, the Acropolis and all that are up here are treasures of Greece and great testament of History for the world to see and learn.
Next Up Part 09: More Diving Deeper in Athens – From food to HOHO
Within spitting distance to the south (slightly uphill) from the Hadrian’s Library is The Roman Agora of Athens.
Quoting from an online source: The original agora was destroyed in the Persian invasion of 480 BCE, but the Athenian statesman Pericles (l. 495-429 BCE) oversaw its restoration and development between 460-429 BCE. This version of the district remained the commercial and political center of Athens even after Greece fell to Macedon after the Battle of Chaeronea in 338 BCE. Under Macedonian rule, Athens was expected to keep the army of Alexander the Great (l. 356-323 BCE) well supplied but, otherwise, the city was more or less left alone
Photo: The Gate of Athena Archegetis (aka Roman Agora Gate), at the Roman Forum of Athens
Photo: Roman Agora
Photo: Roman Agora
Photo: The Gate of Athena Archegetis (aka Roman Agora Gate)
While on the HOHO one day, we hopped off at the Temple of Olympian Zeus in Athens, also known as the Olympieion. It was built over several centuries starting in 174 BCE and only finally completed by Roman emperor Hadrian in 131 CE. Its unusually tall columns and ambitious layout made the temple one of the largest ever built in the ancient world.
Photo: Image of Temple of Olympian Zeus, restoration in progress.
Photo: Hadrian’s Gate at the Temple of Olympian Zeus
We saw very few people at the TOZ and at one point we were the only two!
Our next destination was the Acropolis (a collection of Temples on top of a rock), the most visited sights in Athens, and indeed in Greece. The Acropolis needs no introduction. Just "Bing" it up!
From Hadrian’s Gate at the Temple of Olympian Zeus, it was not far to the Acropolis. By mid-afternoon, temperature was heating up. A hat and hydration were your friends for this easy uphill hike. There was a visitor center at which they checked your tickets, or you buy it from here.
On the way up, signage is found at critical locations. Some examples are shown below:
Photo: Collage of signage at the Acropolis
Photo: Collage of sights on the way up to Acropolis
On the trail up to the Acropolis, I couldn't help but to notice the Filopappou Hill where Apostle Paul preached to the Gentile (Greek) on the top of that hill.
Photo: Filopappou Hill
Apostle Paul came to Athens in 51 CE, when Athens was a small city, with a population of about 20,000. He preached to the Philosophers on top of this hill.
Don Richardson tells a fascinating story of the “altar to the unknown god,” referred to by Apostle Paul in Acts chapter 17:12-34. This story is based upon a number of historical documents and sources, which Richardson cites in his book.
Paul’s visit to Athens is a part of what is generally referred to as the “second missionary journey” of Paul. This journey began after the Jerusalem Council was held, at which time the Jerusalem elders and the apostles concluded that the Gentile converts did not have to become Jewish to become a Christian. Christianity was, as it were, distinguished from Judaism, even though salvation came through Judaism. This paved the way for even more extensive evangelism among the Gentiles.
We’ve arrived! Plenty of tourists were here. We were greeted with gorgeous weather: blue skies with cumulus white clouds and the welcoming breeze.
Photo: Ruins in the form of rocks, pillars and columns
The holiest of all Athenian temples was built long after the construction of the Propylaea and the Parthenon, between 421 and 406 B.C. The tripartite construction consists of the Temple of Athena Polias, occupying nearly half of the whole construction. Beside the northern hall it is especially the Porch of Maidens with the Caryatides that make the Erechtheum one of the Acropolis' most famous buildings. West of the Erechtheum, a small open district borders on the Temple of Athena Polias: the Pandroseion. This is an excerpt from the official web site of the Acropolis of Athens.
Photo: Collage of remaining buildings. Seeing the effects of renovation and re-construction, an on-going project
Photo: The Porch of the Caryatids, part of Pandroseion Erechtheum
Photo: The Porch of the Caryatids, part of Pandroseion Erechtheum
On the southern side of the construction which is of Attic-Ionic style, the entablature is carried by artificial stone replicas of the Karyatides: a larger-than-life representation of graceful slave girls from Karyai, whose task consisted in guarding the sanctuary. Five of the originals can be found in the Acropolis Museum. Another original remains in the possession of the British Museum. Report said that Boris Johnson had refused to return it to Greece despite repeated request by the Greek government.
Photo: Parthenon with major restoration going on
History dot com has this summary to describe the Parthenon: The Parthenon is a resplendent marble temple built between 447 and 432 B.C. during the height of the ancient Greek Empire. Dedicated to the Greek goddess Athena, the Parthenon sits high atop a compound of temples known as the Acropolis of Athens. Throughout the centuries, the Parthenon withstood earthquakes, fire, wars, explosions and looting yet remains, although battered, a powerful symbol of Ancient Greece and Athenian culture.
