I-flybynight

I Flew from Singapore to Colombo, Sri Lanka on Singapore air. I asked the flight attendant if they stayed over in Colombo and she replied no…they consider Sri Lanka a red zone and do not allow their staff to overnight.

This explained the terrible hours for both Thai airways and Singapore airlines. They arrive at 00:20 AM and depart at 1:20 AM.

Needless to say the flight, crew, and food was fantastic on SIN airways.

I still have mixed feelings about Sri Lanka. Would I go back? I am not sure.

The Island is small but it is very hard to get around, it’s an all day trip to go a couple hundred miles.

On the other hand the backwater boat trips are something else, relaxing and gorgeous, with lots to see and experience.

Lots of beaches, warm water but dangerous undertows in most northern areas.

Food is fantastic especially if you like seafood. Most meals about $2 up to $6 for large jumbo prawns.

Shopping is also great as a lot of major companies manufacture goods in Sri Lanka. I don’t know how but these goods find themselves out on the shelves for ˝ price.

The infrastructure is better here than in Vietnam, and Cambodia, and the housing is much better. I would assume they have a higher standard of living here.

On the dangerous side and several incidents happened over the 5 days I was there.

A woman at our hotel was robbed of her gold necklace; luckily, for her the cops caught him and beat the hell out of him. He was bleeding all over the place. They beat him with chains on the street.

In the south of the Island, a US citizen was asked by a group of young children where he was from. (this was an apparent set up) When he replied the US a large Muslim man came out and berated him, yelling and screaming profanities at him. It pays to say you’re Canadian I guess. I think the Brits and Aussies would have the same problems.

Lastly, and the worst part of the experience, a young woman was raped by 5 men beside the hotel and got away with it.

I talked to a single woman (white British) in her 50’s.She made a trip over to Sri Lanka 2 weeks before her husband and daughter joined her.

She couldn’t leave the room. Apparently, the males chase anything; even the hotel employees harassed her for sex. Not just trying to pick her up but actually grouping her. This woman is a worldly type and spend 6 months a year in Goa on her own, so its not like she hasn’t been around the block and knows what’s going on. She advises that no woman should walk the streets on her own and even 2 woman together must be vigilant when out at night.

She said the food was cheaper and better (I find better hard to believe, I really enjoyed all the food) the Hotel rooms, transportation etc, the weather all are better in Goa. I can’t comment, as I haven’t been there yet. Maybe tomorrow.

As I said, I can’t make up my mind if I will go back, something’s were worthwhile, and others especially for women might be more difficult. One thing is for certain, I am pleased that I went, it was an enjoyable experience overall.

Hope this sheds some light on Sri Lanka. Everyone’s experiences are different, different situations from people to places to civil unrest, choice of accommodations, places visited etc. the above was my experience this time, maybe next time it will be better or worst.

Regards,
Robert
I-flybynight

pallensf

I wish San Francisco had large prawns for $6.oo...

Sri Lanka sounds so exotic....

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Patrick A. Inouye, LMT
volunteer trip reports moderator

SanDiego1K

This was a very useful report, as Sri Lanka has been on my list of places to go for years. Robert, thank you for a very honest (and disappointing) look at the risks for women traveling in Sri Lanka.

Bretteee

Thanks for your Sri Lanka/Ceylon report. Think they are still fighting the Tamils there. Or maybe things are calmer now.

rjh

Just to provide another perspective, I was in Sri Lanka in October, 2003 and travelled from Colombo to Kandy to Ella to Galle and back to Colombo in 10 days or so, both solo and sometimes with another male American. We travelled by taxi, public bus, hired car, and train.

There is no fighting currently between Sinhalese and Tamil people and hasn't been for quite a while. I would be ok taking my family there, based on current conditions.

As reported above, food is indeed great (and inexpensive) and travel is slow. I didn't find travel terribly difficult, just slow, averaging 30 miles/hour no matter what transport you use. Travel can be quite cheap. I think the 3 hours train ride from Galle to Colombo, 2nd class, was US $.60.

I found no problems in saying I was an American, though I didn't (and don't) advertise it. People were extremely friendly and not antagonistic. (I came across no other Americans except for my friend, though there were many Europeans and Australians.)

I bought some items from a Muslim operated shop. The shopkeepers were friendly and more interested in making a sale than having a political discussion.

I didn't spend much time in Colombo, but In Kandy, Ella, and Galle I did see foreign women travelling alone. I can't speak to their treatment.

There are several scams in the larger cities. The most popular is that someone comes up to you on the street claiming to be a worker at your hotel. Just come to the temple for the festival. Oh, by the way, how about buying... It gets humorous after a while.

We ate Sri Lankan food wherever possible, often with our drivers. Never got sick. European style food is widely available, but why bother?

There's quite a bit of discussion on the Lonely Planet Thorn Tree about Sri Lanka. (I don't doubt anyone else's experiences and perspective.)
Rich

I-flybynight

I agree with everything you say. Everyone has good or bad or both experiences no matter where they travel.

jpatokal

I-flybynight, do you live in Singapore? If yes, mosy over to Jurong Point in scenic Boon Lay and check out the "Big Prawn Noodle" stall in the 3rd floor Kopitiam. The biggest prawns I have ever seen -- even when sliced in half, these monsters make most lobsters look small and barely fit in the bowl -- will set you back 5 Sing dollars, and if you head there on a weekday at lunch time they'll throw in a free popiah too. Shiok!

