Air Koryo (JS) Y class - PEK to FNJ (Pyongyang)
Jun 7, 2005, 2:17 pm
#63
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: CP-ASEL,AMEL,G-IA in Tucson, Arizona, United States
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I'm in a naughty mood...
I'd like to go there someday too, if I knew I could get away with walking a dog past the statue of the, "Great Leader" 
"Honest, it was just trying to wash off the statue!"
Thanks for the great trip reports.
"Honest, it was just trying to wash off the statue!"
Thanks for the great trip reports.
Jun 9, 2005, 6:29 am
#68
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Outstanding stuff K. ^ ^ One of the best trip reports I've ever read. ^ ^
P.S.: I hope the more mundane stuff such as the NH experience was fun too.
P.S.: I hope the more mundane stuff such as the NH experience was fun too.
Jun 9, 2005, 2:14 pm
#69
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Thanks for all the kind words - and to anyone contemplating visiting I strongly recommend you do. Re-reading my own words I still feel I am not getting the sense of complete dislocation from the western world across. See it for yourself instead!
Day 5 Pyongyang and Nampo
By DPRK standards, a late start at 9am. And for once I wasn’t woken by the siren at 7am. Another profoundly average meal and we were in the bus again to Pyongyang - the birthplace of Kim Il Sung. Again, the mists of propaganda from both sides make it tough to know the truth but certainly the DPRK place great store by the memorial their. It was also the busiest place in the whole with simply thousands of people being ushered through.
The memorial itself was a recreation of the house where the Great Leader’s family lived in the early 20th century. While mildly diverting (after all you don’t find many Koran farmers’ houses in Central London) the real interest was the hordes of DPRK citizens passing through. Some felt more confident and were happy enough to make eye contact and even smile - but most looked at us out of the corner of their eyes, shuffled past and chattered away about the funny imperialists they could see. I caught one group of girls out though - I heard someone ask in Russian ‘Russki?’ and get the reply ‘Nyet, Angliski’. This used 3 of the 6 Russian words I know, and it gave me great pleasure to reply ‘Da, Angliski’. That did get quite a reaction - lots of giggling before the omnipresent megaphone wielding guides started hustling the college party on. Interesting to reflect that is the closest I got to talking to a ‘normal’ DPRK citizen in the entire 9 days.
There was a little bit of flower laying going on, but generally the atmosphere was more festive with many women in their brightly coloured Hangbok. A quick snack stop for some very palatable ice cream gave us more chance to watch the wave of humanity passing though - including many soldiers in uniform.
After this it was time for one of the highlights of the trip - the Pyongyang Metro. Anyone who has visited Moscow or St Petersburg will be familiar with the concept - both operationally and decoratively. However the experience was a whole lot more. Initially the station looked very familiar - the slightly scary looking barrier gates and the long, long escalator down into the earth, no advertising in sight. Past the inevitable blast door and into the platform proper. Being a naughtily little soul I had skipped on ahead of the rest of the group and was treated to the sight of the station staff frantically switching on the main lights to lift the platforms out of the stygian gloom. Gotcha!, especially as 30 seconds later martial music started booming out of the loudspeaker system.
The décor was really full on - a huge mural of Kim Il Sung at one end and the most ornate marble work throughout the station - I have to say even more impressive and colourful than Moscow. Down the length of the platform were displays holding the Korean Workers Times for the proletariat to read. Trains trundled in and out every few minutes disgorging people, giving lie to the rumour that the system is only switched on for tourists., The lights yes, thousands of people, no. A short train ride on the ex Berlin U Bahn carriages (denied by the guides but the Lenz electrical box rather gave it away) took us to another equally ornamented station, with truly odd Christmas tree style lights. Back up the long escalator to the surface and we had a couple of minutes to create mild panic amongst the local populace by taking photos of everything. We also saw our first disabled person, thus demolishing another myth.
Before lunch we stopped off at the Grand People’s Study house. Built in what is best described as modern Traditional Korean style it houses a whole host of educational facilities for the average Korean worker. There is the obligatory Kim Il Sung statue in the foyer, set against a charming pink background. Inside there was a rare Kim Jong Il poster - they are notable by their absence in many public locations. Inside the inevitable, gargantuan echoing corridors (all designed to dwarf you I am sure) lead to endless rooms of books, Taiwanese PC’s, language labs and even a couple of music rooms - where entertainingly Waltzing Matilda was playing for the benefit of the Australian group members! The roof terrace gave great views out over Kim Il Sung square - and of a huge squad practising some impressive mass dancing for the Arirang festival.
