Serendipity Again: To CPH and Beyond
Jun 5, 2008 | 3:11 pm
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2008
Programs: US Dividend Miles
Posts: 333
Serendipity Again: To CPH and Beyond
Background: I had a conference in CPH this year. My employer allows some flexibility with travel, restrictive in some regards (flights are coach-only) but very permissive in others (last year's rented Mercedes got a thumbs-up). With this in mind, I decided I didn't want a straight PIT-CPH-PIT routing. Having been good friends with a true rail fan in college, I decided to sample some high-end European rail products, with the final routing as follows:
Part 1:
PIT-JFK on Delta
JFK-KEF-LHR on Icelandair
To follow:
London to Brussels Midi on Eurostar
Brussels Midi to Kln HBf on Thalys
Kln HBf to Copenhagen on DB CityNightLine
CPH-KEF on Icelandair
KEF-BOS on Icelandair
BOS-PIT on US Airways
Phew! This is going to be a long ride, so we'd best get started.
PIT-JFK was a typical Northeastern regional jet ride, save for the friendly companionship of the cute girl Delta had given the seat next to me, and for a terrific view of the Statue of Liberty from my right-sided seat as we approached JFK. I couldn't help but think of my ancestors disembarking from some creaky old ship at the end of a long ride from Europe...
The original plan was to redeem one of my USAirways Lounge vouchers at JFK, but this plan was hampered somewhat by USAirways not having a lounge at JFK. Oops. I had a paper ticket, and Icelandair didn't open their ticket counter until a few hours before the flight, so I couldn't even pass security. Fortunately, wandering around the periphery of the lobby showed a large side room used for ticket sales; an empty Cathay Pacific ticket counter provided a nice place for me to spread out with a book. Eventually it was time, and with a boarding pass stapled to my paper ticket, I headed through security.
In the words of an old video game, "Now the adventure begins!"
I'd so far been across the Atlantic on Delta, US Airways, United, and Finnair -- always coach. The first three seemed like a longer-distance version of their domestic product. Finnair was pretty unique, with strange food and endless free alcohol. This time, Icelandair...
Boarding the airplane, I found to my surprise that Icelandair had already fitted the entire coach section with AVOD -- nice! Headphones were minimal, but the jack was a typical 3.5mm unit compatible with most sets on the market. Movie selection featured 13 different flicks, and music could be selected either by "station" or by album, with individual tracks that could be assembled into a playlist. Options included Dire Straits, Beatles, U2, Madonna, Johnny Cash, LeAnn Rimes, and a bunch of lesser lights. Bjrk, interestingly, was not present -- perhaps she was asking too much for the rights? There was also a selection of TV shows; I remember the Simpsons, Malcolm in the Middle, and one episode of the British "Top Gear."
Two quibbles: first, the AVOD was unreliable. My screen, and those around me, failed repeatedly and had to be reset by the flight attendants. Games were listed as a menu option, but nobody had a controller, and exiting the game screen without a controller was very difficult -- more resetting. To their credit the FAs didn't seem to mind. Also, Icelandair is the first airline I've had request money for charity as we flew. With earthquake victims in China and people starving in Burma, I could understand -- but the charity was actually meant to buy plane tickets for sick kids in Iceland. Um, guys, you're an airline... just give them some unsold tickets, eh?
Arrived in Iceland without a hitch; I had to go through Icelandic passport control and go through security, even though I had just arrived on Icelandair and was about to leave the same way. No biggie, although it did beg the question of whether someone who'd ordinarily need a visa to visit Iceland would also need a visa for the Icelandair plane change in KEF. Sent a postcard, sat down to charge the laptop, and read...
Soon enough, KEF-LHR boarded. Breakfast was pretty respectable for coach class on a short international flight, with scrambled eggs and ham. Considering that I hadn't even assumed there would be food, this was quite a pleasant surprise! The KEF-LHR plane was outfitted with the same AVOD as the JFK-KEF plane although the earphones were now the two-prong variety and much more comfortable. FAs collected the customary Icelandair offering from the passengers as we steamed into London Heathrow. I grabbed my bags, rode the Heathrow Connect to Paddington and connected to Kings Cross, dropped my stuff off at the Jesmond Dene Hotel... time to see how much London I can see in 21 hours!