Photo: The Parthenon, 447-432 BC by Architects Iktinos and Callicrates
Photo: The Parthenon during restoration
Photo: 3 Years ago, Parthenon under restoration.
Photo: National flag, the Blue & White (matching the colors of the sky, how cool is that!)
No question, the Acropolis and all that are up here are treasures of Greece and great testament of History for the world to see and learn.
Next Up Part 09: More Diving Deeper in Athens – From food to HOHO
Jul 11, 2022, 11:34 am
#17
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Bainbridge Island, WA
Posts: 8,965
Really enjoying your report. Health issues has prohibited us from returning to Greece anytime soon so I am experiencing a journey vicariously. Not to take away from your great images....I thought I would share this one with you. Taken in 1969 it was my first ascent to the Acropolis. There was a photographer who took pictures of tourists as they went up and would have the photos developed and ready to buy on your return down. In 1969 nothing was roped off and I remember scampering all over the Parthenon, inside and out,
Jul 11, 2022, 6:50 pm
#18
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Jul 11, 2022, 8:29 pm
#19
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Really enjoying your report. Health issues has prohibited us from returning to Greece anytime soon so I am experiencing a journey vicariously. Not to take away from your great images....I thought I would share this one with you. Taken in 1969 it was my first ascent to the Acropolis. There was a photographer who took pictures of tourists as they went up and would have the photos developed and ready to buy on your return down. In 1969 nothing was roped off and I remember scampering all over the Parthenon, inside and out,
Thank you so much for sharing that photo of yours. Handsome looking young guy!
These days, Some sites were roped off. The restoration project is huge and goes on for years.
Hope my TR brings back some fond memories! Thanks for reading!
Jul 11, 2022, 8:33 pm
#20
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Jul 11, 2022, 8:42 pm
#21
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SFO-ATH 34 Hour Survival on QR J Return & Al Mourjan: Deep Dive Athens During Covid
Part 09: More Diving Deeper in Athens – From food to HOHO
From the Acropolis looking in the north-east direction, you will see the City of Athens below and the Lycabettus Hill on the right. We were at the cable car station one night but did not go up. Many tourists go up there to witness the sunset. The view from there of the Acropolis was supposed to be great (regret we didn’t witness it).
We stayed at the Acropolis until closing (18:00 if I recall correctly). At that time, the security urged people to leave. We complied and exited, but not until I snapped a shot of Athens cityscape.
Photo: One last look from the Acropolis. The city of Athens and the Lycabettus Hill
It was a very rewarding afternoon (wish we were allowed to stayed for the sunset). We were quite exhausted, nonetheless.
Besides checking out a some of archaeological and historical sites, we also immersed ourselves into some Greek culture, particularly their food culture! We didn’t look for real fancy meals, just everyday Greek foods that we happened to enjoy.
We noted that despite Covid was still in everyone’s the mind, the outdoor dining scene was robust, particularly in late afternoon and at night, in the Plaka area.
Photo: Dining al fresco, mid-afternoon in the Plaka area.
Three years ago, when we were in Athens, we tried and loved the sauvlaki. Sauvlaki is the street food of Greece, among an assortment of others. We went to a very well known (via online social media) joint named Kostas Sauvlaki. If you are here you will find a constant short queue of 6 to 10 hungry people (locals and tourists) ordering food. Then eat outside the square.
Early afternoon, we were in the neighborhood near Kostas, so we dropped in for some tasty sauvlaki as our late lunch. Its online fame has not spoiled the quality of food!
Photo: Sauvlaki grilled lamb and pork wrapped in pitta. At Kostas
Photo: Kostas sauvlaki from 3 years ago. Not much has changed!
On other occasion, we returned to Zisis for their fish. Unlike 3 years ago, this time we sat down at a table and ordered plated food as well as cones. We loved the food so much that the wait staff brought out the chef to meet us!
Photo: Zisis Fish In A Cone, the octopus was out of this world. The smoked sea bass was awesome too!
Photo: 3 years ago, at the Zisis. We did the Cones on the sidewalk!
More food story to come later.
Because of Covid, we avoided public transportation such as metro subway, trams and buses. That said, we did take the HOHO (Hop-On-Hop-Off) double decker bus. We do this in most big cities, because it is (IMHO) the best way to get a general feel of the city and its neighborhoods. Not to mention you can hop off to sight see and then hop back on later. Some images shot from the HOHO bus are shown below. On the upper deck, the top was open except on a rainy day. We encountered mixed weather sometimes on the same day.
HOHO ticket could be purchased online. There were too many OTAs touting it as to be confusing. Besides, we had no idea which day we would use it, so we did not buy online. On the morning we decided to do the HOHO, we walked to the nearest bus stop and bought it from an agent there. The fare online was €16 for 1 day pass. When I paid (cash only) the lady, she gave us the ticket for €16, but said it was good for 2 days! I asked her to repeat what she said, just to be sure. BOGO for HOHO! What a deal!
Photo: Upper deck of HOHO bus. The roof was closed due to rain.
