Safaris from CPT
Oct 14, 2004, 7:57 pm
#1
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Safaris from CPT
Does anyone have any experience or reccomendations of a Lodge w/ 2-3 day safaris in a 3 to 4 hours drive from Cape Town?
So far Bushman's Kloof and Tinley Manor in Sanbona seem to be the top choices.
I'd love to hear any other suggestions!
many thanks in advance
So far Bushman's Kloof and Tinley Manor in Sanbona seem to be the top choices.
I'd love to hear any other suggestions!
many thanks in advance
Oct 16, 2004, 8:31 am
#2
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Depends on what kind of safari experience you are looking for.
The western Cape environment is not suited to providing a "real Africa" type of safari experience. There is of course no such thing as the "real" Africa, but first-time vistors nurtured on a diet of BBC and National Geographic documentaries shot in the Serengeti have certain expectations that Cape lodges can not live up to. First of all, the local eco systems never supported certain quintessentially African animals, e.g. giraffe, impala, white rhinoceros, blue wildebeest, etc. Secondly, these eco systems generally have a low carrying capacity, so game occurs (or should occur!) at low densities.
Lodges have responded to this challenge in different ways. Bushmans Kloof (5-5 hours by road, by the way. Air transfers are available) has chosen to emphasize other attractions than just game (they do have many species indigenous to the area, but not all that once used to occur there) : bushman rock paitings, botany, mountain biking, etc. Many other lodges, specifically those advertizing a "Big Five" experience, try to compete with lodges in (sub)tropical ecozones. Examples are Sanbona, Aquila and (a bit farther away) Shamwari. These lodges are perhaps best described as glorified zoos. All sorts of species that never occured in the area have been introduced, and look decidedly out of place to all but the most inexperienced safari guest. Stocking non-indigenous game is also not an environmentally sound policy. The necessity of stocking "Big Five" species (rhino, elephant, buffalo, lion and leopard) means that such animals may be present only in the low numbers that the area can support, or that intensive management intervention (e.g. feeding) is required.
I have not visited Sanbona, but of the lot they are probably the most serious about achieving an approximation of the natural environment as it was before western man appeared on the scene. It is still early days, and many species are still only present in low numbers. I have heard that their introduced lions have taken a fancy to their likewise introduced buffalo. That must hurt, because disease free buffalo are very expensive!
To see a broad selection of African animals in large numbers, you need to venture beyond the Cape, to Kwazulu-Natal, Mpumalanga or Limpopo in South Africa, or countries farther north and east. I should perhaps hasten to add that many of the game lodges on private land in South Africa engage in what they euphemistically call "veld management", i.e. they alter the environment iin an attempt to provide a game viewing experience in line with their clients' expectations. The difference with the Cape is that the results of such veld management generally are somewhat less obvious to the game viewing novice.
johan
The western Cape environment is not suited to providing a "real Africa" type of safari experience. There is of course no such thing as the "real" Africa, but first-time vistors nurtured on a diet of BBC and National Geographic documentaries shot in the Serengeti have certain expectations that Cape lodges can not live up to. First of all, the local eco systems never supported certain quintessentially African animals, e.g. giraffe, impala, white rhinoceros, blue wildebeest, etc. Secondly, these eco systems generally have a low carrying capacity, so game occurs (or should occur!) at low densities.
Lodges have responded to this challenge in different ways. Bushmans Kloof (5-5 hours by road, by the way. Air transfers are available) has chosen to emphasize other attractions than just game (they do have many species indigenous to the area, but not all that once used to occur there) : bushman rock paitings, botany, mountain biking, etc. Many other lodges, specifically those advertizing a "Big Five" experience, try to compete with lodges in (sub)tropical ecozones. Examples are Sanbona, Aquila and (a bit farther away) Shamwari. These lodges are perhaps best described as glorified zoos. All sorts of species that never occured in the area have been introduced, and look decidedly out of place to all but the most inexperienced safari guest. Stocking non-indigenous game is also not an environmentally sound policy. The necessity of stocking "Big Five" species (rhino, elephant, buffalo, lion and leopard) means that such animals may be present only in the low numbers that the area can support, or that intensive management intervention (e.g. feeding) is required.
I have not visited Sanbona, but of the lot they are probably the most serious about achieving an approximation of the natural environment as it was before western man appeared on the scene. It is still early days, and many species are still only present in low numbers. I have heard that their introduced lions have taken a fancy to their likewise introduced buffalo. That must hurt, because disease free buffalo are very expensive!
