Air Koryo (JS) Y class - PEK to FNJ (Pyongyang)
May 13, 2005, 11:45 am
#32
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Originally Posted by oiRRio
BTW what was the nightlife like? 
'After a hectic day of sightseeing it’s time to unwind at The Egyptian Palace which, as one of the tour group remarked, is simultaneously Pyongyang’s best and worst nightclub – the best in that it’s the only nightclub in the city (and maybe the entire country come to think of it), and the worst in that it must be one of the worst nightclubs in the world (though it naturally faces stiff competition from Dontino’s Nightspot in Hexham, England for those of you who have had the dubious pleasure).
Located in the basement of the Yanggakdo Hotel it has a number of facilities (run by companies from Macao) to accommodate the burgeoning Chinese tourist market (North Korea is the only country they don’t need a visa to visit), including karaoke boxes, a brothel and a casino, which bears the distinction of being possibly the only legitimate casino in the world where you can witness house dealers fumbling their hand and prompting customer outrage as games are halted (twice on the night we were there, and the tour guides said they’d seen it happen before). If any of you are card-counters, or have autistic brothers like Dustin Hoffman in the movie Rainman, I highly recommend a trip to Pyongyang as you’ll probably be able to take this place to the cleaners. And if not, the $5 chips with Pyongyang printed on them make great souvenirs'
May 13, 2005, 2:16 pm
#33
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Join Date: Jul 2002
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Originally Posted by fbgdavidson
From here:[/url] (which has some fascinating photos and funny commentary)
The casino is wierd, and the nightclub so bad that karaoke becomes a very desirable nightlife idea indeed. I even learnt most of the words to a DPRK tune...
May 13, 2005, 2:39 pm
#34
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Photos available using the same log on details as the flight report
Day 1 - Arrival and (dis)orientation
The arrival hall was thinning out by the time we had got through customs. The terminal building is pretty small - think small regional airport the car park right outside. A car park largely devoid of cars…
Our bus was waiting outside and we were introduced to our guide. A small note at this point. In order to provide some protection for those that I met (at the recommendation of the tour company), I am going to avoid using their real names - let’s just call him Mr Li. He had 2 trainees - let’s call then Miss Kim and Mr Park. Mr Li seemed a very decent guy and on the bus drive into Pyongyang gave us a comprehensive run down of what to expect, and what not to do. One of the big no-no’s in the DPRK is photography. The authorities are unhappy about people just snapping photos - we were only to take pictures with our guides permission and certainly not out of the windows of the bus or train. This way we would avoid creating problems for anyone. Frustrating but it is their country. He then gave us a run down of what the next 7 days would have in store.
Of course I was listening with one ear, but really my attention was focussed on the scenes sliding past the bus window. Pulling out of the airport we drove into Pyongyang along the main highway from the North. First - and most striking - was the total absence of traffic. Most of us live in societies were traffic jams and transportation delays are pretty common. Here the roads are empty save for the occasional private car and bus. After starting to adjust to this we drove through a small village. White faced 2 and 3 story houses lined the road. Not a shop in sight, but a huge red banner hung over the road - in Korean obviously. We drove past a small group of school kids, all dressed in what looked a lot like the Soviet Young Pioneers outfit. Red scarf, white shirt and dark trousers. Everywhere there were people walking, dressed in sober colours.
The ear that was listening picked up that we were heading for the circus. Yes, the circus. I vaguely remembered reading in the Bradt Guide to North Korea (proof that everywhere now has at least 1 guidebook) the circus was spectacular but still it seemed a rather bizarre way to start the trip.
Into Pyongyang proper and the volume of people walking increase dramatically and we past a few very overcrowded trolleybuses and trams with long queues of people waiting patiently. Still not much road traffic. Cutting through the city we turned onto Kwangbok street - a huge development constructed in the 1980’s. Accommodation for something like 20,000 people was built - all in socialist apartment blocks on either side of an epic (and very empty) 10 line highway. Quite spectacular, as were the crowds of people pouring into the circus building - many soldiers, lots of kids in the aforementioned uniforms along with normal North Koreans. Some unorthodox transport was being used judging from the trucks in the car park. We were ushered into the auditorium by a side door, but still proved to be quite an attraction. 30,000 pairs of eyes turned as one to watch the handful of funny big nosed people walk in. We were quite a conversation killer.
