Call the travel agent. My guess is you are OK. It is my understanding that tickets bought for non Argentine citizens are full fare. Not sure what that means but hope for the best.

Thanks for the fast response ned. I have an email out to her and hope I hear back tomorrow morning. I paid the cheaper Argentina fare since I was working with her, but I am going to cross my fingers. I bought 2 roundtrip tix totalling about $420US (BA - USH, BA - Iguazu). I hope I can salvage some of it.

In other news, if I can rejigger my schedule it looks like I will have to split an award stay btwn the Marriott and Hilton due to availability. Is it going to be painful to move over from the Hilton to the Marriott one night?

A cheap cab ride both ways and you should be fine. It's a reasonably quick cab ride as the distance is not large.

BA Shopping Observations
 

Today I finish a great week in Buenos Aires. As I was reading the paper today, there was a story on the 12 percent annual inflation and a statement that inflation has gone up 72.2 percent since the 2002 peso devaluation. That could be key to what I found here when shopping. While food and cabs are cheap, consumer goods are not necessarily so.
We thought we would buy a leather jacket for my husband to replace his well worn one at home. We found the prices substantially higher and the coats were much lighter (no insulation or liners) than the ones we use for our East Coast winters. SOmeone made an observation that you can buy coats a lot cheaper in the Wilson leather stores you find in US malls. Now some of the designs are very nice and there is a wide choice of types of leather, but you wouldnt buy due to the cheaper prices. I heard some people in the Hilton raving about their $300 to $400 coats and how they would cost $700 in the US but I would not be buying in that price range.

What I did buy I bought primarily in San Telmo during the Sunday fair. We got some very nice quality wallets in different leathers for $7 to $8 and I got a fabulous purse done by an artisan with designs in colored leather for $29 at a street market. I got some nice German watches on Calle Lavalle for $15 to $18 and I went to the Cordon (a chain of stores selling leather goods and clothing) outlet in Honduras street in Palermo Soho and got some discontinued jackets for $20. When in San Antonio de Areco on our Pampas tour, we stopped at Draghi, a renowed silver artisan. I bought a gorgeous silver medallion necklace with chain for $80 and it is something tremendous.

For a nice food souvenir, I bought alfajores, the specialty cookies with either dulce de leche (caramel) or chocolate mousse filling at Havanna stores for $5.50 for a box of twelve.

Bottom line was for me to know what I wanted and the price I wanted to pay and look for items that are well crafted and unusual that I will treasure.

I was in EZE for about the same time and did a quick weekend trip up to Iguazu falls with no problem. We went directly to Iguazu (transfered from EZE to AEP) and spent 2 nights there. I think that is all that you would need on a hurried trip. We loved both Iguazu and Buenos Aires.

I'll be in BA 1/28 - 2/5. I'll be staying in the provincia de Vicente Lopez.

Eddie

I'm flying UA from LAX to ORD then UA onto EZE 1/27-28 and then returning UA from EZE to IAD then UA onto LAX on 2/5-6.

Any flights the same?

I've actually booked a couple of side trips (Iguazu, Montevideo, and Punta del Este; see http://flyertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=500545 ) from EZE.

My first time to Argentina and Uruguay; I've traveled to Chile (Temuco y Santiago) in the past. I love Chile.

WARNING: 3 Peso currency frauds in 4 hours
 

Just back from BsAs (Hi Silverspringer!) and loved my visit except for one thing - counterfeit currency. I was warned and learned what to look for but I had no problems for my first five days and was no prepared for what happened in the space of just 4 hours on a Sunday.

WARNING - DO NO USE THE BANCO FRANCES ATM

Coming back from having spent all my days money at San Telmo market, I got 400 pesos in 4 one hundred peso notes from the Banco Frances ATM on Florida Street 288.

Then I asked my hotel to change 100 into smaller bills.

Took a cab to meet Silverspringer and husband for dinner at (LA CABALERRIZW -- sp????) in Peuto Madero, paid for my dinner with another 100 note - got back about 60 pesos change (yes, dinner was only $13).

Then I took a cab back to my hotel and when it came time to pay, he informed my that ALL my notes were counterfeit, including 2 of the 100 peso notes I got from the BANCO FRANCES ATM. Only one 50 note was good which was too big for him to change, so I paid US$2 for the cab fare.

I immediately took the matter to the hotel desk who changed one of the 100 notes into smaller bills (50, 2x20, 1x10) and naturally they claimed it wasw not possible I got the bad notes from them. And indeed holding them up to the light showed they were all bad, except for the on 50 note.

