The Comprehensive Chile VI
Dec 2, 2003, 6:10 pm
#1
FlyerTalk Evangelist
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Over the Bay Bridge, CA
Programs: Jumbo mas
Posts: 38,708
The Comprehensive Chile VI
I have just decided to number each part in succession, even though they dont necessarily take place on the same trip. This one takes place in November, 2003.
The prior 5 reports are: (These also contain some of the LanChile service notes I have not repeated - things are substantially similar if not better.)
http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/Forum81/HTML/003368.html
http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/Forum81/HTML/003369.html
http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/Forum81/HTML/003370.html
http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/Forum81/HTML/003371.html
http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/Forum81/HTML/003544.html
Some initial thoughts and comments. I had never been to Chile until November, 2001. I just returned from my 6th trip, and will be taking my 7th in 2 weeks. It will also be the longest trip Ive ever taken as an adult. My first trip was only to Santiago for a long weekend mileage run just to see a new place I was curious of, and I was hooked.
For my folks 40th anniversary, I gave them basically two J/C tickets anywhere. For months they didnt ever make up their minds. And so when the discussion of Thanksgiving came up and no one had any brilliant ideas, I had a thought.
26 Nov - SFO/LAX - UA. The day before Thanksgiving - SFO a breeze. Flight early. I checked my bags only to LAX. (My SFO/LAX/SFO was on a different paid UA ticket. The LAX/SCL was an AS award on LA [LanChile].) My checked luggage made an earlier flight and was already at LAX upon my arrival (after looking at the carousel spin and spin and spin in anxious anticipation as my luggage wasnt on it). I then walked over to the Bradley terminal where the old folks were waiting.
Check-in was fairly quick and friendly, and now the terminal has a premium security line - which is great because the past several times Ive been through there the security lines were horrendous. This day, none of the lines were bad. The shared lounge is ample, but not special. Staff is very polite. For the first time in my experience, my Lan plane had a real gate.
Few things make me feel as good as walking into an LA A340 and settling down in my row 1 seat. For complete service notes of the F service, this flight was substantially similar to previous trips, which can be read in some of the other links. But here are a few additional details. I immediately recognized one of the F flight attendants, and she remembered me from a year ago and immediately opened her arms to hug me. She even remembered details of my previous trip. Food was very good, and similar in courses to prior trips. Without going into the whole menu, I had caviar with Taittinger Comtes de Champagne, which is very good, along with some assorted other appetizers that were on the cart (such as steamed lobster). Then I had a little salad, and skipped the soup course. The entree selections didnt appear stellar, but the steak was just great. I had a piece of cheese from that course, with some port, and ate a touch of a marginal berry tart.
The new wine list is very good, and in fact, contains the best wine Ive ever had on LA - a Sea blend ($47 in the duty free catalog and a good chunk more retail) - a Mondavi / Chadwick joint venture. [I tried a total of 4 of the wines, out of approximately 8 or 9 choices.]
One nice thing about flying on LA is that curtains pose no threat to anyones national security, and the F cabin gets very dark. The fact that there are only 5 seats means that with 2 flight attendants, service is very personal and attentive, but that its hard to score an award, let alone a paid seat at certain times. My parents were 2 rows back in the J cabin. (No, there werent 3 available award seats in either cabin for the entire itinerary, and a max of 1 in F.) Their service in the J cabin was very good. Their food was ok to very good, with similar entrees, but different appetizers, a few less wines to choose from, and so on. They thoroughly enjoyed the flight.
There is then a snack service prior to landing in LIM, and then a breakfast prior to landing @ SCL. I had the snack (pate of foie gras, then with another meat dish. The other selections didnt seem appealing.) I skipped breakfast. The flight was an absolute pleasure.
Arriving at SCL is also a pleasure, after leaving the third world of LAX. Luggage arrives quickly, immigration lines are usually not long, and customs takes just the time for them to X-ray the baggage (which is usually just coming out about when you get to the carousel). Negotiating a cab is usually quick (but for the uninitiated its just as well to go to the booth.
Once again, I stayed at the Sheraton / San Cristobal Tower. The hotel sent the folks fruit, chocolates, champagne and wine. [Part was for their anniversary, and part, I believe, was my platinum amenity.] The Tower choice of amenity remains a booklet they hand you, with choices of wines, pisco (in the Easter Island bottle), a few other things, or 500 points. The pisco makes a nice gift, and so thats what I got. They also sent a beautiful fruit and chocolate display to the room. People may have other particular hotels they like, but this place treats me right time and time again, and even though the location isnt perfect, its close enough.
