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Old Jan 10, 2018, 9:17 pm
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Loren Pechtel
Heating elements generally don't have much tolerance. The problem is that the heat they produce goes up at the square of voltage. Going from Japanese 100V power to American 120V power means the heating element produces 44% more heat. I found an image of the back panel that says 1,400W. Even if the heating element can take it a standard US outlet is only rated for 15A--this would draw 16.8A.
Originally Posted by gfunkdave
No, the voltage is still 120 V. 1400 W/ 120V = 11.6 A.
No. You have an element that dissipates 1,400W when fed 100V. That means it's drawing 14A and thus has a resistance of 7.1428 ohms. Now you feed 120V through 7.1428 ohms and you get 16.8A. 16.8A @ 120V = 2016W.
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Old Jan 10, 2018, 9:19 pm
  #17  
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Originally Posted by ajGoes
A friend who is an electrical engineer got tired of waiting for his toast in the morning, so he plugged his toaster into an autotransformer and boosted the voltage to 160 volts. Toasting time dropped from a leisurely seven minutes to two and a half. As far as I know, the toaster has survived the experience so far - though it's only been running in turbo mode for a few months. He told me that the nichrome wire used in heating elements generally has a pretty high tolerance.
I meant to produce the sort of heat the unit was designed for. Sure, you can crank it up like this (it will cut the life substantially, but for what he's doing that very well might be worth it, especially as the base life is so long) but a toaster is a case where you can tolerate a pretty extreme overheat without breaking the operation of the device.
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Old Jan 11, 2018, 4:36 am
  #18  
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I mentioned this before in another thread -- I purchased a Zojirushi IH pressure-type rice cooker at Costco in Japan and using it in the US without a transformer. I suspect that because it is microprocessor-controlled that it monitors the temperature and makes adjustments as needed so that the higher voltage doesn't result in higher heat. It certainly doesn't feel hotter than normal. I've been meaning to measure the current draw to see if it is automatically compensating, but just haven't gotten around to it. While it works for me, you'll have to decide for yourself if you want to take the risk. I just thought I'd provide my experience as a data point.

For transformers, check out the Book-Off stores in the LA-area. I have a couple of transformers that step down from 120V to 100V and are rated for 1,400 or 1,500 watts. They were purchased as used items at the Costa Mesa Book-Off store. One is a Sanyo, the other a Nissin. I believe both were made in Japan. Cost was $40 and $45. Book-Off stores in the US buy and sell used electronics, fashion, household, and other items, similar to the other xxx-Off stores in Japan. The transformers were probably obtained from Japanese company employees who were working in the US, before transferring back to Japan.

The transformers aren't too big, maybe like a 5" cube, but they are relatively heavy. Sorry for not having exact details, but I'm currently in Thailand and can't check.

I just did an online search, and I believe that the Sanyo transformer is a model TSD-15U, with the following specs:

Input: AC 120V, 50/60Hz
Output: AC 100V
Power: 1500VA

Last edited by Yub; Jan 11, 2018 at 4:45 am
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Old Jan 11, 2018, 7:40 am
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Loren Pechtel
No. You have an element that dissipates 1,400W when fed 100V. That means it's drawing 14A and thus has a resistance of 7.1428 ohms. Now you feed 120V through 7.1428 ohms and you get 16.8A. 16.8A @ 120V = 2016W.
Ahhh yes thanks. Resistance stays constant in the device so current and wattage change.
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Old Jan 11, 2018, 8:07 am
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Yub
I mentioned this before in another thread -- I purchased a Zojirushi IH pressure-type rice cooker at Costco in Japan and using it in the US without a transformer. I suspect that because it is microprocessor-controlled that it monitors the temperature and makes adjustments as needed so that the higher voltage doesn't result in higher heat. It certainly doesn't feel hotter than normal. I've been meaning to measure the current draw to see if it is automatically compensating, but just haven't gotten around to it. While it works for me, you'll have to decide for yourself if you want to take the risk. I just thought I'd provide my experience as a data point.

For transformers, check out the Book-Off stores in the LA-area. I have a couple of transformers that step down from 120V to 100V and are rated for 1,400 or 1,500 watts. They were purchased as used items at the Costa Mesa Book-Off store. One is a Sanyo, the other a Nissin. I believe both were made in Japan. Cost was $40 and $45. Book-Off stores in the US buy and sell used electronics, fashion, household, and other items, similar to the other xxx-Off stores in Japan. The transformers were probably obtained from Japanese company employees who were working in the US, before transferring back to Japan.

The transformers aren't too big, maybe like a 5" cube, but they are relatively heavy. Sorry for not having exact details, but I'm currently in Thailand and can't check.

I just did an online search, and I believe that the Sanyo transformer is a model TSD-15U, with the following specs:

Input: AC 120V, 50/60Hz
Output: AC 100V
Power: 1500VA
Perfect, thank you!
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Old Jan 11, 2018, 2:14 pm
  #21  
 
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Originally Posted by ajGoes
A friend who is an electrical engineer got tired of waiting for his toast in the morning, so he plugged his toaster into an autotransformer and boosted the voltage to 140 volts. Toasting time dropped from a leisurely seven minutes to two and a half. As far as I know, the toaster has survived the experience so far - though it's only been running in turbo mode for a few months. He told me that the nichrome wire used in heating elements generally has a pretty high tolerance.
Just had lunch with said friend. As I suspected, I'd misremembered both toasting times and the voltage he's toasting at. It's just 140. That reduced toasting time from about four minutes to two and a quarter. I have a feeling a 17% increase in input voltage will result in a barely measurable reduction in heating element life.
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