Lunch was the best meal yet - Korean hot pot or Chongol. Pot of bubbling stock in the middle of the table, add meat, chilli, garlic, salt and vegetables to taste and wash down with cold Taegonggang beer. Very enjoyable indeed!
The afternoon outing took us out to Nampo on the west coast. The drive down was along an epic 10 lane youth highway, yet again devoid of traffic. Why youth? Because it was built the youth of the DPRK! Nampo is a port city and there were signs of genuine trade activity - a few container on trucks and even two small ships in port. The city was full of hustle and bustle too, albeit mostly on foot on the streets. The buildings were nothing special - the same badly made identikit parts contributing to an uninspired whole, with equally mean looking low rise housing behind. A particularly desolate drive through salt flats took us to the West Sea barrage - a true feat of socialist labour . The barrage created a huge reservoir where the Taegong river flowed into the sea, enabling more shipping movements in and out of the port and creating a freshwater environment for fish. The obligatory visitor centre had the obligatory stirring propaganda video celebrating the astonishing achievement, with the Kim‘s offering much on the spot guidance. An impressive bit of building work, but as I am not engineer I was left just a little bit cold.
On the way back to Pyongyang we stopped for a little stroll around Nampo. This didn’t last for long as the local busybodies/state security were soon on us and after some heated words with our guide we were soon sent back on the bus and back to the city. We also saw a rare sign of enterprise - the Whistle car factory where normal, modern western style cars are made in conjunction with a Chinese partner.
Another big dinner of the same basic parts - cold fish, kimchi, potato cakes and noodles was washed down with some vile acorn shochu and the evening degenerated into a boozy night of story telling and karaoke. I was the last man standing at 1.30am and just about managed to stagger off to bed. The mid trip phone call home was pretty incoherent - I am sure those listening had great trouble working out what rubbish I was spouting.
Day 5 Pyongyang and Nampo
By DPRK standards, a late start at 9am. And for once I wasn’t woken by the siren at 7am. Another profoundly average meal and we were in the bus again to Pyongyang - the birthplace of Kim Il Sung. Again, the mists of propaganda from both sides make it tough to know the truth but certainly the DPRK place great store by the memorial their. It was also the busiest place in the whole with simply thousands of people being ushered through.
The memorial itself was a recreation of the house where the Great Leader’s family lived in the early 20th century. While mildly diverting (after all you don’t find many Koran farmers’ houses in Central London) the real interest was the hordes of DPRK citizens passing through. Some felt more confident and were happy enough to make eye contact and even smile - but most looked at us out of the corner of their eyes, shuffled past and chattered away about the funny imperialists they could see. I caught one group of girls out though - I heard someone ask in Russian ‘Russki?’ and get the reply ‘Nyet, Angliski’. This used 3 of the 6 Russian words I know, and it gave me great pleasure to reply ‘Da, Angliski’. That did get quite a reaction - lots of giggling before the omnipresent megaphone wielding guides started hustling the college party on. Interesting to reflect that is the closest I got to talking to a ‘normal’ DPRK citizen in the entire 9 days.
There was a little bit of flower laying going on, but generally the atmosphere was more festive with many women in their brightly coloured Hangbok. A quick snack stop for some very palatable ice cream gave us more chance to watch the wave of humanity passing though - including many soldiers in uniform.
After this it was time for one of the highlights of the trip - the Pyongyang Metro. Anyone who has visited Moscow or St Petersburg will be familiar with the concept - both operationally and decoratively. However the experience was a whole lot more. Initially the station looked very familiar - the slightly scary looking barrier gates and the long, long escalator down into the earth, no advertising in sight. Past the inevitable blast door and into the platform proper. Being a naughtily little soul I had skipped on ahead of the rest of the group and was treated to the sight of the station staff frantically switching on the main lights to lift the platforms out of the stygian gloom. Gotcha!, especially as 30 seconds later martial music started booming out of the loudspeaker system.
