To Hel and back: The Polish Riviera
Jul 30, 2015, 12:58 am
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: USA
Programs: United, American, Delta, Turkish, Alaska
Posts: 76
To Hel and back: The Polish Riviera
No, that’s not a typo. Hel is real, and we’re going. Now.
It’s summertime, and in Poland that can only mean one thing: a trip to the Island of Hel.
Hel is a town at the end of a sandy peninsula jutting out into the Baltic Sea in Puck County, Pomeranian Voivodeship in Poland. That is a fancy way to say it’s at the very top of Poland, near the more famous city of Gdansk.
Gdansk itself is a charming enough city, with a happening quay along the Motlowa River.
Gdansk
Just like Lucifer himself, however, Hel can be fun for a short while. And let’s try to avoid Polish jokes as we ponder the idea of trying to go for a swim in Hel, shall we?
Charon’s boat, known as the Water Tram F1, takes a little less than 2 hours each way, and tickets can be purchased for 35 PLN per person from a hidden ticket counter along the quay in Gdansk.
Morning on the quay
No guidebook or website is considerate enough to mention this, but the exact location of the ticket seller is at the lower level of the quay, where the Captain Morgan pirate ship is (once you see it, you’ll know exactly where that is, and I’d deride such a gauche thing were it not serving the all-important purpose of marking the ticket office).
Pirate ship visible on the right
Take in the view as you pull away from Gdansk, and appreciate all the shipping and shipbuilding going on. Take a brief moment of silence in remembrance of Frank Sobatka of The Wire– hey, he was Polish, too!
Soon enough, you will enter the Baltic Sea. It will be grey. Then again, this is the Highway to Hel, so what were you expecting?
After about two hours, you will arrive at the Gates of Hel and be warmly greeted by salty fishermen, more pirate ships, and a one-armed Polish sailor who may or may not be putting on an act as he sings things loudly at passerby.
Welcome to Hel!
The city of Hel is now mostly a resort, but it does have a few notable historical things.
The main attraction, of course, is the beach.
Naturally, Hel is full of dandelions.
Depending on your sanity level, it may or may not look inviting for a swim.
"Miles away from ordinary."
It’s summertime, and in Poland that can only mean one thing: a trip to the Island of Hel.
Hel is a town at the end of a sandy peninsula jutting out into the Baltic Sea in Puck County, Pomeranian Voivodeship in Poland. That is a fancy way to say it’s at the very top of Poland, near the more famous city of Gdansk.
Gdansk itself is a charming enough city, with a happening quay along the Motlowa River.
Gdansk
Just like Lucifer himself, however, Hel can be fun for a short while. And let’s try to avoid Polish jokes as we ponder the idea of trying to go for a swim in Hel, shall we?
Charon’s boat, known as the Water Tram F1, takes a little less than 2 hours each way, and tickets can be purchased for 35 PLN per person from a hidden ticket counter along the quay in Gdansk.
Morning on the quay
No guidebook or website is considerate enough to mention this, but the exact location of the ticket seller is at the lower level of the quay, where the Captain Morgan pirate ship is (once you see it, you’ll know exactly where that is, and I’d deride such a gauche thing were it not serving the all-important purpose of marking the ticket office).
Pirate ship visible on the right
Take in the view as you pull away from Gdansk, and appreciate all the shipping and shipbuilding going on. Take a brief moment of silence in remembrance of Frank Sobatka of The Wire– hey, he was Polish, too!
Soon enough, you will enter the Baltic Sea. It will be grey. Then again, this is the Highway to Hel, so what were you expecting?
After about two hours, you will arrive at the Gates of Hel and be warmly greeted by salty fishermen, more pirate ships, and a one-armed Polish sailor who may or may not be putting on an act as he sings things loudly at passerby.
Welcome to Hel!
The city of Hel is now mostly a resort, but it does have a few notable historical things.
The main attraction, of course, is the beach.
Naturally, Hel is full of dandelions.
Depending on your sanity level, it may or may not look inviting for a swim.
"Miles away from ordinary."
Jul 30, 2015, 1:05 am
#2
Original Poster
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: USA
Programs: United, American, Delta, Turkish, Alaska
Posts: 76
Continued...
Rest assured, Polar Ice Club members- there will be plenty of Baltic stock perfectly happy to jump into the water with you here. (Maybe though, that’s just my personal vision of Hell).
All that hypothermia will surely work up an appetite, so we suggest you get a bite to eat at one of the many restaurants along the beach serving Polish delicacies. Prepare for a hefty helping of dill with your pierogis.