Given prime seats near the front the looks continued. Occasions like this have a tendency to bring out the naughty in me - so I stood up and waved with both hands at everyone around us. I got few waves by return, a lot of giggling and a stern warning to behave myself. Naughty Swanhunter.
I’ve not been to the circus for a long time and the performance was pretty impressive. Lots of gymnastics (including some pretty scary stuff a long way up in the air) some good clowning the brought the roof down (especially with the soldiers) and a horse riding display to finish off an interesting hour. The half expected display of bears did not materialise. Talking afterwards we found out that a trip to the circus is great treat - certainly those around us enjoyed it almost as much as they enjoyed goggling at us on the way out!
We then drove on to our base for the next few days - the Yanggakdo International Hotel. 43 stories high and topped off with a revolving restaurant the hotel sits at the tip of an island in the middle of the Taedong River flowing through the centre of the city. We were given an hour to get our bearings and sort ourselves out before dinner. The lobby was fairly ornate, and especially notable for the two large light up flowers by the lifts - one a Kimilsungia, the other a Kimjongilia.
As the photos show, my room was pretty international standard - and the views were certainly spectacular from the 43rd floor. Of considerable interest was the hard currency shop in the lobby area, which sold a good selection of treats - beer, soft drinks and chocolate to name but three! There were also two memorable souvenir shops…more of which anon.
Korean food has a mixed reputation around the world. Personally I find it quite tasty and enjoy kimchi - others I know detest the stuff. The National Restaurant where we ate on the first night certainly gave us a good introduction to the DPRK version. I can’t recall it all but there was plenty of kimchi, some other cold dishes one of which is a green bean pancakes - a Pyongyang speciality . A little over greasy but when washed down with a glass of rather tasty Taedonggang tolerable. Entertainment was provided on stage with some high powered Korean singing. We enquired what was being sung and was pleased to find out that we had just heard several songs in praise of the Great and Dear Leaders. Memorable. Dinner also gave a chance to get to know one's fellow travellers a bit better. To my delight (having been very apprehensive about travelling on a tour) they were a uniformly charming, witty, cosmopolitan and well travelled bunch.
A couple of beers back at the hotel and a game of bowls round off an surreal first day. What will tomorrow bring?
Day 1 - Arrival and (dis)orientation
The arrival hall was thinning out by the time we had got through customs. The terminal building is pretty small - think small regional airport the car park right outside. A car park largely devoid of cars…
Our bus was waiting outside and we were introduced to our guide. A small note at this point. In order to provide some protection for those that I met (at the recommendation of the tour company), I am going to avoid using their real names - let’s just call him Mr Li. He had 2 trainees - let’s call then Miss Kim and Mr Park. Mr Li seemed a very decent guy and on the bus drive into Pyongyang gave us a comprehensive run down of what to expect, and what not to do. One of the big no-no’s in the DPRK is photography. The authorities are unhappy about people just snapping photos - we were only to take pictures with our guides permission and certainly not out of the windows of the bus or train. This way we would avoid creating problems for anyone. Frustrating but it is their country. He then gave us a run down of what the next 7 days would have in store.
Of course I was listening with one ear, but really my attention was focussed on the scenes sliding past the bus window. Pulling out of the airport we drove into Pyongyang along the main highway from the North. First - and most striking - was the total absence of traffic. Most of us live in societies were traffic jams and transportation delays are pretty common. Here the roads are empty save for the occasional private car and bus. After starting to adjust to this we drove through a small village. White faced 2 and 3 story houses lined the road. Not a shop in sight, but a huge red banner hung over the road - in Korean obviously. We drove past a small group of school kids, all dressed in what looked a lot like the Soviet Young Pioneers outfit. Red scarf, white shirt and dark trousers. Everywhere there were people walking, dressed in sober colours.
The ear that was listening picked up that we were heading for the circus. Yes, the circus. I vaguely remembered reading in the Bradt Guide to North Korea (proof that everywhere now has at least 1 guidebook) the circus was spectacular but still it seemed a rather bizarre way to start the trip.
