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Ideas for ~3 weeks in Iran & The Caucasus

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Old Jan 27, 2016, 6:44 pm
  #1  
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Ideas for ~3 weeks in Iran & The Caucasus

We have about 3 weeks total. Definitely want to do Iran. Of course, we need a private tour of Iran (US Citizens), but I'd rather not spend 3 full weeks in Iran given the costs of private tour. I was thinking of about 1.5 weeks in Iran, maybe 2 weeks, and also the Caucasus for the remainder of the time.

My question is whether this even makes sense. I feel like the Caucasus could be a separate trip of its own, but I'm wondering if I can do a nice trip in about a week (or slightly more). I'm used to traveling fast paced, but I don't want a whirlwind trip where we're spending most of the time getting between cities.

I'm not dead-set on seeing all 3 countries in the Caucasus. I'm most interested in Georgia; I've heard/read that Georgia is a better version of Armenia and that Baku is quite expensive. As far as Iran, a basic trip to the standard cities (Tehran, Ishfahan, Yazd, Shiraz) with maybe Mashad/Hamedan is what I'm thinking. Our basic interests are history, nature, religion, architecture, culture, food, and photography.

As far as logistics, I'd be flying one way into the Caucasus (AA award into GYD/EVN/TBS is all available) and ending the trip flying back home from Iran. In terms of getting between the Caucasus and Iran, it seems easy to fly from GYD-IKA (1 hour flight for $80). It also seems feasible to enter northwest Iran by land from Armenia.

Thank you for the guidance.
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Old Jan 27, 2016, 11:58 pm
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With OP's consent, let me move this to TravelBuzz where all aspects of the OP's planned trip can be discussed. Ocn Vw 1K, Senior Moderator.
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Old Jan 28, 2016, 12:03 am
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I loved Georgia. We started in Tbilisi, headed up to Kazbegi (where I proposed to my now wife), then hit up Davit Gareja and Signaghi on our way back to Tbilisi. Eventually we caught a marshrutka to Yerevan to fly home.

Georgian food is fantastic and cheap and pairs well with Georgian wine and cha-cha, the local moonshine. People everywhere were incredibly friendly, and considering I speak almost no Russian (and certainly no Georgian), it was an easy country to get around in. You can easily spend a week and a half in Georgia if your intention is to split the trip in two.

I, unfortunately, haven't made it to Iran yet but it's on my short list.

Chris
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Old Jan 28, 2016, 12:09 am
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Hey, I am Tbilisi native and can advice if you have specific questions.

One advice I should give in advance - be very flexible with schedule and do not plan anything which requires rushing or tight schedule. Unless you will have your own private car/transportation all the time you should expect that you might arrive at your destination 6h later or even on next day. This rule applies to the whole region, Iran included.
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Old Jan 28, 2016, 4:53 am
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I think you are shortchanging Iran with only 1.5 weeks. I traveled by bus there and did not have issues with delays. A bit dated but my Iran blog might give you some ideas: http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog/hhchua/2/tpod.html
I loved it and hope to go back soon. I traveled independently, but my parents used a private guide/driver for their trip.
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Old Jan 28, 2016, 5:14 am
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If you do decide to go to all three countries in Caucasus, be careful with the order. IIRC Azerbaijan will give you a hard time or even won't let you enter with Armenian stamps.
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Old Jan 28, 2016, 4:12 pm
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Originally Posted by JayhawkCO
I loved Georgia. We started in Tbilisi, headed up to Kazbegi (where I proposed to my now wife), then hit up Davit Gareja and Signaghi on our way back to Tbilisi. Eventually we caught a marshrutka to Yerevan to fly home.
Thanks for this. Would you mind posting a little more detail about your itinerary (days in each city, how you got from place to place)? Curious how the timing works out.