Part 1:
PIT-JFK on Delta
JFK-KEF-LHR on Icelandair
To follow:
London to Brussels Midi on Eurostar
Brussels Midi to Kln HBf on Thalys
Kln HBf to Copenhagen on DB CityNightLine
CPH-KEF on Icelandair
KEF-BOS on Icelandair
BOS-PIT on US Airways
Phew! This is going to be a long ride, so we'd best get started.
PIT-JFK was a typical Northeastern regional jet ride, save for the friendly companionship of the cute girl Delta had given the seat next to me, and for a terrific view of the Statue of Liberty from my right-sided seat as we approached JFK. I couldn't help but think of my ancestors disembarking from some creaky old ship at the end of a long ride from Europe...
The original plan was to redeem one of my USAirways Lounge vouchers at JFK, but this plan was hampered somewhat by USAirways not having a lounge at JFK. Oops. I had a paper ticket, and Icelandair didn't open their ticket counter until a few hours before the flight, so I couldn't even pass security. Fortunately, wandering around the periphery of the lobby showed a large side room used for ticket sales; an empty Cathay Pacific ticket counter provided a nice place for me to spread out with a book. Eventually it was time, and with a boarding pass stapled to my paper ticket, I headed through security.
In the words of an old video game, "Now the adventure begins!"
I'd so far been across the Atlantic on Delta, US Airways, United, and Finnair -- always coach. The first three seemed like a longer-distance version of their domestic product. Finnair was pretty unique, with strange food and endless free alcohol. This time, Icelandair...
Boarding the airplane, I found to my surprise that Icelandair had already fitted the entire coach section with AVOD -- nice! Headphones were minimal, but the jack was a typical 3.5mm unit compatible with most sets on the market. Movie selection featured 13 different flicks, and music could be selected either by "station" or by album, with individual tracks that could be assembled into a playlist. Options included Dire Straits, Beatles, U2, Madonna, Johnny Cash, LeAnn Rimes, and a bunch of lesser lights. Bjrk, interestingly, was not present -- perhaps she was asking too much for the rights? There was also a selection of TV shows; I remember the Simpsons, Malcolm in the Middle, and one episode of the British "Top Gear."
Two quibbles: first, the AVOD was unreliable. My screen, and those around me, failed repeatedly and had to be reset by the flight attendants. Games were listed as a menu option, but nobody had a controller, and exiting the game screen without a controller was very difficult -- more resetting. To their credit the FAs didn't seem to mind. Also, Icelandair is the first airline I've had request money for charity as we flew. With earthquake victims in China and people starving in Burma, I could understand -- but the charity was actually meant to buy plane tickets for sick kids in Iceland. Um, guys, you're an airline... just give them some unsold tickets, eh?
Arrived in Iceland without a hitch; I had to go through Icelandic passport control and go through security, even though I had just arrived on Icelandair and was about to leave the same way. No biggie, although it did beg the question of whether someone who'd ordinarily need a visa to visit Iceland would also need a visa for the Icelandair plane change in KEF. Sent a postcard, sat down to charge the laptop, and read...
Soon enough, KEF-LHR boarded. Breakfast was pretty respectable for coach class on a short international flight, with scrambled eggs and ham. Considering that I hadn't even assumed there would be food, this was quite a pleasant surprise! The KEF-LHR plane was outfitted with the same AVOD as the JFK-KEF plane although the earphones were now the two-prong variety and much more comfortable. FAs collected the customary Icelandair offering from the passengers as we steamed into London Heathrow. I grabbed my bags, rode the Heathrow Connect to Paddington and connected to Kings Cross, dropped my stuff off at the Jesmond Dene Hotel... time to see how much London I can see in 21 hours!
