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Old Oct 17, 2005, 2:45 pm
  #136  
 
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Fred Thompson, the food critic for the News&Observer in Raleigh, published his picks on October 16, 2005:

Skipper Forsyth's, Henderson

Our journey begins in the north-central part of the state, in Henderson, home of the Nunnery-Freeman Kook Rite Kooker, the electric cooker with a wood insert that is widely used across the state. But skip the Kooker's namesake restaurant and head instead where the Vance County locals do. Turn right on U.S. 158 and pull into Skipper Forsyth's Bar-BQ. The place is packed. The 'cue is moist and almost brown instead of gray, probably because they use both shoulders and hams. The sauce, a hybrid containing tomato and vinegar, suits the barbecue. Here's a case where the electric Kook Rite Kooker works. What they lose in smoke flavor they make up for in tenderness and seasoning.

Ralph's, Weldon

We continue our Eastern route by taking U.S. 158 almost due east to Weldon, south of Roanoke Rapids and home of Ralph's Barbecue. Located at exit 173 off I-95, close to the Virginia border, Ralph's is the first opportunity for south-bound interstate travelers to get the flavor of North Carolina barbecue. The building looks like something from a 1950s movie set, but don't hesitate. Ralph's has been the caterer for dos in Richmond and D.C., where it was also the barbecue of choice for the Redskins football team. While not cooked over wood, the charred meat on the outside of the pork is added into the chopped 'cue, and you actually get a wood flavor. Besides chopped, you can get sliced and pulled styles, which I like even better. The slaw is sort of "fish house" slaw that somehow works.

Gardner's, Rocky Mount

Shooting down I-95 with an exit east on U.S. 64, our next stop is Rocky Mount. Once a hotbed of barbecue eateries, Rocky Mount has not yet recovered from the death blows dealt by Hurricane Floyd in 1999 to such institutions as Bob Melton's. What's left is Gardner's -- billboards down I-95 make sure you know where to find it. When it's right, Gardner's barbecue has a wonderful roast pork flavor that blends well with its almost neon green slaw. But many times, I've found the barbecue dry and seemingly reheated and the seasoning ineffective.

Next, we head south on U.S. 301 to the heart of Eastern barbecue country, the city of Wilson. In 1946, when U.S. 301 was the I-95 of its day, the Parker brothers staked a claim in Wilson. Not much has changed. Parker's switched from all oak to hardwood charcoal with a gas assist, but they are still cooking whole hogs to perfection. With the higher content of white meat in a whole hog versus a shoulder, chopped pork can be dry. Parker's has overcome this on most days, delivering a moist and good tasting product with a spicy vinegar sauce, and superior mustard-based slaw. My biggest complaint with Parker's and other Eastern styles is how finely it's chopped -- more minced, almost pre-chewed. A coarser chop would help.

The Skylight Inn, Ayden

From Wilson, we head east on U.S. 264, then south on N.C. 11 to the little town of Ayden, home of The Skylight Inn. The barbecue there is close to the Holy Grail for those who like Eastern-style victuals. The Jones family has a pretty clear philosophy about barbecue: "If it isn't cooked on wood, it isn't barbecue." Pete Jones is doing something right. Just about every president and state politician over the past few decades has sampled his wares. A couple of years ago, the James Beard Foundation honored him as a great regional restaurant, and National Geographic sings its praises as the best 'cue in the world. Don't expect a wide menu: Barbecue, slaw and cornbread is about all you'll get. The Jones product is pretty close to perfect, except when the fat and "cracklings" make it too greasy. It's still worth the trip.

Wilber's, Goldsboro

The perfect Eastern barbecue experience is west of Ayden, in Goldsboro, at Wilber's Barbecue. Wilber Shirley has this barbecue style figured out. The process still starts by cooking with hardwood, burned to coals outside the pit and then carried into the pithouse as needed. He cooks whole hogs and shoulders, which (with its extra moist dark meat) keeps the barbecue moist and tender. The chop is a good consistency, with an awesome blending of the different meat types. The seasoning is simple, salt and pepper while cooking, and his table sauce is the most intriguing in Eastern North Carolina. For a real treat, ask for "chunks" -- then tip the waitress extra. The slaw blends with the pork impeccably, with its extra tang, different from most Eastern-style slaws. The whole experience makes Wilber's the king of Eastern 'cue.