Originally Posted by jadecocoa
I think you are shortchanging Iran with only 1.5 weeks. I traveled by bus there and did not have issues with delays. A bit dated but my Iran blog might give you some ideas: http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog/hhchua/2/tpod.html
I loved it and hope to go back soon. I traveled independently, but my parents used a private guide/driver for their trip.
I certainly don't want to shortchange Iran. I was thinking about something like the itinerary below for 1.5 weeks in Iran. Mind having a look and telling me how you'd think I should beef things up if we spent more time in Iran:

Code:
Day 0: Evening arrival into Tehran IKA Airport

Day 1: Full Day in Tehran

Day 2: Tehran to Eshfahan (256miles), via Kashan

Day 3: Full day Eshfahan

Day 4: Full day Eshfahan

Day 5: Eshfahan to Yazd (195miles)

Day 6: Yazd full day

Day 7: Yazd to Shiraz (252 miles) via Pasargadae

Day 8: Persepolis day trip from Shiraz

Day 9: Shiraz full day

Day 10: Shiraz to Mashad (flight), Afternoon in Mashad

Day 11: Mashad full day

Day 12: Fly home from Mashad in morning
Originally Posted by Palal
If you do decide to go to all three countries in Caucasus, be careful with the order. IIRC Azerbaijan will give you a hard time or even won't let you enter with Armenian stamps.
I've read that you may get some extra questions if you've been to Armenia, but you'll get in as long as you don't have an N-K stamp. Does that sound right?

Last edited by LAX_Esq; Jan 29, 2016 at 3:51 am
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Old Jan 28, 2016, 9:07 pm
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All my travel in Iran has been solo, by bicycle, so my sense of time and place wouldn't be very comparable. Travels to Azerbaijan and Armenia were fine, but I enjoyed Georgia most. Batumi especially. It's smaller than Tbilisi, but the people are rabid fans of their city. I never had any down time. There was always someone tugging at my shirt sleeve, anxious to show me something. The downtown area was pretty torn up when I was there (streets, sub-street infrastructure - sewers, pipes...) but I'll bet it's nice now. Lots of good food, including along the waterfront. A bicycle-sharing program too.
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Old Jan 29, 2016, 5:12 am
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Code:
Day 0: Evening arrival into Tehran IKA Airport

Day 1: Full Day in Tehran

Day 2: Tehran to Eshfahan (256miles), via Kashan

Day 3: Full day Eshfahan

Day 4: Full day Eshfahan

Day 5: Eshfahan to Yazd (195miles)

Day 6: Yazd full day

Day 7: Yazd to Shiraz (252 miles) via Pasargadae

Day 8: Persepolis day trip from Shiraz

Day 9: Shiraz full day

Day 10: Shiraz to Mashad (flight), Afternoon in Mashad

Day 11: Mashad full day

Day 12: Fly home from Mashad in morning
Visit Qom on your way to Kashan from Tehran.

Add a night in Kashan - there's at least a day's worth of things to do. If you want to do side trips to Abyaneh and Maranjab (salt flats, caravanserai), add another day.

Otherwise your trip is fast but doable. Other options would be sidetrips to Tabriz from Tehran or Kerman from Yazd but both involve a lot of extra time on the road. Personally I would build in 1-2 days in case you hit the wall and just need some down time.
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Old Jan 29, 2016, 5:19 am
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Originally Posted by LAX_Esq
I've read that you may get some extra questions if you've been to Armenia, but you'll get in as long as you don't have an N-K stamp. Does that sound right?
That sounds right. However, you're looking at losing a few hours at the border if you have Armenian stamps.
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Old Jan 29, 2016, 5:30 am
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Originally Posted by jadecocoa
Visit Qom on your way to Kashan from Tehran.

Add a night in Kashan - there's at least a day's worth of things to do. If you want to do side trips to Abyaneh and Maranjab (salt flats, caravanserai), add another day.

Otherwise your trip is fast but doable. Other options would be sidetrips to Tabriz from Tehran or Kerman from Yazd but both involve a lot of extra time on the road. Personally I would build in 1-2 days in case you hit the wall and just need some down time.
Hmm, it looks like DanielW did both Abyaneh and Kashan on the way from Tehran to Eshfahan -- http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/trip-...trip-iran.html . Looks like he had much less time, though. I try to avoid 1-night hotel stints if I can (I find it an annoying hassle) so I'm a bit reluctant to do 1 night in Kashan. Is it feasible to see *all* of Abyaneh, Kashan and Qom on this ride between the cities? Never heard of those salt flats, but they look awesome; maybe 2 nights in Kashan?

Also, I'm seriously thinking of doing Persepolis on the way from Yazd to Shiraz, rather than as a separate day trip from Shiraz. Is that smart? In that case, do I still want two full days in Shiraz, or is one fine?

