RichardInSF

Based on your suggestions and Musken's great reviews of Amanbagh, Aman-i-khas, and Jaipur, I am leaning towards doing the trip like this:

Delhi -- 2 nights (Oct 24-26) (TBD)
Agra -- 2 nights (Oct 26-28) (Amarvillas)
Amanbagh -- 3 nights (Oct 28 - 31)
Aman-i-khas -- 3 nights (Oct 31 - Nov 3)
Jaipur -- 2 nights (Nov 3 - 5) (Rambagh Palace)
As yet unspecified -- 3 nights (Nov 5 - 8) Jodpur or Udaipur?
Delhi because I don't want to miss the return flight by a late inbound domestic flight (Nov 8 -- 9)

It doesn't take a lot of work to fill up a vacation pretty darn quickly. Would still be missing so very much that I would like to see, but it looks like I'd at least get to some fine hotels.

How does one get from Agra to Amanbagh? Drive back to Delhi from Agra, fly to Jaipur, and then drive to Amanbagh? That seems like it would certainly fill up a day that would not be much fun.. Be nice if there was a faster way but I can't find flights from Agra to most anywhere, what am I missing? Kind of scared of air charter in India, btw.

uclabruin82

Amanbagh will pick you up in Agra. About 3.5-4 hour drive

chinmoylad

Agree with this.

Also agree with this. I had the same issue - we were the only ones not to see tigers (but saw leopards - as you said, apparently rarer...we saw them in Ranthambore though, didn't do Sariska although stayed at Amanbagh), but everyone else I spoke to staying at Aman-i-Khas saw tigers.

The way I spun it, those damn tigers are scared of me - sent his leopard lieutenant to spy on me They know who the REAL king of the jungle is...YEA!

No point going around - just go direct from Agra to Amanbagh.

Could hire a driver + car, either through the resort/hotel (expensive of course) or independently. I've previously used Tour and Travel Company | India Travel Agency | India By Car And Driver as the 'budget' option (relative to the hotel's prices). They're a bit difficult to deal with (the back end team) but bear with them. I found the drivers most assisting, friendly and knowledgeable. They came as a recommendation from someone else who used them (and also stayed at both Amans etc.

If you're doing multiple trips around the region jumping from place to place, and not using train/flight, it's best to get a driver+car for the duration of the trip - a ~7 day trip will cost you approx USD 500 - 1,500 depending on what car you opt for and other things you take on board (activities etc). This will also cover the driver's lodging and food costs (they have to stay somewhere) but of course always good to tip and/or offer for the driver to join you for meals, especially during transit.

The drives through the countryside are interesting - wouldn't say they're necessarily comfortable or breathtaking (not exactly the Pacific Coast) but they can be scenic (the Aravali Hills is a very unique range) and they offer a good glimpse into countryside/village life, even if you're just passing by. And it's only a 4-5 hour drive from Agra, 5-6 with a stopover for lunch/tea.

blueline7

With regards to travelling from Agra to Amanbagh, we used the Aman car service, which was longish and expensive. If you can find a private car service that is cheaper, that would be great, but IMHO it would have to be substantially cheaper in order to make up for the risk of the driver not finding Amanbagh properly, as it is off the beaten track and with a longish drive already, it would be frustrating to get lost or be delayed.

That itin looks good. My only hesitation would be Rambagh Palace in Jaipur. Although I did not stay there, I did visit for an afternoon while in transit after leaving Amanbagh on the wait to the JAI airport. We found the place to be superficially an impressive palace and grounds, but we found it underwhelming in terms of the food and service while we were there, and also found the place soulless and far less impressive compared to Taj Falaknuma, which was sublime. We had no interest in staying there after visiting, but of course we didn't get a full taste. We also found Jaipur to be underwhelming, and did not live up to our expectations of the so-called "Pink City". Actually, my other hesitation with your itin, is you may be getting a bit too much country and not enough rock n roll, with so much time spent in the Rajastan country side at Amanbaugh and Aman-i-khas, relative to your total trip length. I would be tempted to do Amanbagh and then perhaps leave Aman-i-khas for another time, perhaps in favour of Udaipur, Jodpur (based upon Bhrubin's review), or even Mumbai. Mumbai has a lot of interesting things to see, and the Taj Palace is something to be experienced, particularly in one of their suites. I would also highly recommend Varanassi if you can fit that in. Nedassar Palace was a good place to stay there. The tours there were sublime. Of course, there is months of things to see in India and only so much one can do with 16 days and travel time between spots, so sacrifices and compromises are required. One last thing I would point out, is that intercity travel by airplane, even in economy, was always smooth, cheap, and pleasant, especially considered to US/Canadian domestic.

bhrubin

blueline7

Well said!

RichardInSF

I have the feeling that Varanasi is rather far from the portion of India where I will spend most of my time, although admittedly it does give an opportunity to see the Ganges area. Still, it could be possible to do Varanasi right after Delhi and then fly on the (Monday, Wednesday, Saturday) Air India nonstop to Agra mentioned earlier in this thread by EfficientTraveler.