Smithfield's, Smithfield

Next, we swing west and north, back to I-95 and Smithfield, home base for the popular Smithfield's Chicken N' Bar-B-Q chain. I hate to admit this, but a New Yorker convinced me to try Smithfield's. I quickly found that avoiding it because it was a chain had prevented me from enjoying some truly great barbecue. You'll find no smoke, but you will find perfectly cooked pork, not overly chopped, with excellent seasoning, perfect slaw for their pork, and maybe the second best Eastern-style sauce in the state. With its multiple locations on our interstates and main roads, the Smithfield's chain is holding up its end in serving visitors and locals alike a quality product and representing Eastern style 'cue in style.

Holt Lake, Smithfield

Also in Smithfield, Holt Lake Barbecue and Seafood is another restaurant that cooks with electricity and turns out a good product. The 'cue has a good balance of brown and white meat, making it moist and flavorful, with a sauce that will eat your tongue alive by itself, but just has flavor without the fire once it hits the meat. They cook whole hogs, shoulders and hams, which they still buy locally. I never told many people about this place, but Our State Magazine "outed" them, so one of my secrets is gone. Do not leave the place without eating at least one piece of fried chicken.

Allen and Son, Orange County

Turning west along I-40, approaching that invisible line somewhere between Burlington and Greensboro and separates Eastern from Lexington-style, we find Allen and Son on N.C. 86 between Chapel Hill and Hillsborough.

Allen and Son seems lost in time. Here, an artisanal approach to barbecue takes place. The hickory wood is split with ax and maul, the charcoal made from those logs added at the perfect time. The barbecue is hand- chopped with its dark, deep golden brown outside meat mixed in to perfect proportions. Keith Allen likes it this way. Pure, simple. Even after exposure in Bon Appetit Magazine, little has changed, and the barbecue is first-rate. While his sauce is more Eastern style, his methods have a Piedmont take. With Lexington- style red slaw his 'cue could be perfect.

Short Sugar's, Reidsville

Going north on N.C. 87, past Burlington, if you're lucky you'll find Short Sugar's Drive In in Reidsville. Noted barbecue authority Bob Garner likes to say that Short Sugar's has "the best name in America." They also happen to have excellent barbecue. In the early 1980s, North and South Carolina politicians living in Washington, D.C., decided to have a Barbecue Bowl between the two states. Short Sugar's represented North Carolina. The first contest was judged a draw, but the next year Short Sugar's was crowned the champion. Short Sugar's could almost be my favorite barbecue place in the state. They cook over hardwood coals and chop or slice the meat to order by hand. They cook mainly hams and some shoulders, giving them a lean product, but it's the sauce that stands out. Neither a Lexington nor Eastern style, the sauce is thin, with a Worcestershire and sugar base, plus vinegar overtones. Cooking instructor Sheri Castle and I tried to dissect this sauce and can't get it right. I never leave the place without a couple of bottles. While different, the barbecue is excellent and worth a detour to visit.

Stamey's, Greensboro

Looping back down U.S. 29, we enter true Lexington-style territory in Greensboro, home of Stamey's Barbecue. The restaurant is a living tribute to founder C. Warner Stamey, the man who more than anyone spread the gospel of Lexington-style barbecue. Still hardwood-smoked in the pits built by Stamey, the meat is permeated by beautiful wood nuances. They chop their barbecue a bit finer than other Lexington-style houses, so I prefer the sliced (which is really pulled chunks). The dip is mild, but the red slaw has a bite, and, together with the pork, create a great thing. Chip Stamey, Warner's grandson, now runs the place and vows not to change anything unless forced to. My major beef with Stamey's (other than chopping the meat too fine) is their unwillingness to serve you "outside brown," a given right in most Lexington joints. If you want a treat, order a whole smoked shoulder from Stamey's around Christmas time, and chop or pull it to your liking.

Lexington Barbecue, Lexington

Of course, our barbecue tour must include a stop in Lexington, which lies south on I-85, with a turn west on U.S. 64. Lexington, much like Wilson in the East, is hallowed ground to barbecue enthusiasts. Countless barbecue believers have made the pilgrimage to Lexington Barbecue, also known as Lexington No. 1 or "Honey Monk's," after owner Wayne "Honey" Monk. Lexington Barbecue has become famous not because "Honey" was a good promoter or traveled all over spouting the virtues of his 'cue. His children are firmly entrenched in the business and just as dedicated as Honey Monk. In fact, you can't get him away from home. When the James Beard Foundation named his joint as a great regional restaurant, he was in Lexington when the award was handed out. He doesn't ship his barbecue or cater. His reputation is all about his barbecue, its flavor and consistency.

