Together Once More




Allow me to preface that over the past year I have written a couple of trip reports that revolve around hotels in Bali, you can find them here, and here. Between the continued opening and easing travel restrictions of Indonesia (and hence, Bali) and the island still relatively less crowded, it became a good time for my sister to visit from abroad for the first reunion in nearly two years. This was a good opportunity to again, review several hotels I have been meaning to check out. I have elected to make a new trip report thread to make it easier to read these new reviews as opposed to having to scroll a lot. This report will focus on some of the smaller/independent hotels around Bali, some of them being those that aren't very well covered here in on FT. I also intend to separately share a thread of reviews focusing on some of the larger hotels in the near future.
Among the hotels I will be reviewing, I am especially excited to review the recently reopened COMO Shambhala Estate (aka Begawan Giri), which does not seem to get as much attention here on FT compared to Aman. I am also very much looking forward to reviewing Plataran Canggu, a hotel from the Plataran group of hotels, a self-proclaimed Indonesian eco-conscious "luxury" resort brand I have been meaning to check out.
The following is the full list of hotels I shall be reviewing on this thread (subject to change):
The Royal Pita Maha (Deluxe Villa)
Maya Ubud (Heavenly Pool Villa)
Pita Maha Resort and Spa (Garden Villa)
COMO Shambhala Estate (Two Bedroom Retreat Pool Villa)
Aman Villas Nusa Dua
The Bal (Single Pavillion)
Plataran Canggu (One Bedroom Garden Villa)
Tandjung Sari (Two Storey Bungalow)*
Kayumanis Private Estate Jimbaran*
I hope that you will enjoy reading some of these reviews and hope that it could perhaps help make decisions on any future travels you might be planning to the island.
Best regards,
Clubeurope
Last edited by clubeurope; May 13, 2022 at 9:49 pm




Royal Pita Maha
Beautiful setting with so much potential (37 Photos)
Royal Pita Maha
The Royal Pita Maha is one of the three hotels owned by the Ubud Royal Family (which probably explains the Royal prefix). Along with the Pita Maha Resort and the original Hotel Tjampuhan, the three make up the Tjampuhan Hotels; the latter of the three had served as the royal guesthouse from 1928 until the 1970s when it opened to paying guests (at one point, the place hosted the artist, Walter Spies).
The Royal Pita Maha was opened in 1995, and has 75 Pool Villas that view the beautiful Sayan Valley. It separately features the Royal Kirana Spa that is designed by Bill Bensley. To those wondering about the hotels name, Pita Maha was the name of the 1940s art movement that led Ubud into becoming Balis cultural capital. The movement started at what's now Tjampuhan Hotel, led by the then-Prince Tjokorda, who along with Walter Spies and Rudolf Bonnet, reimagined the artistic styles of Balinese artists. As such, the historical-artistic influence is still very much visible at Royal Pita Maha, where virtually every space within the hotel is covered with numerous paintings and carvings done by local artists, some under the direction by the King of Ubud himself.

Deluxe Pool Villa
Location
The Royal Pita Maha is located in Kedewatan Village which borders Sayan (where hotels like Mandapa, Amandari, Four Seasons, and Samaya are located). The hotel itself is around 10 minutes north of Central Ubud, so it is not an ideal base to exploreon foot. There are several local food establishments called warungs nearby, some of them rather popular with visitors and locals alike. However, the street that leads to the hotel from the main road is quite lengthy, so the hotel isnt the most pedestrian-friendly out there (neither are many resorts in Bali).

Impressively large statues by resort entrance
Check In

The Royal Pita Maha Lobby
The Royal Pita Maha Lobby
We arrived at The Royal Pita Maha shortly before 14.00, earlier than their official check-in time at 14.00. After presenting our IDs, we were invited to the beautiful, valley-viewing Dewata Lounge for a welcome drink of warm herbal tea. This was also where much of the confusion ensued. We were told that they would be checking if the room is ready since there was 20 minutes until check-in time, but we were also handed our keys along with a breakfast card (something I havent seen in a long time!). Interestingly no one really updated us on that front and pretty much left us waiting we decided to head to downtown Ubud for a bit. We requested the staff to just take our luggage in whenever the room becomes ready and was assured that it will be done.Unfortunately, our bags were still there out in the open when we returned, to which the reception staff reasoned that they wished to keep the room sterile until we entered it. This made a rather disappointing start forthe stay.

