Ngorongoro and Serengeti Safari with the Aga Khan
Jun 21, 2004, 4:14 pm
#1
FlyerTalk Evangelist
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 1999
Programs: FB Silver going for Gold
Posts: 21,858
Ngorongoro and Serengeti Safari with the Aga Khan
Well, not by him but I was pleased to support no less than such an organisation. Die Oesterreicher and I decided to use Hilton points to book a SAF8 award last year. Coincidentally, the CX140A award at AA was being discontinued so I came up with 280k AA miles to get 2 CX YVR-HKG-JNB tickets and 2 JNB-NBO tickets on KQ using KL miles.
The northern Tanzanian parks are said to be wonderful so after much deciding, we decided for 3 nights each at Ngorongoro and Serengeti and 2 night to finish at Zanzibar.
Searching for companies, I found what appeared to be a local company called Serena Hotels and made my bookings with them through a Maina Mwangi at the Nairobi office. Only when I was reading Msafari, the KQ inflight magazine, enroute to NBO did I learn that the hotel chain is owned by the Aga Khan through the Aga Khan Development Network. Part of the auspices of the AKDN's Tourism Promotion Services is to promote environmentally-sensitive tourism and fund local economic development. More on this later.
6 June - Safari D-day
See this link for the NBO-JRO flight and a warning about getting to NBO early.
As we exited JRO customs, we found a big African man with a sign with our names and found Fabian, a driver with Bushbuck safaris. He was with a man in a colourful shirt who helped with the bags and said nothing - I was expecting him to ask for a tip. Only when we had loaded the Toyoto Landcruiser (a 3 row, 7 seater affair) did this man introduce himself as Giles and giving us his business card. Giles is a reservations agent with Serena's Arusha office and had come out on a Sunday to greet us. The drive from JRO to Arusha and the parks beyond was not long but a bit lengthy. Fabian is a slow but mostly safe driver and took us through town (to get a spare tube from Bushbuck headquarters - all the safari vehicles have 2 spare wheels/tires), dropped off Giles before asking us if we wanted to buy any liquor. Saying yes, he took us to a small tourist shop that didn't offer much. We asked him to take us to a modern supermarket back up the road which he gladly acceeded to (this is the one to use, they even take USD at a very fair rate). Bought water which turned out to be unnecessary at Serena supplies it.
One difference we noted when we were coming in from JRO to Arusha was the good utilisation of farm land. The local inhabitants are fairly industrial agriculturists who grow more than enough crops and have long supplied Arab caravans and traded with the Maasai historically. Corn and sunflowers were growing on almost every spare piece of soil.
Our drive continued towards Lake Manyara lodge deep in the Maasai area where we were to have lunch at the Serena resort there. Getting to the lake (nasty place for mosquitos reputedly) and then climbing up the escarpment. On our way up, we could see the lake fringed with pink and white blobs. Not algae but just unimaginable masses of lesser flamingos and some greater ones.
Getting to the lodge, we were a bit early for lunch when we arrived. Our arrival was radioed ahead and we were greeted by a host and brought cool towels and drinks by other staff before being led to the small pool area to await lunch. The meal was a very plush buffet affair and there was more selection than can be normally hoped for. The food was very good though quality and presentation varied throughout all 5 Serena hotels and lodges we were to use. The staff were generally very well trained and attentive, and quality also varied but was generally very good. Wine and beers can be expensive. A bottle of wine (almost all South African) would run USD20-24 and tax was generally included at the lodges but not at Zanzibar or Arusha. Beer costed USD 2-3.
After lunch, we continued up towards the caldera rim of Ngorongoro (pronounced "GorONG goro"). The road soon turned to dirt (it had be recently paved from the turnoff to Manyara to near park entrance with Japanese aid). At the park entrance, Fabian did the paper work. Entrance fees are not cheap - non-Tanzanians are required to pay USD25 per 24 hours in the conservation area - even if just passing through, and USD 30 for vehicles to enter the caldera. All this does go for a very good cause.
Continuing up, we saw elephant dung on the road which did surprise me as we were at nearly 7,000' elevation even in the tropics. Soon, we did come across 3 elephants and small herds of zebras when we got to the rim. The sight below was spectacular. Imagine a 260 km2 terrarium stocked with African wildlife (which can get in and out) and you have an idea of what it is. With a decent pair of binoculars, you can spot individual elephants and herds of buffalo, zebra and other animals from the rim 1,800' above.
The Serena Ngorongoro is one of 4 lodges on the Caldera rim and is the only owned built to blend it. It looks like a pile of stones and is very difficult to spot from the caldera unlike the 3 others. We were given a room on the top level and had an excellent view of the caldera floor (it is often called a crater which is wrong: Ngorongoro is a collapsed volcano and not created by meteor impact).
Too late to go down for a game drive, we settled into our room. Before dinner, an acrobatic show was given. Dinner was a 5 course semi-buffet affair. Appetiser choice of something or salad buffet, choice of 2 soups, 4 mains: one local/traditional, one veg and 2 others - traditional/local was tastiest is this used swahili spices. The chef hear seemed to favour cardamon. Dessert was buffet with at least 5 cooked desserts, assorted fruit and cheese.
The dining room seemed to favour groups which were given window seats (though the curtains were drawn and it was too dark to see anything outside) while couples were sat in the back. We asked our waitress Hamida to fix this which she gladly did.
Next: Down to the floor.
Please check when this link is brought up as I will post a link to pictures when I have chosen and uploaded the myriad of pictures (over 350 35mm pictures for this + 800 digital images).
The northern Tanzanian parks are said to be wonderful so after much deciding, we decided for 3 nights each at Ngorongoro and Serengeti and 2 night to finish at Zanzibar.
Searching for companies, I found what appeared to be a local company called Serena Hotels and made my bookings with them through a Maina Mwangi at the Nairobi office. Only when I was reading Msafari, the KQ inflight magazine, enroute to NBO did I learn that the hotel chain is owned by the Aga Khan through the Aga Khan Development Network. Part of the auspices of the AKDN's Tourism Promotion Services is to promote environmentally-sensitive tourism and fund local economic development. More on this later.
6 June - Safari D-day
See this link for the NBO-JRO flight and a warning about getting to NBO early.
