We were at breakfast when they opened at 07:00 and checked out by 07:50, on our way to Split. We decided to go via Mostar in Bosnia as it looked like an interesting and different place to stop on the way. It’s a more circuitous route, but we had the time and the freedom of a rental car to do it.

The GPS took us through Neum, which is a tiny enclave of Bosnia on the coast which bisects Croatia and leaves the Dubrovnik area technically cut off by land from the remainder of the country. A new bridge between the Peljesac peninsula and the Croatian mainland north of the Bosnian enclave is being built by China which will rectify this issue in a few years. In the meantime, unless you go a different route to the east of Dubrovnik, you will pass through two border crossings and then head inland to cross into Bosnia again toward Mostar at Metkovic.

None of the borders had any long waits and we arrived in Mostar around 10:30. We found a place to park for 50kn (around $7.50) for the day and walked into the old town area. Mostar has an interesting history, which you can look up, but is best known for its “old” bridge (which was rebuilt after being mortared in the 1990s war). Many of the original stones were found in the river and used in the reconstruction paid for mostly by Turkey.




Mostar was crowded with day-trippers as it’s a popular tour from both Dubrovnik and Split (and Sarajevo for that matter). We had a browse around the market, which was a bit reminiscent of Istanbul. We then watched a guy collect money and then jump off the bridge (a local tradition), much to my wife’s annoyance, as she didn’t see the point.




I decided to climb the mosque minaret so I could get some good pictures. She decided to sit and have a Turkish coffee.





By that point, we’d had enough of Mostar’s crowds and beggars, so we headed back toward Croatia. On the way we stopped at Pocitelj, a stone village built on a hill with some nice views at the top of its old tower.






Just before the border, we stopped at Kravica waterfall which was easy to access and very impressive.




Then we took the toll road from Bosnia over the border into Croatia and continued on the fantastic highway (also Chinese built) with long tunnels and scenic bridges all the way to the Split exit. The tolls were payable by cash or credit card. It was really a pleasant drive despite the on and off rainstorms.

We reached the Le Meridien just outside Split around 15:30 and checked in. We were given a room with a nice view of the marina and islands. This is a conference hotel so it’s fairly large and busy. I understand that it will be undergoing a major renovation this offseason as well. Parking was available right outside and was complimentary for me as a Titanium member (not sure if this applies to all guests or not).






We ordered an Uber to take us into Split. It was 120kn ($18) plus tip. We struck up a conversation with our Uber driver, who lived near the hotel. He offered to drive us back and forth during our stay for 100kn ($15) all-in so we got his WhatsApp info and just contacted him directly when we needed him.

We browsed around Split, which is built on the site of Roman Emperor Diocletian’s Palace.





We took a walk out and up to the old Jewish Cemetery, which offers great views back toward the city and the marina.






Back down in town, we found a small local place for dinner called Boom!. Fish and seafood platter for two for 200 KN ($30) – don’t mind if we do. Plus cheap house wine – why not?



We watched the sunset and had our guy drive us back around 9pm to the Le Meridien. It was a long day of driving and walking.

Up next: Split up in Split