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Old Dec 30, 2005, 2:09 pm
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Help, please - Ryokans for dummies

We will be travelling to Japan in February/March. We are thinking of using Ryokans as our primary accommodations - but we have some elementary questions that we hope more experiences fellow FTers can help us with. They are very basic - so apologies in advance.


* Are all Ryokans very small - i.e. about 10-15 rooms ? Are they normally family-run, or are there Ryokan chains as well ??

* Are they all in old, traditional buildings or are some of them in modern buildings ?

* Is it possible to find Ryokans with en suite WC's, as opposed to communal ones?

* Do most of them have "modern comforts", i.e. cable TV, mini-bar, telephone in the room, etc. ?

* Is there flexibility in the timing of when they change your rooms from night to day and day to night - or are you essentially prisoners of their schedule?

* Is it mandatory to have breakfast and dinner at the Ryokan? If there is flexibility, do you need to settle this at the time of making the reservations if you opt out??

* Are the meals always served in your room, or is there a communal dining area as well? Do you have any choice in what you're served? I understand wine is not included in the dinner price - is it acceptable to bring your own bottle of wine? Is there flexibility in the hours for breakfast and dinner?

* Are bathing hours fixed for each room - or is there some flexibility? Is it considered not polite to wear a bathing suit to the baths?

* Will I get by in English at most Ryokans or should I have my pages with english/Japanese phrases with me at all times?

* Shoe etiquette - I've read that there are several different types of slippers to be used - one for use between entrance and your room, one for use in the room, one for the WC, etc. Am I making this sound too complicated ?

* Would a Ryokan typically be able to organize tours for you in the area?

* I've seen some posts here noting you should only stay 1 night in a Ryokan as opposed to your whole stay? Is there any reason for that aside from the money issues?

Best
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Old Dec 30, 2005, 3:13 pm
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My girlfriend and I went to Japan this past summer and we decided to stay at a Ryokan for a traditional feel and because it was cheaper. We found our accomodation/rates at the Japanese National Tourist Organization at: http://www.jnto.go.jp/eng/PS/

We stayed at Ryokan Ohto in Kyoto which was about a 10-15min walk from the Kyoto JR station.

* Are all Ryokans very small - i.e. about 10-15 rooms ? Are they normally family-run, or are there Ryokan chains as well ??
From the information I gathered, Ryokans are family-run and about that number of rooms. Not sure if there are chains but as they are family run I wouldn't think there are many.

* Are they all in old, traditional buildings or are some of them in modern buildings ?
The one we stayed in was in a modern building. The entrance was in an alley but it wasn't an incredibly scary alley.

* Is it possible to find Ryokans with en suite WC's, as opposed to communal ones?
Yes, some Ryokans come with en suite WC's. They are usually more expensive than the rooms without.

* Do most of them have "modern comforts", i.e. cable TV, mini-bar, telephone in the room, etc. ?
The one we had contained a little table, cushions around the table, tv (not cable, just local) and a telephone which could make int'l calls but with a notice that you would be charged for int'l calls accordingly. No mini-bar.

* Is there flexibility in the timing of when they change your rooms from night to day and day to night - or are you essentially prisoners of their schedule?
Rooms were never changed during the night time when we were there, they were usually changed in the early afternoon. As there is a small number of rooms, it gets done quickly.

* Is it mandatory to have breakfast and dinner at the Ryokan? If there is flexibility, do you need to settle this at the time of making the reservations if you opt out??
Depends on the ryokan. The one we went to did not have breakfast provided so we bought several buns from the bakery the night before and ate them in the morning before we left at 6am. Some Ryokans include breakfast in their rates.

* Are the meals always served in your room, or is there a communal dining area as well? Do you have any choice in what you're served? I understand wine is not included in the dinner price - is it acceptable to bring your own bottle of wine? Is there flexibility in the hours for breakfast and dinner?
Depending on the Ryokan they may serve in your room and some offer the breakfast in a communal dining area. We opted for no breakfast as we were leaving at extraordinary hours in the morning.