As we exited JRO customs, we found a big African man with a sign with our names and found Fabian, a driver with Bushbuck safaris. He was with a man in a colourful shirt who helped with the bags and said nothing - I was expecting him to ask for a tip. Only when we had loaded the Toyoto Landcruiser (a 3 row, 7 seater affair) did this man introduce himself as Giles and giving us his business card. Giles is a reservations agent with Serena's Arusha office and had come out on a Sunday to greet us. The drive from JRO to Arusha and the parks beyond was not long but a bit lengthy. Fabian is a slow but mostly safe driver and took us through town (to get a spare tube from Bushbuck headquarters - all the safari vehicles have 2 spare wheels/tires), dropped off Giles before asking us if we wanted to buy any liquor. Saying yes, he took us to a small tourist shop that didn't offer much. We asked him to take us to a modern supermarket back up the road which he gladly acceeded to (this is the one to use, they even take USD at a very fair rate). Bought water which turned out to be unnecessary at Serena supplies it.
One difference we noted when we were coming in from JRO to Arusha was the good utilisation of farm land. The local inhabitants are fairly industrial agriculturists who grow more than enough crops and have long supplied Arab caravans and traded with the Maasai historically. Corn and sunflowers were growing on almost every spare piece of soil.
Our drive continued towards Lake Manyara lodge deep in the Maasai area where we were to have lunch at the Serena resort there. Getting to the lake (nasty place for mosquitos reputedly) and then climbing up the escarpment. On our way up, we could see the lake fringed with pink and white blobs. Not algae but just unimaginable masses of lesser flamingos and some greater ones.
Getting to the lodge, we were a bit early for lunch when we arrived. Our arrival was radioed ahead and we were greeted by a host and brought cool towels and drinks by other staff before being led to the small pool area to await lunch. The meal was a very plush buffet affair and there was more selection than can be normally hoped for. The food was very good though quality and presentation varied throughout all 5 Serena hotels and lodges we were to use. The staff were generally very well trained and attentive, and quality also varied but was generally very good. Wine and beers can be expensive. A bottle of wine (almost all South African) would run USD20-24 and tax was generally included at the lodges but not at Zanzibar or Arusha. Beer costed USD 2-3.
After lunch, we continued up towards the caldera rim of Ngorongoro (pronounced "GorONG goro"). The road soon turned to dirt (it had be recently paved from the turnoff to Manyara to near park entrance with Japanese aid). At the park entrance, Fabian did the paper work. Entrance fees are not cheap - non-Tanzanians are required to pay USD25 per 24 hours in the conservation area - even if just passing through, and USD 30 for vehicles to enter the caldera. All this does go for a very good cause.
Continuing up, we saw elephant dung on the road which did surprise me as we were at nearly 7,000' elevation even in the tropics. Soon, we did come across 3 elephants and small herds of zebras when we got to the rim. The sight below was spectacular. Imagine a 260 km2 terrarium stocked with African wildlife (which can get in and out) and you have an idea of what it is. With a decent pair of binoculars, you can spot individual elephants and herds of buffalo, zebra and other animals from the rim 1,800' above.
The Serena Ngorongoro is one of 4 lodges on the Caldera rim and is the only owned built to blend it. It looks like a pile of stones and is very difficult to spot from the caldera unlike the 3 others. We were given a room on the top level and had an excellent view of the caldera floor (it is often called a crater which is wrong: Ngorongoro is a collapsed volcano and not created by meteor impact).
Too late to go down for a game drive, we settled into our room. Before dinner, an acrobatic show was given. Dinner was a 5 course semi-buffet affair. Appetiser choice of something or salad buffet, choice of 2 soups, 4 mains: one local/traditional, one veg and 2 others - traditional/local was tastiest is this used swahili spices. The chef hear seemed to favour cardamon. Dessert was buffet with at least 5 cooked desserts, assorted fruit and cheese.
The dining room seemed to favour groups which were given window seats (though the curtains were drawn and it was too dark to see anything outside) while couples were sat in the back. We asked our waitress Hamida to fix this which she gladly did.
Next: Down to the floor.
Please check when this link is brought up as I will post a link to pictures when I have chosen and uploaded the myriad of pictures (over 350 35mm pictures for this + 800 digital images).
Jun 22, 2004, 3:05 am
#2
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: SYD
Programs: Too many golds, no plat: OZ*G, AC*G, NZ*G, VA Gold, QF Gold, HH Gold, Bonvoy Gold
Posts: 5,367
Interesting stuff - looking forward to more! Your style of travel was rather more luxurious than mine - we camped frugally on the rim of the caldera (and it was pretty bloody wet and chilly too - this was in May, I think) and we could only dream enviously of those enjoying drinks & dinner by a roaring fire in the swanky lodges. Still, we had a great time!
I'm curious to hear your impressions of Zanzibar, too - of any place I have visited on the planet, it is the one I'd most like to go back to, if nothing else for the amazing food market down on the waterfront each night. I hope you sampled it! The Serengeti was another favourite too.
I'm curious to hear your impressions of Zanzibar, too - of any place I have visited on the planet, it is the one I'd most like to go back to, if nothing else for the amazing food market down on the waterfront each night. I hope you sampled it! The Serengeti was another favourite too.
Jun 22, 2004, 4:49 am
#3
Moderator: American AAdvantage
Join Date: May 2000
Location: NorCal - SMF area
Programs: AA LT Plat; HH LT Diamond, Matre-plongeur des Muccis
Posts: 62,946
Mozzies at Lake Manyara indeed - As I recall, the town there is Mto wa Mbu (UMM-toe wah OOM-boo,) meaning "mosquito creek", essentially...
We were very fortunate when we visited some years ago- we were able to camp on the caldera floor for several days (near the Lerai Forest.) Those WERE the days.
Thanks for sharing - I'll look for the rest of your rpeorts on this trip.
We were very fortunate when we visited some years ago- we were able to camp on the caldera floor for several days (near the Lerai Forest.) Those WERE the days.
Thanks for sharing - I'll look for the rest of your rpeorts on this trip.