Into Pyongyang proper and the volume of people walking increase dramatically and we past a few very overcrowded trolleybuses and trams with long queues of people waiting patiently. Still not much road traffic. Cutting through the city we turned onto Kwangbok street - a huge development constructed in the 1980’s. Accommodation for something like 20,000 people was built - all in socialist apartment blocks on either side of an epic (and very empty) 10 line highway. Quite spectacular, as were the crowds of people pouring into the circus building - many soldiers, lots of kids in the aforementioned uniforms along with normal North Koreans. Some unorthodox transport was being used judging from the trucks in the car park. We were ushered into the auditorium by a side door, but still proved to be quite an attraction. 30,000 pairs of eyes turned as one to watch the handful of funny big nosed people walk in. We were quite a conversation killer.
Given prime seats near the front the looks continued. Occasions like this have a tendency to bring out the naughty in me - so I stood up and waved with both hands at everyone around us. I got few waves by return, a lot of giggling and a stern warning to behave myself. Naughty Swanhunter.
I’ve not been to the circus for a long time and the performance was pretty impressive. Lots of gymnastics (including some pretty scary stuff a long way up in the air) some good clowning the brought the roof down (especially with the soldiers) and a horse riding display to finish off an interesting hour. The half expected display of bears did not materialise. Talking afterwards we found out that a trip to the circus is great treat - certainly those around us enjoyed it almost as much as they enjoyed goggling at us on the way out!
We then drove on to our base for the next few days - the Yanggakdo International Hotel. 43 stories high and topped off with a revolving restaurant the hotel sits at the tip of an island in the middle of the Taedong River flowing through the centre of the city. We were given an hour to get our bearings and sort ourselves out before dinner. The lobby was fairly ornate, and especially notable for the two large light up flowers by the lifts - one a Kimilsungia, the other a Kimjongilia.
As the photos show, my room was pretty international standard - and the views were certainly spectacular from the 43rd floor. Of considerable interest was the hard currency shop in the lobby area, which sold a good selection of treats - beer, soft drinks and chocolate to name but three! There were also two memorable souvenir shops…more of which anon.
Korean food has a mixed reputation around the world. Personally I find it quite tasty and enjoy kimchi - others I know detest the stuff. The National Restaurant where we ate on the first night certainly gave us a good introduction to the DPRK version. I can’t recall it all but there was plenty of kimchi, some other cold dishes one of which is a green bean pancakes - a Pyongyang speciality . A little over greasy but when washed down with a glass of rather tasty Taedonggang tolerable. Entertainment was provided on stage with some high powered Korean singing. We enquired what was being sung and was pleased to find out that we had just heard several songs in praise of the Great and Dear Leaders. Memorable. Dinner also gave a chance to get to know one's fellow travellers a bit better. To my delight (having been very apprehensive about travelling on a tour) they were a uniformly charming, witty, cosmopolitan and well travelled bunch.
A couple of beers back at the hotel and a game of bowls round off an surreal first day. What will tomorrow bring?
Last edited by Swanhunter; May 14, 2005 at 3:06 am
May 13, 2005, 3:05 pm
#35
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 591
Originally Posted by N227UA
A very well-written report!
North Korea is the toughest country to visit in the world without a question.
BTW, in my understanding, North Korea widely accepts Americans for visiting. FYI, only 1500 foreigners are permitted to visit North Korea each year. Did you have any personal security issue in North Korea?
North Korea is the toughest country to visit in the world without a question.
BTW, in my understanding, North Korea widely accepts Americans for visiting. FYI, only 1500 foreigners are permitted to visit North Korea each year. Did you have any personal security issue in North Korea?
This is unfortunately not true. I have actually inquired with Koryo Tours about a visa and it's a definite no to Americans and S. Koreans. There have been occasional exceptions made but not for several years as I understand it (and given the current difficulties w/ the DPRK I'm not holding my breath).
As I understand it N. Korea is actually one of the safest countries in the world for tourists (Certainly safer than say, Afghanistan). You'd be in an organized tour and quite isolated from the general population.
A Brit named Simon Bone visited a few years ago and has a great travel log online. Check it out at http://www.simonbone.com/myohyang.html There's lots more all over the net, do a google search.
