Is this a trusted tool
#17



Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: RDU
Programs: DL DM+(segs)/MM, UA Ag, Hilton DM, Marriott Ti (life Pt), TSA Opt-out Platinum
Posts: 3,366
I've stopped wasting time with retail consumer grade routers. It's almost like they're designed to fail after ~two years. I'm a heavy internet/VPN user. They all overheat/lock up occasionally (requiring a reboot) if you put a load on them or a high number of concurrent connections. And don't get me started on the crappy firmware they have and they rarely update. If you do go consumer grade, don't spend more than $100 or so.
It's not too much more expensive to step up to a prosumer type product like the Ubiquity AC PRO access points. Slightly more difficult to setup, but well worth the effort.
It's not too much more expensive to step up to a prosumer type product like the Ubiquity AC PRO access points. Slightly more difficult to setup, but well worth the effort.
#18


Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: NYC
Posts: 7,047
Agreed. What kinds of issues are you experiencing? Is it just certain websites or all of them? Run a couple of speed tests (www.speedtest.net) and see if you get about what you pay for.
Try plugging in and disabling wifi, and see if that helps. If so, change the wifi channel on your router for both frequency bands.
Try plugging in and disabling wifi, and see if that helps. If so, change the wifi channel on your router for both frequency bands.
- The 2.4GHz network should be on channel 1, 6, or 11 with a 20MHz channel width.
- The 5.8GHz network can be on any channel with a 40MHz or 80MHz channel width.
#19
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Exclusively OMNI/PR, for Reasons
Posts: 4,186
I've stopped wasting time with retail consumer grade routers. It's almost like they're designed to fail after ~two years. I'm a heavy internet/VPN user. They all overheat/lock up occasionally (requiring a reboot) if you put a load on them or a high number of concurrent connections. And don't get me started on the crappy firmware they have and they rarely update. If you do go consumer grade, don't spend more than $100 or so.
It's not too much more expensive to step up to a prosumer type product like the Ubiquity AC PRO access points. Slightly more difficult to setup, but well worth the effort.
It's not too much more expensive to step up to a prosumer type product like the Ubiquity AC PRO access points. Slightly more difficult to setup, but well worth the effort.
#20
Original Poster




Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: SORT OF HOMELESS
Programs: 14 years AA exp, but no more; & 1MM+, QR-PLT (ow EMD) MR-LTT, HH Gold
Posts: 8,106
The Arris Surfboards have been fantastic.
The SB6141 is good for up to just shy of 350 megabits/sec and the SB6190 is good for about 600... while Comcast is starting to tell people theyre outdated because they are DOCSIS 3.0, the reality is theyre cheap and fast enough for most current cable packages. But if you either have a faster package now or you want something more future-proof, the SB8200 is DOCSIS 3.1 and goes all the way out to 10 gigabits/sec.
Both of the above are cable modems only. If your current unit also serves as a wireless router, or you have Xfinity voice service, youd need additional or different hardware.
Check other places besides Best Buy. Office Depot and Amazon are often cheaper.
The SB6141 is good for up to just shy of 350 megabits/sec and the SB6190 is good for about 600... while Comcast is starting to tell people theyre outdated because they are DOCSIS 3.0, the reality is theyre cheap and fast enough for most current cable packages. But if you either have a faster package now or you want something more future-proof, the SB8200 is DOCSIS 3.1 and goes all the way out to 10 gigabits/sec.
Both of the above are cable modems only. If your current unit also serves as a wireless router, or you have Xfinity voice service, youd need additional or different hardware.
Check other places besides Best Buy. Office Depot and Amazon are often cheaper.
#21
Original Poster




Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: SORT OF HOMELESS
Programs: 14 years AA exp, but no more; & 1MM+, QR-PLT (ow EMD) MR-LTT, HH Gold
Posts: 8,106
#22
Original Poster




Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: SORT OF HOMELESS
Programs: 14 years AA exp, but no more; & 1MM+, QR-PLT (ow EMD) MR-LTT, HH Gold
Posts: 8,106
Here is my 2 cents to OP:
1. I could be wrong about this - Usually, what you described generally associate with an aging router. In my experience, normal wear and tear will deteriorate the quality of WiFi connection. The only solution is to replace the router.
While I agree with others that you should own your equipment to save the money, because you are on a rental, you should contact Comcast for a new one before you can buy and install the new equipment. Just tell them that your router is not working properly.
2. All speeds published by any ISPs are "up to". Basically, an ISP will guarantee its speed, at the minimum, the top speed of the next lower level. For example, if your plan is Comcast's 100Mbps. Then the minimum you can get will be 25Mbps. If you can get anything beyond that, then Comcast consider you have no issue in term of speed.
3. It is almost not worthy to tweak around the OS for a higher speed. What impacts your speed the most is where you connect. For example, if you have a poor quality with Netflix, the chance is Netflix's connections are at peak instead of your connection. Instead, doing anything around your OS can cause more problems that it seems.
1. I could be wrong about this - Usually, what you described generally associate with an aging router. In my experience, normal wear and tear will deteriorate the quality of WiFi connection. The only solution is to replace the router.
While I agree with others that you should own your equipment to save the money, because you are on a rental, you should contact Comcast for a new one before you can buy and install the new equipment. Just tell them that your router is not working properly.
2. All speeds published by any ISPs are "up to". Basically, an ISP will guarantee its speed, at the minimum, the top speed of the next lower level. For example, if your plan is Comcast's 100Mbps. Then the minimum you can get will be 25Mbps. If you can get anything beyond that, then Comcast consider you have no issue in term of speed.
3. It is almost not worthy to tweak around the OS for a higher speed. What impacts your speed the most is where you connect. For example, if you have a poor quality with Netflix, the chance is Netflix's connections are at peak instead of your connection. Instead, doing anything around your OS can cause more problems that it seems.
I have contacted Xfinity re the equipment twice. Both times they kept saying that I should reset router and restart. They did not think there was a problem with the hardware. It is quite frustrating to talk to them, wait time was long and the nonsense that they gave me!
I agree that it is not worthy to tweak the OS. Beside, that is way beyond me anyway!
#24
FlyerTalk Evangelist




Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: ZOA, SFO, HKG
Programs: UA 1K 0.9MM, Marriott Gold, HHonors Gold, Hertz PC, SBux Gold, TSA Pre✓
Posts: 13,807
That means you are not a heavy user yet.
FWIW - routers do not usually last as long as computers. With a few exceptions, routers are one of the electronic appliances in a home that people do not power down. In addition, routers' exterior are plastic without any active heat reduction measures. So unlike a computer, a router is destined to fail. It is only a matter of when.
They are taught to say this, as it costs. You should do this:
1. If no router, tell the rep either issue a credit on the account. Also, escalate if available.
2. Bring your router for an exchange at a physical Comcast store (if they are still open).
FWIW - routers do not usually last as long as computers. With a few exceptions, routers are one of the electronic appliances in a home that people do not power down. In addition, routers' exterior are plastic without any active heat reduction measures. So unlike a computer, a router is destined to fail. It is only a matter of when.
They are taught to say this, as it costs. You should do this:
1. If no router, tell the rep either issue a credit on the account. Also, escalate if available.
2. Bring your router for an exchange at a physical Comcast store (if they are still open).
#25



Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: RDU
Programs: DL DM+(segs)/MM, UA Ag, Hilton DM, Marriott Ti (life Pt), TSA Opt-out Platinum
Posts: 3,366
Don't know why you have so much trouble with routers. I'm currently using Netgear WNDR3700, WNDR4500 and R9000 routers that have all been functioning flawlessly since new. I also have a Linksys EA8500 that has been trouble free. The R9000 is the workhorse, providing our primary internet gateway and hosting multiple dozens of devices and 3 HD/4K streams most evenings.
I have trouble with retail routers, for the reasons I mentioned. More specifically: Poor design, cheap under powered components, buggy firmware with little functionality, and slow updates to fix CVEs. We have 4 people in our house including two teenagers. Streaming/gaming is near constant. I work from home (even pre-CV19). We use a ton of data, over 50GB/day on average. We run multiple VPN connections, both in and out. We have a Gigabit fiber ISP connection, multiple APs with overlaid SSIDs and separate VLANs. Netgear and Linksys junk doesn't stand a chance in our house. Right now, I can pull 500Mbps up and down via wifi (with over 50 other devices connected to 2 APs) to my local speedtest server. Good luck with that on retail devices.
The only retail router/APs I would touch are those that will take a good opensource firmware, like dd-wrt, pfsense, etc. However, that doesn't fix the under powering issues, they still eventually burn up.
#26
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Exclusively OMNI/PR, for Reasons
Posts: 4,186
Define "heavy user."
If your usage is so atypical (24/7 site mirroring/bittorrent/4K streaming, etc) then your purchasing advice is pretty much useless for the vast majority of home users.
I work from home, am often connected to multiple VPNs concurrently, have essentially two active households where the primary entertainment is streamed content to 4K-capable devices using services that deliver much of their content in 4K.
Oh, and btw, the R9000 does have active cooling, but is still categorized a "consumer" router.
If your usage is so atypical (24/7 site mirroring/bittorrent/4K streaming, etc) then your purchasing advice is pretty much useless for the vast majority of home users.
I work from home, am often connected to multiple VPNs concurrently, have essentially two active households where the primary entertainment is streamed content to 4K-capable devices using services that deliver much of their content in 4K.
Oh, and btw, the R9000 does have active cooling, but is still categorized a "consumer" router.
#27
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Exclusively OMNI/PR, for Reasons
Posts: 4,186
I have trouble with retail routers, for the reasons I mentioned. More specifically: Poor design, cheap under powered components, buggy firmware with little functionality, and slow updates to fix CVEs. We have 4 people in our house including two teenagers. Streaming/gaming is near constant. I work from home (even pre-CV19). We use a ton of data, over 50GB/day on average. We run multiple VPN connections, both in and out. We have a Gigabit fiber ISP connection, multiple APs with overlaid SSIDs and separate VLANs. Netgear and Linksys junk doesn't stand a chance in our house. Right now, I can pull 500Mbps up and down via wifi (with over 50 other devices connected to 2 APs) to my local speedtest server. Good luck with that on retail devices.
The only retail router/APs I would touch are those that will take a good opensource firmware, like dd-wrt, pfsense, etc. However, that doesn't fix the under powering issues, they still eventually burn up.
The only retail router/APs I would touch are those that will take a good opensource firmware, like dd-wrt, pfsense, etc. However, that doesn't fix the under powering issues, they still eventually burn up.
#28



Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: RDU
Programs: DL DM+(segs)/MM, UA Ag, Hilton DM, Marriott Ti (life Pt), TSA Opt-out Platinum
Posts: 3,366
I have a large property that could well be described as a "compound," with multiple dwellings and outbuildings. They're bridged using MoCA 2 adapters over an existing cable infrastructure; this has provided rock-solid service since we moved here 3 years ago. The WNDR3700 and 4500 are running dd-wrt. Until very recently, buggy ath10k drivers for the R9000 prevented me from taking advantage of dd-wrt on that device. Fortunately, Netgear has, as of late, been fairly responsive in addressing CVEs. I do plan to move to dd-wrt once the latest betas prove their stability. The EA8500 (which was gifted to me by Linksys as part of a promotion) serves as the guest network for the main house. It's currently running the latest Linksys release, but since it's behind the firewall and rarely used, switching to dd-wrt hasn't been a priority. All are configured with careful consideration of channel selection, and bandwidth/latency across all routers is excellent.
One of these days I'll have a "compound".

One of the nice things about having APs aware of each other is that they can automatically manage their channels and also make sure not to step on each other.
#29
FlyerTalk Evangelist




Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: ZOA, SFO, HKG
Programs: UA 1K 0.9MM, Marriott Gold, HHonors Gold, Hertz PC, SBux Gold, TSA Pre✓
Posts: 13,807
You will know if you are one.
I won't say this is heavy. You are connected. But this does not mean the router is constantly transferring data.
Good to know. I will keep that in mind.
Good to know. I will keep that in mind.
#30
FlyerTalk Evangelist



Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 38,543
We have a Gigabit fiber ISP connection, multiple APs with overlaid SSIDs and separate VLANs. Netgear and Linksys junk doesn't stand a chance in our house. Right now, I can pull 500Mbps up and down via wifi (with over 50 other devices connected to 2 APs) to my local speedtest server. Good luck with that on retail devices.
The only retail router/APs I would touch are those that will take a good opensource firmware, like dd-wrt, pfsense, etc. However, that doesn't fix the under powering issues, they still eventually burn up.
The only retail router/APs I would touch are those that will take a good opensource firmware, like dd-wrt, pfsense, etc. However, that doesn't fix the under powering issues, they still eventually burn up.