The décor was really full on - a huge mural of Kim Il Sung at one end and the most ornate marble work throughout the station - I have to say even more impressive and colourful than Moscow. Down the length of the platform were displays holding the Korean Workers Times for the proletariat to read. Trains trundled in and out every few minutes disgorging people, giving lie to the rumour that the system is only switched on for tourists., The lights yes, thousands of people, no. A short train ride on the ex Berlin U Bahn carriages (denied by the guides but the Lenz electrical box rather gave it away) took us to another equally ornamented station, with truly odd Christmas tree style lights. Back up the long escalator to the surface and we had a couple of minutes to create mild panic amongst the local populace by taking photos of everything. We also saw our first disabled person, thus demolishing another myth.
Before lunch we stopped off at the Grand People’s Study house. Built in what is best described as modern Traditional Korean style it houses a whole host of educational facilities for the average Korean worker. There is the obligatory Kim Il Sung statue in the foyer, set against a charming pink background. Inside there was a rare Kim Jong Il poster - they are notable by their absence in many public locations. Inside the inevitable, gargantuan echoing corridors (all designed to dwarf you I am sure) lead to endless rooms of books, Taiwanese PC’s, language labs and even a couple of music rooms - where entertainingly Waltzing Matilda was playing for the benefit of the Australian group members! The roof terrace gave great views out over Kim Il Sung square - and of a huge squad practising some impressive mass dancing for the Arirang festival.
Lunch was the best meal yet - Korean hot pot or Chongol. Pot of bubbling stock in the middle of the table, add meat, chilli, garlic, salt and vegetables to taste and wash down with cold Taegonggang beer. Very enjoyable indeed!
The afternoon outing took us out to Nampo on the west coast. The drive down was along an epic 10 lane youth highway, yet again devoid of traffic. Why youth? Because it was built the youth of the DPRK! Nampo is a port city and there were signs of genuine trade activity - a few container on trucks and even two small ships in port. The city was full of hustle and bustle too, albeit mostly on foot on the streets. The buildings were nothing special - the same badly made identikit parts contributing to an uninspired whole, with equally mean looking low rise housing behind. A particularly desolate drive through salt flats took us to the West Sea barrage - a true feat of socialist labour . The barrage created a huge reservoir where the Taegong river flowed into the sea, enabling more shipping movements in and out of the port and creating a freshwater environment for fish. The obligatory visitor centre had the obligatory stirring propaganda video celebrating the astonishing achievement, with the Kim‘s offering much on the spot guidance. An impressive bit of building work, but as I am not engineer I was left just a little bit cold.
On the way back to Pyongyang we stopped for a little stroll around Nampo. This didn’t last for long as the local busybodies/state security were soon on us and after some heated words with our guide we were soon sent back on the bus and back to the city. We also saw a rare sign of enterprise - the Whistle car factory where normal, modern western style cars are made in conjunction with a Chinese partner.
Another big dinner of the same basic parts - cold fish, kimchi, potato cakes and noodles was washed down with some vile acorn shochu and the evening degenerated into a boozy night of story telling and karaoke. I was the last man standing at 1.30am and just about managed to stagger off to bed. The mid trip phone call home was pretty incoherent - I am sure those listening had great trouble working out what rubbish I was spouting.
Jun 9, 2005, 4:12 pm
#70
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I too want to ride the Pyongyang Metro. I do have a question regarding the turning on of the lights.
Do they turn the lights on only when the cars arrive and when people enter the station? If there were "real people" riding this subway, wouldn't the lights be on all the time since there would be constant entering and exiting?
Thanks and look forward to more!
Do they turn the lights on only when the cars arrive and when people enter the station? If there were "real people" riding this subway, wouldn't the lights be on all the time since there would be constant entering and exiting?
Thanks and look forward to more!
Jun 10, 2005, 3:07 am
#71
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Originally Posted by CApreppie
I too want to ride the Pyongyang Metro. I do have a question regarding the turning on of the lights.
Do they turn the lights on only when the cars arrive and when people enter the station? If there were "real people" riding this subway, wouldn't the lights be on all the time since there would be constant entering and exiting?
Do they turn the lights on only when the cars arrive and when people enter the station? If there were "real people" riding this subway, wouldn't the lights be on all the time since there would be constant entering and exiting?
Day 6 will be along sometime over the weekend.