Welcome Herbal Tea

View from Dewata Lounge
Room

The Royal Pita Maha Villas

Villa Entrance
We booked an entry-level Deluxe Pool Villa and received one as such. We were brought to our villa by a friendly staff member who briefly explained the features of the room. I personally thought the room to bevery spacious and opened to an absolutely stunning and unobstructed view of the valley. The view probably also distracted me from the look of the villa itself, which frankly had seen better days.

Deluxe Pool Villa

???????Deluxe Pool Villa

???????Deluxe Pool Villa
Like many of the hotels public areas, the room hasnt quite aged very well, and there were several pieces of furniture that looked very outdated. Some parts of the room also looked unkempt: some parts of the thatch ceiling appeared to be rotting, many of the seat cushions look stained, and the mosquito net that draped over the bed wasnt very clean. I also didnt like how dark the room is at night, given the lack of proper lighting leaving some corners of the room to be dim.

???????Deluxe Pool Villa Living Room

???????Deluxe Pool Villa Garden
However, theres surely a novelty about the place, a sort of rustic charm that eventually made the place feel quite nice. The room and the hotels design can be said to be anything but sleek or modern, but that was also what made the place feel very Balinese. There were little touches like Hibiscus flowers placed everywhere, and a couple of small informative pamphlets explaining local fruits and wildlife.

???????Welcome Fruit Bowl (well, an attempt at one)

Interesting Details

Interesting Details
I very much enjoyed the oversized indoor terrazzo bathtub, despite the toiletries being only decent at best.

???????Deluxe Pool Villa Bathroom

???????Deluxe Pool Villa Bathroom

???????Deluxe Pool Villa Bathroom

???????Deluxe Pool Villa Toilet

???????Deluxe Pool Villa Shower
What really impressed me was the view and the organically shaped infinity plunge pool that viewed the valley. Despite that, the pool itself felt to be a bit rough and the sunbed also has seen better days.

???????Deluxe Pool Villa Pool

???????Deluxe Pool Villa Pool View
Service
Apart from the hiccup at check-in, I found the staff mostly to be agreeable and well-intentioned. Interestingly, most of them looked young, which was later explained when we were told that many staff members were trainees from a local hospitality school.
I for one was quite impressed (and also confused) by the attention to detail. For instance, our room is promptly serviced (without request) when we headed to breakfast early in the morning;we were surprised to come back to find that it has been cleaned. The same was done when we headed out for dinner one evening, where we came back to see that our room has been turndown. Yet, interestingly, housekeeping didnt proactively offer to turndown the room when we are in the room (which made me initially think that the hotel didnt offer turndownservice). Despite these lapses,I thought that everyone was very friendly despite any shortcomings or misunderstandings.
Dining

View from Dewata Lounge restaurant

View from Dewata Lounge restaurant
We didnt dine at the hotel apart from breakfast, which was included in our rate. Breakfast is an la carte affair and is served at the Dewata Lounge, which is the sole operating restaurant at the moment. I ordered an Eggs Benedict with spinach in place of beef ham, since their Eggs Florentine is confusingly served with a cream sauce instead of Hollandaise. It was oddly served with a side of fries, which isnt precisely my idea of breakfast food but okay. The dish itself wasnt the best Ive had, but I wouldnt mind having it again given a lack of other choices.

Eggs Benedict with spinach in place of ham (aka Eggs Florentine)
The had a choice of two pastriescroissants and danishes. We tried the croissant, which was nothing to write home about, but I did appreciate that it was warm and flaky. We also had a fruit platter that was served in a small cocktail glass and tried a glass of fresh pineapple juice that sadly had sugar added to it.

