MrKey, I didn't get any email from you so hence no reply from me.

I stayed at the Grand Hotel d'Angkor. Got a decent rate on the AMEX Plat. Make sure you get everything in writing. The front desk tried to charge more for two people even though both names were on the reservation form. Plus all stays include breakfast and dinner (up to a certain fixed amount). I thought we were getting a deal since AMEX Plat rates include breakfast but it's for everyone. The Grand Hotel is nice with a great pool and gym. (Get a Cabana room with steps to the pool rather than in the main bldg). By the way, I am very picky about food (after food poisoning in China) so I quizzed the Restaurant Manager - a German guy - about the food ther. He assured me that everything is flown in and is fresh & safe. Friends, that is where my $200/night is going and that's just fine with me. No skeeters at the pool either.

It was nice to go out in the morning, see a few temples, take the car back to the hotel, lunch & swim, then head back out to Angkor Wat and Bayon. Nothing is far away there. We went to five sites on this day and still finished up at 4. Beware, I got heat exhaustion from not drinking enough water - payback for not wanting to have to use the "facilities" in the temple areas...

We used the hotel concierge to hire a car/driver & English speaking guide. It was $25 for the car/driver for the day plus $25 for the English speaking guide plus $10 to head out to Banteay Sray (1/2 hour away). Totally worth every $. The only downside is they made a "stop" at some roadside housing area and we were swarmed by kids selling stuff "One Dollar Mister". While interesting to see how some Khmer live around Siem Reap it was apparent the drivers like to stop here. No, the kids don't make any of these items - they are simply the salespeople. We also hired a driver to meet up at the airport for $10 or some small amount. I just don't like to deal with taxi drivers in countries where I'm not sure about their driving requirements & car maintenance. (Just me - I hate the cabs in D.C. too).

We also checked out the Sofitel which was rather large and impersonal. Didn't make me want to stay there at all. Like a Florida resort property. Ick.

Now, if you have $$ to burn - and Oh I wish I did after seeing this place - there is an Aman property across from the Grand Hotel. Apparently it used to be the King's residence in Siem Reap (he now lives in Phnom Penh). Has about 10 rooms all funky, yet relaxing - (no televisions). Plus every guest(s) gets his/her own driver (one per room) with a pedalcab (or whatever the term is) to take you anywhere you want to go. Where is my prince charming with the Centurion card? At least head over there at night for a drink at the bar to check it out.

I loved Cambodia and really want to go back to Siem Reap. I need to spend a few more days there with my camera...

As Ozstamps said, there is a ridiculous building boom going on. There are a zillion Asian tourists there. Japanese, Chinese, Thai. Barely any Americans. Some Europeans. When my boss went to Angkor in 1986 about 80,000 people visited a year (at the most). Now it's around 1 million. Seriously, I had a claustrophobia/panic attack/heat exhaustion episode at Angkor Wat - not pretty. Which is why I have exactly 3 photos from there -- I couldn't take the pressure. Going to Bayon or Banteay Sray or anything further out would be well advised. Another reason to hire car/driver to ferret out the lesser known sites. Stay on the paths to avoid land mines!

One other thought about all the new hotels opening up. Khmers are coming from all over Cambodia to work here to fill the vast amount of jobs opening up. I'd say almost all would be inexperienced in the hotel/restaurant industry. If you have any kind of hotel issues - say, you actually care about good service - you might want to choose an established place - one that's been there more than 4 years and can afford good/experienced staff.

You do not need passport photos for a one day pass. Only the multi-day passes. (Lots of confusion on that issue at the hotel).

No drug stores that I saw (or 7/11 type places) so make sure to bring anything you might need - despite being totally bogged down by baggage, it was nice to know I had bandaids & Claritin & anti itch spray. We visited the Angkor Hospital for Children (after meeting the Ex Dir) and despite their excellent mission they have no money and are only able to provide the most basic care for the kids. I sent a check when I got back. By the way, this is where you go if you buy the SOS Insurance and have an emergency. (If you need a cat scan you're screwed.) I'll be sending them some emergency burn care kits too since they have NOTHING -- not kidding -- for any burn situation.

But, wow, the people are so nice -- yes I know I met mostly tourist industry people -- but it might also be the Theravedic (spelling wrong I'm sure) Buddhism practiced by 95% of the Khmers.

OK, apologies for this being soooo long and embedded in the Vietnam report. Hope it's helpful.

Suzy1K thanks for your long report. It will be most helpful. I will stay at the Grand and am leaving from DC next week.