Jun 5, 2008 | 4:45 pm
#3
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Portland, OR
Programs: Delta Gold 1 MM
Posts: 2,711
I think I can answer why you went thru passport control
In researching a soon to occur trip to Poland, I found a website that stated that Poland and Iceland are now part of the Schengen group, thus this was your first point of entry into Europe and therefore pass control. This is just like what happens when one connects in Amsterdam to points East.
Good report and looking forward to the rest. Too bad that you did not book an Iceland stopover since Iceland is really an interesting place.
Also NW solicits contributions via onboard announcements for "Air Cares" as similar program.
Good report and looking forward to the rest. Too bad that you did not book an Iceland stopover since Iceland is really an interesting place.
Also NW solicits contributions via onboard announcements for "Air Cares" as similar program.
Jun 5, 2008 | 7:26 pm
#4
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2008
Programs: US Dividend Miles
Posts: 333
In researching a soon to occur trip to Poland, I found a website that stated that Poland and Iceland are now part of the Schengen group, thus this was your first point of entry into Europe and therefore pass control. This is just like what happens when one connects in Amsterdam to points East.
Good report and looking forward to the rest. Too bad that you did not book an Iceland stopover since Iceland is really an interesting place.
Also NW solicits contributions via onboard announcements for "Air Cares" as similar program.
Good report and looking forward to the rest. Too bad that you did not book an Iceland stopover since Iceland is really an interesting place.
Also NW solicits contributions via onboard announcements for "Air Cares" as similar program.
Interesting that NW does the same gig. Perhaps someone in the industry can comment on this -- is the money used to defray flights that connect on other airlines? Or simply to reduce the charity's impact on the airline's bottom line?
No Iceland stopover? Say it ain't so! Stay tuned for the return trip
Jun 5, 2008 | 8:40 pm
#5
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2008
Programs: US Dividend Miles
Posts: 333
Part 2:
London to Brussels Midi on Eurostar
Brussels Midi to Köln HBf on Thalys
To follow:
Köln HBf to Copenhagen on DB CityNightLine
CPH-KEF on Icelandair
KEF-BOS on Icelandair
BOS-PIT on US Airways
So I'm now in London with an afternoon, an evening, and a morning until it's time to catch the Eurostar. In a real break with tradition, I shelled out the cash for a formal tour; normally I dread that sort of thing, but with such short time I wanted to be sure I'd see a few of the London sights. The tour came with a little boat ride on the Thames and a walking tour that I did the next morning. While I don't regret the $44 I spent on it, the random little adventures I had in London were still more fun. Things like riding a real London double-decker bus towards Trafalgar Square -- a free ride, when the fare collector saw that I had 1 quid and 5 quid for a 2 quid ride and waved me onto the bus. Things like having a British fish-and-chips in Leicester Square. Things like wandering through Lillywhites and picking out an FC Celtic jacket (80% off!) to keep me warm in the rest of my time in the north. By the time I got back to Jesmond Dene, it was 10pm and I was exhausted. Good night, world!
The next morning I awoke, enjoyed the hotel's English breakfast, and set out. The changing-of-the-guard walking tour didn't start for an hour and a half, so I hopped on the Underground to visit Abbey Road. Read the graffiti for a little while, my favorite being a love letter from a husband to his wife and an adjacent one written with the same marker -- from her, back to him. Both were plays on Beatles lyrics, with "Karl" telling "Maphine" that he "wants to hold [her] hand... forever" and her responding that "I love you, yeah, yeah, yeah" -- adding that she's still the same girl he fell in love with, 43 years ago! Sadly I had no marker with which to offer my own tribute, but contented myself with a picture next to the Abbey Road sign. The girl who took my picture had a very familiar accent... and I had run into a fellow Pittsburgher, 3000 short miles from home! We laughed about it before I took my leave to catch the Underground back to the tour.
If I have to be on a tour, a walking tour is my first choice. You see so much more than you would on a bus, sitting in traffic and wondering whether the guy in the delivery van will let you past... in this case, just after we'd all taken pictures with a guard, a group of young guys stood close to that same guard, linked arms around each other's shoulders, and started dancing while loudly singing some sort of traditional drinking song. The scene was hilarious, and when the guard finally smiled slightly, the whole group burst into cheers. Ah... London!