* Are bathing hours fixed for each room - or is there some flexibility? Is it considered not polite to wear a bathing suit to the baths?
No idea.

* Will I get by in English at most Ryokans or should I have my pages with english/Japanese phrases with me at all times?
Most Ryokans will speak limited English. The Ryokans on the JNTO site should have someone that speaks English but that is not guaranteed. Practice some phrases like Thanks, etc. but everything should be fine. There should be other guests at the Ryokan who should be nice enough to help you out to get something should you need it.

* Shoe etiquette - I've read that there are several different types of slippers to be used - one for use between entrance and your room, one for use in the room, one for the WC, etc. Am I making this sound too complicated ?
We only have 1 pair of slippers at the Ryokan I stayed at. You take off your outside shoes, put on the slippers and walk everywhere with them. This is with the exception of the tatami mats which encompasses most of the rooms. We had a little hallway where we put the slippers down.

* Would a Ryokan typically be able to organize tours for you in the area?
Not sure but they definitely have a lot of brochures which should tell you about guided tours in the area.

* I've seen some posts here noting you should only stay 1 night in a Ryokan as opposed to your whole stay? Is there any reason for that aside from the money issues?
We stayed at a Ryokan for 3 nights. 2 nights was almost equivalent to the price of 1 night at a Japanese business hotel which we booked on arrival in Osaka as our accomodations at a friend's place fell through. The business hotel rate was still a discounted rate that the JNTO site provided.

I liked the Ryokan, very quaint, friendly service by the limited-speaking Japanese family which owned it and it had a computer set-up for internet (thank goodness!). It's also a good opportunity to meet some other travellers a French guy was trying to transfer his pictures off a memory card on to a CD and a British Chinese guy was using the computer as I went in and out to get plum wine/instant noodles from the convenience store. I thought it was quaint and the room was bigger than our Japanese business hotel room <giggle>. though the washroom was a little smaller. We're short Asian girls so it was an okay size, I don't know if my 6' tall European friend would enjoy such a cramped washroom though....
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Old Dec 30, 2005, 7:10 pm
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I think most ryokan, like most hotels these days, have en-suite toilet facilities. Bunches, even if they are totally Japanese everywhere else, have western toilet facilities which I bet even most Japanese prefer to the Japanese style!

And yes, there are ryokan where the rooms have TVs, internet access, etc. Can't always shut out the modern world!
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Old Dec 31, 2005, 8:14 am
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For Ryokan options:

http://www.japaneseguesthouses.com

or B&B type options:

http://www.minshuku.co.jp/english/e-index.html
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Old Jan 2, 2006, 1:49 am
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Answering the unanswered questions:

* Not all ryokan are family-run and there are a couple of monsters with several hundred rooms out there. Then again, it's debatable whether such a thing is a ryokan anymore, or just a hotel in disguise... not everything calling itself a ryokan is one.

* Having dinner and breakfast at the ryokan is a big part of the experience. At dinner, in particular, they pull out all the stops to serve incredible feasts. At most, but not all, ryokan you can opt out if you wish though.

* Bringing your own wine would be a little odd, as the food will obviously be Japanese and thus better suited to sake and beer.

* In a proper onsen ryokan there are no bathing times as such, the baths are open 24 hours or close to it. At a hot spring it's traditional to maximize your soaking and bathe no less than three times a day (once before dinner, once before you go to bed and once before breakfast), but this is up to you.