Jun 22, 2004, 1:13 pm
#4
FlyerTalk Evangelist
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 1999
Programs: FB Silver going for Gold
Posts: 21,858
1st visit to Ngorongoro
Waking up for breakfast opening at 0630 (a pretty big spread with eggs cooked to order), we left the lodge at 0700 by which time lots of safari trucks were waiting for their rides. The Serena lodge is relatively close to and between the descent and ascent roads (the Sopa, the sole hotel on the east side has its own road) into the caldera. Descending the steep and bumpy road, we saw Grant's gazelles and some elands before stopping at the bottom to open the roof. Some Maasai boys came along to sell spears and sticks but were asking way too much - they have become very commercial. Their presence, or absence, has some bearing on what species you may see.
Continuing on, we came across what appeared to us then as huge herds of wildebeest (white-bearded variety/species and zebras (Burchell's w/o the shadow striping). Apparently some of these and migrants who come to the caldera instead of follow the main migratory route. Other wildlife seen included the 3 species of large cats (leopards and cheetahs being the hardest to observe), black rhinos (seems it's the only area left in east Africa where you'll find them easily), bat-eared foxes, spotted hyenas, Thompson's gazelle, buffalo, male elephants (see reason later), the odd waterbuck, baboons (yellow or olive, I forget which), ostrichesm and of course hippopotamus. The latter have charming dual usage tails: the main purposes is to flip water to cool off, and the second for literally doing onto their rivals and social inferiors what humans do to theirs figuratively. There were many small bird species too though our guide wasn't too good with them. The soda(?) lake also hosts large flocks of lesser flamingos though not in as large numbers as Manyara, Natron and other lakes.
Though we had an early start, it wasn't long before there were lots of vehicles (record is over 100 a day). Crowding is one of the biggest drawbacks of this park and in the Serengeti. The drivers are in radio contact and swarm in on sightings of rarer species.
The terrain of the caldera floor is generally flat with rolling hills around the sides. Extremely good visibility except for the dust. There's an acacia forest that is apparently "moving" due to moisture conditions. Swamps and pools add habitat for water species such as hippos.
There's only 2 picnic spots where visitors can officially leave their vehicles. The main one is by a big pond (stocked with hippos) that you'll see just about every vehicle in the caldera stopped there for lunch. Some predatory bird species has apparently become adapt at taking visitors' meals.
You won't find any giraffes (the sole acacia species isn't their preferred food species), impalas (too open) or female/young elephants (foilage apparently too poor nutrionally) here. The female and young elephants are found on the rim and sides where foilage is much denser and presumably richer.
At the end of a long day, we made for the ascent road before too many got there. Passing the caldera rim airstrip, we were bemused to see it overrun with zebras. This evening's entertainment included Maasai dancing. It may be years of training or maybe it is genetics but after watching them "dance", you can understand why ethnic Africans dominate the N.B.A.
Afternoons and evenings at the lodge can be a bit tiresome. Unguided walks are forbidden as animals. Even on paths on hotel grounds, you'll find animal droppings (some large ruminant).
The second day was a similar affair except we skipped breakfast (expecting it to be packed when the driver has arranged for an 0600 breakfast but did not communicate that to us) for an early start. We got to the caldera floor and saw no Maasai boys but a pride of lions instead. Fabian told us that the lions avoid the Maasai (the boys are supposed to kill a lion before they are initiated as warriors) and various species such as eland, gazelles and zebras have come to realise that the Maasai are their unintended protectors.
The Maasai are a tribe who apparently moved south from Sudan some 500 years ago and vanquished 2 other tribes who lived in the area. They're cattle herders who love to accumulate cows - their main diet is cattle blood and milk. One book I read spectulates that they may carry on Roman culture through much earlier contact. They wear red robes which are essentially togas, wear sandals, carry short broad swords like the Roman legions (gladius) and also wield double-ended spears, one end of which is remarkbly like a pilum.
Ngorongoro was originally part of the Serengeti park but was removed from it to allow the Maasai to graze their cattle in the area (the Maasai were evicted from Serengeti).
Continuing on, we came across what appeared to us then as huge herds of wildebeest (white-bearded variety/species and zebras (Burchell's w/o the shadow striping). Apparently some of these and migrants who come to the caldera instead of follow the main migratory route. Other wildlife seen included the 3 species of large cats (leopards and cheetahs being the hardest to observe), black rhinos (seems it's the only area left in east Africa where you'll find them easily), bat-eared foxes, spotted hyenas, Thompson's gazelle, buffalo, male elephants (see reason later), the odd waterbuck, baboons (yellow or olive, I forget which), ostrichesm and of course hippopotamus. The latter have charming dual usage tails: the main purposes is to flip water to cool off, and the second for literally doing onto their rivals and social inferiors what humans do to theirs figuratively. There were many small bird species too though our guide wasn't too good with them. The soda(?) lake also hosts large flocks of lesser flamingos though not in as large numbers as Manyara, Natron and other lakes.
Though we had an early start, it wasn't long before there were lots of vehicles (record is over 100 a day). Crowding is one of the biggest drawbacks of this park and in the Serengeti. The drivers are in radio contact and swarm in on sightings of rarer species.
The terrain of the caldera floor is generally flat with rolling hills around the sides. Extremely good visibility except for the dust. There's an acacia forest that is apparently "moving" due to moisture conditions. Swamps and pools add habitat for water species such as hippos.
There's only 2 picnic spots where visitors can officially leave their vehicles. The main one is by a big pond (stocked with hippos) that you'll see just about every vehicle in the caldera stopped there for lunch. Some predatory bird species has apparently become adapt at taking visitors' meals.
You won't find any giraffes (the sole acacia species isn't their preferred food species), impalas (too open) or female/young elephants (foilage apparently too poor nutrionally) here. The female and young elephants are found on the rim and sides where foilage is much denser and presumably richer.
At the end of a long day, we made for the ascent road before too many got there. Passing the caldera rim airstrip, we were bemused to see it overrun with zebras. This evening's entertainment included Maasai dancing. It may be years of training or maybe it is genetics but after watching them "dance", you can understand why ethnic Africans dominate the N.B.A.
Afternoons and evenings at the lodge can be a bit tiresome. Unguided walks are forbidden as animals. Even on paths on hotel grounds, you'll find animal droppings (some large ruminant).