The next day I went to the BANCO FRANCES and got nowhere with them. I showed they my receipt of the ATM transaction and they insisted it was not possible I got the bad notes from them. I had no large money left until I got that 400 peso withdrawal from them. It not only was possible, in fact I did get false notes from their ATM.

And it appeared by calculating out what other false notes I had, that both the restaurant and my hotel had also given me some false notes -either inadvertent or as I suspect at the restaurant, advertent.

That day I went to the main tourism office on Santa Fe and was referred to the Centro district police station - a translator was sent over and I filed a police report against BANCO FRANCES - they took my remaining counterfiet bills and that was the end of that. I could not figure out where I got the remaining bad notes or where I got the one good one so I dropped the rest of the charges, but did speak sternly to my hotel.

So it was an expensive lesson but one I am happy to share the lessons I learned:

1. Don't use BANCO FRANCES ATM (Banco Patagonia was across from the police station on Lavalle Street 400 and they claimed they did all their banking there)

2. Don't use an ATM when the branch is not open if you can help it.

3. Always check your bills for the watermark - even though you feel dorky doing it -- I explained when I started doing it that I lost 400 pesos, and the shop keepers were sympathetic, not insulted, I was checking. They indicated false notes were a major problem.

4. Assume you will get false bills - particularly going where tourists go. Hopefully they will only be small ones.

5. Use as many small bills as possible so you reduce getting change. Always check, even a bank, when getting larger bills broken down.

6. Know the tourism office has a special number and will help you file a police report.

7. Budget for this to happen and don't let it ruin your trip -- remember in the 1950/60 this was pretty common in Europe as well - lots of bad change or wrong notes. Now it is Argentina's turn.

8. I still loved BsAs, but I didn't get a leather jacket because of the money I lost -- but someone else made the money off of me.

9. And I still really liked my little hotel - I do think I got the one good 50 peso note from them because the bad 50 peso ooo obvious. Whereas I just took the change from the restuarant bill without looking - a little wine with friends and my guard was down. The smaller bad bills looked pretty good, and looked like they had been in circulation for a while so I will write that one off as just carelessness on the part of my hotel.

10. Yes, it feels dorky holding each bill up to the light to make sure it has a watermark, but that is the easiest way. Others could read a very small strip of print or just feel the quality of the paper - though that one was not as obvoius to me. Learn what to look for -- and hopefully you will see some bad notes so you can tell good from bad. I know now, and went one being a far more savvy tourist -- and a happy one.

sbagal

Lavalle and Florida - my Heart of BsAs
 

We all have our favorite neighborhoods, but I loved being in the Hotel Grand King, Lavalle 560, a small local hotel --very basic rooms, though they have up graded "VIP" rooms which would be better.

I got a very cheap flight/hotel package with Orbitz - LAX - 8 nights hotel with very adequate breakfast for $1000, taxes included. So I think I had one of the worst rooms in the hotel, but it was quiet, clean, nice sized well lighted bathroom, plenty of hot water, nice lobby, very helpful staff -- but with the one currency change problem as previously noted -- took the bloom off the visit. The room was cramped with bad carpet and unbecoming decor, but felt clean.

It was the location I loved. It was always alive and had fun restaurants to try all the way up Lavalle to the famous Tomo I on the corner near the Obelisk. It was in walking distance to Teatro Colon and I felt safe not only walking home from the opera, but stopping at La Estancia after the opera for late dinner (11 pm). Families with children were still arriving for dinner at that late hour. There were always people on the streets and shops open even that late.

Plus I learned the main police station was just one block away from my hotel on 400 Lavalle (note to silverspringer -that is why we saw so many police cars on that less busy block the night you got your taxi - we thought there was a problem, Just the opposite)

There was always street theater on these two pedestrian malls - music, tango, magic shows, acrobats. Everything you would want was within a few blocks and easy access to two different subway lines at Florida going cross town and Lavalle going up and down town.

Things got more elegant once you crossed Cordova street up to San Martin, and upscale visitors would find the Marriott Plaza to be a really well located hotel in my opinion to have more elegance, but still be in a very lively part of town. Santa Fe street was another street that I could walk on forever - again with well placed subway stops all along Santa Fe street ending at Retiro train station.

I do recommend the Hotel Grand King expecially for its location, but with the above cautions - rooms are drab and dated, very basic services, but BSAS was at my feet so I didn't spend much time there. And I wish I could have eaten in every restaurant all the way up and down Lavelle -from both excellent to cheap.

