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Below Average Biz Class to the Above Average Balkans

Below Average Biz Class to the Above Average Balkans

Old Aug 9, 2019, 7:47 am
  #16  
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If you think Kotor was bad with those two ships, be aware those are both relatively small in today's cruise ship terms. Just one of the bigger cruise ships there would cause even worse crowds.
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Old Aug 9, 2019, 9:52 am
  #17  
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Oh, those bloody Cruise ships. I could rant on that subject for hours and hours!!

Valletta (Malta) usually gets 3 at a time in season, and they’re the HUGE ones. The crowds (no, make that hordes) following the umbrella/sign bearer make the City almost impassable at times.

I may have some photos in my MLA TRs in my signature!
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Old Aug 9, 2019, 10:39 am
  #18  
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Originally Posted by wrp96
If you think Kotor was bad with those two ships, be aware those are both relatively small in today's cruise ship terms. Just one of the bigger cruise ships there would cause even worse crowds.
Originally Posted by T8191
Oh, those bloody Cruise ships. I could rant on that subject for hours and hours!!

Valletta (Malta) usually gets 3 at a time in season, and they’re the HUGE ones. The crowds (no, make that hordes) following the umbrella/sign bearer make the City almost impassable at times.

I may have some photos in my MLA TRs in my signature!
Our visit to Kotor absolutely validated our decision not to cruise this area and do the self-drive instead. We were fairly lucky with the cruise calendar in Dubrovnik and Split as well.
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Old Aug 10, 2019, 5:26 am
  #19  
 
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That climb looked worth it for the fantastic photos at the top!
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Old Aug 10, 2019, 1:43 pm
  #20  
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Originally Posted by nequine
That climb looked worth it for the fantastic photos at the top!
It was - and good exercise too!
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Old Aug 10, 2019, 2:05 pm
  #21  
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6/4 – Four Borders

We were at breakfast when they opened at 07:00 and checked out by 07:50, on our way to Split. We decided to go via Mostar in Bosnia as it looked like an interesting and different place to stop on the way. It’s a more circuitous route, but we had the time and the freedom of a rental car to do it.

The GPS took us through Neum, which is a tiny enclave of Bosnia on the coast which bisects Croatia and leaves the Dubrovnik area technically cut off by land from the remainder of the country. A new bridge between the Peljesac peninsula and the Croatian mainland north of the Bosnian enclave is being built by China which will rectify this issue in a few years. In the meantime, unless you go a different route to the east of Dubrovnik, you will pass through two border crossings and then head inland to cross into Bosnia again toward Mostar at Metkovic.

None of the borders had any long waits and we arrived in Mostar around 10:30. We found a place to park for 50kn (around $7.50) for the day and walked into the old town area. Mostar has an interesting history, which you can look up, but is best known for its “old” bridge (which was rebuilt after being mortared in the 1990s war). Many of the original stones were found in the river and used in the reconstruction paid for mostly by Turkey.




Mostar was crowded with day-trippers as it’s a popular tour from both Dubrovnik and Split (and Sarajevo for that matter). We had a browse around the market, which was a bit reminiscent of Istanbul. We then watched a guy collect money and then jump off the bridge (a local tradition), much to my wife’s annoyance, as she didn’t see the point.




I decided to climb the mosque minaret so I could get some good pictures. She decided to sit and have a Turkish coffee.





By that point, we’d had enough of Mostar’s crowds and beggars, so we headed back toward Croatia. On the way we stopped at Pocitelj, a stone village built on a hill with some nice views at the top of its old tower.






Just before the border, we stopped at Kravica waterfall which was easy to access and very impressive.




Then we took the toll road from Bosnia over the border into Croatia and continued on the fantastic highway (also Chinese built) with long tunnels and scenic bridges all the way to the Split exit. The tolls were payable by cash or credit card. It was really a pleasant drive despite the on and off rainstorms.