The second day was a similar affair except we skipped breakfast (expecting it to be packed when the driver has arranged for an 0600 breakfast but did not communicate that to us) for an early start. We got to the caldera floor and saw no Maasai boys but a pride of lions instead. Fabian told us that the lions avoid the Maasai (the boys are supposed to kill a lion before they are initiated as warriors) and various species such as eland, gazelles and zebras have come to realise that the Maasai are their unintended protectors.
The Maasai are a tribe who apparently moved south from Sudan some 500 years ago and vanquished 2 other tribes who lived in the area. They're cattle herders who love to accumulate cows - their main diet is cattle blood and milk. One book I read spectulates that they may carry on Roman culture through much earlier contact. They wear red robes which are essentially togas, wear sandals, carry short broad swords like the Roman legions (gladius) and also wield double-ended spears, one end of which is remarkbly like a pilum.
Ngorongoro was originally part of the Serengeti park but was removed from it to allow the Maasai to graze their cattle in the area (the Maasai were evicted from Serengeti).
Jun 22, 2004, 1:15 pm
#5
FlyerTalk Evangelist
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 1999
Programs: FB Silver going for Gold
Posts: 21,858
Originally Posted by JDiver
Mozzies at Lake Manyara indeed - As I recall, the town there is Mto wa Mbu (UMM-toe wah OOM-boo,) meaning "mosquito creek", essentially...
We were very fortunate when we visited some years ago- we were able to camp on the caldera floor for several days (near the Lerai Forest.) Those WERE the days.
Jun 22, 2004, 1:21 pm
#6
FlyerTalk Evangelist
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 1999
Programs: FB Silver going for Gold
Posts: 21,858
On to the Serengeti
After a somewhat leisurely breakfast (an 0800 start was the latest we had since coming to Africa) watching 3 families of Maasai drive their cattle into the caldera (they do this return trip every day), we headed off for the Serengeti.
The road is dusty and can be bumpy but that didn't stop several other safari vehicles from passing us. First stop was Olduvai gorge where the Leakeys did their archeological work. The gorge is named after the wild sisal plant, the Oldu Pai. Fabian asked us if we wanted to see the moving sand dune. This was incosequential but we did get to stay off the main road which was a nice diversion which afforded some game viewing (mainly giraffes).
Soon enough, we were on the great plains of the Serengeti ("sirenget" is the Maasai word for endless plain). Trouble: Not one wildebeest to be seen and nary any other species. Had we missed the migration?
The road is dusty and can be bumpy but that didn't stop several other safari vehicles from passing us. First stop was Olduvai gorge where the Leakeys did their archeological work. The gorge is named after the wild sisal plant, the Oldu Pai. Fabian asked us if we wanted to see the moving sand dune. This was incosequential but we did get to stay off the main road which was a nice diversion which afforded some game viewing (mainly giraffes).
Soon enough, we were on the great plains of the Serengeti ("sirenget" is the Maasai word for endless plain). Trouble: Not one wildebeest to be seen and nary any other species. Had we missed the migration?
Jun 23, 2004, 10:06 am
#7
FlyerTalk Evangelist
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 1999
Programs: FB Silver going for Gold
Posts: 21,858
Why the Aga Khan.....
Well, I can't say I ever met or even seen him but his family's presence was everywhere. Each lodge and hotel had a plaque by the entrance saying "opened by (some honorific titles) Prince Karim Aga Khan" or something like that. FWIW, the Aga Khan is the head of the Shia Ismaili sect of Islam.
The Serena Hotels was first opened in the '70s as part of the Aga Khan Development Network's Fund for Economic Development agency's Tourism Promotion Services. Other than that obvious function, the AKDN claims to promote local culture, environmentally-sustainable tourism, training, employment and economic development. Produce is sourced from local farms where possible. Locals (and nationals of east Africa nations for development purposes) are hired, trained and developed. Everyone we saw, from the most junior staff to management, were african. No need for expensive expatriates here when you can find equally-competent, or better, local staff. Last but not least, the AKDN believes in water conservation which is a necessity in these countries and their optional guest towel reuse policy is, we felt, more genuine than at other hotels. As an example, the Zanzibar hotel installed the first hotel sewage treatment plant (all others apparently dump straight into the sea) and burns waste for energy. The AKDN is also funding restoration of Stone Town buildings in conjunction with other agencies.
All rates and charges have a 5% service charge included which apparently is really distributed among all staff so tipping is unnecessary (though the porters seem to expect it). Optional gratuities on your bar tab apparently do go to the server (they're named on your final bill - and also service the next time you see them is better).
The results do show. The staff at the Serenas for the most part appeared to be genuinely warm, wanting to do whatever was necessary to make you feel welcome and taking action on your complaints and concerns. They also wanted you to fill out feedback forms and often read it, and asked for more feedback, before you even left!
Addenda on dining room service
Dining room service was very formal for the atmosphere (given that I've only dined in one place with a Michelin star). Servers would only serve from the right (space allowing) and wine service would always involve using and refoldng the bottle pouring cloth. I can't say I have had such formal service in the upper market (but not exhorbitant) restaurants in North America.
The Serena Hotels was first opened in the '70s as part of the Aga Khan Development Network's Fund for Economic Development agency's Tourism Promotion Services. Other than that obvious function, the AKDN claims to promote local culture, environmentally-sustainable tourism, training, employment and economic development. Produce is sourced from local farms where possible. Locals (and nationals of east Africa nations for development purposes) are hired, trained and developed. Everyone we saw, from the most junior staff to management, were african. No need for expensive expatriates here when you can find equally-competent, or better, local staff. Last but not least, the AKDN believes in water conservation which is a necessity in these countries and their optional guest towel reuse policy is, we felt, more genuine than at other hotels. As an example, the Zanzibar hotel installed the first hotel sewage treatment plant (all others apparently dump straight into the sea) and burns waste for energy. The AKDN is also funding restoration of Stone Town buildings in conjunction with other agencies.
All rates and charges have a 5% service charge included which apparently is really distributed among all staff so tipping is unnecessary (though the porters seem to expect it). Optional gratuities on your bar tab apparently do go to the server (they're named on your final bill - and also service the next time you see them is better).
The results do show. The staff at the Serenas for the most part appeared to be genuinely warm, wanting to do whatever was necessary to make you feel welcome and taking action on your complaints and concerns. They also wanted you to fill out feedback forms and often read it, and asked for more feedback, before you even left!