Photo: Sight-see on HOHO bus, this is Monastiraki Square
Photo: Athens street scene. Life begins after coffee and followed by cigarette.
Photo: The Panathenaic Stadium captured from the bus far far away!
Photo: Traffic gridlock Athens style
On the HOHO bus system, there are several routes served by buses of different colors. There are designated stops where you can transfer from one route to another. This is a great way to cover lots of different neighborhoods of the city, all with that single pass.
Photo: The blue bus
Photo: On a HOHO bus with roof opened
Photo: Lycabettus Hill at a distance.
At the Monastiraki Square stop, we jumped off and went to check out the Municipal Central Market (aka Dimotika Agora).
Photo: At the Dimotika Agora (aka Municipal Central Market), a whole sale market
Photo: At the Dimotika Agora
Photo: At the Dimotika Agora
Each day we walked 15,000 to 26,000 steps (recorded on my phone). The most interesting walks were around the Plaka and Anaflotika neighborhoods. Couple of times, when our feet were heavy and tired, we hailed a taxi to go back to the hotel, even it was only 2 or 3 km distance.
More on Plaka and Anaflotika to come later.
Next Up Part 10: More Diving Deeper in Athens – Hiking in Plaka & Anafiotika
From the Acropolis looking in the north-east direction, you will see the City of Athens below and the Lycabettus Hill on the right. We were at the cable car station one night but did not go up. Many tourists go up there to witness the sunset. The view from there of the Acropolis was supposed to be great (regret we didn’t witness it).
We stayed at the Acropolis until closing (18:00 if I recall correctly). At that time, the security urged people to leave. We complied and exited, but not until I snapped a shot of Athens cityscape.
Photo: One last look from the Acropolis. The city of Athens and the Lycabettus Hill
It was a very rewarding afternoon (wish we were allowed to stayed for the sunset). We were quite exhausted, nonetheless.
Besides checking out a some of archaeological and historical sites, we also immersed ourselves into some Greek culture, particularly their food culture! We didn’t look for real fancy meals, just everyday Greek foods that we happened to enjoy.
We noted that despite Covid was still in everyone’s the mind, the outdoor dining scene was robust, particularly in late afternoon and at night, in the Plaka area.
Photo: Dining al fresco, mid-afternoon in the Plaka area.
Three years ago, when we were in Athens, we tried and loved the sauvlaki. Sauvlaki is the street food of Greece, among an assortment of others. We went to a very well known (via online social media) joint named Kostas Sauvlaki. If you are here you will find a constant short queue of 6 to 10 hungry people (locals and tourists) ordering food. Then eat outside the square.
Early afternoon, we were in the neighborhood near Kostas, so we dropped in for some tasty sauvlaki as our late lunch. Its online fame has not spoiled the quality of food!
Photo: Sauvlaki grilled lamb and pork wrapped in pitta. At Kostas
Photo: Kostas sauvlaki from 3 years ago. Not much has changed!
On other occasion, we returned to Zisis for their fish. Unlike 3 years ago, this time we sat down at a table and ordered plated food as well as cones. We loved the food so much that the wait staff brought out the chef to meet us!
Photo: Zisis Fish In A Cone, the octopus was out of this world. The smoked sea bass was awesome too!
Photo: 3 years ago, at the Zisis. We did the Cones on the sidewalk!
More food story to come later.
Because of Covid, we avoided public transportation such as metro subway, trams and buses. That said, we did take the HOHO (Hop-On-Hop-Off) double decker bus. We do this in most big cities, because it is (IMHO) the best way to get a general feel of the city and its neighborhoods. Not to mention you can hop off to sight see and then hop back on later. Some images shot from the HOHO bus are shown below. On the upper deck, the top was open except on a rainy day. We encountered mixed weather sometimes on the same day.
HOHO ticket could be purchased online. There were too many OTAs touting it as to be confusing. Besides, we had no idea which day we would use it, so we did not buy online. On the morning we decided to do the HOHO, we walked to the nearest bus stop and bought it from an agent there. The fare online was €16 for 1 day pass. When I paid (cash only) the lady, she gave us the ticket for €16, but said it was good for 2 days! I asked her to repeat what she said, just to be sure. BOGO for HOHO! What a deal!
Photo: Upper deck of HOHO bus. The roof was closed due to rain.
Photo: Sight-see on HOHO bus, this is Monastiraki Square
Photo: Athens street scene. Life begins after coffee and followed by cigarette.
Photo: The Panathenaic Stadium captured from the bus far far away!
Photo: Traffic gridlock Athens style
On the HOHO bus system, there are several routes served by buses of different colors. There are designated stops where you can transfer from one route to another. This is a great way to cover lots of different neighborhoods of the city, all with that single pass.
Photo: The blue bus
Photo: On a HOHO bus with roof opened
Photo: Lycabettus Hill at a distance.
At the Monastiraki Square stop, we jumped off and went to check out the Municipal Central Market (aka Dimotika Agora).