* Bathing facilities are segregated by sex, and yes, it would be somewhat rude to wear a bathing suit. Some higher-end ryokan can, however, arrange a private reserved bath for you and yours alone.
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Old Jan 2, 2006, 3:29 am
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There is an excellent, little, illustrated beginners' guide to staying at Japanese traditional inns, which is published by JTB:

Japanese Inn & Travel: Illustrated (Illustrated Japan in Your Pocket Series, No 14) by Japan Travel Bureau

This book neatly illustrates what you can expect at various types of hotel (onsen hotels / old fashioned ryokan / business hotels etc.). There are some things that just take some getting used to... It's good to understand things in "theory" by reading a guide book in advance - but some things just have to be experienced before you can "internalize" them:

Unfortunately, amazon.com wants to charge $25 for this little book - which is ridiculous. (Retail price in Japan is 540yen - so the proper price should be something like $5)

The ISBN code is 4533016006

It's definitely not worth $25, but perhaps you can find it at your library. (Or buy it when you reach Narita airport).


And here are a few things that came to mind as I was reading the above:

- The slipper thing
There are only really four states of footwear that you need to know about, so it's not rocket science - (No slippers (i.e. socks only) / Indoor Slippers / Toilet Slippers / Outdoor footwear). However, until you get used to it, you may make a wrong move at some point. I recall the time that I came out of the bathroom at a friend's house and forgot to remove the toilet slippers. I was walking around the kitchen and living room for some time before I picked up that something was wrong. She had been too embarrassed to stop me... most people won't be so shy to shout if you try to enter their house with outdoor shoes on.

- Trunks in the bath? No
Swimming costumes are definitely a "no" in a public bath. Your neighbour in the bath is naked and so must you be. (Some public baths actually have signs up to say this - most do not bother, because this is just the cultural norm. in Japan).

- BYOB
Well yes.... you can bring your own booze into the ryokan. I've never had a problem with that. I have been known to buy some drinks and snacks at a nearby convenience store to enjoy as an aperitif, but order my beers from the ryokan during the meal. Sometimes I feel a little cheap, but I just have a problem with mini-bar prices ...

- Spending a whole week in a Ryokan?

I am happy spending a couple of nights at a Ryokan. But there are two reasons that I would not plan on staying only at traditional inns for an entire week of tourism in Japan:

(1) Staying at a Ryokan is not as flexible as being at a Western-style hotel.

I love the feeling of being pampered to bits at a high-end ryokan, but the experience becomes "too much" after a couple of nights. Sometimes I need the freedom and "low attention" of a Western-style hotel - which allows me to decide on a whim whether I am eating in or out and doesn't tire me out with the polite greetings from the staff at frequent intervals throughout the evening.

For example, if I am travelling around a region and I don't know what time I want to arrive at my hotel, it's a lot of hassle to deal with a traditional inn. I don't always know what time I will be checking in. The traditional inn will prefer me to arrive before the meal time "window" (Many places will say, for example, that you can start dinner any time between 6pm and 8pm). I'd rather have the choice just to check-in at any time of the evening and make my choice about where to dine on the spur of the moment.

Of course, I could make a reservation for a ryokan without a meal - but I would consider that to be missing a great part of the ryokan experience. I've done it before and it just feels like something is "missing."

(2) Price. Ryokans charge per person (not per room). I like the really high-end ryokan experience. It's expensive.

Last edited by jib71; Jan 2, 2006 at 3:45 am
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Old Jan 2, 2006, 12:17 pm
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There are two types of ryokans: budget and luxury. The budget ones will be relatively inexpensive and usually come without meals. I don't think they require to take meals, but have never stayed in any of these.

Luxury ones usually require you to take meals (although I have stayed in one that didn't). They are fantastic experiences with a private server/maid. You get in, have tea in the room, take a bath (either in your private one or sometimes, if they have it, in the communal), get into a light bathrobe (called a yukata), have a multi course dinner in the room, and then they make the beds when you are ready.

I've stayed in several of them, and they all are amazingly different. It is really fun to stay for a while as you really start getting into the experience.

As for bathrooms, most (especially luxury ones) will have en-room bathrooms.

I highly recommend Tawaraya and Hiiragiya, two of the most expensive in Kyoto and even Japan. Also, for a cheaper one, the Seikoro is wonderful, and they don't require you to take meals there (although they are worth every penny).

