Leaving on UA IAD-CDG
We left Wednesday afternoon and got through security reasonably quick.

We each had a rolling carry-on so we did not check bags. That proved to work
well.

I had bought a few Briggs & Riley bags on sale at $135 each, which is
a great bargain as these are guaranteed for life (even against airline
damage) and very well made.

We sat in "Economy Plus" and had plenty of
legroom. The plane was 1/3 full in economy and almost empty in business.

They served champagne, then a meal, and lots of water although they quickly
ran out of bottled water and started serving plane water.

Each of the seats has an invididual screen although as usual the movies
weren't much good. I watched a bit of Simone but didn't like it so I read
most of the time.

When we arrived, we walked through the CDG airport with its space age ramps and waited 1/2 hour for the car service that was
supposed to be there waiting for us.

There were hundreds of French troops waiting inside the airport. My guess is they were on the way to the Ivory Coast but I never knew for sure.

We rode into Paris with two American
students who were each studying for a semester and staying at hostel near
our hotel. The cost of the car service was as much as a taxi so we would
have been as well off or better with the taxi as it turned out.

We arrived at the Comfort Inn Mouffetard. The rooms are extremely small but
the facilities are adequate. The soap they give you is the size of a postage
stamp! Our stay included breakfast which was excellent croissants
(indescribably light), excellent bread (you can't get bread like that here,
anywhere), hardboiled eggs, jam, ham, and great strong coffee.

Rue Mouffetard
Rue Mouffetard is a very old street on the Left Bank in the 5th arrondissement. It can be considered part of the Latin Quarter or not. It is right near the Sorbonne, with the Pantheon around the block from our hotel.

This part of Paris was founded in the 12th century by Abelard, a priest, who
famously fell in love with Heloise. It is a charming area with narrow streets. Notre Dame is right down the street.

I would stay there at that hotel again because it is such a superb location.

Part of Rue Mouffetard is one lane and accepts an occasional car, with the
rest being walking only. It was part of a street that stretched from Paris
to Rome in ancient times. There are some of the same facades and some signs
from the middle ages. It is a marketplace street with excellent cheese
shops, creperies, small restaurants, fish mongers, meats, chocolatiers etc.

I never saw such fresh fish or such perfect produce in my life. And it does
not have a pretentious feel to it.

We parked our stuff and while Robert slept we went to the Musee D'Orsay. It
was a train station that was going to be torn down but was saved.

Some collections from the Louvre were moved here including paintings and sculpture.

Gaughin, Renoir, lots of Bonnard, many other things. There is an incredible huge clock in the great central hall where the trains arrived, and that is dedicated to sculpture. It is very much worth seeing.

I was in a state of collapse so we headed back and rested until dinner time.

I had loaded my new Palm phone with a Zagat's guide, a complete map of Paris
that gives you step-by-step directions, and a complete guide that takes you
to any museum or monument via the Metro, again with step-by-step directions.
I used this the whole time, that night to find a restaurant.

We walked there, Le Petite Prince de Paris. The food was superb. I had duck
rillettes with bacon, and I think I had a steak with a heavenly bearnaise
sauce. For dessert, Robert had a chocolate rice pudding that was far better
than it sounds, while I had a delicately light cake made from roasted
almonds with an incredible sauce. Naomi ordered a veal chop with carmelized
onions for her entree.

The Louvre in two hours
Friday we went to the Louvre. We too the Metro there. The Metro has a lot
of steps, few escalators and no elevators.

The windows on the cars open,
which creates a refreshing breeze. We saw a violin player on a Metro car,
and there was a small trio of classical musicians playing for coins in the
station.

At the Louvre we entered under the pyramid, checked our coats, and headed
into the exhibits. Since the Louvre is an endless maze, we looked around a
bit and headed towards the Mona Lisa. It is located past endless hallways of
old Italian and Renaissance art.

Normally there is a huge line but there was
no line due to the time of year. We also looked at some other Da Vincis,
lots of other stuff, and a few Vermeers including a famous one of a lady
sewing.