We reached the Le Meridien just outside Split around 15:30 and checked in. We were given a room with a nice view of the marina and islands. This is a conference hotel so it’s fairly large and busy. I understand that it will be undergoing a major renovation this offseason as well. Parking was available right outside and was complimentary for me as a Titanium member (not sure if this applies to all guests or not).






We ordered an Uber to take us into Split. It was 120kn ($18) plus tip. We struck up a conversation with our Uber driver, who lived near the hotel. He offered to drive us back and forth during our stay for 100kn ($15) all-in so we got his WhatsApp info and just contacted him directly when we needed him.

We browsed around Split, which is built on the site of Roman Emperor Diocletian’s Palace.





We took a walk out and up to the old Jewish Cemetery, which offers great views back toward the city and the marina.






Back down in town, we found a small local place for dinner called Boom!. Fish and seafood platter for two for 200 KN ($30) – don’t mind if we do. Plus cheap house wine – why not?



We watched the sunset and had our guy drive us back around 9pm to the Le Meridien. It was a long day of driving and walking.

Up next: Split up in Split
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Old Aug 11, 2019, 12:09 pm
  #22  
 
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About 50K for Business OW is a good deal. We used 75K from Avios for a OW Business ticket on Air Italy from Milan to New York; the worst Business class I ever took vs. 25K in economy; a good deal.

However what did you pay in fees? We paid $200 same as in economy.

I was in Dubrovnik in 1972. We stayed at the Excelsior which one can see in your picture. What i liked is that it is on the ocean and one can swim off the platform.

Was it easy to drive in Croatia / Bosnia? Was it expensive as it was an automatic + one way drop off I assume.

Thanks.
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Old Aug 11, 2019, 2:31 pm
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Bretteee
About 50K for Business OW is a good deal. We used 75K from Avios for a OW Business ticket on Air Italy from Milan to New York; the worst Business class I ever took vs. 25K in economy; a good deal.

However what did you pay in fees? We paid $200 same as in economy.

I was in Dubrovnik in 1972. We stayed at the Excelsior which one can see in your picture. What i liked is that it is on the ocean and one can swim off the platform.

Was it easy to drive in Croatia / Bosnia? Was it expensive as it was an automatic + one way drop off I assume.

Thanks.
We paid $235 total for the two of us in taxes and fees for the one way Iberia tickets. The rental car was €240 all in including taxes and liability insurance (liability is required but the CDW was waived via having Amex which is primary CDW overseas with some cards). That was for 7 days driving one way and included the green card needed to cross borders. I booked it through Priceline.
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Old Aug 12, 2019, 10:28 am
  #24  
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6/5 – Local Flavor

We had breakfast at the Le Meridien restaurant (there’s no lounge). It was good, but the selection and quality was not as good as the Dubrovnik Hilton. Our “Uber” picked us up at 08:30 and drove us into Split.

We started by touring the Palace basement. It was nice and empty at that hour. The only hazard was avoiding the pigeon droppings.






Then we split up for an hour and I went to visit the newly opened Game of Thrones museum. It was overpriced but had some cool props and models.






We then reconnected and walked a few blocks to the archeology museum which had some interesting artifacts, both inside and outside.





We decided to have lunch right on the Riva, even though it was a touristy place. We are, after all, tourists. The seafood platter and wine were good, even if we were paying extra for the location.



After a busy morning, we were ready for a rest. We texted our ride and he brought us back to the Le Meridien around 13:00. We changed and went out to the beach, although like most beaches in Croatia, it was rocky rather than sandy (water shoes are a must). The water was still chilly but refreshing. We napped and lazed around for a few hours. The hotel had complementary towels, beach chairs and umbrellas for guests.




We decided to stay local that night and went to Konoba Nikola, a highly rated restaurant according to the review sites (apparently the President of Croatia has eaten there). We drove there as it was only 5 minutes from the Le Meridien. The food was excellent. Fresh whole fish and shellfish – we got a good look at the available food before they cooked it.




After dinner we drove back to the hotel and had nice a walk along the marina before turning in.