Photo: At the Dimotika Agora (aka Municipal Central Market), a whole sale market
Photo: At the Dimotika Agora
Photo: At the Dimotika Agora
Each day we walked 15,000 to 26,000 steps (recorded on my phone). The most interesting walks were around the Plaka and Anaflotika neighborhoods. Couple of times, when our feet were heavy and tired, we hailed a taxi to go back to the hotel, even it was only 2 or 3 km distance.
More on Plaka and Anaflotika to come later.
Next Up Part 10: More Diving Deeper in Athens – Hiking in Plaka & Anafiotika
Jul 13, 2022, 12:16 pm
#22
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Join Date: Jan 2006
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SFO-ATH 34 Hour Survival on QR J Return & Al Mourjan: Deep Dive Athens During Covid
Part 10: More Diving Deeper in Athens – Hiking in Plaka & Anafiotika
After 5 nights at the Hilton, we moved to a small boutique hotel (an affiliate hotel with Marriott) named NEW Hotel (very original name but true) for another 5 nights. We preferred its location but not necessarily its funky style. Since the hotel is an affiliate of Marriott, I could get an award stay for 5 nights using points. Other than that, the hotel does not recognize Marriott Elite at all. Translation: Despite being Titanium, no upgrade, no breakfast. No problem, I didn’t expect any.
Rooms are real small. Our room faces a wall of the adjacent building a few feet away. Every morning around 4 to 5 AM, loud noises that sounded like industrial-sized trash can being dumped on a truck (there was a re-construction project nearby).
We received a complimentary voucher to a free drink at the roof top bar that we never had the opportunity to cash in (just didn’t have the time). I heard that the night view up there was delightful.
Photo: NEW Hotel, lobby floor restaurant
Photo: NEW Hotel – tight space
Photo: NEW Hotel
Some good local breakfast options are within 1 minute from hotel, such as Aiola for example.
Photo: Breakfast at Aiola, only a stone throw away from hotel. We liked it very much so we had breakfast there several times.
In early morning, a loud church bell woke us up before my own alarm.
After breakfast, we took a taxi to join some local friends for Sunday worship. After the service, we were invited to their home for lunch. It was there we tried the “real” Greek coffee! We know these friends through our church's World Outreach Ministry. This couple founded the Bible College of Athens.
Since our hotel was in the Plaka area, we frequented the surrounding area such as the whole sale markets, and Monastiraki Square area often.
One afternoon, we decided to do an extensive coverage of the Plaka and Anafiotika neighborhoods, a deep dive if you will. The area is full of uphill and downhill stretches. Not bad except for the burning sun.
Photo: Wall art in Plaka
Photo: School kids on an outing in Plaka neighborhood?
Photo: An Old Book Store
Photo: A tiny red car in the alley of Plaka neighborhood,
Photo: A residential street
Photo: Plaka neighborhood bar
Photo: Anafiotika neighborhood (rustic door)
One picture is worth a 1,000 words. I found this area to be quite interesting. I’ll let the pictures speak.
Photo: Anafiotika neighborhood (wall graffiti)
Photo: Anafiotika neighborhood (wall graffiti) narrow alley
Photo: Anafiotika neighborhood, bigger alley
Photo: Near the top of Anafiotika
Enjoyed the walking and hiking of these “old” neighborhoods. Colorful, interesting and full of history!
Next Up Part 11: Diving Deeper in Athens – More from HOHO
After 5 nights at the Hilton, we moved to a small boutique hotel (an affiliate hotel with Marriott) named NEW Hotel (very original name but true) for another 5 nights. We preferred its location but not necessarily its funky style. Since the hotel is an affiliate of Marriott, I could get an award stay for 5 nights using points. Other than that, the hotel does not recognize Marriott Elite at all. Translation: Despite being Titanium, no upgrade, no breakfast. No problem, I didn’t expect any.
Rooms are real small. Our room faces a wall of the adjacent building a few feet away. Every morning around 4 to 5 AM, loud noises that sounded like industrial-sized trash can being dumped on a truck (there was a re-construction project nearby).
We received a complimentary voucher to a free drink at the roof top bar that we never had the opportunity to cash in (just didn’t have the time). I heard that the night view up there was delightful.
Photo: NEW Hotel, lobby floor restaurant
Photo: NEW Hotel – tight space
Photo: NEW Hotel
Some good local breakfast options are within 1 minute from hotel, such as Aiola for example.
Photo: Breakfast at Aiola, only a stone throw away from hotel. We liked it very much so we had breakfast there several times.
In early morning, a loud church bell woke us up before my own alarm.
After breakfast, we took a taxi to join some local friends for Sunday worship. After the service, we were invited to their home for lunch. It was there we tried the “real” Greek coffee! We know these friends through our church's World Outreach Ministry. This couple founded the Bible College of Athens.
Since our hotel was in the Plaka area, we frequented the surrounding area such as the whole sale markets, and Monastiraki Square area often.