May 14, 2005, 1:06 pm
#36
Join Date: Nov 2004
Programs: AA PLAT, MAR Gold, Hilton Gold
Posts: 42
If you have looked at the pictures posted by others in this thread you will see one of the North korean DMZ guards with the South Koreasn DMZ guards behind them. The North's guards are in a dress uniform while the South's Guards are in camo uniforms. Anyway, notice that the South and North guards are facing the same direction- that is towards North Korea.
That is right, the North's guards are more concerned with who may be trying to leave North Korea for the South than they are about the South Korean's coming over to the North. What a place- keeping their own people in is more important than keeping the enemy out.
The reason ther guards face North is that there have been incidents of attemptive defections from North to South, one of these was highly publiced and lead to a running gun battle when a Soviet tried to run across back in the 80s.
I'd like to visit the North myself- but I will not spent one cent in a country that starves and tortures its own people. I am not passing judgement on those who go there though and I look forward to reading the rest of the trip report.
That is right, the North's guards are more concerned with who may be trying to leave North Korea for the South than they are about the South Korean's coming over to the North. What a place- keeping their own people in is more important than keeping the enemy out.
The reason ther guards face North is that there have been incidents of attemptive defections from North to South, one of these was highly publiced and lead to a running gun battle when a Soviet tried to run across back in the 80s.
I'd like to visit the North myself- but I will not spent one cent in a country that starves and tortures its own people. I am not passing judgement on those who go there though and I look forward to reading the rest of the trip report.
May 15, 2005, 5:06 pm
#38
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Germany
Posts: 3,807
Excellent trip report, thanks for taking your time to write it. I would love to visit North Korea some day myself, however I am unsure if I could survive one week without my mobile phone So I really enjoyed reading a trip report by a FlyerTalker, and cannot wait for more installments!
How long in advance did you have to book the trip?
Did the border guards confiscate your mobile phone and/or other electronic devices? Did you take any gadgets with you at all?
Is it possible to somehow influence the choice of food served? As I understand, some Korean dishes are made with dogmeat, not sure I could make myself eat it, and refusing it outright would probably offend the hosts.
Since the flight was full, did they ask for volunteers?
So I really enjoyed reading a trip report by a FlyerTalker, and cannot wait for more installments! How long in advance did you have to book the trip?
Did the border guards confiscate your mobile phone and/or other electronic devices? Did you take any gadgets with you at all?
Is it possible to somehow influence the choice of food served? As I understand, some Korean dishes are made with dogmeat, not sure I could make myself eat it, and refusing it outright would probably offend the hosts.
Since the flight was full, did they ask for volunteers?
May 15, 2005, 9:22 pm
#39
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Indianapolis, IN USA
Posts: 2,066
Great line:
> Occasions like this have a tendency to bring out
> the naughty in me - so I stood up and waved with
> both hands at everyone around us. I got few
> waves by return, a lot of giggling and a stern
> warning to behave myself. Naughty Swanhunter.
I'm a serious camera freak and it would be SO HARD not be taking a billion photos EVERYWHERE!
> Occasions like this have a tendency to bring out
> the naughty in me - so I stood up and waved with
> both hands at everyone around us. I got few
> waves by return, a lot of giggling and a stern
> warning to behave myself. Naughty Swanhunter.
I'm a serious camera freak and it would be SO HARD not be taking a billion photos EVERYWHERE!
May 15, 2005, 9:30 pm
#40
Join Date: Nov 2004
Programs: AA PLAT, MAR Gold, Hilton Gold
Posts: 42
Is it possible to somehow influence the choice of food served? As I understand, some Korean dishes are made with dogmeat, not sure I could make myself eat it, and refusing it outright would probably offend the hosts.
I spent four years in the South and my Wife is a South Korean, now US citizen; I speak from experience when I say that dog meat (kagoki) is not a staple of the Korean diet (recall that the North and South are split becuase of politics - they are the same people). Dog meat is mostly consummed by older people and the eating of it is frowned upon by the typical South Korean. I must assume the same goes for the North.