Up next: Blues and Booze
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Old Aug 13, 2019, 7:02 am
  #25  
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6/6 – Island Time

We were up at 06:45 and had another good breakfast at the Le Meridien. Our “Uber” came for us at 7:45 as we had arranged via WhatsApp to take us into Split.

I booked an all day island tour with a company named Summer Blues. I’m not sure what happened frankly, as I had meant to book a 5 island tour on a fast boat, but somehow booked a catamaran “booze cruise.” This became apparent as we sailed away from Split marina at 9am and the bar was open.




Our first stop was for some swimming off the boat near the island of Brac. The water was cold but I got in anyway.




Then we motored on to Hvar Town and everybody got off for about 2.5 hours. My wife wasn’t too thrilled with the booze cruise aspect but she liked Hvar. We split up for a bit so I could hike up to the fortress and get some views back down over the island and marina.





We had a light lunch at an outdoor café in Hvar. The weather was amazing at this point. We barely saw another cloud the entire rest of the trip.



The boat picked everyone up around 3pm and we made another swim stop near Brac about halfway back. We ended up sailing toward Split and the dance party started. It was pretty funny to watch all these drunk German 20-somethings dance the Macarena, etc, but it was chilly with the temperature dropping and the wind whipping up.




This is one of those tour bookings that I will always hear about from my wife. But that’s OK – stuff happens.

After we got back to Split, we went back to the same restaurant from the first night – Boom! - and had our same seafood platter and wine. After gelato, our “Uber” came and picked us up for the last time. If anyone wants his contact info, feel free to PM me.

That night, we were unfortunately awoken by a phone call around midnight from our 17 year old. She had got into a fender bender and was upset. She was fine, but the car was not. We were up half the night dealing with the insurance, etc.

Up next: Real Croatia
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Old Aug 13, 2019, 1:19 pm
  #26  
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6/7 – To Zadar By Car

Despite our late night, we were up at 6am. We had a quick breakfast after packing up and checked out of the Le Meridien. We were on the road to Zadar by 8am. It was an easy drive on the highway and took about 2 hours total.

We found our Airbnb and got directed into a tiny parking spot by the mother of the apartment owner. She was still cleaning the apartment but let us leave our bags while we went to explore Zadar. The Airbnb was a few yards from the pedestrian bridge into old town Zadar and pretty nice for $80+fees for one night.






The views from the 10th floor apartment were great as well.



It’s a great little town. Lots of locals around unlike Dubrovnik and Split. We felt like we were in a more authentically local and less touristy place. There were school kids displaying art work and little festivals all around the squares in old town. We walked down to the Roman Forum and just enjoyed the ambience.






We stopped for lunch at a little place called La Gavun. We had a great charcuterie plate with local meats and cheeses along with some excellent wine.






My wife then found some good prices on souvenirs at the local shops. Then we went back to the apartment to nap and make some calls about the insurance, etc. related to last night’s daughter car issues.

We ended up going back to the same little restaurant for some more wine and appetizers. We bought some wine from there as we can’t get it at home (I checked online). Then we found a place with you guessed it, a whole fish platter.




By this time, it was close to sunset, so we walked over to the Greeting to the Sun and the Sea Organ to watch the sunset.





We had an early morning planned so we didn’t linger too late, but we enjoyed our day and night in Zadar and I highly recommend it if you can add it to your Croatia itinerary. One day and night is enough to get a feel for the place and see the old town.

Next Up: Lakes and Ljubljana
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Old Aug 14, 2019, 7:52 am
  #27  
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6/8 – Wakey Lakey

We were up early and grabbed coffee nearby before getting on the road at 06:00. Our goal was to make it to Plitvice Lakes National Park by 08:00 as I had pre-booked tickets there.

Traffic was light, even on the back roads, and we made it by 07:45. Parking was pretty easy at that hour and we walked to the entrance. We showed our tickets but they wouldn’t let us in until 08:00 on the dot. This was despite the fact that others who bought walk-up tickets could just walk right in.



There are several different routes you can take through the park, including the lower lakes, the upper lakes and both. We started at the lower lakes “Entrance 1” where we parked and had the place relatively to ourselves at first. We saw the main waterfall, Veliki Slap.