Jun 10, 2005, 11:38 am
#72
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Day 6 Pyongyang and Mount Myohyang
A nasty hangover saw in day 6. I overslept, missed breakfast and only just made it to the bus on time, trailing alcohol fumes on the way. An apple and a 2 euro snickers bar snarfed on the bus don’t compensate for the absence of a full English breakfast.
Hangover’s don’t make visit to Revolutionary Museum’s any easier. Being stitched up with the job of group leader made it even worse. Every your has a leader and while up until today a rep from the tour company had been with us I was now entrusted with the group visa (eek) and was now expected to make decisions when things go wrong. I had to choose where we went in the museum - and opted for post war reconstruction. This was not a popular choice - endless displays showing 5 year plans exceeded all merged into one. Out guide was keen for us to see everything and took great trouble to explain every exhibit….for 2.5 hours. Still it was fun to see our every move tracked by the security cameras and I got a great reaction when I opened a door I wasn’t supposed to! As you can tell, the intense messages in the DPRK started to get overwhelming for the first time and we were glad to escape into the open again, under a heavy leaden sky.
The highlight of the morning was a visit to 3 utterly brilliant propaganda posters lining one of the main streets. Classics of Socialist Realism art they made for magnificent photos. We did think that the third poster featuring the hands of the three Koreas (North, South, Overseas) crushing a US bomb and sloganed ‘Break the US Imperialists attempts at Nuclear War through strong coalition’ was impressive but unlikely to help the cause of peace.
Another mediocre lunch preceded an afternoon of odd activities. A visit to an embroidery factory upset the Ethical Trading Inspector in me - some dreadfully working conditions with lots of young women risking their eyesight to churn revolutionary slogans and terribly kitsch , cutesy wall hangings. Plenty were on offer in the store, but not many takers. It tickled me that wherever we went, there was always a small shop offering souvenirs. Even in this most Socialist of countries a heartbeat of capitalism can be found.
The Clothing Industrial exhibition was pretty offbeat. Three huge rooms full of clothes for export purposes at some interesting prices - Euro 2 for t-shirt through to Euro 140 for a suit. Good workmanship, shocking fabric in 1970’s styles. Again, not many buyers. However the area around the exhibition was much more interesting with a hustle and bustle closer to Asia than anywhere else in the DRPK (residents with Kim badges not withstanding). There were even a couple of restaurants and some small shops that seemed to be doing a roaring trade. My attempts to stroll over for a look were yet again repelled by 2 dragons who had much in common with a BA lounge warden.
After this we set off for a long drive into the hills to Mount Myohyang. The grey sky made everywhere look especially depressing and the drab towns and communes we passed through looked like the end of the world. No sign of industrial activity, just people walking and farming. Really quite heartbreaking and the scenes lead to much speculation about what of the outside world the residents of these town’s actually know. Not much we concluded.
Out hotel was a surreal modernist pyramid topped by the inevitable revolving restaurant and set in a lush green valley. Dinner was in a huge empty restaurant and the post prandial karaoke taken in what must have once been a conference room with a gigantic chandelier. The opportunity of singing ‘Hey Jude; in those kitsch surroundings would have been worth Euro 6 for in Kreuzberg or Hoxton we concluded. Oh, and the hotel only had hot water for 2 hours in the morning and evening. Nice.
A nasty hangover saw in day 6. I overslept, missed breakfast and only just made it to the bus on time, trailing alcohol fumes on the way. An apple and a 2 euro snickers bar snarfed on the bus don’t compensate for the absence of a full English breakfast.
Hangover’s don’t make visit to Revolutionary Museum’s any easier. Being stitched up with the job of group leader made it even worse. Every your has a leader and while up until today a rep from the tour company had been with us I was now entrusted with the group visa (eek) and was now expected to make decisions when things go wrong. I had to choose where we went in the museum - and opted for post war reconstruction. This was not a popular choice - endless displays showing 5 year plans exceeded all merged into one. Out guide was keen for us to see everything and took great trouble to explain every exhibit….for 2.5 hours. Still it was fun to see our every move tracked by the security cameras and I got a great reaction when I opened a door I wasn’t supposed to! As you can tell, the intense messages in the DPRK started to get overwhelming for the first time and we were glad to escape into the open again, under a heavy leaden sky.