If one had to pick only one of the two Amans (Amanagh and Aman-i-khas), why not go to Aman-i-khas for the tigers? I had picked both because there is a 6 day package that includes 3 nights at each and is almost all-inclusive, although the rate is not published on the Aman web page so it may not be a deal after all. Does anyone know? Also, if you don't get an all-meal inclusive rate, are they at least fairly reasonable about their charges for meals?

For example:

Delhi -- 2 nights (Oct 24-26) (TBD)
Varanasi -- 3 nights (Oct 26-29) (Taj Nadesar Palace)
Agra -- 2 nights (Oct 29-31) (Amarvillas)
Amanbagh -- 3 nights (Oct 31-Nov 3)
Aman-i-khas -- 3 nights (Nov 3-6) (or maybe not)
As yet unspecified -- 2 nights (Nov 6-8) Jaipur, Jodpur or Udaipur?
Delhi because I don't want to miss the return flight by a late inbound domestic flight (Nov 8 -- 9)

bhrubin

beachfan

Just a data point, we were disappointed in the Indian food at Oberoi Amarvillas. Certainly very elegant, but the Indian food was clearly made for a somewhat timid Western palate. One of our blandest meals of the trip.

SojournsOf

I've been looking at India on and off but keep having to shelve it when it comes time to decide to book or not. You could probably get away with one night in Agra with careful planning in terms of sightseeing (Taj evening, Tag morning, stop by the fort, drive to Amanbagh via Fatehpur Sikri). That way you can have three nights somewhere like Udaipur at the end of your trip. Or throw a single night in at Jaipur to see some sights there.

blueline7

Well said, again. My personal feeling is that Amanbagh is a primary destination and Aman-i-khas more of a secondary destination, but that is pure personal preference, and said without having gone to Aman-i-khas as of yet.

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I also agree with this. But we found the chefs charming and helpful and they even invited us into the kitchen for a tour. So based upon that, I would push for better food from them and not rely upon them to deliver without specific instructions.

I agree that you can manage some adjustments, Richard. For example;

Delhi -- 2 nights (Oct 24-26) (TBD)
Varanasi -- 3 nights (Oct 26-29) (Taj Nadesar Palace) - Change this to TWO NIGHTS. More than enough IMHO.
Agra -- 2 nights (Oct 29-31) (Amarvillas) - JUST RIGHT IMHO, although one night is entirely manageable and that is what we did.
Amanbagh -- 3 nights (Oct 31-Nov 3) - PERFECT.
Aman-i-khas -- 3 nights (Nov 3-6) (or maybe not) - IMHO, can leave it for next time, or do instead of Amanbagh.
As yet unspecified -- 2 nights (Nov 6-8) Jaipur, Jodpur or Udaipur? - I WOULD THINK UDAIPUR over Jodpur and Jaipur, unless it was one night for transiting purposes.
Delhi because I don't want to miss the return flight by a late inbound domestic flight (Nov 8 -- 9)

With the above adjustments, you have plenty of time for even more...

beachfan

Surprised at the one night in Agra suggestion. Even with the new road, it took 6 plus hours to drive from Delhi (left at 7pm)

for me, the Taj was the highlight of both my trips to India, and the lesser sites in Agra are major sites elsewhere(baby Taj, Akbars mausoleum, both impressed me more than the fort).

chinmoylad

That depends I think. If you've done African safaris, then yes you'll leave Aman-i-Khas disappointed if you went there to see a tiger and didn't. If it's your first safari, I think you'll still enjoy the experience. Plus there is other interesting/unique wildlife besides tigers, and the Ranthambore Fort excursion is worth doing.

As an alternative, there are also other luxe but more reasonably priced (relatively) options at Ranthambore - Sher Bagh by SUJAN would be the next best. Oberoi also has a camp there although it's more of a resort/hotel than a proper tented camp ala Aman-i-Khas/Sher Bagh, but that might combine well pricewise with Oberoi Amarvilas/Oberoi Delhi or other Oberois you wish to stay at during your stay.

KI-NRT

Right on. In no universe that I live in would I consider a stay at Aman-i-khas a memorable one without seeing any tigers. And someone that's serious about tigers wouldn't stay at Aman-i-khas to begin with. The Oberoi Vanyavilas is superior in every which way. All of the guides I spoke with (during our Tiger sojourn) said that Aman-i-khas loses in the guiding department. In fact, one of my guides at Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve freelances throughout India to train Tiger guides, and he said it's no contest in Ranthambore..... Oberoi all the way.

Not to mention, Bandhavgarh, Kanha and Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve have all long ago surpassed Ranthambore as premier Tiger destinations, with Mahua Kothi (Bandhavgarh) and Banjaar Tola (Kanha) offering luxury that approaches Aman levels (if not surpassing them.. I have not stayed at A-i-K.)

That doesn't mean Ranthambore (and A-i-K) are without merit. It makes for a very convenient tour when combined with the Golden Triangle locations. But purely as a tiger destination, there are better options out there.

chinmoylad

Well purely as a tiger destination, one should go with the photographers and/or perhaps camp out in the woods with a real tent. But this is not a tiger forum.

I visited the Oberoi Vanyanvilas. I am not sure about the guides/tigers, but I didn't think the Oberoi was superior in any way as a resort to Aman-i-Khas, other than being more of a family destination.

Without having been to the others, wildlife photographers etc I've spoken to - agree that Ranthambore is not the premier tiger destination.