Addenda on dining room service
Dining room service was very formal for the atmosphere (given that I've only dined in one place with a Michelin star). Servers would only serve from the right (space allowing) and wine service would always involve using and refoldng the bottle pouring cloth. I can't say I have had such formal service in the upper market (but not exhorbitant) restaurants in North America.
Last edited by terenz; Jun 25, 2004 at 4:28 pm Reason: Adding comments
Jun 23, 2004, 2:32 pm
#8
FlyerTalk Evangelist
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 1999
Programs: FB Silver going for Gold
Posts: 21,858
Safari vehicle, photography and other considerations
Most vehicles (all generally Toyota LandCruisers and Land Rovers) are 4WD and are good but there are differences. Some vehicles come with pop-up roof tops while others have pop-off tops. Depending on the numbers in your party, this may make a huge difference in how enjoyable your safari is.
The pop up tops provide shade which is an important consideration. In still air, it gets unbearably hot even at the 4,800' level (Serengeti plains) and hence why you'll find many animals in the shade between 10am and 3 pm. Pop-off tops allow you to sit on the roof however. Pop-off tops have to be stowed somewhere. If your party is big with lots of luggage (there's little inside baggage room), bags may have to be put on the roof which may result in some passengers not being able to look out from above. Pop-up tops don't appear to have bags loaded on them but in front, so it may block forward visibility.
The vehicles generally seat 5-7 pax (excluding front passenger seat). 2, 3 at most, is ideal for a 5 pax vehicle, 4 for a 7 seater. It can get crowded if everyone actively wants to watch/photograph otherwise.
FWIW, our driver preferred LandCruisers. He feels they're much tighter and more reliable than Land Rovers, and also have 2 full-size fuel tanks. He could do Arusha-Serengeti and back with lots of game driving w/o refuelling.
Bushbuck seems to use LandCruisers. I think Roys is predominantly/exclusively Land Rover.
Photography and Optical Equipment
For animal photography, let alone that of birds, a long focal length lense is required. It's unbelievable that you need a 300mm (35mm equivalent) lense to photograph an elephant or giraffe 100' or less away but you do. I'd say a 400mm is minimum with a zoom to fill in the 100-300mm range. A monopod or mini tripod and/or bean bag would be good. Better yet, a gyro-stabilised lense (I've played around with a Canon EOS 85-300mm zoom and having the feature on does make a huge difference). Someone just shifting their weight in the vehicle is enough to jostle your shot.
Polarizing filters are highly recommended.
High speed film is also essential. You need high shutter speeds 1/1000 or faster) and high aperture values are also nice. Even with a big 300mm lense and 400 ASA film, I could not get more than the 2nd largest aperture at 1/1000.
And don't try it without an autofocus/autoexposure camera. My Olympus OM-1 just didn't cut it.
A good pair of binoculars for every passenger is essential. Better yet would be a gyro-stabilised pair (they're available for military, not sure if they have made in to the civilian market) as it's impossible to use when the vehicle is in motion otherwise.
The pop up tops provide shade which is an important consideration. In still air, it gets unbearably hot even at the 4,800' level (Serengeti plains) and hence why you'll find many animals in the shade between 10am and 3 pm. Pop-off tops allow you to sit on the roof however. Pop-off tops have to be stowed somewhere. If your party is big with lots of luggage (there's little inside baggage room), bags may have to be put on the roof which may result in some passengers not being able to look out from above. Pop-up tops don't appear to have bags loaded on them but in front, so it may block forward visibility.
The vehicles generally seat 5-7 pax (excluding front passenger seat). 2, 3 at most, is ideal for a 5 pax vehicle, 4 for a 7 seater. It can get crowded if everyone actively wants to watch/photograph otherwise.
FWIW, our driver preferred LandCruisers. He feels they're much tighter and more reliable than Land Rovers, and also have 2 full-size fuel tanks. He could do Arusha-Serengeti and back with lots of game driving w/o refuelling.
Bushbuck seems to use LandCruisers. I think Roys is predominantly/exclusively Land Rover.
Photography and Optical Equipment
For animal photography, let alone that of birds, a long focal length lense is required. It's unbelievable that you need a 300mm (35mm equivalent) lense to photograph an elephant or giraffe 100' or less away but you do. I'd say a 400mm is minimum with a zoom to fill in the 100-300mm range. A monopod or mini tripod and/or bean bag would be good. Better yet, a gyro-stabilised lense (I've played around with a Canon EOS 85-300mm zoom and having the feature on does make a huge difference). Someone just shifting their weight in the vehicle is enough to jostle your shot.
Polarizing filters are highly recommended.
High speed film is also essential. You need high shutter speeds 1/1000 or faster) and high aperture values are also nice. Even with a big 300mm lense and 400 ASA film, I could not get more than the 2nd largest aperture at 1/1000.
And don't try it without an autofocus/autoexposure camera. My Olympus OM-1 just didn't cut it.
A good pair of binoculars for every passenger is essential. Better yet would be a gyro-stabilised pair (they're available for military, not sure if they have made in to the civilian market) as it's impossible to use when the vehicle is in motion otherwise.
Jun 24, 2004, 1:43 pm
#9
FlyerTalk Evangelist
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 14,352
Enjoyable and detailed report!
Leaving the lodge at 7, or even at 6, is not an early start. Forget about breakfast and make sure you are at the top of the descent road at 6. Being the first vehicle down gives you a head start on the crowds, and peace and quiet for the first couple of hours. By the time you see a column of vehicles heading down, you are already well into the crater, happy in the knowledge that you have the first sightings all to yourself.
I recommend :
a) having lunch at the Lerai Forest Site, and
b) having lunch either early or late.
This allows you to eat in peace and quiet. Your driver/guide may need a bit of persuading, as the drivers like to use the lunch break to go off to one side and socialize. Bit difficult if you are the only vehicle!
Yellow-billed and black kites. I've seen them take food out of the mouth of a girl, leaving her minus a sandwich, but with a nasty gash instead. In the Lerai Forest, beware of vervet monkeys. They are very cheeky, I have witnessed them chasing a little old lady in an attempt to steal her lunch box.