We toured around on foot / taxi / metro and had 2 very pleasant days in Santiago. We then returned to SCL to pick up the rental car. Id rather pay for a cab back to SCL than rent it in the city to first leave it. We then drove to Valparaiso, which is a beautiful and easy drive until getting into the city. I knew wed have problems, but who knew that the hotel (Puerta de Alcala) was on a pedestrian street with no place to park. After quite a hassle of finally finding the place and running in there while the others tended the car [in a bad bad place to leave the car], we did make the right choice. The bellman came out, got the luggage, brought it in, came back, guided me to the parking (a public lot a few blocks away, but they validate the ticket), and then we walked back to the hotel. Staff couldnt have been nicer. Rooms? Typical Chile outside of Santiago. Clean, safe, inexpensive, marginal breakfast (but with actual non-instant coffee), simple lodging. Travel snobs should stay away from Valpo (and indeed, most of Chile) because there are few deluxe accommodations outside of Santiago.
Valparaiso is worth a day of touring, probably not much more, which was perfect. Took a few funiculars, walked around, and so on. The next morning, after breakfast, we drove up the coast a bit through Via and Reaca. It was an absolutely beautiful day, and you would think you were on one of the worlds finest and most expensive coastlines based upon the views and the new buildings. We ended back in Via, where we had a marginal but acceptable lunch (the 3 of us ate multi-course meals with beverage for about $10), and then we drove back to the airport.
The Neruda (LA) Lounge at SCL is very nice, and I had my traditional Absolut Mandrin with Apricot juice and fizzywater cocktail, and tried 4 of the wines. While the snack spread isnt exceptional, its better than what any US carrier is putting out these days.
The flight home SCL (LIM) LAX. As nice as the flight crew was coming down, they were possibly even nicer going back. The meal choices were a bit better - I had caviar & king crab for appetizer, a small salad, the spicy shrimp soup, and the rack of lamb with garlic/bacon sweet potatoes (mmmmmmmm). Skipped the cheese. The dessert (a sort-of-caramel crust/chunks w/vanilla ice cream in pie form) was good. I passed on both the snack (sandwiches made to order) and the breakfast. Again, for more details, the prior reports foodservice notes are ample.
Across the aisle from me were apparently a famous TV actor and his model-wife. I have no idea who they were. Again, even with drawn curtains, national security was not compromised, and we arrived safely, a few minutes early at LAX.
The rest of the day went downhill - lets just say that the trip from LAX to SFO and then driving home, with weather delays, waiting for baggage, then traffic and so on, was just unpleasant. The travel time LIM/LAX (just over 8 hours) was about how long it took me from the time I got to LAX until the time I stepped in my door, 350 miles away.
And thats the story. There will be a lot more to come, as in just a few weeks, Im taking another real comprehensive trip for a couple fo weeks to Chile. I cant wait.
The prior 5 reports are: (These also contain some of the LanChile service notes I have not repeated - things are substantially similar if not better.)
http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/Forum81/HTML/003368.html
http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/Forum81/HTML/003369.html
http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/Forum81/HTML/003370.html
http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/Forum81/HTML/003371.html
http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/Forum81/HTML/003544.html
Some initial thoughts and comments. I had never been to Chile until November, 2001. I just returned from my 6th trip, and will be taking my 7th in 2 weeks. It will also be the longest trip Ive ever taken as an adult. My first trip was only to Santiago for a long weekend mileage run just to see a new place I was curious of, and I was hooked.
For my folks 40th anniversary, I gave them basically two J/C tickets anywhere. For months they didnt ever make up their minds. And so when the discussion of Thanksgiving came up and no one had any brilliant ideas, I had a thought.
26 Nov - SFO/LAX - UA. The day before Thanksgiving - SFO a breeze. Flight early. I checked my bags only to LAX. (My SFO/LAX/SFO was on a different paid UA ticket. The LAX/SCL was an AS award on LA [LanChile].) My checked luggage made an earlier flight and was already at LAX upon my arrival (after looking at the carousel spin and spin and spin in anxious anticipation as my luggage wasnt on it). I then walked over to the Bradley terminal where the old folks were waiting.
Check-in was fairly quick and friendly, and now the terminal has a premium security line - which is great because the past several times Ive been through there the security lines were horrendous. This day, none of the lines were bad. The shared lounge is ample, but not special. Staff is very polite. For the first time in my experience, my Lan plane had a real gate.