He apprenticed with the legendary Warner Stamey and learned his lessons well, but I suspect that his East Tennessee upbringing has affected his desire for perfection and smoke. They separate the meat, giving you the option of ordering what you enjoy. I'm a fan of "outside brown" sliced, but his standard blend of coarsely chopped is an absolute balance of all the types. The meat is lightly sauced with the dip in the kitchen. For more boldness, try their smokehouse sauce on the tables. Sure, there are plenty of great barbecue houses in Lexington, but this one is the gold standard. You'll never get a so-so plate at Lexington Barbecue.

Barbecue Center, Lexington

Another of the multitude of barbecue joints that dot the city of Lexington like pepper is the Barbecue Center. Being right downtown helps them to stand out, as do their wood-burning pits, which get a lot of attention from film and TV camera crews. "Bobby Flay was just in," owner Sonny Conrad tells me. "He really liked my 'cue." So did I, in this no-frills place with curb service still available. The Barbecue Center is a good example of what Lexington style is all about -- very moist and tender meat, very coarsely chopped and with great texture. They separate out the different types of meat, white and dark from the shoulder, allowing you to order your favorite part. The chopped is always full of nice smoky pieces of "outside brown." The dip has that sweet-vinegar taste that works well with the meat and is kept warm, as at many Lexington restaurants, in a coffee pot. And, of course, there's the spicy red slaw.

Like The Skyline Inn in Ayden, they tend to add the fat as well, which creates flavor, but occasionally makes a batch that's too greasy. Their sliced is the way to go, with lots of tasty, crunchy outside brown.

Alston Bridges, Shelby

Our last stop, way south down N.C. 150, almost in South Carolina, is Alston Bridges Barbecue in Shelby. Alston Bridges learned barbecue secrets from his brother-in-law, Warner Stamey. Now, Alston Bridges Barbecue is being run by its third generation of Bridgeses. I was amused watching Reid Bridges, the current owner, doctor his barbecue sandwich with lots of Texas Pete and chopped green chiles. "Well, when you eat them every day, you got to do something different," he says.

Bridges has gone to electric cooking of his shoulders, but still finishes them over a white oak charcoal. The result is pretty good 'cue. The sauce seems to have a bit more tomato product and less sugar than many Lexington styles, and his red slaw is not as peppery. The sliced barbecue is the best, especially when ordered with "outside brown" and extra dip. The Bridgeses have almost as many customers from Charlotte and Morganton as Shelby. Even with the electric crutch, they are producing good barbecue. Try the baked beans instead of another side dish.


Dennis Rogers, a columnist, adds some more:

In Wilson is Bill's Barbecue. Owner Bill Ellis has spread the gospel of Eastern North Carolina barbecue across the country with his fleet of catering trucks that range from small panel trucks to 18-wheelers. His country cooking buffet is nothing short of amazing.

And over in Kinston, beachgoers and office seekers alike can't help but pull off U.S. 70 to eat at King's Barbecue. King's ships barbecue around the world, thanks to the miracles of air express and dry ice. Pigs, indeed, can fly.

It is easier to find bagels than barbecue in the Triangle, but old-timers swear by the Barbecue Lodge on Capitol Boulevard, Holden's Barbecue in Youngsville, Cooper's in downtown Raleigh, Bullock's in Durham, Ole Time Barbecue and Danny's in Cary, and Stephenson's between Garner and Benson.

Franchise restaurants rarely excel, but there is a new outfit getting attention from even the most curmudgeonly barbecue purists: The BBQ and Ribs Co., which opened this year in Raleigh. The secret is the wood smoke that too many barbecue joints stopped using. They shouldn't have.

