No, that’s not a typo. Hel is real, and we’re going. Now.

It’s summertime, and in Poland that can only mean one thing: a trip to the Island of Hel.

Hel is a town at the end of a sandy peninsula jutting out into the Baltic Sea in Puck County, Pomeranian Voivodeship in Poland. That is a fancy way to say it’s at the very top of Poland, near the more famous city of Gdansk.

Gdansk itself is a charming enough city, with a happening quay along the Motlowa River.


Gdansk

Just like Lucifer himself, however, Hel can be fun for a short while. And let’s try to avoid Polish jokes as we ponder the idea of trying to go for a swim in Hel, shall we?

Charon’s boat, known as the Water Tram F1, takes a little less than 2 hours each way, and tickets can be purchased for 35 PLN per person from a hidden ticket counter along the quay in Gdansk.


Morning on the quay

No guidebook or website is considerate enough to mention this, but the exact location of the ticket seller is at the lower level of the quay, where the Captain Morgan pirate ship is (once you see it, you’ll know exactly where that is, and I’d deride such a gauche thing were it not serving the all-important purpose of marking the ticket office).


Pirate ship visible on the right

Take in the view as you pull away from Gdansk, and appreciate all the shipping and shipbuilding going on. Take a brief moment of silence in remembrance of Frank Sobatka of The Wire– hey, he was Polish, too!





Soon enough, you will enter the Baltic Sea. It will be grey. Then again, this is the Highway to Hel, so what were you expecting?



After about two hours, you will arrive at the Gates of Hel and be warmly greeted by salty fishermen, more pirate ships, and a one-armed Polish sailor who may or may not be putting on an act as he sings things loudly at passerby.


Welcome to Hel!

The city of Hel is now mostly a resort, but it does have a few notable historical things.

The main attraction, of course, is the beach.


Naturally, Hel is full of dandelions.

Depending on your sanity level, it may or may not look inviting for a swim.




"Miles away from ordinary."