After about 2 hours we left the Louvre and headed into the attached mall,
which is a very expensive high class kind of place.

Naomi and Allie bought a few inexpensive things while Robert and I headed upstairs to the food court for some beverages. The food court is Paris: excellent purveyors of food you would never see at most restaurants let alone a mall food stand.

We headed over to the Ecole Militaire Metro stop and walked to the Eiffel Tower. On the way we got roped into a fabulous lunch at a little boulangerie. Naomi had fish, Robert and I had steak, and I forget what Allie
had. I also had a marvelous house made chicken liver pate.

At the Eiffel Tower, one pillar was open for walking and one for going up the elevator. This was crowded although it only took 15 minutes to get to the elevator. The weather was extremely cold, with a biting wind that made it seem like you had nothing on.

The elevator stopped at the first level,
then the second, and we had to get off and wait in another line to get to the top. The cold below was nothing like the cold up here. It was as chilling and frigid as I have ever been in. Finally we got to go into the second elevator to the top, which is fully enclosed thankfully.

The view is magnificent, nothing like it in all of Paris. It feels like you are in a
highrise building so it is not scarey at all.

We walked up a flight of stairs to the highest point you can go, which is a
platform that is open to the air but covered with steel mesh. It was too windy to go to the windward side, so we stuck to the leeward side for a few minutes. Eiffel had his office here. He must have been in good shape as I doubt the elevator was there at the time (it was first installed in 1899),
so he would have had to walk.

There is a lifesize model of him and Thomas
Edison talking, in what was his office.

We descended without incident and there, Allie and Robert bought a few things from the extremely aggressive hawkers.

For dinner we walked to the Reminet. It is a fine little restaurant with more of a nouvelle feel to the food. The desserts were incredible -- I had the best chocolate thing I have ever had anywhere, and everyone else's
desserts were similarly incredible.

We walked back to the hotel and went around the Pantheon. This resembles the
US Capitol building in many ways, neo classical and built in the 18th
century to commemorate one of Napoleon's victories (although Napoleon fell
from power and never finished it, it was finished later on and made into a
church, then seculuarized, then a church again, etc.)

Blustery Saturday
On Saturday the weather turned quite ugly. It was not only very cold, but also snowing a cold, miserable snow. We got out of the hotel and walked to Notre Dame.

A marvelous pipe organ concert was underway and we just sat and listened. It was magnificent. Finally we left and walked around and then couldn't take it anymore so we ducked into a pizza restaurant. We enjoyed wonderful pizza, hot tea, big salads, and even dessert. Then it had stopped snowing and we went to the Musee D'Cluny. This is a medieval building that is remarkable, and there are old Roman baths (cold, called the frigidarium, and hot), along with some heads from statues that were taken several hundred years ago from
Notre Dame, and later found in the basement of a bank.

The best thing about the Cluny was a set of tapestries of the "Lady and the
Unicorn", huge elegant and very interesting tapestries hundreds of years old, illustrating the five senses. There was also extremely ancient stained glass that you could see close up, really remarkable, and many excellent wooden religious carvings.

While exploring the museum, we heard chanting and discovered a concert going on in the museum.

For dinner, we ate at Le Volant. It was rather far away, so we had to take
several Metros which turned into a small misadventure.

We waited in the station, and they kept announcing that the Metro was going to be late. Finally, we decided to go up to the street, lose the value of our tickets, and take a taxi.

Not so easy. The taxis were all busy. It was by now 9:00 and we had a 9:00 reservation, and it was like rush hour with every taxi occupied. After a lot of frustration, and after trying to call the restaurant (unsuccessfully), we used more tickets to try the Metro again. Again it was still broken. Finally the train came and we arried at 10:00, an hour late.

The restaurant is a small room with closely packed long tables. You sit down next to other people. Everyone in Paris sits down to eat with a pack of cigarettes and a lighter, so it was quite smokey. The proprietoress was very unfriendly at first, but finally relented and found seats for us. The meal
was quite good, although Naomi got the wrong order on the appetizers and things became very frosty after that.