One afternoon, we decided to do an extensive coverage of the Plaka and Anafiotika neighborhoods, a deep dive if you will. The area is full of uphill and downhill stretches. Not bad except for the burning sun.
Photo: Wall art in Plaka
Photo: School kids on an outing in Plaka neighborhood?
Photo: An Old Book Store
Photo: A tiny red car in the alley of Plaka neighborhood,
Photo: A residential street
Photo: Plaka neighborhood bar
Photo: Anafiotika neighborhood (rustic door)
One picture is worth a 1,000 words. I found this area to be quite interesting. I’ll let the pictures speak.
Photo: Anafiotika neighborhood (wall graffiti)
Photo: Anafiotika neighborhood (wall graffiti) narrow alley
Photo: Anafiotika neighborhood, bigger alley
Photo: Near the top of Anafiotika
Enjoyed the walking and hiking of these “old” neighborhoods. Colorful, interesting and full of history!
Next Up Part 11: Diving Deeper in Athens – More from HOHO
Jul 14, 2022, 10:15 am
#23
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: SFOSJCOAK
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Posts: 7,581
SFO-ATH 34 Hour Survival on QR J Return & Al Mourjan: Deep Dive Athens During Covid
Part 11: Diving Deeper in Athens – More from HOHO
With the HOHO pass, one has access to several routes, each of which run by a different colored bus. If you know where the transfer bus stops are (pick up a map when purchase ticket), you can discover even more districts of Athens.
Photo: The Yellow and Blue Buses making a brief stop here.
Many more random photos while riding on the HOHO.
Photo: View from the bus
Photo: Pass by a high rise condos
Photo: A book store
Photo: Academy of Athens. Hop off the bus for some photo-ops
Photo: Athens: Zappeio Hall within the National Gardens. Captured with a zoom lens.
Photo: The National Library
Photo: Athens: Church of St Marina in Thissio (R) and the National Observatory of Athens (L)
Photo: Omonia Square, a very large square with a fountain.
Next Up: Part 12: Diving Deeper in Athens - Stoa of Attalos and Ancient Agora
With the HOHO pass, one has access to several routes, each of which run by a different colored bus. If you know where the transfer bus stops are (pick up a map when purchase ticket), you can discover even more districts of Athens.
Photo: The Yellow and Blue Buses making a brief stop here.
Many more random photos while riding on the HOHO.
Photo: View from the bus
Photo: Pass by a high rise condos
Photo: A book store
Photo: Academy of Athens. Hop off the bus for some photo-ops
Photo: Athens: Zappeio Hall within the National Gardens. Captured with a zoom lens.
Photo: The National Library
Photo: Athens: Church of St Marina in Thissio (R) and the National Observatory of Athens (L)
Photo: Omonia Square, a very large square with a fountain.
Next Up: Part 12: Diving Deeper in Athens - Stoa of Attalos and Ancient Agora
Jul 15, 2022, 12:33 pm
#24
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: SFOSJCOAK
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Posts: 7,581
SFO-ATH 34 Hour Survival on QR J Return & Al Mourjan: Deep Dive Athens During Covid
Part 12: Diving Deeper in Athens - Stoa of Attalos and Ancient Agora
According to info found online, The Stoa of Attalos was originally built by King Attalos II of Pergamon (159–138 B.C.), as a gift to the Athenians in appreciation of the time he spent in Athens studying under the philosopher Karneades. What he gave the city was an elaborate stoa, a large two-storeyed double colonnade with rows of shops behind the colonnades. The building was made of local materials, marble for the facade and columns, and limestone for the walls; it measures 116 meters long and had 42 shops in all. The Stoa became the major commercial building or shopping center in the Agora and was used for centuries, from its construction in around 150 B.C. until its destruction at the hands of the Herulians in A.D. 267.
The current building was reconstructed from 1952 to 1956 by the American School of Classical Studies at Athens and currently houses the Museum of the Ancient Agora
Photo: Athens: Stao of Attalos within the Ancient Agora with Mount Lycabettus in left background
Photo: Inside of Stoa of Attalos, Ancient Agora (B&W photo)
Photos: Inside of Stoa of Attalos (B&W)
Photos: Inside of Stoa of Attalos (B&W)
Photo: The ruins in Ancient Agora (foreground)
Photo: The ruins in Ancient Agora (foreground)
Photo: The Temple of Hephaestus in the Ancient Agora
Photo: The Church of the Holy Apostles. A tiny church inside the grounds of Ancient Agora
More good eats can be found all over the Plaka main streets and small alleys. We loved grilled & fried seafood. Check out this combo of salmon, white fish and calamari. The portions were too large and more than enough to share between 2 people.
Photo: Grilled seafood with pitta at Quick Pitta. Staff wore masks. They didn’t check our Covid pass.
Photo: Good eats at the fish market. Aris Taverna for seafood and a cold beer dubbed FIX.
A very casual place with tasty seafood. But beware that they allowed smoking here. In part I think it was because the tables were set in a large covered entrance to the Fish Market (semi indoor/outdoor).