By this point it was getting close to noon, and I headed back towards the Tube. Signs had been everywhere on the Underground warning that drinking on the trains would be forbidden starting June 1st. That wasn't for another 36 hours -- so I rode along, quenching my thirst with a British shandy I'd picked up at Eat. Tasty, actually, and a bit reminiscent of the Radler I'd tried in Germany.
In London, the Eurostar and other international trains are handled by a special international wing of St Pancras train station. The interior is modernised and quite attractive; the wait for my train passed quickly, and I soon found myself in my 1st-class seat.
It is difficult to overstate how much I loved this part of the trip. The Eurostar left on time in an almost silent gathering of speed as we admired the British countryside through its wide, clean picture windows and sipped champagne. And the food! This being an afternoon train, Eurostar served its experimental new Afternoon Tea service. The service consisted of three organic sandwiches (one egg-and-mayo and the other two based on salmon, all delicious), a scone with clotted cream and jam, fresh strawberries, and a Victoria sponge cake with fresh redcurrants. Champagne was topped up, and tea (of course!) was also served. Did I mention this was served on porcelain and glass, with real utensils?
Service was likewise attentive and professional, even in dealing with a very challenging passenger seated near me. She had started her trip with an "I hate trains!" and went downhill from there during the Chunnel crossing, but the staff made time to deal with her and prevent her from going completely haywire. She turned down the staffer's proffered sedative (!) but responded well to another top-up or two of champagne and some soothing words. The staff saved her trip, and in doing so probably also saved mine. Good work.
This brought me to Brussels Midi. My pocket was not picked (though I was careful and observant), but that's about the extent of the praise I can give that station. Got on the Thalys, which was also on time; how to summarize it? I suppose I'd say that the Thalys is everything that the Eurostar is, only less so. It was luxurious, sort of; the food was decent, but not as memorable; the countryside flew past, but did so through dirty windows. The rail car itself was dirty and had a broken hand dryer in the restroom. I'd wondered beforehand if the Eurostar's higher prices indicated anything or whether the Thalys was simply a bargain. In retrospect, I got what I paid for.
After my adventures in Köln HBf itself (where I learned about random German passport checks...) and a bit of a wait, I boarded the CityNightLine train. Yes, Deutsche Bahn was late -- believe it or not! In fairness, it was pouring down rain and we were only about 10 minutes behind leaving Köln. Stepped into my room, placed my order for the next morning's coffee and wakeup time, received a little bottle of champagne from the conductor, and took my shower. This required creativity: the shower switched off automatically every 30 seconds or so, and the water was lukewarm at best. Perhaps a way to keep people from using the train's water supply for lengthy showers? Regardless, it still felt great after a long day's travels, and I went to bed refreshed.
By the time the gentle alarm beep went off at 7 am, I was already awake; the conductor came to my door shortly after to ask if I was ready for breakfast, but I was shaving. He returned in five minutes to fold up the bed and set a table for breakfast. The repast was simple, but tasty: two thin slices of pork, a roll, a croissant, coffee, orange juice, and yogurt. In essence it was the more elaborate of the two DB breakfast boxes, plus the pork and the yogurt. Rested and refreshed, I watched the final leg of the journey as we pulled into Copenhagen. Next: time to figure out the Copenhagen system.
London to Brussels Midi on Eurostar
Brussels Midi to Köln HBf on Thalys
To follow:
Köln HBf to Copenhagen on DB CityNightLine
CPH-KEF on Icelandair
KEF-BOS on Icelandair
BOS-PIT on US Airways
So I'm now in London with an afternoon, an evening, and a morning until it's time to catch the Eurostar. In a real break with tradition, I shelled out the cash for a formal tour; normally I dread that sort of thing, but with such short time I wanted to be sure I'd see a few of the London sights. The tour came with a little boat ride on the Thames and a walking tour that I did the next morning. While I don't regret the $44 I spent on it, the random little adventures I had in London were still more fun. Things like riding a real London double-decker bus towards Trafalgar Square -- a free ride, when the fare collector saw that I had 1 quid and 5 quid for a 2 quid ride and waved me onto the bus. Things like having a British fish-and-chips in Leicester Square. Things like wandering through Lillywhites and picking out an FC Celtic jacket (80% off!) to keep me warm in the rest of my time in the north. By the time I got back to Jesmond Dene, it was 10pm and I was exhausted. Good night, world!