Pastries and drinks
I did also sample an omelette, which came with some unusual sides. It was just edible.

Omelette
Amenities
As a result of the low occupancy from the pandemic, many areas of the hotel appeared to be unkempt.

Apart from the pool in our villa, there are a couple of pools in the resort, including an interesting-looking Sacred Spring Pool. Sadly, only the infinity pool under the lobby was open since the spring pool had been recently victim to a landslide and thus had to be repaired.

Royal Pita Maha Infinity Pool

Royal Pita Maha Infinity Pool
Guests are momentarily requested to stay out of the lower section of the hotel that is being repaired, however, after asking the reception staff, I was authorised to head down to view the river.

Elevatorheading down

Yoga Patio with Waterfall in the background (that caused the landslide)

Closed Lagoon Pool

Ayung River
The hotel has no gym.

Advert inside elevator (Floating lunch? hmmmm)
Overall
Overall, I think that the Royal Pita Maha is an interesting hotel thats perhaps worth checking out, particularly for cultural travellers heading to Ubud for the first time. The look of the hotel is undoubtedly Balinese, and had a bit of charm despite looking painfully outdated. I honestly really struggled with whether or not to give a recommendation for the hotel based on the room we stayed in, but I reckon that one will have a much better experience booking in one of the newer-looking Royal Pool Villas.

Sunset from room
I personally can perhaps see myself returning at some point in the future, just to check out the Sacred Spring Pool once it is repaired; however apart from that, unless there are major renovations conducted, I, unfortunately, see no compelling reason to return here.




