Dining outdoor was popular in Old Town Plaka. They didn’t bother to check Covid pass (guess it was only for indoor dining). Staff wore masks. Most restaurants were packed at night.
Night time outdoor dining in Plaka was an enduring impression of Greece that I had before I ever set foot in this country.
Next Up: Part 13: Day Trip to the Islands of Hydra, Poros and Aegina.
According to info found online, The Stoa of Attalos was originally built by King Attalos II of Pergamon (159–138 B.C.), as a gift to the Athenians in appreciation of the time he spent in Athens studying under the philosopher Karneades. What he gave the city was an elaborate stoa, a large two-storeyed double colonnade with rows of shops behind the colonnades. The building was made of local materials, marble for the facade and columns, and limestone for the walls; it measures 116 meters long and had 42 shops in all. The Stoa became the major commercial building or shopping center in the Agora and was used for centuries, from its construction in around 150 B.C. until its destruction at the hands of the Herulians in A.D. 267.
The current building was reconstructed from 1952 to 1956 by the American School of Classical Studies at Athens and currently houses the Museum of the Ancient Agora
Photo: Athens: Stao of Attalos within the Ancient Agora with Mount Lycabettus in left background
Photo: Inside of Stoa of Attalos, Ancient Agora (B&W photo)
Photos: Inside of Stoa of Attalos (B&W)
Photos: Inside of Stoa of Attalos (B&W)
Photo: The ruins in Ancient Agora (foreground)
Photo: The ruins in Ancient Agora (foreground)
Photo: The Temple of Hephaestus in the Ancient Agora
Photo: The Church of the Holy Apostles. A tiny church inside the grounds of Ancient Agora
More good eats can be found all over the Plaka main streets and small alleys. We loved grilled & fried seafood. Check out this combo of salmon, white fish and calamari. The portions were too large and more than enough to share between 2 people.
Photo: Grilled seafood with pitta at Quick Pitta. Staff wore masks. They didn’t check our Covid pass.
Photo: Good eats at the fish market. Aris Taverna for seafood and a cold beer dubbed FIX.
A very casual place with tasty seafood. But beware that they allowed smoking here. In part I think it was because the tables were set in a large covered entrance to the Fish Market (semi indoor/outdoor).
Dining outdoor was popular in Old Town Plaka. They didn’t bother to check Covid pass (guess it was only for indoor dining). Staff wore masks. Most restaurants were packed at night.
Night time outdoor dining in Plaka was an enduring impression of Greece that I had before I ever set foot in this country.
Next Up: Part 13: Day Trip to the Islands of Hydra, Poros and Aegina.
Jul 15, 2022, 5:37 pm
#25
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: MKE
Programs: DL 2 MM
Posts: 905
Great report and pics (well, your pics are always great).
I agree with you on the HOHO bus. Yeah, kinda touristy but they are a great way to get around in certain cities, and something good to do when you arrive too early to check in to get oriented.
Keep the pics coming please!
I agree with you on the HOHO bus. Yeah, kinda touristy but they are a great way to get around in certain cities, and something good to do when you arrive too early to check in to get oriented.
Keep the pics coming please!
Jul 16, 2022, 12:04 pm
#26
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: SFOSJCOAK
Programs: AA-EXP & 1MM+, AS, MR-LTT, HH Gold
Posts: 7,581
SFO-ATH 34 Hour Survival on QR J Return & Al Mourjan: Deep Dive Athens During Covid
Part 13: Day Trip to the Islands of Hydra, Poros and Aegina.
After a few days in Athens, we went to the islands by a large ferry (they called it a cruise ship). The day trip from Athens to the islands of Hydra, Poros and Aegina was quite memorable.
Reports of recent increases in Covid cases in Cretes, Mykonos and Santorini deterred any idea of going to those islands at that time. Besides, we did visit Santorini 3 years ago. So instead of going to the more high profile islands, we booked a 1 day "cruise" to visit Hydra, Poros and Aegina from Piraeus Port.
We purchased the tickets from a local Travel Agent in Plaka in the spur of the moment (was going to book it online). We were doing a slow walk through the area. A lady was playing with her baby outside the door of this travel agency. We said hello, and she did same. She asked did we want to go to “cruise”? Long story short, she was the owner/agent of the agency. She prepared the Covid doc needed for the “cruise”, the PLF and gave us a 10% discount. This shelfed my original idea of booking this online!
Early next morning at 7:00am, we were picked up by a tour bus at our hotel and drove us to the Piraeus Port. From there we boarded a ship (small "cruise" ship). At boarding, a signed Health Declaration was checked. Masks were to be worn at all times on board the ship. Many people forgot about doing that after the initial hour. We were on the open deck, so it would not matter.
Photo: Boarding our ship at Piraeus Port.
Photo: This was the ship (captured at Hydra dock) for our day trip.
Photo: On board the ship.
Photo: On board the ship.