To see a broad selection of African animals in large numbers, you need to venture beyond the Cape, to Kwazulu-Natal, Mpumalanga or Limpopo in South Africa, or countries farther north and east. I should perhaps hasten to add that many of the game lodges on private land in South Africa engage in what they euphemistically call "veld management", i.e. they alter the environment iin an attempt to provide a game viewing experience in line with their clients' expectations. The difference with the Cape is that the results of such veld management generally are somewhat less obvious to the game viewing novice.
johan
Oct 16, 2004, 6:59 pm
#3
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chexie, aren't you flying into Joburg? Why wouldn't you rent a car and head to Kruger? I think game viewing in Kruger is terrific. There are economical places to stay throughout the park, so you can spend a couple nights different places. We stayed outside the park, at an Intercontinental Hotel property. We took game rides in the morning and evening, and also drove our own car. Game viewing was best with rangers, but it was fun to go off on our own and see what we could spot.
If I was going to fly from Joburg, we loved Addo near Port Elizabeth. I believe it has the highest concentration of elephants in the world, and we also had great viewing of lions.
Of course, if you want the best city experience in South Africa, Capetown is the place to go.
If I was going to fly from Joburg, we loved Addo near Port Elizabeth. I believe it has the highest concentration of elephants in the world, and we also had great viewing of lions.
Of course, if you want the best city experience in South Africa, Capetown is the place to go.
Oct 19, 2004, 8:07 pm
#4
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Wow!
Johan thanks so much for the tremendous insight. I am definitely going to pass this on to my travel partner to see if she has the same reaction that I do.
SanDiego1K- I'll just wait till you get back to the US to bombard you with questions like i always do!
SanDiego1K- I'll just wait till you get back to the US to bombard you with questions like i always do!
Oct 23, 2004, 7:35 am
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Originally Posted by johan rebel
I should perhaps hasten to add that many of the game lodges on private land in South Africa engage in what they euphemistically call "veld management", i.e. they alter the environment in an attempt to provide a game viewing experience in line with their clients' expectations. The difference with the Cape is that the results of such veld management generally are somewhat less obvious to the game viewing novice.
i.e. fully fenced Private zoos with a Ranger whispering to mesmerized tourists, whilst dramatically clutching his gun, that you "may" see a Lion around the next bend, when they are of course all micro tagged, and have been fed a dead chicken by another lodge Land Rover 15 minutes before. Been an industry around Kruger for 40 years.
Get thee to the REAL African wildlife chexfan, for goodness sakes!
Oct 25, 2004, 8:45 am
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The only place I know of where the big five are tagged is Karongwe. The lodge there is called Edeni. Officially, this is a scientific research project, but it just so happens that the game drives benefit too. What a coincidence!
Mala Mala used to organize nightly lion feeds in the sixties and seventies. Back then their tariff was R46 per night, fully inclusive!
Very few of the larger "Big Five" reserves are fully fenced, and those that are, e.g. Karongwe, Makalali and Selati, are located west of the veterinary "red line" (which follows the railroad). Exceptions are Kapama, Thornybush and Sandringham. The latter is a hunting lodge and technically part of the Timbavati, but fenced in on all sides. At 12,000 and 10,000 ha respectively, Kapama and Thornybush are big enough to make finding game a challenge at times.
All the other reserves, i.e. Letaba Ranch, Sabi-Sands, the Manyeleti, the Timbavati, Klaserie and Balule, are only fenced on the side where they form the outer boundary of the Greater Kruger Conservation Area. The game in these reserves therefore have the freedom to roam over an area of 2,300,000 hectares.
I'm pretty sure that none of the lodges in these reserves feed animals to enhance game viewing. What those on private land do is provide artificial water, create clearings, etc. to attract game. They also run a very slick show. Years and years of experience, intimate knowlegde of their traversing areas and the animals that occur there, very competent trackers, and a carefully planned and laid-out network of tracks ensure that the chances of locating game are maximized. If half a dozen vehicles set out in the morning or afternoon and do a modified grid search, chances are very good that they will locate what is out there sooner rather than later. The grid of tracks divides the entire reserve into blocks. The tracker perched on the front of the vehicle will see the spoor of all animals that have walked along the track or crossed it. If the spoor of an animal of interest is seen, it is simply a matter of driving around the block to see if it has emerged anywhere. If not, it will be somewhere in the block, and can be tracked and located either on foot or in the vehicle.