BTW, has anybody stayed at Kinmata? I have heard good things about their food.
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Old Jan 2, 2006, 12:29 pm
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We have stayed at Tawaraya also and it is a astonishing experience. Private bath and the tub is also private for each room there. Do some searches on Tawaraya there have been several threads where it has been discussed. It has been in the same family for 300 years. The food is served in the room, while you sit in your robe on the floor with the low table in front of you. It is a traditional kaiseki cuisine which is hard to get if you dont stay at one of the ryokans. Friends and stayed at cheaper ones in Kyoto and been very pleased also. There is one in the Gion area the name of which escapes me but friends have really liked. There is another in Tokyo with free internet that a friend always stays at and like a lot. Again, afraid I forget the name. The web sites listed above should be a great help.

Tawaraya arranged a great tour for us of Kyoto with an English speaking driver in a nice car. The amount of people speaking English isnt a like at a large luxury hotel like a Hyatt or Seiyo Ginza but enough to get by without knowing Japanese.

Last edited by GadgetFreak; Jan 2, 2006 at 12:35 pm
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Old Jan 3, 2006, 7:28 am
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Originally Posted by aa4ever
There are two types of ryokans: budget and luxury. The budget ones will be relatively inexpensive and usually come without meals. I don't think they require to take meals, but have never stayed in any of these.

Luxury ones usually require you to take meals (although I have stayed in one that didn't). They are fantastic experiences with a private server/maid. You get in, have tea in the room, take a bath (either in your private one or sometimes, if they have it, in the communal), get into a light bathrobe (called a yukata), have a multi course dinner in the room, and then they make the beds when you are ready.
I'm afraid this is over simplistic and not quite true.
You will certainly find establishments in cities such as Tokyo classifying themselves as budget ryokans where meals are not included in the price. Some of these are little more than hostel accommodation but with futons. Then there is the blurred border between minshuku and ryokan. There are also Kokkumin Shukusha (peoples lodges), and a few other kinds that cant be easily categorised. And of course there are the luxury ryokans at the top end of the scale.

Ive never stayed in what I would call a luxury ryokan, I cant afford to. But I have stayed at a few ranging from 8,000yen per head per night to 14,000yen, and none of these would I term budget Ryokans either. They were all moderate establishments frequented mainly by the Japanese.

One of these was in Tsumago, and this was not a luxury ryokan. The Matsushiroya instead aims to provide an authentic experience to mainly Japanese guests of what it was like to stay in a pilgrims inn on a major highway in a building that has served this purpose for over 200 years. Not a budget choice, certainly not luxurious, but a wonderful experience nonetheless breakfast and meal included .

Ive also stayed at a union rest home and enjoyed one of the very best meals of my life. Four of us were served privately in a well heated banqueting hall. The building was from the 70s and had its own charms.

The flipside to this was an inn in Hakone which was a gorgeous traditional building, as beautiful as any ryokan could be, but without the level of attentive personal service or high standard of catering you would find in a luxury ryokan. The meals, although basic, were perfectly adequate however, and served in a communal dining room.

All of these places had their own charms, each being very different from the other. Conventional hotel rooms at this price level rarely offer such diversity.
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Old Jan 3, 2006, 2:41 pm
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Originally Posted by LapLap
Ive never stayed in what I would call a luxury ryokan, I cant afford to. But I have stayed at a few ranging from 8,000yen per head per night to 14,000yen, and none of these would I term budget Ryokans either. They were all moderate establishments frequented mainly by the Japanese.
I agree with you; I was oversimplifying for the purpose of the explanation. This is what I was defining as heiring toward luxury. I was trying more to explain the experience, not the pricing. These are definately not budget ryokan.