Potato pancakes
Salmon
Fruit pierogis
If that’s not enough, there’s always “American ice cream” along the boardwalk for dessert, and a choice of “New York” or “French” hot dogs.
As your time in Hel draws to a close, wait for the next ferry back to Gdansk.
Word to the wise: It turns out the people of Poland aren’t much for patiently waiting in orderly lines. As the ferry draws nearer, the crowd will begin to close in on the dock. Even before the passengers have gotten off, that crowd will turn into a mob, complete with pushing, shoving, and all kinds of uncouth behavior. Forget ridiculous jokes about how many Poles it takes to change a lightbulb, how many Poles will try and succeed in squeezing onto a ferry at the same time?
In fact, the main culprits appear to be old women. We attributed this to their having been raised during the German occupation, only to spend their prime years living under Communism, which will naturally lead to some aggression as a survival instinct. So try to be understanding as they administer a swift elbow to your kidney.
Eventually though, the old women will trample onto the boat and give you enough breathing room to get on yourself.
More importantly, though, you can now tell those missionaries on your doorstep that you do not fear Hel, you have been there and had a great time, and there is indeed a way back.
Now please, go to Hel.
All that hypothermia will surely work up an appetite, so we suggest you get a bite to eat at one of the many restaurants along the beach serving Polish delicacies. Prepare for a hefty helping of dill with your pierogis.
Potato pancakes
Salmon
Fruit pierogis
If that’s not enough, there’s always “American ice cream” along the boardwalk for dessert, and a choice of “New York” or “French” hot dogs.
As your time in Hel draws to a close, wait for the next ferry back to Gdansk.
Word to the wise: It turns out the people of Poland aren’t much for patiently waiting in orderly lines. As the ferry draws nearer, the crowd will begin to close in on the dock. Even before the passengers have gotten off, that crowd will turn into a mob, complete with pushing, shoving, and all kinds of uncouth behavior. Forget ridiculous jokes about how many Poles it takes to change a lightbulb, how many Poles will try and succeed in squeezing onto a ferry at the same time?
In fact, the main culprits appear to be old women. We attributed this to their having been raised during the German occupation, only to spend their prime years living under Communism, which will naturally lead to some aggression as a survival instinct. So try to be understanding as they administer a swift elbow to your kidney.
Eventually though, the old women will trample onto the boat and give you enough breathing room to get on yourself.
More importantly, though, you can now tell those missionaries on your doorstep that you do not fear Hel, you have been there and had a great time, and there is indeed a way back.
Now please, go to Hel.
Aug 19, 2015, 1:22 pm
#10
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: DFW
Programs: AA Lifetime Gold, Admirals Club, Global Entry
Posts: 1,141
Another fine report, thank you.
Apparently there's a lot of history there, military, commercial and logistical. At least it's Poland again and the Germans, the Soviets and their fellow-travelling Communists are all long gone -- the latter two in more ways than one.
It all makes me wonder: how many people really swim there these days?
Apparently there's a lot of history there, military, commercial and logistical. At least it's Poland again and the Germans, the Soviets and their fellow-travelling Communists are all long gone -- the latter two in more ways than one.
It all makes me wonder: how many people really swim there these days?
Aug 21, 2015, 4:25 am
#12
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: OSL
Programs: SK Diamond, LH SEN, KL Ivory, AY Basic, OZ silver
Posts: 1,103
Thanks a lot for sharing. I have traveled dozens of times to the Trojmiasto (Threecity) for work (also combined with leisure from time to time) and I found it very amusing to read about your experiences in Hel. Thanks for keeping out the Polish jokes, that's a shiny and bright move. Polish people and Poland are actually great once you've taken some years to get to know them.
Anyway, I'm sure you've had a Hel of a time there!
Sopot still is a fancy resort town. They still have 2 great hotels there, both at the end of Monte Cassino and near the pier. The Sheraton is the first (my pick, staying there often), which is a 5 star resort, fairly new and modern and with great rooms and superb breakfast.
The other one is next door, the Grand Hotel. It's also 5 star, but 50 years behind, a tad worn. Naturally, this is the one Putin hires (yes, the whole hotel) when he visits the region. It's my second choice, though.
Anyway, I'm sure you've had a Hel of a time there!
The other one is next door, the Grand Hotel. It's also 5 star, but 50 years behind, a tad worn. Naturally, this is the one Putin hires (yes, the whole hotel) when he visits the region. It's my second choice, though.