Once you've sampled a few of these places, you'll be ready for the Brigadoon of Barbecue, the hard-to-find and harder to forget B's in Greenville. No advertising, no phone, no air conditioning. They open at 11 a.m. and close when the pig's gone, so don't dilly-dally around. Part of the fun is finding the place -- hint: it's near Pitt Memorial Hospital -- and don't be surprised if it's so crowded you have to eat off the hood of your car. You won't be the only one. This is as good as it gets.


http://www.newsobserver.com/print/su...-9265481c.html
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Old Oct 18, 2005, 1:10 pm
  #137  
 
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Old Dec 28, 2005, 3:06 pm
  #138  
 
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Atlanta area BBQ

Fresh Air Barbeque 2 miles south of Jackson GA on US 23 (US 23 parallels I-75 between ATL and MCN, reachable for a lunch on a drive to or from FL) 770 775 3182 - classic old time BBQ. part of the stand still has a dirt floor.

Harold's Barbeque - mentioned above and have to second (Amen!)
You must have a sliced pork sandwich grilled over hickory wood fire coals. When this place goes, there won't be anything left like it. If you live anywhere near ATL and have not been to Harold's, shame on you. Classic 55 year old lunch spot. On one visit, there was a 12 GA shotgun leaning in the corner near the cash register. (cash only, of course!)
171 McDonough Boulevard, Atlanta, GA just up the street from the Federal Pen. 404 627 9268

Wallace Barbeque - 3035 Veterans Memorial Hwy (aka Bankhead Hwy) , Austell, GA 30168 770 739 1686
Sweet, perfectly cooked pork. Get the Pork & Stew plate - ask for "outside meat" for the best hickory smoke flavor, and the waitress will take you for a local!
Ribs are so-so, but the pork plate will make you throw rocks at your mama. Never had a bad forkfull of Q there in almost 20 years. Well worth the 30 minute drive out from town. take I-20 west to Thornton Rd turn right and right again on Veterans (Bankhead) Hwy - 1 mile on the right.

These aren't chains, friends!

Last edited by JT8D-217; Dec 28, 2005 at 3:21 pm
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Old Jan 2, 2006, 11:04 pm
  #139  
 
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HB's in Little Rock Ark. A northern boy's favorite pit. Smoky and sweet with a tangy hot sauce you can't get enough of.
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Old Jan 22, 2006, 6:53 pm
  #140  
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In Saveur magazine, they come out with the Saveur 100 which lists food items/restaurants they found profound.

Jim N Nicks BBQ in the Birmingham AL area was listed as being terrific.

They do pork, chicken and brisket.

--
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Old Jan 23, 2006, 5:28 pm
  #141  
 
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Being a North Carolina girl, I love my BBQ. There is nothing I have found here in California that is even close to being what I know as BBQ..

But, I see someone has already mentioned Garys BBQ in China Grove, NC, which I will 2nd. I was just there over Christmas and ended up eating my weight in foot long hot dogs which is also something you cant get here...

A lot of places at home though arent as good as they use to be, a lot of places have put in electric cookers and done away with the smokers they use to have, so it does make a difference in the taste. I was at one place and it was just so nasty I didnt eat it and I'd been there before and it was yummy, and yep! they had switched to electric cookers and there meat was now brought in frozen on a truck. Just ask before trying places. Like Forrest said, "ya never know what you're gonna get"...lol
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Old Jan 31, 2006, 9:01 am
  #142  
 
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Now this is a thread that I feel I have something to offer.

Cincinnati - Mongomery Inn - very good, nice view on the river, but the wrong setting for BBQ, I don't want a cloth napkin. When in Cincinnati this is my second food stop, after a stop for Chili (Skyline or Gold Star, either way you can't go wrong.

Birmingham Tuscaloosa - Dreamland - the ribs themselves have disappoined me, but I love the sauce, and would be content with a loaf of fresh bread and a cup of sauce. This is a must stop at sort of place when in town.

Memphis - For all you Northwest Flyers, don't buy the Corkey's hype and spend you layover in the airport at the Interstate BBQ stand (they compete with Corkey's in the airport). Here is the tip of the day, that I haven't read about yet, when in Memphis take a new approach to Rendezvous, and call 3 days in advance (you have to, otherwise no dice) and order the 5 lbs. of BBQ Shrip. Costs about $120. Feeds me and 3 friends, or 6 normal people. You get a giant pot of shrip swimming in sauce and all the bread you can eat. I will take this meal over the dry rub ribs any day. Only comes in 5 lbs. and you must call at least 2 or 3 days in advance.