Few things make me feel as good as walking into an LA A340 and settling down in my row 1 seat. For complete service notes of the F service, this flight was substantially similar to previous trips, which can be read in some of the other links. But here are a few additional details. I immediately recognized one of the F flight attendants, and she remembered me from a year ago and immediately opened her arms to hug me. She even remembered details of my previous trip. Food was very good, and similar in courses to prior trips. Without going into the whole menu, I had caviar with Taittinger Comtes de Champagne, which is very good, along with some assorted other appetizers that were on the cart (such as steamed lobster). Then I had a little salad, and skipped the soup course. The entree selections didnt appear stellar, but the steak was just great. I had a piece of cheese from that course, with some port, and ate a touch of a marginal berry tart.
The new wine list is very good, and in fact, contains the best wine Ive ever had on LA - a Sea blend ($47 in the duty free catalog and a good chunk more retail) - a Mondavi / Chadwick joint venture. [I tried a total of 4 of the wines, out of approximately 8 or 9 choices.]
One nice thing about flying on LA is that curtains pose no threat to anyones national security, and the F cabin gets very dark. The fact that there are only 5 seats means that with 2 flight attendants, service is very personal and attentive, but that its hard to score an award, let alone a paid seat at certain times. My parents were 2 rows back in the J cabin. (No, there werent 3 available award seats in either cabin for the entire itinerary, and a max of 1 in F.) Their service in the J cabin was very good. Their food was ok to very good, with similar entrees, but different appetizers, a few less wines to choose from, and so on. They thoroughly enjoyed the flight.
There is then a snack service prior to landing in LIM, and then a breakfast prior to landing @ SCL. I had the snack (pate of foie gras, then with another meat dish. The other selections didnt seem appealing.) I skipped breakfast. The flight was an absolute pleasure.
Arriving at SCL is also a pleasure, after leaving the third world of LAX. Luggage arrives quickly, immigration lines are usually not long, and customs takes just the time for them to X-ray the baggage (which is usually just coming out about when you get to the carousel). Negotiating a cab is usually quick (but for the uninitiated its just as well to go to the booth.
Once again, I stayed at the Sheraton / San Cristobal Tower. The hotel sent the folks fruit, chocolates, champagne and wine. [Part was for their anniversary, and part, I believe, was my platinum amenity.] The Tower choice of amenity remains a booklet they hand you, with choices of wines, pisco (in the Easter Island bottle), a few other things, or 500 points. The pisco makes a nice gift, and so thats what I got. They also sent a beautiful fruit and chocolate display to the room. People may have other particular hotels they like, but this place treats me right time and time again, and even though the location isnt perfect, its close enough.
We toured around on foot / taxi / metro and had 2 very pleasant days in Santiago. We then returned to SCL to pick up the rental car. Id rather pay for a cab back to SCL than rent it in the city to first leave it. We then drove to Valparaiso, which is a beautiful and easy drive until getting into the city. I knew wed have problems, but who knew that the hotel (Puerta de Alcala) was on a pedestrian street with no place to park. After quite a hassle of finally finding the place and running in there while the others tended the car [in a bad bad place to leave the car], we did make the right choice. The bellman came out, got the luggage, brought it in, came back, guided me to the parking (a public lot a few blocks away, but they validate the ticket), and then we walked back to the hotel. Staff couldnt have been nicer. Rooms? Typical Chile outside of Santiago. Clean, safe, inexpensive, marginal breakfast (but with actual non-instant coffee), simple lodging. Travel snobs should stay away from Valpo (and indeed, most of Chile) because there are few deluxe accommodations outside of Santiago.
Valparaiso is worth a day of touring, probably not much more, which was perfect. Took a few funiculars, walked around, and so on. The next morning, after breakfast, we drove up the coast a bit through Via and Reaca. It was an absolutely beautiful day, and you would think you were on one of the worlds finest and most expensive coastlines based upon the views and the new buildings. We ended back in Via, where we had a marginal but acceptable lunch (the 3 of us ate multi-course meals with beverage for about $10), and then we drove back to the airport.
The Neruda (LA) Lounge at SCL is very nice, and I had my traditional Absolut Mandrin with Apricot juice and fizzywater cocktail, and tried 4 of the wines. While the snack spread isnt exceptional, its better than what any US carrier is putting out these days.