I spent four years in the South and my Wife is a South Korean, now US citizen; I speak from experience when I say that dog meat (kagoki) is not a staple of the Korean diet (recall that the North and South are split becuase of politics - they are the same people). Dog meat is mostly consummed by older people and the eating of it is frowned upon by the typical South Korean. I must assume the same goes for the North.
May 16, 2005, 8:59 am
#41
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Terra Australis Cognita
Posts: 5,350
Originally Posted by Unicorn123
Dog meat is mostly consummed by older people and the eating of it is frowned upon by the typical South Korean. I must assume the same goes for the North.
And count me in for the first Pyongyang DO as soon as the Kim regime kicks the bucket...
May 16, 2005, 10:47 am
#42
FlyerTalk Evangelist
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: SE1, London
Posts: 23,444
Originally Posted by cockpitvisit
How long in advance did you have to book the trip?
Did the border guards confiscate your mobile phone and/or other electronic devices? Did you take any gadgets with you at all?
Is it possible to somehow influence the choice of food served? As I understand, some Korean dishes are made with dogmeat, not sure I could make myself eat it, and refusing it outright would probably offend the hosts.
Since the flight was full, did they ask for volunteers?
Did the border guards confiscate your mobile phone and/or other electronic devices? Did you take any gadgets with you at all?
Is it possible to somehow influence the choice of food served? As I understand, some Korean dishes are made with dogmeat, not sure I could make myself eat it, and refusing it outright would probably offend the hosts.
Since the flight was full, did they ask for volunteers?
* I left my phone in Beijing. The search is pretty vigourous and they will find it if you try and smuggle it in - however you do have the option of leaving your phone at the airport and picking it up on departure. iPod's and digital cameras are fine - GPS are not!
* We just got served food - no choice at all. There are dog meat restaurants in Pyongyang but the tour company are sensitive to the fact that many Westerners wouldn't want to eat it. I've tried it in the past and wouldn't be an in a rush to eat canine again.
* No volunteers - just involuntary instead.
Unicorn123 I looked at my photos from the North and South sides and while there is one soldier facing back, there are others facing south. Given how tightly controlled movement is in the DPRK there isn't much risk of people running over the border. Certainly very few DPRK citizens would ever be allowed to visit Panmumjom.
May 18, 2005, 2:32 pm
#43
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: SE1, London
Posts: 23,444
Day 2 - May Day
Jet lag saw me wide awake at 4am. Nice. The view out the window was pretty strange - in a capital city of 2 million you would expect to see thousands of street lights flickering away. In Pyongyang? Just darkness, broken by the occasional light in an apartment window. So little noise too save for the occasional hooting training. Quite eerie.
By the time the sun came up banks of fog were rolling over the city, wrapping it in soft grey cotton wool. After a less than memorable breakfast of bread and yoghurt (well do YOU eat kimchi for breakfast?) we headed off for a city tour. First stop was the chance to walk a little around the city centre, admiring the modernist architecture on display. It was the first chance to really talk to the guides too - through how do you explain to someone who has virtually never left Pyongyang why you needed to have visit 90+ countries?
Next stop was the Mansudae Grand Monument. This consist of a gigantic 20metre status of Kim Il Sung flanked by some of the finest Socialist Realism sculptures I’ve ever soon. Hopefully the photos will bring those to life. We were expected to pay out respects to the statue by buying a bunch of flowers (Euro 1 a throw), presenting them at the base of the statue and bowing. You are also strongly encouraged not to be respectful in the photos you take - no side or rear shot or anything ’funny’. It may well stick in your throat, but the gesture is much respected by the North Korean’s. Certainly an unusual experience. We were far from alone in doing so - there were large groups of local citizens doing just the same including another group of magnificently be-medalled solders.
Back on the road we were off to Mount Daesung to see the DPRK at play. The road took us past Kumsusan, the palace mausoleum of Kim Il Sung. Troop after troop of soldiers were marching there, singing patriotic songs and all proudly carrying the DPRK flag, or that of the Korean Workers party. The mausoleum itself is a gigantic Stalinist style building - but with all the windows bricked up and a vast square out front where the soldiers were assembling to pay their respects.