Originally Posted by Palal
That sounds right. However, you're looking at losing a few hours at the border if you have Armenian stamps.
If we take the train from Tbilisi to Baku, are my really looking at a long delay? I presume they can't hold up the train....
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Old Jan 29, 2016, 8:24 am
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Originally Posted by LAX_Esq
Thanks for this. Would you mind posting a little more detail about your itinerary (days in each city, how you got from place to place)? Curious how the timing works out.
Of course:

Arrived into TBS late from Istanbul (SAW)
Day 1: Tbilisi (just general wandering of the old town, parks, churches, etc.)
Day 2: Tbilisi (more of the same, and then caught a puppet show at a local theater that was amazing)
Day 3: Marshrutka to Kazbegi in the morning, hiked to the Gergeti Trinity Church (where I proposed)
Day 4: Day trip to Juta (gorgeous mountain valleys to hike in)
Day 5: Private car (free ride from the owner of our guest house) back to Tbilisi
Day 6: Full day tour going the back way through industrial wastelands to Davit Gareja, a few hours there touring the rock churches (bring good shoes) and then coming back to Tbilisi via Signaghi (Georgia's Napa).
Day 7: Marshrutka to Yerevan

Certainly not the most comprehensive vacation, but I was on a time crunch too. I would have liked to have included Batumi and maybe even Svaneti if we had time. Perhaps another trip.

Chris
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Old Jan 29, 2016, 8:34 am
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Maybe these trips will help. Both within the last year.

Iran, UAE, Oman - February 2015

Ukraine, Armenia, Georgia, Azerbaijan - November 2015

I found Iran deserves at least 10 days. I would have skipped Kashan/Qom to spend another day taking in the real day to day life of North Tehran.

Because of flight schedules I had to begin in Armenia and was a bit worried about entering Azerbaijan, but besides having to say I visited for tourism, it was no issue. (hardly a 15 second delay) I even 'smuggled' in Armenian wine and beer.

Happy reading.
Great and CHEAP destinations, but don't shortchange them.
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Old Jan 29, 2016, 8:54 am
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[QUOTE=LAX_Esq;26097367]

Code:
Day 0: Evening arrival into Tehran IKA Airport

Day 1: Full Day in Tehran

Day 2: Tehran to Eshfahan (256miles), via Kashan

Day 3: Full day Eshfahan

Day 4: Full day Eshfahan

Day 5: Eshfahan to Yazd (195miles)

Day 6: Yazd full day

Day 7: Yazd to Shiraz (252 miles) via Pasargadae

Day 8: Persepolis day trip from Shiraz

Day 9: Shiraz full day

Day 10: Shiraz to Mashad (flight), Afternoon in Mashad

Day 11: Mashad full day

Day 12: Fly home from Mashad in morning
QUOTE]

Sorry for being pedantic but

Esfahan not Eshfahan
Also
Pasargard ('gard' like guard)
Mashhad (as in you 'had' some potato 'mash'... Mashhad

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Old Jan 29, 2016, 11:50 am
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Originally Posted by LAX_Esq
Hmm, it looks like DanielW did both Abyaneh and Kashan on the way from Tehran to Eshfahan -- http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/trip-...trip-iran.html . Looks like he had much less time, though. I try to avoid 1-night hotel stints if I can (I find it an annoying hassle) so I'm a bit reluctant to do 1 night in Kashan. Is it feasible to see *all* of Abyaneh, Kashan and Qom on this ride between the cities? Never heard of those salt flats, but they look awesome; maybe 2 nights in Kashan?

Also, I'm seriously thinking of doing Persepolis on the way from Yazd to Shiraz, rather than as a separate day trip from Shiraz. Is that smart? In that case, do I still want two full days in Shiraz, or is one fine?
Think this is really YMMV. I don't travel as fast as some people, so tend to spend more time. I was also using buses except for the day trips. With private transport and a guide you can move faster.

Kashan was one of my favorite cities in Iran. I spent one day visiting the gardens, market and as many of the historic houses as I could; another day at Abyaneh and Maranjab. My parents visited the gardens and one house and were done. They were not fans of the salt flats and a bit annoyed at the long drive out.

Another option out of Shiraz (I didn't do this but wanted to) is to visit some nomad tribes.
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