The flight home SCL (LIM) LAX. As nice as the flight crew was coming down, they were possibly even nicer going back. The meal choices were a bit better - I had caviar & king crab for appetizer, a small salad, the spicy shrimp soup, and the rack of lamb with garlic/bacon sweet potatoes (mmmmmmmm). Skipped the cheese. The dessert (a sort-of-caramel crust/chunks w/vanilla ice cream in pie form) was good. I passed on both the snack (sandwiches made to order) and the breakfast. Again, for more details, the prior reports foodservice notes are ample.
Across the aisle from me were apparently a famous TV actor and his model-wife. I have no idea who they were. Again, even with drawn curtains, national security was not compromised, and we arrived safely, a few minutes early at LAX.
The rest of the day went downhill - lets just say that the trip from LAX to SFO and then driving home, with weather delays, waiting for baggage, then traffic and so on, was just unpleasant. The travel time LIM/LAX (just over 8 hours) was about how long it took me from the time I got to LAX until the time I stepped in my door, 350 miles away.
And thats the story. There will be a lot more to come, as in just a few weeks, Im taking another real comprehensive trip for a couple fo weeks to Chile. I cant wait.
Dec 4, 2003, 2:42 pm
#3
Suspended
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Tampa, Florida, U.S.A.
Posts: 7,664
Nice trip reports: We did a similar trip mid September or first to Chile and really loved the place.
Like you we stayed at the San Cristobal and must agree the staff there really know how to attend to ones needs ( without giving the
impression of fawning over you)
One place which they highly recommended and we were very pleased we followed them was an afternoon visit to Los Dominicos, the artisian village east of Los Condes we ending buying a lot of nice little Xmas ( unique for the USA) gifts at very reasonable prices. The guy who carves sport figures, automobiles or animals on match-sticks is unbeliveable.
I agree with Valpo but we were lucky to make our visit on a Sunday something I would highly recommend for day trippers, parking was easy, we parked at the foot of Asencor
Concepcion and had a great lunch at Cafe Turri right at the top of the aformentioned asencor with a fantastic view of the harbour.
While i agree with you summation re hotels outside of Santaigo we did stay in a great place called Hotel Plaza Santa Cruz (in Santa Cruz of course) right in the heart of the wine district. The place is sort of the unofficial hangout from European and Ausralian wine merchants.
Finally one other side trip which in involved driving about 60km up into the Andes from Molina was to go to Siete Tazas.
This is park is set around some spectacular waterfalls and in one location has water cascading into seven stepped pools hence siete tazas = seven (tea) cups.
Well enough from me I dont want to hijack you trip report.
mike
Like you we stayed at the San Cristobal and must agree the staff there really know how to attend to ones needs ( without giving the
impression of fawning over you)
One place which they highly recommended and we were very pleased we followed them was an afternoon visit to Los Dominicos, the artisian village east of Los Condes we ending buying a lot of nice little Xmas ( unique for the USA) gifts at very reasonable prices. The guy who carves sport figures, automobiles or animals on match-sticks is unbeliveable.
I agree with Valpo but we were lucky to make our visit on a Sunday something I would highly recommend for day trippers, parking was easy, we parked at the foot of Asencor
Concepcion and had a great lunch at Cafe Turri right at the top of the aformentioned asencor with a fantastic view of the harbour.
While i agree with you summation re hotels outside of Santaigo we did stay in a great place called Hotel Plaza Santa Cruz (in Santa Cruz of course) right in the heart of the wine district. The place is sort of the unofficial hangout from European and Ausralian wine merchants.
Finally one other side trip which in involved driving about 60km up into the Andes from Molina was to go to Siete Tazas.
This is park is set around some spectacular waterfalls and in one location has water cascading into seven stepped pools hence siete tazas = seven (tea) cups.
Well enough from me I dont want to hijack you trip report.
mike
Dec 5, 2003, 11:58 pm
#4
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: New Orleans, AA EXP, DL PM, SPG PLT, HH Diamond
Posts: 3,750
Thanks EastBay. My family and I will be leaving for Chile in 2 weeks. It's our first trip there. We'll be spending most of our time in the Lakes Region and then taking a 7 day cruise on the Mare Australis, a new small expedition cruise ship that stops in Puerto Williams, Ursula?, and Cape Horn. I'm a little worried about the rough waters around Cape Horn. My wife is very prone to sea sickness. Anybody have any firsthand experience with Cape Horn?