777Brit

My wife and I just returned from a 14 day trip to Sri Lanka, during which we visited Habarana, Kandy, Nuwara Eliya, Hikkaduwa, Bentota and Colombo. We flew in and out on CX in Business. (Arrives CMB 11.45pm, departs CMB 2.50am.) CX has no problems with their crews staying in CMB. In fact, CX crews stay at the Colombo Hilton and get a nice 2-night layover. The crew on our HKG-BKK-CMB service even asked me about taking an excursion to kandy whilst they were there, as they were also buddhists and wanted to visit the Temple of the Tooth.

We stayed at the following hotels -

Tamarind Tree, Katunayake
The Lodge, Habarana
The Citadel, Kandy
The Grand Hotel, Nuwara Eliya
Hotel Coral Gardens, Hikkaduwa
Bentota Beach Hotel, Bentota
Ceylon Continental, Colombo

Of the above hotels, I wouldn't recommend the Coral Gardens in Hikkaduwa. It was built in the 70's and at the time it opened, it was the best hotel in Sri Lanka. The problem is, it hasn't been refurbished since the 70's and suffers from poor aircon, cockroaches, gloomy public areas and a restaurant straight out of the 'Love Boat'. All other hotels were of a very high standard, particularly the 5-star Bentota Beach, Habarana Lodge and the newly refurbished 5-star Ceylon Continental.

Nevertheless, the service received in ALL hotels was exemplary. My wife is American and she had no problems at all, anywhere. For travel, we had a private car with driver who took care of us for the entire trip. I didn't really need it, (I'm half Sri Lankan) but it was very convenient for my wife, as I wanted to show her as much of Sri Lanka as possible in quite a short trip.

The only crime we heard of whilst there was of a catholic priest being dragged into the street up in Jaffna and being beaten, by buddhist priests. Sounded a bit bizarre to me, but I met some English ministers that had been in Jaffna and unfortunately witnessed the event.

There were quite a few single women travelling in SL, and we took time to chat with a few and see what they thought. Most were okay with the security situation and didn't feel harrassed, but mentioned that single women should take the same precautions as in most countries by not walking alone at night in dark streets and along empty beaches. Pretty common sense really.

Food is excellent, the curries are wonderful and the seafood is amazing. You can also find Pizza Hut, KFC and a total of 3 McDonalds. If anyone has any other questions, please feel free to e-mail me.

violist

I-fly, good to hear what became of you after you
left the crab Do - sounds like an interesting
and worthwhile trip, although with plenty of
disquieting aspects. Makes one want to think
twice or thrice about choosing places to see.

gmailflyer

I haven't spent extended time in Sri Lanka, but have transited there a few times and stayed in CMB a few days. I am of South Asian origin, so never felt out of place. Experienced wonderful hospitality. Airport staff, taxi drivers, travel agents and hotel staff were all great. Hilton Colombo treated me well. Taj Airport Garden hotel was OK for a few hours overnight stay close to the airport.

I'm definitely looking forward to bringing my whole family (spouse and young kids) sometime soon and travel around in Sri Lanka. Local currency is still a great deal for westerners, particularly Europeans. RTW fares are generally attractive and availability in J is very good - what else can a FTer ask? Economy is booked solid on many flts to India though other destinatons such as CX CMB-BKK or CMB-SIN is not that busy.

CMB is a transit point for Indian pax going to the middle east and south east asia on low fares offered by UL (Sri Lankar Air 49% or so owned by EK) and EK. time permitting I plan on posting a trip report on my most recent CMB-MAA and BKK-CMB flts.

pi4er

UL is a GOOD airline, (cash rich) EK owned and with well trained Caucasian pilots. Pitty the terorists destroy parked planes from time to time at the supposingly super gurded airport and UL's "trust" value sinks, too.

I found Sri Lanka's nature destroyed. Seasside is mildly said horribly dead and overbuilt.
The historic sites were gorgeous, but way too far apart to make a trip worthy.
The nice mountain leftovers were millitary zones and ditto for tourists (we were all hearded to overcrowded unworthy Budist peak instead of nature trails).
Hotels are overpriced.
Finding decent food awas a problem everywhere (We avoided Colombo to se the rest). The hotel food was fine, but the restaurants we tried had horrible cooks. Our driver took us home (sweet hospitality) to prove that Sri Lankan cuisine is great - and his wife's seafoood dinner was.
Security was not exactly a problem (for thin olive mother with child), but big-built blond blue-eyed women are a fetish, hence even hotel employees try their luck. A friend of mine did have problem with "two boys" as she tought first. They really wanted to show her where the good beach was (there was no such thing in Sri Lanka - hotel pools are in wide use).

India is way worhtier, if you ask me.

snorkmaster

Does Airport Garden have a short stay rate of some sort?

We'll be flying at at 0235 (or thereabouts) in a few months and I'm wondering if they can give us a discounted rate on a room until 0000 or 0030.

T