Mount Daesung is a large amusement park a little outside Pyongyang. As today was a public holiday the park was packed with local citizens having fun. After the sombreness of the weather and the morning sights it was a delight to see people laughing, joking and having fun. There were plenty of conventional delights - roller coasters, a log flume as well as more unconventional sights. The tug of war was fun (and big noses were welcome to join in) but the sight of locals playing bayonet the big nose solider left me feeling rather uncomfortable. (See the photos for the evidence). An insight into impact the events of 50 years ago still has in the national psyche. There were also signs of commerce - stalls selling snacks, beer and some remarkable bubble gum flavoured cider.
Another unmemorable meal of kimchi, spinach, pickled things, cold fish and plain rice was washed down with a big bottle of beer. The afternoon took us to Moran Hill where we were promised a chance to mingle just a little with the locals. The promise came true. There were picnicking groups everywhere - and while many were indifferent or actually uncomfortable at our presence others were delighted to see us. There was much drinking and dancing going on already and we were encouraged to join in. I don’t think any of us got away without a least one song, dance or shot of shochu. Very memorable, and a fascinating way to spent an afternoon. Certainly the amount of food being consumed indicated that the country had largely overcome its food problems in the 1990’s, though there is still much foreign aid being distributed in the country.
We walked off the hill down to Kim Il Sung square. As you would expect it is a monumental affair, flanked by the Great People’s Study House and a number of ministries, most adorned with some cracking propaganda. It also gave the chance to take a photo of the wide, open empty street running through the middle. Across the Taedong River is the Juche Tower. Time for a quick political philosophy break. Juche is the theory espoused by both the Kin’s. It encompasses a strong streak of self reliance, communist economic theory, and the cult of the Kim’s and is the ruling ideology of the DPRK, hence the 170 metre tall tower with a Juche flame on top to commemorate it. It also provides the backdrop to many wedding photos - not dissimilar to the Tomb of the Unknown soldier in many ex-Soviet cities.
The view from the tower gave another aspect on the city, particularly some of the older houses still to be found in the west of the city. My vertigo started to kick in as we were a long way up , with a very low barrier and a strong wind. Ugghh! Back down the bottom we were let of the leash for 15 minutes, giving us the chance to wander around a little and look at the impressive statue depicting the three constituent members of the Korean Workers Party - Farmer, Worker and Intellectual - as manifested by the hammer, sickle and writing brush.
A final visit to the monument to the Koran Workers party was memorable largely because I feel asleep on the coach (bloody jet lag) and couldn’t be arsed to get off. The light was crap for photos anyhow. Dinner was at the top of the TV tower, reached by the slowest lift imaginable. 170 metres in about 4 minutes. The food slipped into the traditional routine of DPRK specialities. Frankly the view was more interesting - the sun setting over the city, a brightly lit Kim statue dominating the sky line and the flame on top of the Juche tower all aglow. The post meal Karaoke was impressive - the waitresses sung a couple of songs fantastically well and introduced us to our what would become the theme tune of our trip - a DPRK song called Panggapsumida - otherwise known as “Nice to meet you’. After all that excitement I collapsed into bed, desperate for a decent nights sleep.
Jet lag saw me wide awake at 4am. Nice. The view out the window was pretty strange - in a capital city of 2 million you would expect to see thousands of street lights flickering away. In Pyongyang? Just darkness, broken by the occasional light in an apartment window. So little noise too save for the occasional hooting training. Quite eerie.
By the time the sun came up banks of fog were rolling over the city, wrapping it in soft grey cotton wool. After a less than memorable breakfast of bread and yoghurt (well do YOU eat kimchi for breakfast?) we headed off for a city tour. First stop was the chance to walk a little around the city centre, admiring the modernist architecture on display. It was the first chance to really talk to the guides too - through how do you explain to someone who has virtually never left Pyongyang why you needed to have visit 90+ countries?
Next stop was the Mansudae Grand Monument. This consist of a gigantic 20metre status of Kim Il Sung flanked by some of the finest Socialist Realism sculptures I’ve ever soon. Hopefully the photos will bring those to life. We were expected to pay out respects to the statue by buying a bunch of flowers (Euro 1 a throw), presenting them at the base of the statue and bowing. You are also strongly encouraged not to be respectful in the photos you take - no side or rear shot or anything ’funny’. It may well stick in your throat, but the gesture is much respected by the North Korean’s. Certainly an unusual experience. We were far from alone in doing so - there were large groups of local citizens doing just the same including another group of magnificently be-medalled solders.
