SaraJH

Fabulous report and photos, I can't wait for the rest of the instalments, I'm off to Oz and NZ in 2 weeks. First time visit

matthandy

Melbourne, the Great Ocean Road and the Grampians National Park

So, the bus, not an experience that I'd like to repeat. I got on at Mystery Bay, in the evening, I think that it was around 10pm at this point. Nightmare situation, as it looks like most people are sprawled over two seats, asleep, great. I managed to find a seat near the back and tried to settle in as best I could.

The coach itself could have been a lot worse to be honest. It was clean, modern, warm and the seats reclined. It was about the same as a flight in economy but without the food or the IFE. I just tried to get some sleep but with frequent stops it was quite difficult.

After 10 hours of not really sleeping we arrived in Melbourne, at the coach station at Southern Cross station. I grabbed my suitcase and then headed up to the station concourse to buy a ticket to Eltham, where my friends live. The train took about 45 minutes or so and I met my friends at the station where it was a short drive back to their house. It was great seeing them again but I was desperate for a shower, to get freshened up.

We spent the rest of the day not doing a huge amount to be honest, it was just nice to catch up. We went for lunch, went for a walk etc. The countryside around Eltham is beautiful and it felt a little bit like home. I find that Melbourne is a lot greener than Sydney and tends to feel a lot more European both in the city itself and out in the bush.

The following day, as my friend's husband was at work, I decided to head into Melbourne myself. I'd been to Melbourne many times both as a tourist and on business. It was the city that I spent a week in during my back packing trip in 2005 and I wanted to visit a few attractions that I enjoyed but hadn't been to for a while.

I like Melbourne, I like the river and the feel of the city but for me it really is missing the wow factor that Sydney has. There's an endless argument between the two cities regarding which is 'best' but for me, Sydney wins every time.

I started off by visiting the highest observation deck in the Southern hemisphere at the Eureka building. I'm not a huge fan of observation decks because there's not a lot to do once you get up there to be honest. I felt that I should visit though, so I did, with my camera in tow.

Eureka! It's a long way down

Overlooking the Yarra

After my Eureka experience, which involved dashing into the lift before a group of about 50 school children, I made my way over the river and up towards Flinders Street station and Federation Square. The station is a bit odd. It has a grand façade but not much else. If you actually go inside it's just rows of platforms, quite disappointing. Federation Square is ok, but, I prefer to walk along the river and under the bridges. There's a couple of pubs and cafes along the way too which are slightly hidden from the hustle and bustle of the city centre above them.

I made my way up to the old prison (they call this the gaol, which is the old English word). Some fascinating history at this place as it was where Ned Kelly was hanged in 1880. Since I last visited almost 10 years ago a new attraction has opened. As a visitor, you have the opportunity to be 'arrested' at the old police station. There were warnings that the experience isn't suitable for young children and I'd agree but it wasn't quite as scary as I had imagined. I won't spoil it for you but it was a fun experience overall and I can recommend it.

Love locks on the footbridge


Looking back at the Eureka building


The lanes


Flinders Street Station


The police cells


Release!


Close up inside one of the cells


Enclosed exercise yard

After my 'arresting' experience I made my way back to the gaol to tour around the inside. I believe that audio guides were available but I chose not to use one.

As you'd expect, given that this is a prison, and an old one at that, the place is very dark and depressing. There's no doubt at all that being sent here would have been a real punishment.

As a visitor, you can pretty much explore the entire inside, including the gallows, although some of the cells are closed.

The place wasn't too busy but as there was a school group getting a guided tour at the same time it got a bit crowded in certain areas. I took a good look around and then decided that I'd had enough darkness and headed out to get some fresh air.

Inside the Gaol


The gallows


The upper level

I spent the rest of the afternoon just wandering around before heading back to my friend's place in Eltham. We went out for dinner before retiring to bed ready for my adventure the next morning.

In order to do the Great Ocean Road, I'd planned to hire a car from the centre of Melbourne city and drive the length of the GOR, past all of the main attractions before staying the night in Warrnambool. This was a pretty decent drive of around 4 hours although I'd be stopping along the way.