For budget, think Ryokan Shigetsu (where I almost stayed in Tokyo). I found this in the Frommers, but later found it was considered budget (even though it would have cost us about 450USD for our family).
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Old Jan 3, 2006, 2:54 pm
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Thank you

Thank you for all your assistance. It's been invaluable.

We're now planning a 10 day stay in Japan are doing 4 nights in Tokyo in a Western Hotel (most likely the Park Hyatt based on everything, but we're also seriously considering the refurbished Imperial) and then 5 nights in a Ryokan in Kyoto...
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Old Jan 3, 2006, 5:14 pm
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Originally Posted by Braniff
Thank you for all your assistance. It's been invaluable.

We're now planning a 10 day stay in Japan are doing 4 nights in Tokyo in a Western Hotel (most likely the Park Hyatt based on everything, but we're also seriously considering the refurbished Imperial) and then 5 nights in a Ryokan in Kyoto...
I stayed out of this because I tend to lean more toward budget accommodations, but have one comment. You may find that you are just as happy with the "ryokan experience" by staying a night or two and then finishing up at a hotel. I find that ryokans, while certainly luxurious and wonderfully relaxing, can be a bit stifling after a day or two. While some have quite varied menus, many will vary the meals only slightly from day to day. Likewise, the need to vacate the establishment for several hours during the day can cut into my nap possibilites. If you are ok with staying away between 10.00 am and 4:00 pm or so, then it might not bother you.

For me, a night or two in a ryokan is wonderfully relaxing and a highly rewarding cultural experience. Much longer would wear a little thin.

JMHO. YMMV.

JR
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Old Jan 4, 2006, 3:16 am
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Originally Posted by abmj-jr
Likewise, the need to vacate the establishment for several hours during the day can cut into my nap possibilites. .... For me, a night or two in a ryokan is wonderfully relaxing and a highly rewarding cultural experience. Much longer would wear a little thin.
Not all ryokan will kick you out during the day; there was no such suggestion or restriction at Hiiragiya in Kyoto. However, naps are an essential part of my life on the road, and the Hiiragiya staff were a bit dumbfounded (but ultimately helpful) in doing up the futon at 3pm.

All that said, I think 2 nights at a nice ryokan is an ideal length of time to relax, chill out, and be mothered unmercifully (including being stuffed like a goose). Besides, once a Westerner has mastered the Ritual of the Footwear, few challenges remain.
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Old Jan 4, 2006, 7:35 am
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Nor did Tawaraya although we were touring so maybe that was why we didnt notice. In addition to the footwear to master there is also the tying of the belt on the yukata, which I unfortunately did not do correctly much to the combined amusement and horror of the person caring for us and our room at Tawaraya.

By the way, at Tawaraya we arrived at the entrance, our bags and shoes were whisked away and we were given slippers and taken to our room and shown around. A hot bath was already drawn in the cedar tub in the room. The private tub room was in also part of a shower so you could take a more Western shower before your bath as well as get a rinse after. I would really encourage a stay at a ryokan although like others here I wonder if a few days at a ryokan in Kyoto and a few days at someplace like the Westin Miyako might be better than spending the whole time at a ryokan.

Last edited by GadgetFreak; Jan 4, 2006 at 9:03 am Reason: Because I am an idiot and was thinking of poor Mr. Miyagi instead of the name of the hotel. And thanks Jib71 for not pointing it out and making me feel even dumber ;)
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Old Jan 4, 2006, 7:55 am
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Originally Posted by GadgetFreak
I wonder if a few days at a ryokan in Kyoto and a few days at someplace like the Westin
A very good suggestion.

If you want the Japanese style room - but with a more "hands off" level of service, then you can get a very nice Japanese-style room at the Westin Miyako in Kyoto. The hotel has a separate section with a Japanese garden and several Japanese rooms around it. That section of the hotel is called the "Kasuien"

IIRC, Pickles has previously recommended the "Kasuien" as a comfortable compromise which provides Japanese style but without the excessive pampering of a Ryokan.
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