Ideas for ~3 weeks in Iran & The Caucasus
Jan 29, 2016, 7:26 pm
#16
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: LAX
Programs: AA PLT / 2MM
Posts: 2,113
Thanks for the great replies, all.
I have a separate question about Iran guides: I prefer to work directly with a guide and make sure we're compatible, rather than have a tour company assign me a random guide who I don't know if we'd get along with. Is it possible to work directly with your guide as an American, rather than hope your tour company assigns you a great one? It's a lot to spend 2 weeks with a mediocre guide you can't get rid of.
[QUOTE=Alt;26100664]Thanks for that; I'm also pedantic so I appreciate it.
I have a separate question about Iran guides: I prefer to work directly with a guide and make sure we're compatible, rather than have a tour company assign me a random guide who I don't know if we'd get along with. Is it possible to work directly with your guide as an American, rather than hope your tour company assigns you a great one? It's a lot to spend 2 weeks with a mediocre guide you can't get rid of.
[QUOTE=Alt;26100664]Thanks for that; I'm also pedantic so I appreciate it.
Jan 29, 2016, 11:20 pm
#17
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Northern Nevada
Programs: DL,EK
Posts: 1,652
I don't think you are spending enough time in Iran. I have been twice... the first time for a month in 1998 and the second time for 16 days in 2011. Both times I had great guides. I am not sure how you would really get to know the guide before arriving. I can recommend Araz travel and our guide Majid.
Jan 30, 2016, 7:30 pm
#18
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Programs: AA PLT / 2MM
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So, I've decided we don't want to spend 3 weeks in Iran and want to try to a little bit of the Caucasus too. Non-stop flights are easy/cheap from GYD to Iran, so I have us finishing in Baku just for a day. But I figure we'll save the rest of Azerbaijan for some other time.
My big question, now, is whether to spend the entire time in Georgia, or try to do Armenia too. I need to decide now whether to fly into TBS or EVN. I can worry about the exact details later. Georgia interests me most, but my gut tells me to try to work in a little bit of Armenia if I can and it's not making the entire trip just moving from A to B to C to D.
I sketched out the itinerary below, and would be happy to get your big-picture thoughts. Having taken acloser look at the itineraries of JayhawkCO and rivlinm, and some tour company itineraries online, it seems doable. I don't know if it's a good idea, though.
My big question, now, is whether to spend the entire time in Georgia, or try to do Armenia too. I need to decide now whether to fly into TBS or EVN. I can worry about the exact details later. Georgia interests me most, but my gut tells me to try to work in a little bit of Armenia if I can and it's not making the entire trip just moving from A to B to C to D.
I sketched out the itinerary below, and would be happy to get your big-picture thoughts. Having taken acloser look at the itineraries of JayhawkCO and rivlinm, and some tour company itineraries online, it seems doable. I don't know if it's a good idea, though.
Code:
Day 0: Arrive into Yerevan Day 1: Yerevan Day 1 Day 2: Yerevan Day 2 Day 3: Yerevan to Tbilisi Day 4: Tbilisi Day 1 Day 5: Tbilisi Day 2 Day 6: Tbilisi Day 3 Day 7: Tbilisi to Kazbegi Day 8: Full day Kazbegi Day 9: Kazbegi to Tbilisi, overnight train to Baku (depart 5.30pm, arrive 8.30am) Day 10: Day in Baku (visit Qobustan?), Fly GYD-IKA 10:30PM-11:35PM
Jan 31, 2016, 8:19 am
#19
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Virginia City Highlands
Programs: Nothing anymore after 20 years
Posts: 6,907
My suggestion, if you are going to Azerbaijan, go there BEFORE Armenia. Reasons were given here before. If you decide to carry on, you should have a contingency plan if they won't let you in.
Also, I would suggest to skip one day in Tbilisi and go to Kakheti wine country/Signaghi instead. I do like my home city (I mean Tbilisi) but I'd rather not spend full three days there - every single time I arrive, my throat is in pain due to air pollution. Also while in Tbilisi half day should be spent for Mtskheta/Djvari.
Also, I would suggest to skip one day in Tbilisi and go to Kakheti wine country/Signaghi instead. I do like my home city (I mean Tbilisi) but I'd rather not spend full three days there - every single time I arrive, my throat is in pain due to air pollution. Also while in Tbilisi half day should be spent for Mtskheta/Djvari.
Jan 31, 2016, 12:26 pm
#20
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Programs: AA PLT / 2MM
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Also, I would suggest to skip one day in Tbilisi and go to Kakheti wine country/Signaghi instead. I do like my home city (I mean Tbilisi) but I'd rather not spend full three days there - every single time I arrive, my throat is in pain due to air pollution. Also while in Tbilisi half day should be spent for Mtskheta/Djvari.
I just had us being based there for that long. I figure one day in the city, and 2 days of day trips.Is that a good breakdown of time in Tbilisi vs. Kazbegi? Seems people sometimes do Kazbegi as a day trip, or an overnight trip. Don't know if 2 nights is too much and shortchanging Georgia. Also, would it make sense to do Kazbegi before Tbilisi, as in Yerevan directly to Kazbegi, and then back to Tbilisi?