Location We were picked up by an Aman car by a friendly associate, who drove us all the way to the Nusa Dua peninsula. There were cold towels and water in the car. Unlike most other hotels in the area, Aman Villas isn't located within the Nusa Dua gated community, but just outside it, along with several other hotels like the St Regis, the enormous and impersonal Mulia Resort, the stalled Shangri-La project, as well as the neighbouring Revivō Wellness Resort (which in itself was developed when a group of villa owners decided to make their own hotel brand). There isn't anything in the direct vicinity of Aman Villas, but there is a car service that can shuttle guests anywhere within Nusa Dua. Check In Once arrived, we were greeted by the very warm and friendly general manager, Michel B. He brought us around on a quick tour as one of our butlers came and brought us a refreshing welcome drink, whilst our luggage was quietly brought to our room in the background.Soon after, we were brought to our room by our butler, where the check-in formalities were done, consisting of signing a few documents. This had to be one of the smoothest arrival experiences I've had on the island.In-room fruit platter Villa I thought that the fact that the ~3,500 sqm entire villa is blocked to a single booking party—regardless of how many rooms are booked—is simply extraordinary. We were assigned Villa 5, which boasts a phenomenal 50m pool, the longest of the six villas at the compound. Swimming in that pool with such an unparalleled level of privacy had to be one of the most wonderful swimming I've done on the island. Exceptional pool and the main pavilion in the backgroundThe grounds were beautiful and certainly evoked a Kerry Hill touch, and I really liked the look of the whole place. I especially loved the cold library, where I could sit for hours ... although sadly there weren't many books that piqued my interest. The large, circular table at the dining pavilion wasn't very effective for a party of two, but I reckon it would be nice to use when staying as a larger group. Main pavilion interiorLibraryDining PavilionAman Villas at Nusa DuaThe marble and stone-clad rooms look identical to that at the bygone Amanusa and were beautiful albeit a bit dark at some hours. Like at many Amans, there was a fruit platter in the room that was topped up whenever the room is serviced (which is a lot of times). There were also banana chips and peanuts provided as snacks, along with an endless amount of water. BedroomBedroomBedroomThe bathroom features double sinks. There are both indoor and outdoor showers, but what I really liked was the sunken bathtub. As expected at Aman, none of the bath amenities were branded. They were of high quality and had a wonderful tuberose scent. SinksClosetBathtubI did feel that the sheer size of the place did make it a bit wasteful for just two people since there were a lot of spaces that we didn't use. As such, I would personally prefer to return with a couple members of friends or family for next time. Dining The food at Aman Villas is exceptional and is definitely on par with Kila, if not better (although I did really miss Kila's spectacular Moroccan Donuts). I felt that the quality of the food is excellent and very well prepared. There was a rather comprehensive menu, although they were inherently a bit more like guidelines. That is to say that it is possible to order off-menu, but that required some advance notice given the nature of the property. When dining in, we mostly stuck to the menu. The breakfast was very well done, and something I looked forward to having each day. The pastries were fragrant, soft, and flaky on the outside. The fruit plate was similarly excellent, and I loved that they had mangoes and mangosteens.PastriesFruit plateI sampled an almond porridge, which was perhaps my least favourite dish on offer, but still nice for what it is.Almond porridgeThe mains I sampled were all exceptional and were of very high quality. Over the course of the stay, I had their Banana Pancakes, the Eggs Royale, and the Gypsy Eggs. Of the three, I found the Gypsy Eggs to be the most wonderful, and I can still remember its wonderful flavours as I type this. Banana PancakesEggs RoyaleGypsy EggsOutside breakfast, I especially loved the Mahi-mahi fish which was superbly done by the chef. It was so good that I had it twice. Mahi MahiI also sampled the Pork Ribs on the menu, which was nice but a bit salty for my liking.Pork Ribs Beach Like Amanusa, neither Aman Villa nor Revivō is adjacent to a beach. As such, Aman Villas rents a small plot on the public Mengiat Beach, which sits a bit north of the old Amanusa Beach Club, in between the Merusaka and Ayodhya resorts. The beach got rather crowded at certain times given its public access and the fact that our stay went over a bank holiday weekend, although the small Aman area is expectedly closed to the public. Of course, this wasn't an ideal arrangement, but I understand the difficulty to secure a nice plot by the sea given that virtually all plots in the area are occupied. There is a shower stalls at the beach club, which served its purposes.Aman Beach ClubMengiat Beach over the holidaysBeach Club with the temple behindThe beach attendant is an absolutely delight, and he was probably the star during our stay. He attended to each of our requests and was very quick to respond to everything. I had a minor injury on my foot whilst walking back from the edge of the beach and he showed up within minutes of contact. Beach Club Entrance Service The service we had at Aman Villas at Nusa Dua was amongst the best we've had anywhere on the island, perhaps even the best (along with the old Tandjung Sari in Sanur). Each villa is assigned two butlers and a chef, in addition to various others working different roles. Everyone at our villa still had a strong sense of the old Aman Ethos I had feared to be long gone. Overall I found Aman Villas at Nusa Dua to be an absolutely wonderful place to stay. The whole place made it feel like one is staying at a private house (which it technically is) and reminded me a lot of the magic of Aman. The Aman ethos was very strong with this team, and that single-handedly made this stay exceptional. Add to the fact that the place was desolate of any arrogant influencers and their photographers (if there were, I wouldn't have known), which made the stay so very much more exceptional.













Im guessing that many hotels chose to do outdoor bathrooms because that was how traditional Balinese bathrooms were set up in the past (or so I heard), so theres probably some romanticising attached to the decision.
Speaking of forgetting bathroom walls, theres actually a new Banyan Tree called Buahan, which not only forgoes bathroom walls, but the entire resort is open-air and free of walls! Im sure theyre trying to capitalise on the novelty, but it sounds like a preposterous offering to me.


Kinda of interested on the bad aspects of Komaneka Resorts as they have been on our radar for awhile. The Banyan Tree Buahan seems to be really nice. The rates are about $120 USD per night including breakfast and dinner. That is just outstanding for a new deluxe property. I would be concerned about sleeping with all those bugs, though!



Thanks for such detailed reviews.