Photo: Ship left Piraeus Port onto the Saronic Gulf.
Photo: A monster yacht.
Photo: A sleek looking yacht.
The first port of call was Hydra. Hydra is one of the Saronic Islands of Greece, located in the Aegean, between the Saronic and the Argolic Gulf. It is separated from the Peloponnese by the narrow Hydra Gulf. The island is very cosmopolitan and modern. It was discovered by a band of artists in the 1960s who had been attracted there by its spectacular, steep-sided port. Even today, artists and movie stars visit the island and Hydra is considered an artists’ colony. Traditional and wonderful architecture, absence of vehicles, the hospitality of the inhabitants and an exciting nightlife contribute to the high popularity and incredible charm of Hydra. I found this description from reading a Greek web site.
I had the impression that the island does allow utility vehicles such as limited number of small trucks, police and ambulance vehicles etc. I could be wrong.
Photo: Arriving Hydra, there are more boats than houses.
Photo: Historical Museum of Hydra
https://photos.smugmug.com/RTW-and-M...MG_7341-X2.jpg
Photo: Means of transportation.
Photo: Means of transportation.
The island is not only known of its beauty, but also because it played an important historical role during the Greek War of Independence in 1821. Hydra, during the 19th century, was a formidable maritime power and when the Greek Revolution commenced, it contributed all of its ships in the fight. Although the island takes its name from ancient springs, it is now dry. While Hydra previously had wells, they were blocked by seismic activity around the mid-20th century. Today, fresh water is imported by boat from the mainland.
Photo: Hydra is tourism centric
Photo: Harbor & Marina of Hydra
Photo: Spotted a hydrofoil, a high speed ferry.
We headed back to the ship per schedule. As soon as set sail for Poros, we were served with a simple lunch. Passengers queued up to get their own food. The queue was orderly, and we ate in the dining room. Each passenger self-served by picking up own food & drink and find a table to eat. The dining room was big and can accommodate everyone.
Photo: The “cruise” included a lunch on board the ship. It was simple but good. Tasty chicken drum stick, slaw, rice and a piece of bread!
We did enjoy the brief visit to Hydra. Now looked forward to Poros.
Next Up: Part 14 - The Island of Poros
After a few days in Athens, we went to the islands by a large ferry (they called it a cruise ship). The day trip from Athens to the islands of Hydra, Poros and Aegina was quite memorable.
Reports of recent increases in Covid cases in Cretes, Mykonos and Santorini deterred any idea of going to those islands at that time. Besides, we did visit Santorini 3 years ago. So instead of going to the more high profile islands, we booked a 1 day "cruise" to visit Hydra, Poros and Aegina from Piraeus Port.
We purchased the tickets from a local Travel Agent in Plaka in the spur of the moment (was going to book it online). We were doing a slow walk through the area. A lady was playing with her baby outside the door of this travel agency. We said hello, and she did same. She asked did we want to go to “cruise”? Long story short, she was the owner/agent of the agency. She prepared the Covid doc needed for the “cruise”, the PLF and gave us a 10% discount. This shelfed my original idea of booking this online!
Early next morning at 7:00am, we were picked up by a tour bus at our hotel and drove us to the Piraeus Port. From there we boarded a ship (small "cruise" ship). At boarding, a signed Health Declaration was checked. Masks were to be worn at all times on board the ship. Many people forgot about doing that after the initial hour. We were on the open deck, so it would not matter.
Photo: Boarding our ship at Piraeus Port.
Photo: This was the ship (captured at Hydra dock) for our day trip.
Photo: On board the ship.
Photo: On board the ship.
Photo: Ship left Piraeus Port onto the Saronic Gulf.
Photo: A monster yacht.
Photo: A sleek looking yacht.
The first port of call was Hydra. Hydra is one of the Saronic Islands of Greece, located in the Aegean, between the Saronic and the Argolic Gulf. It is separated from the Peloponnese by the narrow Hydra Gulf. The island is very cosmopolitan and modern. It was discovered by a band of artists in the 1960s who had been attracted there by its spectacular, steep-sided port. Even today, artists and movie stars visit the island and Hydra is considered an artists’ colony. Traditional and wonderful architecture, absence of vehicles, the hospitality of the inhabitants and an exciting nightlife contribute to the high popularity and incredible charm of Hydra. I found this description from reading a Greek web site.
I had the impression that the island does allow utility vehicles such as limited number of small trucks, police and ambulance vehicles etc. I could be wrong.
Photo: Arriving Hydra, there are more boats than houses.
Photo: Historical Museum of Hydra
https://photos.smugmug.com/RTW-and-M...MG_7341-X2.jpg
Photo: Means of transportation.
Photo: Means of transportation.
The island is not only known of its beauty, but also because it played an important historical role during the Greek War of Independence in 1821. Hydra, during the 19th century, was a formidable maritime power and when the Greek Revolution commenced, it contributed all of its ships in the fight. Although the island takes its name from ancient springs, it is now dry. While Hydra previously had wells, they were blocked by seismic activity around the mid-20th century. Today, fresh water is imported by boat from the mainland.