Also don't know about the logistics of this -- both the day trips and, especially, getting between Tbilisi and Kazbegi. Definitely don't want to drive a rental car. Marshrutkas seem difficult if you're on a quick schedule because you can't stop and see things on the day. Day trips from the Envoy Hostel seem good, but it's unreliable since they're not operated every day. A private driver who speaks limited English (don't need a full guide) is an option, but it will add up in cost to do this every day.
Jan 31, 2016, 2:08 pm
#21
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 57
It is, however, true that you will run into great difficulties in Azerbaijan if there is any evidence - in your passport or otherwise - that you have been to Nagorno-Karabakh.
Jan 31, 2016, 2:21 pm
#22
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 57
I don't know how you plan to get from Yerevan to Tbilisi. I have done it several times by road (past Sevan Lake and via Ijevan and Sadakhlo border crossing) and found the scenery very pleasant. Some interesting monasteries to see on the way, as well.
Jan 31, 2016, 2:33 pm
#23
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Your itinerary looks good to me. I would definitely not miss Armenia. Take a day in Yerevan and use the second day to do a day-trip. There is lots to see within a couple of hours drive of the city
I don't know how you plan to get from Yerevan to Tbilisi. I have done it several times by road (past Sevan Lake and via Ijevan and Sadakhlo border crossing) and found the scenery very pleasant. Some interesting monasteries to see on the way, as well.
I don't know how you plan to get from Yerevan to Tbilisi. I have done it several times by road (past Sevan Lake and via Ijevan and Sadakhlo border crossing) and found the scenery very pleasant. Some interesting monasteries to see on the way, as well.
Not sure how to get from Yerevan to Tbilisi. Envoy Hostel seems to do this (w/ stops), but only once a week, so that probably won't work. I'd like to see things on the way, so that probably means a private driver, right? What sort of cost would we be looking at?
Jan 31, 2016, 2:58 pm
#24
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 57
Don't know what a private driver costs these days. Don't imagine it is very much if you avoid the big hotels' limo services. If you speak Russian you can probably just ask around with the taxi drivers. Or maybe someone at your hotel has a brother or cousin with a car....
The thing to keep in mind is, most drivers will not take you across the border. Way too much hassle. They'll take you to the border crossing. You walk across the border at Sadakhlo into Georgia and then you have to find a ride to Tbilisi from there. I imagine that can be pre-arranged as well, but - as someone else has already said - be prepared for the unexpected in that region.
The thing to keep in mind is, most drivers will not take you across the border. Way too much hassle. They'll take you to the border crossing. You walk across the border at Sadakhlo into Georgia and then you have to find a ride to Tbilisi from there. I imagine that can be pre-arranged as well, but - as someone else has already said - be prepared for the unexpected in that region.
Feb 1, 2016, 12:11 am
#25
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Aurora, CO
Programs: Statusless and proud
Posts: 7,582
Of course, I don't actually mean 3 days in the city when I say 3 days in Tbilisi. I just had us being based there for that long. I figure one day in the city, and 2 days of day trips.
Is that a good breakdown of time in Tbilisi vs. Kazbegi? Seems people sometimes do Kazbegi as a day trip, or an overnight trip. Don't know if 2 nights is too much and shortchanging Georgia. Also, would it make sense to do Kazbegi before Tbilisi, as in Yerevan directly to Kazbegi, and then back to Tbilisi?
Also don't know about the logistics of this -- both the day trips and, especially, getting between Tbilisi and Kazbegi. Definitely don't want to drive a rental car. Marshrutkas seem difficult if you're on a quick schedule because you can't stop and see things on the day. Day trips from the Envoy Hostel seem good, but it's unreliable since they're not operated every day. A private driver who speaks limited English (don't need a full guide) is an option, but it will add up in cost to do this every day.
I just had us being based there for that long. I figure one day in the city, and 2 days of day trips.Is that a good breakdown of time in Tbilisi vs. Kazbegi? Seems people sometimes do Kazbegi as a day trip, or an overnight trip. Don't know if 2 nights is too much and shortchanging Georgia. Also, would it make sense to do Kazbegi before Tbilisi, as in Yerevan directly to Kazbegi, and then back to Tbilisi?
Also don't know about the logistics of this -- both the day trips and, especially, getting between Tbilisi and Kazbegi. Definitely don't want to drive a rental car. Marshrutkas seem difficult if you're on a quick schedule because you can't stop and see things on the day. Day trips from the Envoy Hostel seem good, but it's unreliable since they're not operated every day. A private driver who speaks limited English (don't need a full guide) is an option, but it will add up in cost to do this every day.