The next morning I awoke, enjoyed the hotel's English breakfast, and set out. The changing-of-the-guard walking tour didn't start for an hour and a half, so I hopped on the Underground to visit Abbey Road. Read the graffiti for a little while, my favorite being a love letter from a husband to his wife and an adjacent one written with the same marker -- from her, back to him. Both were plays on Beatles lyrics, with "Karl" telling "Maphine" that he "wants to hold [her] hand... forever" and her responding that "I love you, yeah, yeah, yeah" -- adding that she's still the same girl he fell in love with, 43 years ago! Sadly I had no marker with which to offer my own tribute, but contented myself with a picture next to the Abbey Road sign. The girl who took my picture had a very familiar accent... and I had run into a fellow Pittsburgher, 3000 short miles from home! We laughed about it before I took my leave to catch the Underground back to the tour.
If I have to be on a tour, a walking tour is my first choice. You see so much more than you would on a bus, sitting in traffic and wondering whether the guy in the delivery van will let you past... in this case, just after we'd all taken pictures with a guard, a group of young guys stood close to that same guard, linked arms around each other's shoulders, and started dancing while loudly singing some sort of traditional drinking song. The scene was hilarious, and when the guard finally smiled slightly, the whole group burst into cheers. Ah... London!
By this point it was getting close to noon, and I headed back towards the Tube. Signs had been everywhere on the Underground warning that drinking on the trains would be forbidden starting June 1st. That wasn't for another 36 hours -- so I rode along, quenching my thirst with a British shandy I'd picked up at Eat. Tasty, actually, and a bit reminiscent of the Radler I'd tried in Germany.
In London, the Eurostar and other international trains are handled by a special international wing of St Pancras train station. The interior is modernised and quite attractive; the wait for my train passed quickly, and I soon found myself in my 1st-class seat.
It is difficult to overstate how much I loved this part of the trip. The Eurostar left on time in an almost silent gathering of speed as we admired the British countryside through its wide, clean picture windows and sipped champagne. And the food! This being an afternoon train, Eurostar served its experimental new Afternoon Tea service. The service consisted of three organic sandwiches (one egg-and-mayo and the other two based on salmon, all delicious), a scone with clotted cream and jam, fresh strawberries, and a Victoria sponge cake with fresh redcurrants. Champagne was topped up, and tea (of course!) was also served. Did I mention this was served on porcelain and glass, with real utensils?
Service was likewise attentive and professional, even in dealing with a very challenging passenger seated near me. She had started her trip with an "I hate trains!" and went downhill from there during the Chunnel crossing, but the staff made time to deal with her and prevent her from going completely haywire. She turned down the staffer's proffered sedative (!) but responded well to another top-up or two of champagne and some soothing words. The staff saved her trip, and in doing so probably also saved mine. Good work.
This brought me to Brussels Midi. My pocket was not picked (though I was careful and observant), but that's about the extent of the praise I can give that station. Got on the Thalys, which was also on time; how to summarize it? I suppose I'd say that the Thalys is everything that the Eurostar is, only less so. It was luxurious, sort of; the food was decent, but not as memorable; the countryside flew past, but did so through dirty windows. The rail car itself was dirty and had a broken hand dryer in the restroom. I'd wondered beforehand if the Eurostar's higher prices indicated anything or whether the Thalys was simply a bargain. In retrospect, I got what I paid for.
After my adventures in Köln HBf itself (where I learned about random German passport checks...) and a bit of a wait, I boarded the CityNightLine train. Yes, Deutsche Bahn was late -- believe it or not! In fairness, it was pouring down rain and we were only about 10 minutes behind leaving Köln. Stepped into my room, placed my order for the next morning's coffee and wakeup time, received a little bottle of champagne from the conductor, and took my shower. This required creativity: the shower switched off automatically every 30 seconds or so, and the water was lukewarm at best. Perhaps a way to keep people from using the train's water supply for lengthy showers? Regardless, it still felt great after a long day's travels, and I went to bed refreshed.