On Sunday, we walked around Rue Mouffetard some more, and saw the most incredible accordian player. He was obviously classically trained and brilliant. He played a toccatta from Bach, one of the Four Seasons, and was so good it sounded like a whole orchestra. Everyone was listening and
dropping Euros into his bucket. I bought a CD from him.

Allie wanted a crepe nutella so we bought one and it tasted good.

We headed to the Arc D Triumph. You have to walk up 240 steps on a spiral staircase. Admission was free, as it always is on the first sunday of every month. The view there was fantastic, and we could observe all the
architectural details and things like the mosaic designs in surface of the
streets.

We walked around the Champs D'Elysees and bought a few things. We had lunch at a little chocolatier and boulangerie. We had excellent crepes, and wonderful tuna sandwiches. Then we walked to the Grand and Petite Palais, which were both closed. We walked around the Jardine de Touleries, and Allie went on the carousel. Robert and Allie got cotton candy. It was a wonderful,
subtle cloud color rather than the typical pink you see here.

We walked around the Place Vendome and took a taxi back. The driver tried to take
advantage by charging a higher rate but we caught on and paid what we were
supposed to.

We went back to the Petite Prince for dinner and called it an early evening.

We had a taxi pick us up the next morning made it to Charles De Gaulle. I
used some upgrade coupons and we upgraded to business class.

The flight was quite comfortable and we got in late afternoon.

The weather was and had been nicer in Washington than in Paris. But there is no city like Paris. I would not hesitate to visit again in the winter.

[This message has been edited by richard (edited 02-10-2003).]

Hilarious _ I was there for the exact same days. Different flights (LGA-DTW-CDG) and different itinerary (right bank), but same idea. Love those $300< fares.

And the Metro wasn't broken that day, it was "un mouvement social" which is the French euphemism for a job action or strike (which would be "une greve"). Trains were running about 15-20 minutes apart, and packed to the gills.

After waiting 15 minutes that afternoon, my sister and I walked **** near the length of the Rue de Rivoli to meet a friend of mine in the Marais. Naturally, we were walking right into the wind and snow. We lucked out that evening, and managed to packed ourselves into a train. I couldn't reach a hand grip, but sardined in as I was, there was no way I was falling down. Everyone was in good spirits, laughing about it and telling everyone at the stops there was no more room. Of course, people still got on. Definitely memorable.

Also, were you the one who knocked over that huge pane of glass near the NW KLM check-in on Monday afternoon? Sounded like a cannon going off. I was just beginning to lament that I was leaving France without hearing my favorite ridiculous French exclamation. Then that thing toppled, and someone yelled out: "Oh la vache!" Perfect.

OK, I won't appropriate this thread anymore. Great report, I liked the detail of the Rue Mouffetard. Thanks.

TD

edit for typo


[This message has been edited by Tyler Durden (edited 02-10-2003).]

Richard,

Great report! I myself will be traveling to Paris in a week and a half and was very interested in your descriptions.
Where did you find the step by step map of Paris and Zagat restaurant map to download to your Palm? Also, how much would you say is a customary tip for a waiter in a restaurant or for a cabby?

Thank you and Happy Travels!

I got the Palm software from TomTom, through Palmgear.com. TomTom has a variety of European maps and they work very well, or at least the Paris one did. Extremely accurate.

That's where I got iParis, and the Zagat guide, which is also available from Handango or directly from the zagat.com site.

Re the TomTom software, you don't really need to ever look at the map even on the screen. You just select the street you want and it pops up with all intersecting streets. You select the closest one or just the "entire street" and it asks if you want to make this your starting or ending point.

Then you repeat for another point, and it gives you step by step, turn by turn directions either walking or driving from one place to the other.

What I like is that if you get lost, you enter a new starting point and it recalculates for you. We were never really lost the whole time we were in Paris.