If you don't mind a homestay, you can PM me for where I stayed there. Georgi, the owner, was also our tour guide to Juta and took my wife and me to Tbilisi for free because he was headed there anyway. On the way up, the marshrutka stopped at the two main places that you would stop anyway: the nice lakeside church whose name escapes me at the moment and an awesome overlook with a somewhat underwhelming Russian monument. Here's some pics:
Lakeside Church
Overlook
Gergeti Church In Kazbegi (from my room with Mt. Kazbeg in the background)
My Wife and I Near Juta
Chris
Last edited by JayhawkCO; Feb 1, 2016 at 12:23 am
Feb 1, 2016, 2:13 am
#26
Original Poster
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: LAX
Programs: AA PLT / 2MM
Posts: 2,113
JayhawkCO, thanks for the great info. What exactly did you do in Juta for the day? We do enjoy hiking. And, what time of year did you go? I wonder if it will be as pretty in May, with the snow on the mountains!
Feb 1, 2016, 10:37 am
#27
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Virginia City Highlands
Programs: Nothing anymore after 20 years
Posts: 6,907
Is that a good breakdown of time in Tbilisi vs. Kazbegi? Seems people sometimes do Kazbegi as a day trip, or an overnight trip. Don't know if 2 nights is too much and shortchanging Georgia. Also, would it make sense to do Kazbegi before Tbilisi, as in Yerevan directly to Kazbegi, and then back to Tbilisi?
Also don't know about the logistics of this -- both the day trips and, especially, getting between Tbilisi and Kazbegi. Definitely don't want to drive a rental car. Marshrutkas seem difficult if you're on a quick schedule because you can't stop and see things on the day. Day trips from the Envoy Hostel seem good, but it's unreliable since they're not operated every day. A private driver who speaks limited English (don't need a full guide) is an option, but it will add up in cost to do this every day.
Also don't know about the logistics of this -- both the day trips and, especially, getting between Tbilisi and Kazbegi. Definitely don't want to drive a rental car. Marshrutkas seem difficult if you're on a quick schedule because you can't stop and see things on the day. Day trips from the Envoy Hostel seem good, but it's unreliable since they're not operated every day. A private driver who speaks limited English (don't need a full guide) is an option, but it will add up in cost to do this every day.
I would put Stepantsminda/Gergeti trip as the last after seen Tbilisi. If you end up to be quite tired up after hike up and down you might run out of steam to do other activities next days.
My good friend does weekly and on-demand tours from Tbilisi to Stepantsminda and other regions. Has his own car and speaks fluently. If you are interested, send me your contact info and I will pass it to him.
Feb 1, 2016, 8:50 pm
#28
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Aurora, CO
Programs: Statusless and proud
Posts: 7,582
Chris
Feb 3, 2016, 3:16 am
#29
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Programs: AA PLT / 2MM
Posts: 2,113
Thanks to all the helpful posters so far. I'm really wanting to go to Svaneti, and I've made out the itinerary for the Caucasus below, and would be happy to get anyone's thoughts:
Code:
Day 0: Arrive into Yerevan. Stay in Yerevan. Day 1: Yerevan. Day trip to Khor Virap, Noravank, Tatev. Stay in Yerevan. Day 2: Yerevan to Tbilisi. See Garni, Geghard, Lake Sevan, Dilijan, Debed Canyon on the way. Stay in Tbilisi. Day 3: Tbilisi - See sites in city. Stay in Tbilisi. Day 4: Tbilisi to Mestia. See sites along the way. Stay in Mestia. Day 5: See Mestia/Ushguli . Stay in Mestia. Day 6: Mestia to Tbilisi. Stay in Tbilisi Day 7: Tbilisi - Day trip to Kazbegi (see Gergeti Sameba, other sites). Stay in Tbilisi. Day 8: Tbilisi - Day trip to Davit Gareja, Sighnaghi, & wine country. Stay in Tbilisi. Day 9: Tbilisi - trip to Mtskheta / Jvari, overnight train to Baku (depart 5.30pm, arrive 8.30am) Day 10: Day in Baku. Visit Qobustan & Old City, Fly GYD-IKA 10:30PM-11:35PM
Feb 13, 2016, 12:01 am
#30
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Aurora, CO
Programs: Statusless and proud
Posts: 7,582
Thanks to all the helpful posters so far. I'm really wanting to go to Svaneti, and I've made out the itinerary for the Caucasus below, and would be happy to get anyone's thoughts:
Code:
Day 0: Arrive into Yerevan. Stay in Yerevan. Day 1: Yerevan. Day trip to Khor Virap, Noravank, Tatev. Stay in Yerevan. Day 2: Yerevan to Tbilisi. See Garni, Geghard, Lake Sevan, Dilijan, Debed Canyon on the way. Stay in Tbilisi. Day 3: Tbilisi - See sites in city. Stay in Tbilisi. Day 4: Tbilisi to Mestia. See sites along the way. Stay in Mestia. Day 5: See Mestia/Ushguli . Stay in Mestia. Day 6: Mestia to Tbilisi. Stay in Tbilisi Day 7: Tbilisi - Day trip to Kazbegi (see Gergeti Sameba, other sites). Stay in Tbilisi. Day 8: Tbilisi - Day trip to Davit Gareja, Sighnaghi, & wine country. Stay in Tbilisi. Day 9: Tbilisi - trip to Mtskheta / Jvari, overnight train to Baku (depart 5.30pm, arrive 8.30am) Day 10: Day in Baku. Visit Qobustan & Old City, Fly GYD-IKA 10:30PM-11:35PM
Chris