The highlight of the morning was a visit to 3 utterly brilliant propaganda posters lining one of the main streets. Classics of Socialist Realism art they made for magnificent photos. We did think that the third poster featuring the hands of the three Koreas (North, South, Overseas) crushing a US bomb and sloganed ‘Break the US Imperialists attempts at Nuclear War through strong coalition’ was impressive but unlikely to help the cause of peace.
Another mediocre lunch preceded an afternoon of odd activities. A visit to an embroidery factory upset the Ethical Trading Inspector in me - some dreadfully working conditions with lots of young women risking their eyesight to churn revolutionary slogans and terribly kitsch , cutesy wall hangings. Plenty were on offer in the store, but not many takers. It tickled me that wherever we went, there was always a small shop offering souvenirs. Even in this most Socialist of countries a heartbeat of capitalism can be found.
The Clothing Industrial exhibition was pretty offbeat. Three huge rooms full of clothes for export purposes at some interesting prices - Euro 2 for t-shirt through to Euro 140 for a suit. Good workmanship, shocking fabric in 1970’s styles. Again, not many buyers. However the area around the exhibition was much more interesting with a hustle and bustle closer to Asia than anywhere else in the DRPK (residents with Kim badges not withstanding). There were even a couple of restaurants and some small shops that seemed to be doing a roaring trade. My attempts to stroll over for a look were yet again repelled by 2 dragons who had much in common with a BA lounge warden.
After this we set off for a long drive into the hills to Mount Myohyang. The grey sky made everywhere look especially depressing and the drab towns and communes we passed through looked like the end of the world. No sign of industrial activity, just people walking and farming. Really quite heartbreaking and the scenes lead to much speculation about what of the outside world the residents of these town’s actually know. Not much we concluded.
Out hotel was a surreal modernist pyramid topped by the inevitable revolving restaurant and set in a lush green valley. Dinner was in a huge empty restaurant and the post prandial karaoke taken in what must have once been a conference room with a gigantic chandelier. The opportunity of singing ‘Hey Jude; in those kitsch surroundings would have been worth Euro 6 for in Kreuzberg or Hoxton we concluded. Oh, and the hotel only had hot water for 2 hours in the morning and evening. Nice.
Jun 10, 2005, 4:11 pm
#73
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I am curious as to the currency used in DPRK. You mention all prices in Euros...is that the currency you used there? Does the DPRK have their own currency? (Which foreigners aren't allowed to use?)
Great report! ^^
Great report! ^^
Jun 11, 2005, 4:11 am
#74
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Originally Posted by qasr
I am curious as to the currency used in DPRK. You mention all prices in Euros...is that the currency you used there? Does the DPRK have their own currency? (Which foreigners aren't allowed to use?)
The fall of the iron curtain abolished the middle type and about 8-10 years ago the decision was taken to abolish the visitors Won and deal directly in hard currency. Initially dollars were used until GWB started sabre rattling when the Euro was picked up instead. Everything a foreign visitor can buy is denominiated in Euros, but in reality pretty much any currency can be used - I either spent or received as change US dollars, Chinese RMB, Sterling, Hong Kong Dollars and Yen as well as Euro's! There is a chronic change shortage.
Jun 11, 2005, 7:54 am
#75
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,558
Do any of you who are writing "I want to go there!" have any idea about where those fees you pay would end up? They go directly to the DPRK government. Every "dime". 
If that doesn't give you some insight into why you should spend your tourist dollars, pounds, etc. elsewhere, then you need to pursue a little more education on the current situation in North Korea. Please do an internet search on human rights and living conditions in this place that seems "so cool", "bizzarre" and "really different" to some of you. As a tourist, you get to leave when the holiday is over. And you get to eat. And you get to leave your country to begin with. And your relatives aren't forced into concentration camps if you commit a "crime against the state". Tourism is big business, and the common folk are not the winners here. Please make an educated decision!
If that doesn't give you some insight into why you should spend your tourist dollars, pounds, etc. elsewhere, then you need to pursue a little more education on the current situation in North Korea. Please do an internet search on human rights and living conditions in this place that seems "so cool", "bizzarre" and "really different" to some of you. As a tourist, you get to leave when the holiday is over. And you get to eat. And you get to leave your country to begin with. And your relatives aren't forced into concentration camps if you commit a "crime against the state". Tourism is big business, and the common folk are not the winners here. Please make an educated decision!