We walked along the pathways beside the lower lakes and there had been plenty of rain over the previous few weeks so the waterfalls were all flowing.






We took a boat across one of the larger lakes and started to walk the upper lakes.




It was crazy crowded and not enjoyable, so we turned around and took a short boat ride back to the lower lakes. From there, we took the bus to the start of the upper trail which would lead us back to the parking lot. The upper train was nice and empty, but we could see how crowded it was back where we were walking just a couple of hours before.






We left around 10:00 and the line to get in was really long. We were very pleased we got there early.

We drove to Ljublana and hit a bit of traffic but nothing too bad. We got to the Intercontinental around 13:45 and checked in. I was using my free night from the IHG credit card. They had parking for 16 Euros in a garage across the street, but I decided to spring for the 30 Euros at the hotel as I wanted to be able to leave early the next day and as it was going to be Sunday, I wasn’t sure whether the other garage would be open/accessible.

The room was very modern and had lots of technology. We were given a room on the highest floor and a welcome amenity of fruit.





We got settled and walked down to the old town area. It was just a few blocks from the IC.





We found a place to grab some food and wine as we hadn’t eaten anything except a protein bar all day. We took the funicular up to the castle and explored that for a while. Of course, I had to go up the tower to the top for the views of the town and the Julian Alps in the background.






After we came back down the funicular, we browsed the shops in old town and then walked back to the IC.





The hotel had a highly regarded restaurant so we decided to go there for dinner. Unfortunately, we were the only people there and still were ignored for about 15 minutes by the waiter and maitre’d. We left, but they insisted on charging us for the water we had been drinking for 15 minutes. I got the front desk to remove the charge when we checked out.

Instead, we walked back into town and found a good fish restaurant called Vino + Pibe.



Then we went to Romantica, which is rated as the best gelato in Ljubljana and it did not disappoint.

We enjoyed our taste of Ljubljana, but we decided to get an early start the next day and make a detour to Lake Bled rather than go directly to Zagreb.

Up next: Bled and the Last Border Crossing
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Old Aug 15, 2019, 6:41 am
  #28  
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6/9 – From Bled to Zagreb

As we did not have any included hotel breakfast, we walked down to a place called Kaverna Rog which was highly rated by travel blogs. It did not disappoint. The food and coffee were excellent.



We checked out of the IC and drove up to Lake Bled. We found parking by the hockey arena and had a nice stroll around the lake for an hour or so. I decided not to hike up to the castle as my wife wasn’t up for it. It was a beautiful morning and the crowds had not yet arrived.






When we left, the line of traffic to get into Bled was almost all the way back to the motorway. The Croatian border formalities only took about 10 minutes so we decided to stop at Samobor, a small town near Zagreb. Unfortunately, there was not much to see there so we moved on and arrived at the Westin Zagreb by 14:00. We got upgraded to a large suite as a Titanium. It had weird old furniture but the A/C was nice and cool.







My wife settled in while I drove over to the Hotel Panorama and returned our car at the Sixt location there. An Uber back to the Westin cost all of $2.

We walked down to English square to catch the end of an antique show. Then we headed toward upper (old) town and browsed around.






We had a late lunch (our usual charcuterie and wine) at a restaurant in new town off the main square. It was getting hot by them so we headed back to the Westin for a nap. We ended up walking to Gallo, a nearby restaurant, for dinner and really enjoyed our fish and wine.


In fact, we enjoyed it so much, we made a reservation for the next night as well.

Up next: Broken Relationships (not ours)
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Old Aug 16, 2019, 10:43 am
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Great pics in the parts you posted

Originally Posted by pjs


What were all the folk waiting for? Some sort of light show?
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Old Aug 17, 2019, 3:04 pm
  #30  
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Originally Posted by nequine
Great pics in the parts you posted

What were all the folk waiting for? Some sort of light show?
Yes. It’s hard to see the lights in the picture but the installation takes in energy from the sunlight during the day which powers the evening light show.
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