If you are up to it, stay until the crowds have left. You will again have the whole place almost to yourself for a few hours.
johan
Originally Posted by terenz
Waking up for breakfast opening at 0630 (a pretty big spread with eggs cooked to order), we left the lodge at 0700 by which time lots of safari trucks were waiting for their rides.
The second day was a similar affair except we skipped breakfast (expecting it to be packed when the driver has arranged for an 0600 breakfast but did not communicate that to us) for an early start.
Though we had an early start, it wasn't long before there were lots of vehicles (record is over 100 a day). Crowding is one of the biggest drawbacks of this park and in the Serengeti.
There's only 2 picnic spots where visitors can officially leave their vehicles. The main one is by a big pond (stocked with hippos) that you'll see just about every vehicle in the caldera stopped there for lunch.
a) having lunch at the Lerai Forest Site, and
b) having lunch either early or late.
This allows you to eat in peace and quiet. Your driver/guide may need a bit of persuading, as the drivers like to use the lunch break to go off to one side and socialize. Bit difficult if you are the only vehicle!
Some predatory bird species has apparently become adapt at taking visitors' meals.
At the end of a long day, we made for the ascent road before too many got there.
johan
Jun 24, 2004, 2:00 pm
#10
FlyerTalk Evangelist
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 14,352
Originally Posted by terenz
That's what i was looking for. Doesn't sound like an inviting place to stay!
By the way, Lake Manyara National Park, which is often skipped by visitors hastening to get to Ngorongoro and the Serengeti, is definitely worth a visit. Although comparatively small, I would recommend spending at least a full day there.
Originally Posted by terenz
That must have been some time ago? Moderately-old books make no mention on camping in the caldera. The only campsite is near the main entrance.
johan
Jun 24, 2004, 2:14 pm
#11
FlyerTalk Evangelist
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 14,352
Originally Posted by terenz
Most vehicles (all generally Toyota LandCruisers and Land Rovers) are 4WD and are good but there are differences. Some vehicles come with pop-up roof tops while others have pop-off tops.
A few East African lodges have recently imported game viewing vehicles from South Africa.
Another major difference is the use of experienced trackers in southern Africa. The ranger and tracker (perched on a seat over the front bumper)work like a team, which greatly enhances the game viewing experience.
johan
Jun 24, 2004, 2:25 pm
#12
FlyerTalk Evangelist
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 1999
Programs: FB Silver going for Gold
Posts: 21,858
Enter the Serengeti
BTW, if you do go to Olduvai, I recommend paying to travel through the Maasai lands. less traffic, less dust, and you might see the less-seen animals.
The gated entrance to the Serengeti NP is quite a way from where you cross from the Ngorongoro conservation area. We did not see one animal on the treeless/bushless plain until we started climbing in elevation towards the kopjes ("rock outcrop" in Afrikaans) and the Naabi park gate. A little ecosystem revolved around this outcrop with acacia trees and hence giraffes (we saw 7 here). The popularity of the park sparked posters. A parks poster told the tale of a Cheetah female with 7 cubs who were paniced by too many safari vehicles. She abandoned 2 who stood little chance of survival against hyenas. Drivers were asked to refrain from broadcasting cheetah-with-young sightings over the radio.
Leaving the kopjes (and photographing a few colourful lizards), we asked Fabian to stop for lunch by the simba kopjes where lions sightings are said to be guaranteed. No such luck. Just gazelles, some hartebeest and not even a rock hyrax (that we could see). The Serena packs a simple but hearty lunch - lots of meat, sandwiches, fruits, vegetable oil-less Cadbury's chocolate and cake.
It was this rare occasion that Fabian made conversation with us. We learned that he was from Dar es Salaam and had studied wildlife, possibly for a job with the wildlife service, and assumed he must have moved to being a guide to be part of the elite in Arusha. Pity he never shared his knowledge with us as we got the feeling he knew a lot more than he communicated.
Rejoining the road, we came across some settlers in a broken-down-but-being-fixed Land Rover who alerted us to the presence of a male lion just 2-300 yards away. He was a brave man to be out fixing a vehicle with a lion nearby.
Sightings picked up with more animals mostly in the form of zebras and the occasional male wildebeest who had been left behind and the odd gazelle herds. Getting to a river ford (Seronera river?), we came across a column of zebras who had come to a dead stop. What was the cause?
Pair of mating lions under the tree (of which I photographed the act though at a poor angle). Seems lions mate very frequently, but only between long intervals and lots of rest, and the act only lasts some 15 seconds at most.
Other sightings included a cheetah in a tree though we saw more than a tail and leg hanging from a limb, and a comical play between a red-beaked oxpecker determined to peck a giraffe's face who was equally determined to shake him off. We also saw a safari truck belonging to the Grumeti camp. Since they had travelled 100km to get here, we figured it was a sign that game viewing can't all that great there.
Continuing along the main road, we passed the Seronera airstrip with what came to be common sightings of zebras grazing on the runway (also saw that at the Ngorongoro airstrip). It was the turn off to the road towards Grumeti, and the Seronera Serena that our hearts lifted. Wildebeest! Herds and herds of wildebeest all along the road! If we had missed the main migration, at least here was the tail end!
Alas, there wasn't much light left so we headed to the lodge with the usual warm welcome. We asked and got a top floor room in one of the African-style huts. The huts, some 22 in number, are thatched and blend in quite nicely. There is one room on top and 2 on the bottom.
We also got a hut very close to the restaurant, lounge and pool which was nice. The high-numbered huts are located a little bit farther away and are far enough to warrant escorts if requested. A pair of buffalo, probably seeking protection from lions, frequently grazed just yards away from room 67!
The only fault I can find with the room is lack of ventilation. The huts soak up quite a bit of heat since all are west facing. There are 3 small screened windows but these are not big enough to cool down the room. The sliding door to the patio didn't have a screen and the by-request mosquito nets weren't very good. The by-request fan was also worn out (seems to be a common problem at African hotels).
Wildlife seemed to like it here. One early evening, I followed and photographed a pair of Diks Diks (very small antelopes) repeatedly, with a flash. I saw what appeared to be a big mongoose (not the cmmon yellow banded ones) one evening at dinner, and saw baboons walking just pass our hut. The huts had all been enclosed with wire mesh, presumably to stop the numerous sparrow weavers making off with the thatch. Various birds used the pool (very cold!) for a bird bath.