There is a piece of software for the palm call "Metro". It has subway and bus routings for Paris as well as subway, LRT routings for a large number of other cities including Singapore, Bangkok and Portland. It is downloadable and free.

Just plug in the beginning and ending stations and it tells you how many stops, journey duration, and transfer points. So much easier than pondering over the map on the wall. IMHO a great piece of software.

Service is included in the prices (by law, i think), so there's no need to tip. However, rounding up to the nearest Euro or leaving an extra one- or two-Euro coin if you were happy with the service is not unheard of, from what I gather. It feels weird at first, but you get used to it quickly.

Cabbies: I'd say round it off, possibly with an extra Euro if he was particularly helpful.

edit for typo



[This message has been edited by Tyler Durden (edited 02-12-2003).]

Yes, you are right, it will be difficult to get used to it at first... Its just so odd NOT to leave the tip... Does it matter if its a nice restaurant or not? Also, is there a flat taxi fare from CDG to Paris downtown?

The whole tip thing is easier when you don't have to leave one.

In a restaurant, they bring a little credit card dealie to your table and swipe your card then, and give you a receipt. It's wirelessly linked and the result is you never lose sight of your credit card.

Another interesting thing I discovered is that the French were very happy to talk to us, even though our French is not all that good at this point.

I had been to Paris a number of years ago, during the summer, and they often pretended like they couldn't understand us and would be rude. This was not the case...perhaps because Paris in winter is not loaded with tourists?

This is the most amazing thing the first time it happens...I love that little thing they carry up to the table...why in the world American restaurants can't adopt this practice is beyond me. And I to, agree, service-compri is so much more civil and easy.

I have been to Paris in all seasons and find them uniformly charming and willing to help...and my very poor French which gets us in the door and out the door often quickly becomes English (only after inquiring if this is acceptable to the shop-owner or restauranteur).

When a non-frequent traveler returns from Paris complaining of "rude" service, I always wonder...did you approach them as though they would BE rude? I am a firm believer that you get from people what you expect them to be. So many of these (present company excluded!) rude Parisian stories leave out any info on what the American did to incite the Franc response!

Thank you (I think) for making me long to return to Paris soon...now I must click over to AA.com to check on MCI-CDG fares!

In a "nice" restaurant ("nice" being very subjective, of course!), people often leave something above the service compris: sometimes between �1.50 - �3.00 in a nice bistro or brasserie, �10 or more in a high-end establishment.

No tip is expected in caf�s though many people do, as mentioned above, round up to the next euro or leave a few pieces of change.

There is no flat rate from CDG to city center - I paid �35 this week at 1:30 PM in the afternoon and the traffic was quite light. Meter rates (and, thus, fares) vary according to the time of day (lowest from 7AM to 7PM Mon-Sat, highest from 7PM-7AM Mon-Sat, Sundays and holidays) and whether or not you are within Paris city limits.

There is a small charge for a fourth passenger (I think �2.60 if they even accept a fourth passenger) as well as �0.90 for each piece of luggage (not handbags or briefcases). If you want to pay by credit card, make sure the taxi accepts them IN ADVANCE (not all do).

Hi

Next weekend 2/21 I will be flying a MR to do Platinum Challenge ORD-DFW-CDG then returning 2/23 CDG-DFW-ORD. Since I have 24 hrs in Paris and will be staying at Airport Hotel to minimize cost, I wonder if you could suggest anything other than visiting the Louvre for the day and should I change money at the airport for my 24hrs? Any suggestion for a moderate priced restaurant that would be easy from the airport?

First, I would like to be going to Paris next weekend...but since I'm working in STL on Saturday, I'll just type out what I would do for 24 hours in the City of Lights.

Yes, get some Euros at CDG...there is a cash machine right by bag claim and you won't regret having some bills for the day.