Best BBQ I ever had (don't laugh at me, I'm serious) was in Boca Raton and Delray Beach Florida at Tom's and Tom Jr.'s. They are closed now, but they were unreal.
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Old Feb 4, 2006, 8:33 am
  #143  
 
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Roswell, GA joint: the Swallow at the Hollow

My absolute local favorite is the Swallow at the Hollow in Roswell, GA just north of Atlanta and now Sandy Springs. Traditional pulled pork with good flavor, texutre, and color; they serve three types of sauces. The ribs are also very good, but the real secret is the biscuits which my wife, a native Southerner, absolutely loves.

Here's a link: http://www.theswallowatthehollow.com/
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Old Jun 28, 2006, 7:57 am
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Bump thread.
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Old Jun 28, 2006, 8:13 am
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Northeast AL BBQs

I will be traveling to Northeast Alabama for vacation (Gadsden, Fort Payne, Dadeville, Anniston/Osford, Boaz). Anyone have suggestions for very good Q in those areas? Probably not going over as far as Huntsville or Decatur - I am familiar with what lies over there!!

Thanks.
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Old Dec 6, 2006, 1:03 pm
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bump thread.
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Old Dec 6, 2006, 3:36 pm
  #147  
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North of Nashville, TN

Sorry I can't help with Alabama. But I can add my thoughts for the Middle-Tennessee area.

If your in Nashville, instead of driving south, go north to Hendersonville and there is a little BBQ place called Center Point Barbeque that is truly excellent.
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Old Dec 7, 2006, 8:05 am
  #148  
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Originally Posted by hackensacknj
I will be traveling to Northeast Alabama for vacation (Gadsden, Fort Payne, Dadeville, Anniston/Osford, Boaz). Anyone have suggestions for very good Q in those areas? Probably not going over as far as Huntsville or Decatur - I am familiar with what lies over there!!

Thanks.
Sorry I missed this round of the eternal BBQ thread.

In Jacksonville, try Cooter Browns's on Hwy 204, a couple miles west of JSU. The ribs are the feature, but the BBQ pork sandwich is decent too.

Also in Jacksonville, The Rocket serves a full menu, but I like the BBQ sandwich there as well.

In Anniston, on Hwy 21 north of the city, just before you get to Fort McClellan, Dad's BBQ does a decent job with pork. It appears they smoke meat in a separate building, but I can't recall seeing smoke. However, you will smell the barbeque before you arrive in the parking lot - which they share with K-Mart. They've opened a second outlet on Noble Street, but I've not been there. Being downtown and newer, it may have a nicer atmosphere, but I still like the old one.

In Oxford, on South Quintard (Hwy 431) , there a place I like, I think it's the Old Smokehouse, but I can't clearly recall the name. Very good cue.

There are others, but I haven't tried them except one. I cannot recommend them so I will not provide them with any free advertising here.

Only Cooter Brown's has a liquor license. The others are more fast food style outlets. And when I want barbeque, I expect pulled pork on a bun. Slaw, dill pickle slices and sauce should be optional and available on the side.
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Old Dec 20, 2006, 10:35 am
  #149  
 
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Originally Posted by biggs
NC barbeque places

Gary's-China Grove
Lexington-Lexington
Speedys-Lexington
Wilbers-Goldsboro (my CT sister-in-law loves this place)
Parkers-Wilson

Remember, barbeque is a religion in NC and there is eastern style and western style. Also all others, such as the lower Carolinas and TX beef (sacrilege!), are heresies. Enjoy!
Yeah, WILBUR's! Go with at least 4 or 6 adults and get the family style dinner.

I wish I could remember this really good place over in Raleigh.

Actually, I thought there were three styles in NC?

Another good one or two is Pierces in Williamsburg, VA and Extra Billy's in Richmond. I can't remember the name of the other good one in Richmond any more. They had two or three locations at one time.
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Old Dec 20, 2006, 10:36 am
  #150  
 
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Originally Posted by hackensacknj
I will be traveling to Northeast Alabama for vacation (Gadsden, Fort Payne, Dadeville, Anniston/Osford, Boaz). Anyone have suggestions for very good Q in those areas? Probably not going over as far as Huntsville or Decatur - I am familiar with what lies over there!!

Thanks.
If you're familiar with HSV, which is your preference. BBQ from the Greenbriar BBQ or Greenbriar Restaurant? What do you think of Dreamlands?
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