Food at the Serengeti Serena was among the best. Food was all buffet except for soup. The food buffet is around a BBQ grill where 2 chefs grill meats (all delicious) as well as make stir frys. Desserts were great as usual as were the cheeses (tasty and not as salty as what the Hilton lodge in kenya serves up). The Serenas seem to specialise in bread-based puddings. The menu seems to be similar among nearby locations and some menus at Ngorongoro and Lake Manyara appeared here too.
Complimentary parkling wine was always available at breakfast at all locations.
One amusing observation is people wanting to dine al fresco for whatever reason. Diners always want to get verendah seating for even in equatorial Africa and down at the 4,800' level, a wicked cold wind picks up at night. We saw various parties asking to move inside, after asking for an verendah table, and rightly being made by the staff to finish their meals outside.
The sole entertainment here wa a guitarist promising african music. However, there is only so many times you can listen to the Hakuna Matata song.
The gated entrance to the Serengeti NP is quite a way from where you cross from the Ngorongoro conservation area. We did not see one animal on the treeless/bushless plain until we started climbing in elevation towards the kopjes ("rock outcrop" in Afrikaans) and the Naabi park gate. A little ecosystem revolved around this outcrop with acacia trees and hence giraffes (we saw 7 here). The popularity of the park sparked posters. A parks poster told the tale of a Cheetah female with 7 cubs who were paniced by too many safari vehicles. She abandoned 2 who stood little chance of survival against hyenas. Drivers were asked to refrain from broadcasting cheetah-with-young sightings over the radio.
Leaving the kopjes (and photographing a few colourful lizards), we asked Fabian to stop for lunch by the simba kopjes where lions sightings are said to be guaranteed. No such luck. Just gazelles, some hartebeest and not even a rock hyrax (that we could see). The Serena packs a simple but hearty lunch - lots of meat, sandwiches, fruits, vegetable oil-less Cadbury's chocolate and cake.
It was this rare occasion that Fabian made conversation with us. We learned that he was from Dar es Salaam and had studied wildlife, possibly for a job with the wildlife service, and assumed he must have moved to being a guide to be part of the elite in Arusha. Pity he never shared his knowledge with us as we got the feeling he knew a lot more than he communicated.
Rejoining the road, we came across some settlers in a broken-down-but-being-fixed Land Rover who alerted us to the presence of a male lion just 2-300 yards away. He was a brave man to be out fixing a vehicle with a lion nearby.
Sightings picked up with more animals mostly in the form of zebras and the occasional male wildebeest who had been left behind and the odd gazelle herds. Getting to a river ford (Seronera river?), we came across a column of zebras who had come to a dead stop. What was the cause?
Pair of mating lions under the tree (of which I photographed the act though at a poor angle). Seems lions mate very frequently, but only between long intervals and lots of rest, and the act only lasts some 15 seconds at most.
Other sightings included a cheetah in a tree though we saw more than a tail and leg hanging from a limb, and a comical play between a red-beaked oxpecker determined to peck a giraffe's face who was equally determined to shake him off. We also saw a safari truck belonging to the Grumeti camp. Since they had travelled 100km to get here, we figured it was a sign that game viewing can't all that great there.
Continuing along the main road, we passed the Seronera airstrip with what came to be common sightings of zebras grazing on the runway (also saw that at the Ngorongoro airstrip). It was the turn off to the road towards Grumeti, and the Seronera Serena that our hearts lifted. Wildebeest! Herds and herds of wildebeest all along the road! If we had missed the main migration, at least here was the tail end!
Alas, there wasn't much light left so we headed to the lodge with the usual warm welcome. We asked and got a top floor room in one of the African-style huts. The huts, some 22 in number, are thatched and blend in quite nicely. There is one room on top and 2 on the bottom.
We also got a hut very close to the restaurant, lounge and pool which was nice. The high-numbered huts are located a little bit farther away and are far enough to warrant escorts if requested. A pair of buffalo, probably seeking protection from lions, frequently grazed just yards away from room 67!
The only fault I can find with the room is lack of ventilation. The huts soak up quite a bit of heat since all are west facing. There are 3 small screened windows but these are not big enough to cool down the room. The sliding door to the patio didn't have a screen and the by-request mosquito nets weren't very good. The by-request fan was also worn out (seems to be a common problem at African hotels).
Wildlife seemed to like it here. One early evening, I followed and photographed a pair of Diks Diks (very small antelopes) repeatedly, with a flash. I saw what appeared to be a big mongoose (not the cmmon yellow banded ones) one evening at dinner, and saw baboons walking just pass our hut. The huts had all been enclosed with wire mesh, presumably to stop the numerous sparrow weavers making off with the thatch. Various birds used the pool (very cold!) for a bird bath.
Food at the Serengeti Serena was among the best. Food was all buffet except for soup. The food buffet is around a BBQ grill where 2 chefs grill meats (all delicious) as well as make stir frys. Desserts were great as usual as were the cheeses (tasty and not as salty as what the Hilton lodge in kenya serves up). The Serenas seem to specialise in bread-based puddings. The menu seems to be similar among nearby locations and some menus at Ngorongoro and Lake Manyara appeared here too.
Complimentary parkling wine was always available at breakfast at all locations.
One amusing observation is people wanting to dine al fresco for whatever reason. Diners always want to get verendah seating for even in equatorial Africa and down at the 4,800' level, a wicked cold wind picks up at night. We saw various parties asking to move inside, after asking for an verendah table, and rightly being made by the staff to finish their meals outside.
The sole entertainment here wa a guitarist promising african music. However, there is only so many times you can listen to the Hakuna Matata song.
Last edited by terenz; Jun 24, 2004 at 2:51 pm
Jun 24, 2004, 2:46 pm
#13
FlyerTalk Evangelist
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 1999
Programs: FB Silver going for Gold
Posts: 21,858
Originally Posted by johan rebel
A few East African lodges have recently imported game viewing vehicles from South Africa.