By the time the gentle alarm beep went off at 7 am, I was already awake; the conductor came to my door shortly after to ask if I was ready for breakfast, but I was shaving. He returned in five minutes to fold up the bed and set a table for breakfast. The repast was simple, but tasty: two thin slices of pork, a roll, a croissant, coffee, orange juice, and yogurt. In essence it was the more elaborate of the two DB breakfast boxes, plus the pork and the yogurt. Rested and refreshed, I watched the final leg of the journey as we pulled into Copenhagen. Next: time to figure out the Copenhagen system.
Jun 10, 2008 | 5:53 pm
#8
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2008
Programs: US Dividend Miles
Posts: 333
Part 3:
Kln HBf to Copenhagen on DB CityNightLine
CPH-KEF on Icelandair
To follow:
KEF-BOS on Icelandair
BOS-PIT on US Airways
More accurately, I should say we're starting with the end of my Kln-Copenhagen train trip. When we left off, I had stepped off the DB train to a beautiful Danish morning at Kobenhavn H, the main railway station in Copenhagen. (I know I should be typing an O with a line through it, but I don't have any idea how to type that on this machine. Grammarians are free to add it mentally.
)
Alright, I need to get a ticket before getting on the S-train. Here's a ticket machine. It takes coins (which I don't have) or a credit card (which I do). Unfortunately there's a bug in the system; European credit cards have PIN numbers, but American ones don't, and the Danish ticket machines don't realize this. I tried a second ticket machine just in case, and was on the verge of reluctantly trying my hand at fare-jumping until I asked a young couple if there was an ATM in the area. There is -- on the far end of the station. Doh! Lugging my 20kg suitcase (thank God for wheels!) I slowly made my way there. A quick stop at McDonalds afterwards ensured that I had some change, and with ticket in hand I set out. My conference provided a Copenhagen metro card good for 72 hours, and I made the most of it: staying in the outskirts of CPH in a town called Naerum, riding the Metro all around, and (the best part!) riding around in the water taxi. Yeah, there's a boat that's part of the public transportation system. Love it! On my last day I did try a canal tour, and it certainly shows you more than the water taxi would, but still...
Oh, back to the CPH metro system. It has the S-trains (like the German S-bahn) and the metro itself, which corresponds to the U-bahn. This is possibly the easiest metro system I've seen so far: there are only two lines, each in two directions. Trains come frequently and are driverless (!) -- so the front seat gets an incredible view, especially as you're entering and leaving the tunnels. Needless to say this is quite a popular seat
but if you have a metro card, it's worth riding towards one end and then riding back just to have a chance at it.
What a beautiful city it is. I know I've already said that, but it bears repeating. One day I bought Thai food from a restaurant called Thai Away, with 3 seats -- all next to the stove, with no A/C! After a brief attempt to eat in the restaurant, I took my food with me and went for a walk. A few minutes later I was in a gorgeous park, slowly enjoying my pad thai and watching a lazy sunset.
On Monday, my last full day in CPH, I was walking near Kastellet when I came upon what looked like four young friends cooking enough food for six or eight people. I had a few beers in my backpack that I'd bought as souvenirs, but a trade seemed logical, and the five of us had a wonderful conversation over burgers and beer. It was so spontaneous, so... Copenhagen.
Alas, time was up, and on Tuesday afternoon I headed out to Kastrup airport to catch my flight. This proved to be one of the very few unpleasant surprises in CPH, with food prices that frankly boggle the imagination. I passed up the $23 serving of lasagna and the $30 "wok" (a small serving of rice with an even smaller portion of Asian-style fried meat), likewise taking a pass on the similarly pricey hamburger before settling on two slices of pizza and a bottle of water. My tab? $15. In honor of the prices, I was humming "Take Me Out to the Ballgame"...