Back on the road we were off to Mount Daesung to see the DPRK at play. The road took us past Kumsusan, the palace mausoleum of Kim Il Sung. Troop after troop of soldiers were marching there, singing patriotic songs and all proudly carrying the DPRK flag, or that of the Korean Workers party. The mausoleum itself is a gigantic Stalinist style building - but with all the windows bricked up and a vast square out front where the soldiers were assembling to pay their respects.
Mount Daesung is a large amusement park a little outside Pyongyang. As today was a public holiday the park was packed with local citizens having fun. After the sombreness of the weather and the morning sights it was a delight to see people laughing, joking and having fun. There were plenty of conventional delights - roller coasters, a log flume as well as more unconventional sights. The tug of war was fun (and big noses were welcome to join in) but the sight of locals playing bayonet the big nose solider left me feeling rather uncomfortable. (See the photos for the evidence). An insight into impact the events of 50 years ago still has in the national psyche. There were also signs of commerce - stalls selling snacks, beer and some remarkable bubble gum flavoured cider.
Another unmemorable meal of kimchi, spinach, pickled things, cold fish and plain rice was washed down with a big bottle of beer. The afternoon took us to Moran Hill where we were promised a chance to mingle just a little with the locals. The promise came true. There were picnicking groups everywhere - and while many were indifferent or actually uncomfortable at our presence others were delighted to see us. There was much drinking and dancing going on already and we were encouraged to join in. I don’t think any of us got away without a least one song, dance or shot of shochu. Very memorable, and a fascinating way to spent an afternoon. Certainly the amount of food being consumed indicated that the country had largely overcome its food problems in the 1990’s, though there is still much foreign aid being distributed in the country.
We walked off the hill down to Kim Il Sung square. As you would expect it is a monumental affair, flanked by the Great People’s Study House and a number of ministries, most adorned with some cracking propaganda. It also gave the chance to take a photo of the wide, open empty street running through the middle. Across the Taedong River is the Juche Tower. Time for a quick political philosophy break. Juche is the theory espoused by both the Kin’s. It encompasses a strong streak of self reliance, communist economic theory, and the cult of the Kim’s and is the ruling ideology of the DPRK, hence the 170 metre tall tower with a Juche flame on top to commemorate it. It also provides the backdrop to many wedding photos - not dissimilar to the Tomb of the Unknown soldier in many ex-Soviet cities.
The view from the tower gave another aspect on the city, particularly some of the older houses still to be found in the west of the city. My vertigo started to kick in as we were a long way up , with a very low barrier and a strong wind. Ugghh! Back down the bottom we were let of the leash for 15 minutes, giving us the chance to wander around a little and look at the impressive statue depicting the three constituent members of the Korean Workers Party - Farmer, Worker and Intellectual - as manifested by the hammer, sickle and writing brush.
A final visit to the monument to the Koran Workers party was memorable largely because I feel asleep on the coach (bloody jet lag) and couldn’t be arsed to get off. The light was crap for photos anyhow. Dinner was at the top of the TV tower, reached by the slowest lift imaginable. 170 metres in about 4 minutes. The food slipped into the traditional routine of DPRK specialities. Frankly the view was more interesting - the sun setting over the city, a brightly lit Kim statue dominating the sky line and the flame on top of the Juche tower all aglow. The post meal Karaoke was impressive - the waitresses sung a couple of songs fantastically well and introduced us to our what would become the theme tune of our trip - a DPRK song called Panggapsumida - otherwise known as “Nice to meet you’. After all that excitement I collapsed into bed, desperate for a decent nights sleep.
Last edited by Swanhunter; May 19, 2005 at 12:36 pm
May 22, 2005, 1:13 am
#45
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Join Date: Dec 2003
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Fascinating. I recently made my first trip to S. Korea and didn't have a chance to visit the DMZ. I read about N. Korea in my LP guidebook and it sounded like another world. Look forward to reading more.