The use of experienced trackers is what distinguished the southern African game viewing product from that generally offered in East Africa. I personally enjoy the actual tracking, and prefer it to just driving around to see what you can find, or waiting for sightings to be called in over the radio by any of the other 120 mini-buses driving around the reserve. It could be argued that southern African rangers and trackers are simply too good, thus taking the suspense and fun out of the game drive, but this is not necessarily the case. If you are staying at a large lodge with many vehicles, or at a smaller one that shares it traversing area with a number of other lodges, the sheer number of eyes and ears out there will almost guarantee sightings. Not always, though. I've known Mala Mala to battle unsuccessfully to find leopard for several days. Many vehicles also means either sharing sightings with others, or being restricted to a 10 minute slot. On the other hand, there are places like Kwando in Botswana (highly recommended, but not cheap), where a maximum of three vehicles traverse 120,000 hectares. Boy, do they have to work hard for their sightings!
For those who are not fond of artificial clearings etc, there are always the private lodges in the Kruger National Park itself (Imbali, Jock, Honeyguide Outpost, Lukimbi, Mapanama, Singita Lebombo, Rhino Post, Tinga). These are bound by very strict rules laid down by SANParks. Getting permision to cut down a single a single tree can take a year. For various reasons (which I'd be happy to post on request) I would not recommend all of these lodges, but some are outstanding.
The bottom line : first rate game viewing can be enjoyed in South Africa and the neighboring countries (Zimbabwe, Botswana and Namibia). Those whose interest in African wildlife is superficial, who are going on their once-in-a-lifetime safari and want to stand a good chance of seeing all the big and hairy in a couple of days will find many lodges catering to their needs. OK, the clearings may be artificial, but a novice can't tell the difference anyway. For the purist there are plenty of options as well.
Specifically in South Africa, there are many upmarket lodges that offer more than game viewing alone. Wellness centers, massage, aromatherapy, gyms, even tennis courts, you name it. Personally, it make my neck hairs stand on end, but apparently there is a market for such services too.
johan
Mala Mala used to organize nightly lion feeds in the sixties and seventies. Back then their tariff was R46 per night, fully inclusive!
Very few of the larger "Big Five" reserves are fully fenced, and those that are, e.g. Karongwe, Makalali and Selati, are located west of the veterinary "red line" (which follows the railroad). Exceptions are Kapama, Thornybush and Sandringham. The latter is a hunting lodge and technically part of the Timbavati, but fenced in on all sides. At 12,000 and 10,000 ha respectively, Kapama and Thornybush are big enough to make finding game a challenge at times.
All the other reserves, i.e. Letaba Ranch, Sabi-Sands, the Manyeleti, the Timbavati, Klaserie and Balule, are only fenced on the side where they form the outer boundary of the Greater Kruger Conservation Area. The game in these reserves therefore have the freedom to roam over an area of 2,300,000 hectares.
I'm pretty sure that none of the lodges in these reserves feed animals to enhance game viewing. What those on private land do is provide artificial water, create clearings, etc. to attract game. They also run a very slick show. Years and years of experience, intimate knowlegde of their traversing areas and the animals that occur there, very competent trackers, and a carefully planned and laid-out network of tracks ensure that the chances of locating game are maximized. If half a dozen vehicles set out in the morning or afternoon and do a modified grid search, chances are very good that they will locate what is out there sooner rather than later. The grid of tracks divides the entire reserve into blocks. The tracker perched on the front of the vehicle will see the spoor of all animals that have walked along the track or crossed it. If the spoor of an animal of interest is seen, it is simply a matter of driving around the block to see if it has emerged anywhere. If not, it will be somewhere in the block, and can be tracked and located either on foot or in the vehicle.
The use of experienced trackers is what distinguished the southern African game viewing product from that generally offered in East Africa. I personally enjoy the actual tracking, and prefer it to just driving around to see what you can find, or waiting for sightings to be called in over the radio by any of the other 120 mini-buses driving around the reserve. It could be argued that southern African rangers and trackers are simply too good, thus taking the suspense and fun out of the game drive, but this is not necessarily the case. If you are staying at a large lodge with many vehicles, or at a smaller one that shares it traversing area with a number of other lodges, the sheer number of eyes and ears out there will almost guarantee sightings. Not always, though. I've known Mala Mala to battle unsuccessfully to find leopard for several days. Many vehicles also means either sharing sightings with others, or being restricted to a 10 minute slot. On the other hand, there are places like Kwando in Botswana (highly recommended, but not cheap), where a maximum of three vehicles traverse 120,000 hectares. Boy, do they have to work hard for their sightings!
For those who are not fond of artificial clearings etc, there are always the private lodges in the Kruger National Park itself (Imbali, Jock, Honeyguide Outpost, Lukimbi, Mapanama, Singita Lebombo, Rhino Post, Tinga). These are bound by very strict rules laid down by SANParks. Getting permision to cut down a single a single tree can take a year. For various reasons (which I'd be happy to post on request) I would not recommend all of these lodges, but some are outstanding.