It's the same problem that my own home airport (PIT) had before the massive renovation -- a single concessionaire, or a small group, and prices reflecting the monopoly.
Moral of the story: if you're flying through Kastrup, bring food! The dumb part is that I'd been at Netto (a Danish market) earlier in the day -- I was kicking myself for not stocking up. You live, you learn...
Arrived in Iceland late in the evening, bought my ticket to the guesthouse on the FlyBus (airport shuttle), went to bed. Next stop: the Blue Lagoon.
Kln HBf to Copenhagen on DB CityNightLine
CPH-KEF on Icelandair
To follow:
KEF-BOS on Icelandair
BOS-PIT on US Airways
More accurately, I should say we're starting with the end of my Kln-Copenhagen train trip. When we left off, I had stepped off the DB train to a beautiful Danish morning at Kobenhavn H, the main railway station in Copenhagen. (I know I should be typing an O with a line through it, but I don't have any idea how to type that on this machine. Grammarians are free to add it mentally.
)Alright, I need to get a ticket before getting on the S-train. Here's a ticket machine. It takes coins (which I don't have) or a credit card (which I do). Unfortunately there's a bug in the system; European credit cards have PIN numbers, but American ones don't, and the Danish ticket machines don't realize this. I tried a second ticket machine just in case, and was on the verge of reluctantly trying my hand at fare-jumping until I asked a young couple if there was an ATM in the area. There is -- on the far end of the station. Doh! Lugging my 20kg suitcase (thank God for wheels!) I slowly made my way there. A quick stop at McDonalds afterwards ensured that I had some change, and with ticket in hand I set out. My conference provided a Copenhagen metro card good for 72 hours, and I made the most of it: staying in the outskirts of CPH in a town called Naerum, riding the Metro all around, and (the best part!) riding around in the water taxi. Yeah, there's a boat that's part of the public transportation system. Love it! On my last day I did try a canal tour, and it certainly shows you more than the water taxi would, but still...
Oh, back to the CPH metro system. It has the S-trains (like the German S-bahn) and the metro itself, which corresponds to the U-bahn. This is possibly the easiest metro system I've seen so far: there are only two lines, each in two directions. Trains come frequently and are driverless (!) -- so the front seat gets an incredible view, especially as you're entering and leaving the tunnels. Needless to say this is quite a popular seat
but if you have a metro card, it's worth riding towards one end and then riding back just to have a chance at it.What a beautiful city it is. I know I've already said that, but it bears repeating. One day I bought Thai food from a restaurant called Thai Away, with 3 seats -- all next to the stove, with no A/C! After a brief attempt to eat in the restaurant, I took my food with me and went for a walk. A few minutes later I was in a gorgeous park, slowly enjoying my pad thai and watching a lazy sunset.
On Monday, my last full day in CPH, I was walking near Kastellet when I came upon what looked like four young friends cooking enough food for six or eight people. I had a few beers in my backpack that I'd bought as souvenirs, but a trade seemed logical, and the five of us had a wonderful conversation over burgers and beer. It was so spontaneous, so... Copenhagen.
Alas, time was up, and on Tuesday afternoon I headed out to Kastrup airport to catch my flight. This proved to be one of the very few unpleasant surprises in CPH, with food prices that frankly boggle the imagination. I passed up the $23 serving of lasagna and the $30 "wok" (a small serving of rice with an even smaller portion of Asian-style fried meat), likewise taking a pass on the similarly pricey hamburger before settling on two slices of pizza and a bottle of water. My tab? $15. In honor of the prices, I was humming "Take Me Out to the Ballgame"...
It's the same problem that my own home airport (PIT) had before the massive renovation -- a single concessionaire, or a small group, and prices reflecting the monopoly.
Moral of the story: if you're flying through Kastrup, bring food! The dumb part is that I'd been at Netto (a Danish market) earlier in the day -- I was kicking myself for not stocking up. You live, you learn...
Arrived in Iceland late in the evening, bought my ticket to the guesthouse on the FlyBus (airport shuttle), went to bed. Next stop: the Blue Lagoon.