Photo: Hydra is tourism centric
Photo: Harbor & Marina of Hydra
Photo: Spotted a hydrofoil, a high speed ferry.
We headed back to the ship per schedule. As soon as set sail for Poros, we were served with a simple lunch. Passengers queued up to get their own food. The queue was orderly, and we ate in the dining room. Each passenger self-served by picking up own food & drink and find a table to eat. The dining room was big and can accommodate everyone.
Photo: The “cruise” included a lunch on board the ship. It was simple but good. Tasty chicken drum stick, slaw, rice and a piece of bread!
We did enjoy the brief visit to Hydra. Now looked forward to Poros.
Next Up: Part 14 - The Island of Poros
Jul 16, 2022, 12:08 pm
#27
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: SFOSJCOAK
Programs: AA-EXP & 1MM+, AS, MR-LTT, HH Gold
Posts: 7,581
Great report and pics (well, your pics are always great).
I agree with you on the HOHO bus. Yeah, kinda touristy but they are a great way to get around in certain cities, and something good to do when you arrive too early to check in to get oriented.
Keep the pics coming please!
I agree with you on the HOHO bus. Yeah, kinda touristy but they are a great way to get around in certain cities, and something good to do when you arrive too early to check in to get oriented.
Keep the pics coming please!
Just posted another segment of TR. Enjoy!
About HOHO in cities around the world: I noted in some cities, the buses are separately owned and not interchangeable with the same ticket. So it is refreshing that Athens HOHO buses do that! Kudos to them.
Jul 16, 2022, 1:15 pm
#28
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 1,278
This trip report is wonderful. I've never considered Athens, as we're normally somewhere in Germany, Tbilisi or Croatia, but this report and your photos have made me start looking at Athens for possibly Oct/Nov 2023.
Always love the Qsuites and have spent about 15 hours at one time in the AL Mourjan lounge coming home from Baghdad. Great lounge, but anything more than 8 hours turns into a mind fog.
Always love the Qsuites and have spent about 15 hours at one time in the AL Mourjan lounge coming home from Baghdad. Great lounge, but anything more than 8 hours turns into a mind fog.
Jul 17, 2022, 12:46 pm
#30
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: SFOSJCOAK
Programs: AA-EXP & 1MM+, AS, MR-LTT, HH Gold
Posts: 7,581
SFO-ATH 34 Hour Survival on QR J Return & Al Mourjan: Deep Dive Athens During Covid
Part 14 The Island of Poros
Next, the ferry sailed to the adjacent island of Poros. From what I read, this tiny island was the playground of Greek Nobel laureate Giorgos Serferis and Henry Miller. Poros’ neoclassical buildings ascend the town’s hill like seats in an amphitheater. Walking through the narrow alleyways of the main town, among whitewashed houses wrapped in bougainvillea, you’ll travel back in time. Want to dig deeper? Visit the Archaeological Museum in Koryzi Square to take in exhibits from the Temple of Poseidon, ancient Troezen and Methana. Unfortunately we didn't have time for that. As seen from images below, Poros is also a tourist centric island.
Photo: Heading toward Poros with Hydra in the background.
Photo: The Port of Poros and its clock tower.
Photo: Colorful water front of Poros.
Photo: The town of Poros.
Photo: Like other islands, tourism is the main bread & butter.
Photo: Tavernas line the waterfront street.
Poros: Small square full of tavernas.
Poros: Hillside residences
Poros: Poros Port where all ferries dock.
Photo: The lighthouse in Poros.
Seemed like in a blink of an eye, we had to returned to the ship and set sail for the next island of Aegina.
Next Up: Part 15 - The Island of Aegina
Next, the ferry sailed to the adjacent island of Poros. From what I read, this tiny island was the playground of Greek Nobel laureate Giorgos Serferis and Henry Miller. Poros’ neoclassical buildings ascend the town’s hill like seats in an amphitheater. Walking through the narrow alleyways of the main town, among whitewashed houses wrapped in bougainvillea, you’ll travel back in time. Want to dig deeper? Visit the Archaeological Museum in Koryzi Square to take in exhibits from the Temple of Poseidon, ancient Troezen and Methana. Unfortunately we didn't have time for that. As seen from images below, Poros is also a tourist centric island.
Photo: Heading toward Poros with Hydra in the background.
Photo: The Port of Poros and its clock tower.
Photo: Colorful water front of Poros.
Photo: The town of Poros.
Photo: Like other islands, tourism is the main bread & butter.
Photo: Tavernas line the waterfront street.
Poros: Small square full of tavernas.
Poros: Hillside residences
Poros: Poros Port where all ferries dock.
Photo: The lighthouse in Poros.
Seemed like in a blink of an eye, we had to returned to the ship and set sail for the next island of Aegina.
Next Up: Part 15 - The Island of Aegina