Are you staying on points/miles? Have you looked into the cost of a 2* hotel in the city? There are lots and given your short stay and the travel time in and back, I would opt for a cheap hotel in the city and an early train ride out to CDG in the morning. This would give you the benefit of a place to leave your luggage until your room is ready or, if you're lucky, your room might be ready and you can grab a refreshing shower before hitting the city (we are 4 out of 5 stays where this has happened coming off of early morning flights...just say NO to the bed...you don't have time for a nap!

OK..yes the Louvre is ab-fab, but my suggestion would be to play tourist for most of the day then hit the Louvre at 3:00 when the entrance fee drops.

http://www.louvre.fr/anglais/billets/billet_f.htm

My day in Paris...

A cafe' au lait and croissant at Cafe Bonaparte (a wonderful cafe just around the corner from Deux Magot overlooking St. Germain-des-Pres). Great people watching and much cheaper than the Deux.

Walk down Rue du Bac, take in the wonderful little antique and homeware shops. End up at Bon Marche' and hit the grocery department (the most fabulous grocery store I have ever been in) and pick up some goodies for lunch (sausage, cheese, olives, wine,bread).

http://www.lagrandeepicerie.fr/fr/ht...il/accueil.asp

Walk (or Metro) back toward the Seine and find the little park that is down at the point of Cite' (cross over Pont Neuf to the island and look for the stairs that lead down)...stake out a bench and have lunch watching the boats on the Seine.

Continue over Pont Neuf to the Right Bank and head over to Place du Opera. Just walk into the lobby area of the Opera Garnier and take in the glitter and glamor of the Grand Staircase (you can catch glimses of it without paying for the tour).

I love to walk through the big department stores behind the opera (Galeries Lafayette/Printemps) then walk up Rue Tronchet towards La Madeleine. There you will find Fauchon and you might want to pick up a treat or 2 for the folks back home.

Continue around La Madeleine (actually go into the church and see the amazing alter sculpture) and continue on down Rue Royale towards Place de la Concorde. You are now ready to enter the Tuileries and enjoy a stroll down towards the Louvre where you enter, make the rounds of what you want to see (I must always take in "The Raft of the Medusa" which literally brings tears to my eyes everytime I sit and gaze at it.) You will need to move quickly, but I was able to take in everything I wanted to see prior to closing time.

Now, it is nearly time for dinner and you have decisions to make. Come out of the Louvre, walk along the Seine towards Cite', cross back over Pont Neuf to the island, and walk down to take in Notre Dame. Continue past the church, cross the pedestrian bridge over to the Island of St. Louis and there is a wonderful Alsatian bistro right there...wonderful food and you can sit outside or in (I've done both).

Or, head over to the wonderful Left Bank restaurant Thoumieux...

http://www.thoumieux.fr/resto/f_resto.html

Now, it is evening. After dinner, I would walk over to the Eiffel Tower then cross over and walk up Ave. George V and stop in the Hotel George V for a drink (just walk through the lobby to see all the flower petals if nothing else) then continue up to the Champs-Elysees, turn right and look for Laduree, http://www.laduree.fr/ which is a pastry/cafe/slice of heaven place. Order the hot chocolate and a pastry then just sit back and let the cocoa do its thing.

Well, now it is up to you, back to the hotel, explore a little more, that is up to you. But this has been my 2 cents for what to do with 24 hours in Paris.

If you can't tell, I love Paris! Have a wonderful time.



[This message has been edited by mwp2paris (edited 02-16-2003).]

mwp2paris----a great post. My wife and I go to Paris twice a year and your comments were accurate, descriptive and very enjoyable. Paris is a great city and not to be missed.

mwp2paris...your description of 24 hrs in paris sounds wonderful. I only wish you were going as a guide. I will try to have as good a time as you seem to have. As of now, I have booked one of the airport hotels because I did not want to hassle with getting to the airport on Sunday morning. I can change it but I don't know any specific hotels or what section of the city would be good to stay in. Any suggestions? There were many available hotel rooms on hotels.com that were very reasonable: < or = $125 per night.Thanks again.

------------------