Jun 24, 2004, 3:09 pm
#14
FlyerTalk Evangelist
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 1999
Programs: FB Silver going for Gold
Posts: 21,858
The migration
After a hearty early breakfast, we headed off westward to find the migration. It wasn't too soon before we ran into one of many herds and saw wildebesst heading in all directions with herds running into each other and causing migrational jams. Unless one is in the air or at a good vantage point, it is hard to get a photograph or video that captures the impact of this spectacle; the last large mammal gathering on the planet. I can't convey in words here either. Recent estimates have placed numbers between 1.2 and 1.6 million. Die Oesterreicher and I imagined what the bison herds must have been like only 100-150 years ago.
Other species seen included topis, buffalo, impalas (we're back in bushland), a sole lioness, olive baboons, elephants, giraffes, a couple of vulture species (ripping apart wildebeest that had not been there only a couple of hours earlier), and numerous warthogs as well as small herds of zebras among the large wildebeest herds.
After lunch and cooling dips in the pool, we went back along another road to visit another hippo pool and watched them and 2 Nile crocodiles up close. On our return, we ran straight into a large wildebeest migration along the road we had come (Fabian said he could hear them but it's easy to hide large herds in the bushland). For the better part of half an hour, we sat there all alone watching this large column run pass us. I would say that thousands passed all around us with many more to come when we left (other vehicles had shown up).
The second day revealed more of the same. Roads here are limited and who knows where the major herd concentrations were. What we saw was spectacular enough. Only seeing the migration on the plains would have been more of a sight. A balloon safari is offered out of Seronera but the flight area did not cover any of the migrational area at that time. The USD400 per person fare was a bit stiff to swallow too.
Other species seen included topis, buffalo, impalas (we're back in bushland), a sole lioness, olive baboons, elephants, giraffes, a couple of vulture species (ripping apart wildebeest that had not been there only a couple of hours earlier), and numerous warthogs as well as small herds of zebras among the large wildebeest herds.
After lunch and cooling dips in the pool, we went back along another road to visit another hippo pool and watched them and 2 Nile crocodiles up close. On our return, we ran straight into a large wildebeest migration along the road we had come (Fabian said he could hear them but it's easy to hide large herds in the bushland). For the better part of half an hour, we sat there all alone watching this large column run pass us. I would say that thousands passed all around us with many more to come when we left (other vehicles had shown up).
The second day revealed more of the same. Roads here are limited and who knows where the major herd concentrations were. What we saw was spectacular enough. Only seeing the migration on the plains would have been more of a sight. A balloon safari is offered out of Seronera but the flight area did not cover any of the migrational area at that time. The USD400 per person fare was a bit stiff to swallow too.
Jun 24, 2004, 3:29 pm
#15
FlyerTalk Evangelist
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 1999
Programs: FB Silver going for Gold
Posts: 21,858
Tse tse flies and Leaving the Serengeti.....
Tse Tse flies are a problem with the migration. The good news is that you won't get sleeping sickness with a single bite. The bad news, they're everywhere and they don't care about permethrin-treated clothes and don't seem to be deterred by 28% DEET! The nasty things have this 5mm or so long probiscus that they'll stick into you, without anaesthetic. Speaking from experience, I'd recommend medium weight semi-canvass long sleeves and pant legs, cotton gloves and insect nets.
We saw several excursioners we were 1) totally unprotected from the sun (judging by their nice lobster colour) and wearing short sleeves, tanks/shoudleress tops and shorts. How they can stand the relentless tse tse fliy attacks......
We also ran across people who appeared to have been suffering from safari fatigue. They just sat in their vehicles reading and ignoring the wildlife among them, or actually deigned to enjoy the amenities and comforts of the lodge! We were still keen despite 3 1/2 days at Taita Hills and 5 days of watching in Tanzania. We came across one U.S. couple, a grandmother and her grandson. She apparently was taking her grandson for a college graduation trip and he was bored after a few days (did I say the Serena lodges have no electronic entertainment?)
On the last morning, we went for one more game drive before heading to Seronera for the flight back to Arusha. Fabian decided to try a new road and after driving a while, we stopped, backed up, and showed us the track of a lion dragging its prey. Looking around, he saw a dead wildebeest hidden in the bush (a few safari vehicles had passed us and they'd missed this) and then behind it, a very pregnant lioness. An ideal view. Later on, we came across a leopard crossing the road and got a great in-motion view of this rarely-seen (by day) creature. A plains opened before us that was stocked with Zebras, and a herd of safari vehicles. Seems this is where the safari balloon had landed and an intimate breakfast for some 26 passengers was being prepared.
Back to the Seronera river, we saw more hippos, and then a pride and an individual lioness close up, as well as 2 cheetahs lying in the shade of an already-hot morning. These animals have learned to ignore the attention of vehicles, up to a dozen or more at a time, maneuvering around them.
Sadly, we had to leave for our flight to ARK and then ZNZ.
We saw several excursioners we were 1) totally unprotected from the sun (judging by their nice lobster colour) and wearing short sleeves, tanks/shoudleress tops and shorts. How they can stand the relentless tse tse fliy attacks......
We also ran across people who appeared to have been suffering from safari fatigue. They just sat in their vehicles reading and ignoring the wildlife among them, or actually deigned to enjoy the amenities and comforts of the lodge! We were still keen despite 3 1/2 days at Taita Hills and 5 days of watching in Tanzania. We came across one U.S. couple, a grandmother and her grandson. She apparently was taking her grandson for a college graduation trip and he was bored after a few days (did I say the Serena lodges have no electronic entertainment?)
On the last morning, we went for one more game drive before heading to Seronera for the flight back to Arusha. Fabian decided to try a new road and after driving a while, we stopped, backed up, and showed us the track of a lion dragging its prey. Looking around, he saw a dead wildebeest hidden in the bush (a few safari vehicles had passed us and they'd missed this) and then behind it, a very pregnant lioness. An ideal view. Later on, we came across a leopard crossing the road and got a great in-motion view of this rarely-seen (by day) creature. A plains opened before us that was stocked with Zebras, and a herd of safari vehicles. Seems this is where the safari balloon had landed and an intimate breakfast for some 26 passengers was being prepared.
Back to the Seronera river, we saw more hippos, and then a pride and an individual lioness close up, as well as 2 cheetahs lying in the shade of an already-hot morning. These animals have learned to ignore the attention of vehicles, up to a dozen or more at a time, maneuvering around them.
Sadly, we had to leave for our flight to ARK and then ZNZ.