The bottom line : first rate game viewing can be enjoyed in South Africa and the neighboring countries (Zimbabwe, Botswana and Namibia). Those whose interest in African wildlife is superficial, who are going on their once-in-a-lifetime safari and want to stand a good chance of seeing all the big and hairy in a couple of days will find many lodges catering to their needs. OK, the clearings may be artificial, but a novice can't tell the difference anyway. For the purist there are plenty of options as well.
Specifically in South Africa, there are many upmarket lodges that offer more than game viewing alone. Wellness centers, massage, aromatherapy, gyms, even tennis courts, you name it. Personally, it make my neck hairs stand on end, but apparently there is a market for such services too.
johan
Oct 25, 2004, 11:09 am
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johan, that is the clearest and most fascinating discussion about the operation of the private game reserves in South Africa I have seen. Your description of the grid system and spoor tracking educated me enormously as to how these parks work.
Thank you so much!
Thank you so much!
Oct 26, 2004, 3:49 am
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Its a pleasure.
Those flying into Hoedspruit Eastgate airport (HDS) will, if the aircraft lands on runway 36 (i.e. in a northerly direction) have an opportunity to study the road network in the Kapama reserve. It is a perfect example of a well designed grid, which devides the entire reserve into fairly small blocks. The network has been laid out in such a way that no road, with the exception of former farm boundaries (known as cutlines in South Africa), runs straight for any greater distance. They twist and turn and follow terrain features such as dongas (dry riverbeds), so that the average guest on a game drive will soon lose his bearings, never realising that the vehicle is methodically quartering the terrain.
A dense road network, and therefore small blocks, obviously makes locating game easier. The new reserves inside the Kruger National Park are at a disadvantage in this respect, because SANParks has only allowed very limited road construction. Singita Lebombo seems to be the exception, but they have recently managed to upset SANParks. They applied for and received permission to construct another 24 kms of roads, and then built 32 kms, thinking that nobody would notice.
johan
Those flying into Hoedspruit Eastgate airport (HDS) will, if the aircraft lands on runway 36 (i.e. in a northerly direction) have an opportunity to study the road network in the Kapama reserve. It is a perfect example of a well designed grid, which devides the entire reserve into fairly small blocks. The network has been laid out in such a way that no road, with the exception of former farm boundaries (known as cutlines in South Africa), runs straight for any greater distance. They twist and turn and follow terrain features such as dongas (dry riverbeds), so that the average guest on a game drive will soon lose his bearings, never realising that the vehicle is methodically quartering the terrain.
A dense road network, and therefore small blocks, obviously makes locating game easier. The new reserves inside the Kruger National Park are at a disadvantage in this respect, because SANParks has only allowed very limited road construction. Singita Lebombo seems to be the exception, but they have recently managed to upset SANParks. They applied for and received permission to construct another 24 kms of roads, and then built 32 kms, thinking that nobody would notice.
johan
Nov 6, 2004, 2:10 pm
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So far Bushman's Kloof and Tinley Manor in Sanbona seem to be the top choices.
The lodge itself is beautiful, set in extensive gardens on the banks of the Boontjies River. Four swimming pools (one heated), plus any number of natural pools (one with its own waterfall) a few minutes upstream or downstream. Mountain bikes are available, as are canoes on the main dam. Guests are free to walk and hike anywhere, anytime.
Hospitality was a close to perfect as is humanly possible. Consistently outstanding cuisine (three notches on the belt!) and my mom assures me the spa is fantastic. She should know, she spent every aftenoon there.
Gorgeous weather throughout.
I could go on, but would run out of superlatives. Suffice it to say that Bushmans Kloof is one of the few places that really is a good as it looks in the glossy brochures. One caveat : it is not a place to see big game, or even large numbers of general or plains game. What animals there are tend to be rather skittish, and keep game viewing vehicles at more than arm's length, so to speak.
johan
Jan 1, 2006, 8:18 pm
#10
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Originally Posted by chexfan
Does anyone have any experience or reccomendations of a Lodge w/ 2-3 day safaris in a 3 to 4 hours drive from Cape Town?
So far Bushman's Kloof and Tinley Manor in Sanbona seem to be the top choices.
I'd love to hear any other suggestions!
many thanks in advance
So far Bushman's Kloof and Tinley Manor in Sanbona seem to be the top choices.
I'd love to hear any other suggestions!
many thanks in advance
Feb 12, 2006, 10:08 pm
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Originally Posted by johan rebel
For various reasons (which I'd be happy to post on request) I would not recommend all of these lodges, but some are outstanding.