The Cafe Richmond around the corner from Lavalle is still grand old Buenos Aires for an afternoon tea. La Estancia was still pretty darn good for chorizo (rib steak) and at prices about 1/3 of Cabana Las Lilas which was the best - no question. But late at night, La Estancia was local. And does anyone do chimmichurri sauce better than Estancia? I piled it on - yum, yum

Other Lavalle Restaurants: I had the tourist menu at El Palacio de Senior Papas Fritas for a pretty good $9 dinner, with their wonderful "souffle" fried potatoes -- you have to try them to know what I mean. The chorizo was okay, and equal to other places so one goes here for price, not quality.

"Sie Tu" for gelato was wonderful - the Dolce de Leche Sei Tu was full of chocolate crunchies and swirls of vanilla and dolce de leche gelato.

So like the hotel, the food on Lavalle was basic but good. The splurge at the end of Lavalle at Carlos Pelligrini at Tomo I was pleasant. Met silverspringer and her husband and we all chose the daily menu for dinner - dining alone there at 7:30 pm, but by 9pm, the place was full and lively.

The menu was interesting and varied, the service really wonderful, the setting very nice, location easy to get to ....but sorry to say the food itself was just not that inspired. There was nothing in the flavors that was really raptuous.

Or maybe, it was just too refined for our BsAS meat-eating hearts. I love great restuarants and will scimp on hotels and spend lavishly on great food if I have to make a choice -- so I am not one with an under-developed palate -- lived in Europe for 4 years so by osmosis I learned what great dining can and should be.

So Tomo I was a very pleasant experience, and certainly well priced for what the daily menu offered, but it was not rave review foods. I am glad I went and would have kicked myself if I had missed it. And the later crowd was lively, and enjoying themselves very much. It was a special night in Argentina to experience it.

Excuse all my typos - I'm sleepy
 

Just re-read what I have written in last two notes and see all the typos - please excuse. I just got back from BsAs to LAX - LAN 600 via Chile and Peru - sleepy.

But I wanted to get the warnings out especially about the currency problems right away for anyone shortly arriving in wonderful BsAs -- I miss it!

sbagal

If it is the Marriott Plaz a Hotel on San Martin's Plaza, lucky you - I loved being in that neighborhood -- though my hotel was down (scale) a bit near the intersection of Florida and Lavalle pedestrian streets.

If you like lively street life of everyday people out and about going to work, doing their shopping, dining and always conversing and watching the street theater, the Plaza Marriott is I think a great choice.

Just back this morning - loved the city.

sbagal

I moved from the Marriott Plaza to the Hilton.

Let me put it this way: if a short, inexpensive taxi ride between two excellent properties where the car door is opened for you is considered painful to you, then I would not advise it.

Let me put it another way: if you can carry your luggage, the walk between the two properties is between 45 minutes to an hour. I know because I have walked the distance.

Regardless, you will be treated quite well at both properties.

Some cab drivers are expert at this.
 

sbagal are you sure that the cab driver who noticed all the fake currency isn't the one who was switching it? I have heard many stories of the abilities of drivers (especially in the dark) to take your real bill, switch it and claim that you just handed them a phony note. I am even more suspect about this since the 100 peso notes that you gave to the hotel and restaurant seemed to be fine. Had you considered this?

I'm from BsAs (currently living in Alexandria, VA) and I'm going over from Dec. 23rd (leaving from IAD on UA847 on the 22nd) and staying 'til Jan. 7th. (UA846). Anyone else going around that time? If so, we can probably meet and go out for some good bife de chorizo and malbec :cool: :D ^

Gaucho100K: as I told you some time ago I would like to visit your shop. Is any particular day or time that works best for you?

Cheers!!
Angel

Other false currency possibilities
 

Oh yipes! It was amazing that note after note all the sudden was false. This was a "radio cab" and I don't remember seeing anything other than handing him the bills and having him say that each of them were false and handing them back to me. And me offering another one with the same results.

If there was sleight of hand going on in the cab, it was pretty darn good. But who knows in a dark cab with some one skilled. That would again to too bad because one wants to rely on "radio cabs" as well.

Thanks for extending the possibilities - because the point reporting this was to warn others to watch out. This explanation is also a good warning ..... and another possiblity.

One other possibility (far-fetched?) is if the restaurant knew it had a false note from me, would they, rather than make a scene which would have been upsetting for all, given me false notes for change and just written the whole thing off?

But the more I think about your explanation, the more it could make sense because all the other places were fixed locations I could return to, and only the cab would have been the mobile location and impossible to track down after the discovery was made.

Lesson here was I chose to take the cab from the street in front of the restaurant rather than walk back with silverspringer to the Hilton where they dispensed cabs that they knew more about.

Again, a painful, expensive but good lesson. And makes more sense than thinking a bank would actually dispense bad notes from their ATM.

Thanks for writing about this.