Dec 6, 2003, 1:45 am
#5
FlyerTalk Evangelist
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: East Ester, Alaska
Programs: Alaska Million Miler, United Million Miler, Wyndham Rewards Diamond, Choice Hotels Diamond
Posts: 12,149
Great stuff, EastBay! I made three trips down to Chile and Argentina back in the nineties. Your report rekindles my desire to return sooner rather than later.
Thanks for this fine series of reports!
Thanks for this fine series of reports!
Dec 6, 2003, 9:42 am
#7
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: CO
Posts: 813
acflyer2 - Pay close attention to the weather. We just returned from Chile last Sunday and had intented to spend most of our time in the Lakes region - however, it was rainy the entire time we were down there (Puerto Montt) and there didn't seem to be any break in the weather. We were traveling on AA award tickets with the connecting Lan Chile flights included. Luckily for us, LA had no problems changing our return flights (without any fees). We flew back to Santiago and then traveled to Vina and Mendoza, Argentina. The bus ride over the Andes while long (6+ hrs) was awesome. The bus driver even let me sit up front in the conductor's seat and take pictures while the bus climbed to the Crito Redemptor tunnel. The bonus was actually seeing a number of Andean Condors soaring overhead.
I hope you have better luck with the weather - I will have to return in the future to explore the lakes region.
I hope you have better luck with the weather - I will have to return in the future to explore the lakes region.
Dec 6, 2003, 11:01 am
#8
FlyerTalk Evangelist
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Over the Bay Bridge, CA
Programs: Jumbo mas
Posts: 38,708
Yes, the weather in the south can be iffy - Weather is typical "pacific northwest" say up to Southeast Alaska. I have been very lucky down there (about 7 nights on a couple of trips) and have had mostly clear skies and barely a brief rainshower. I also had good weather in Pta Arenas (10c, very windy, clear). I haven't been "on the water" down there but you can expect she'll need to be medicated, and it will be very very cold and windy. I'll be spending another 6 nights in the south (Pto Montt and area) later this month and hope the weather gods continue to shine favorably upon me.
Jan 1, 2004, 10:10 am
#9
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: San Francisco
Programs: DL DM, 1MM AA PLT 2MM, Marriott Lifetime Titanium, and...Smiles Diamante
Posts: 2,783
Eastbay1K,
In my opinion, you're the resident Chile (and Hegenberger Road
) guru, so I think it's worth posting in this thread that Santiago's Hotel Carrera will be closing next month. A few more details from Travel and Leisure (for those who may not be up to date on their Chilean history 
):
Hotel Carrera, Santiago, before it closes next month A grand hotel in the classic tradition, this landmark on the Plaza de la Constitucin was strafed by gunfire during Augusto Pinochet's 1973 coup. More recently, it was sold to the now democratic Chilean government and is slated to become housing and offices as the entire six-block area undergoes a massive renovation.
UNTIL FEBRUARY 16: 800/745-8883 OR 56-2/680-3436; WWW.LHW.COM; DOUBLES FROM $119.
You can actually get rates as low as $79 on www.bookings-americas.com or LanChile last minute specials, or $99 through LHW.
[This message has been edited by snorkmaster (edited Jan 01, 2004).]
In my opinion, you're the resident Chile (and Hegenberger Road
) guru, so I think it's worth posting in this thread that Santiago's Hotel Carrera will be closing next month. A few more details from Travel and Leisure (for those who may not be up to date on their Chilean history ):Hotel Carrera, Santiago, before it closes next month A grand hotel in the classic tradition, this landmark on the Plaza de la Constitucin was strafed by gunfire during Augusto Pinochet's 1973 coup. More recently, it was sold to the now democratic Chilean government and is slated to become housing and offices as the entire six-block area undergoes a massive renovation.
UNTIL FEBRUARY 16: 800/745-8883 OR 56-2/680-3436; WWW.LHW.COM; DOUBLES FROM $119.
You can actually get rates as low as $79 on www.bookings-americas.com or LanChile last minute specials, or $99 through LHW.
[This message has been edited by snorkmaster (edited Jan 01, 2004).]
Jan 2, 2004, 1:41 pm
#10
FlyerTalk Evangelist
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Over the Bay Bridge, CA
Programs: Jumbo mas
Posts: 38,708
Well Im in the airport @ PMC, waiting my flight which will be the beginning of the end of these past 2.5 weeks in Chile. Expect a lengthy report. Once again, no dry eyes. From the flight down here on Lan, to just about every place I went and everyone I met, it is really a special place, all 4000kms of it.