As it turned out, another Flyertalker and friend Stez happened to be working around the area so I was able to meet up with him in a remote/secret location to see what he does for a living. We then headed back towards Warrnambool for some dinner together.

So, I said my goodbyes in the morning (not knowing when I would see my friends again, as it turns out, it will be well over a year until I see them next) and jumped on the train again into the city centre to collect my car from Avis. I had thought about booking something sporty but in the end bottled out and just went for a bog standard Hyundai i20. It wasn't the greatest car in the world but it was clean, spacious and easy to drive and it would more than do for the journey that I had planned.

With the help of Google maps I made my way out of the city and initially towards Geelong before heading down towards the start of the GOR. Purely by chance, I happened to stop at a little place called Airey's Inlet, which was spectacular and it made for a great start to the trip.

Now, if you, like me happened to grow up in the 80's and 90's you may recognise the lighthouse. I had no idea before stopping at Airey's Inlet but then something about that lighthouse got me and then I realised that it was used in the Australian children's TV series 'Round the Twist'. A rather nice surprise I must say. It is possible to tour the lighthouse but all of the tours were booked up for most of the rest of the day and I had to crack on.

The beach at Airey's inlet


Rock formation


Walking up to the lighthouse


Spit Point lighthouse as used in Round the Twist


Panorama of the view, spectacular

After this fantastic rest stop I carried on and made my way to the official entrance to the GOR before carrying on towards Lorne and Apollo Bay where I stopped to get some lunch. As a road, the GOR is pretty tight in some places and is definitely a demanding drive. I quite enjoyed it, but then I like driving (I would have enjoyed it more in a Porcshe Boxster!) but I can see why some people choose to skip a good chunk of the coastal section and basically head straight towards the Twelve Apostles.

After lunch I carried on and arrived at arguably, the most visited attraction on the GOR, the Twelve Apostles. These are rock formations located away from the cliff edge and provide an amazing site over the ocean. Now, it should be noted that there are only 8 remaining, due to the erosion, they are still, however, a breath taking site and well worth the drive out from Melbourne.

Entrance the Great Ocean Road


Some of the Apostles


The walkway and viewing platform


Looking down the line


Looking up the coast from the other direction

I visited in the early afternoon, which, from a photographic point of view, doesn't offer the best light since the sun is behind the Apostles, a morning visit is therefore recommended.

I should also say that the Twelve Apostles are far from the only attraction on the GOR, there are many other less visited but equally amazing rock formations located a short drive away. When I visited, these tended to be less busy that the Apostles, which was definitely a blessing as huge crowds are really my thing.

Probably the most spectacular of the other formations is 'London Bridge' but is an archway left in the sea after a collapse. Eventually, it will of course, collapse itself.

Lock Ard Gorge

The Razorback


Archway


London Bridge


Rough seas


London Bridge


My room at the Best Western

After covering almost every attraction on the GOR I headed into the bush to meet up with [B]Stez]. I can't tell you what he does for living, only to say that he was working in a remote area which is involved driving a good distance in land on a number of part paved roads, not quite what the hire car was made for!

After showing me around the site we headed to the town of Warrnambool where I had booked a room at the Best Western Olde Martime hotel for a couple of nights. Stez was staying at another hotel so we met up for dinner at local 'hotel' before retiring.

The Best Western was pretty good. The room that I was given was large, with a mezzanine level for the master suite and twin beds on the lower level. The hotel had a friendly atmosphere and the staff were great.

The following morning I was up early to grab some breakfast before jumping in the car to head to the Grampians National Park was about 100km inland (about an hour and a half) away from the hotel. There had been a spate of damaging fires in the park and much of it was actually closed to the public. Everything was clearly marked out though and the map that I was given at the information centre outlined which areas were still accessible.

The park was huge and I hadn’t planned to go too deep into it. I started off by visiting one of the waterfalls, Silverband Falls which meant parking up and taking a short walk. The weather wasn't great but at least it didn't rain. I was pretty much alone for most of the walk to the falls and it was very peaceful. I almost didn't notice the bush wallaby directly in front of me. Luckily, it wasn't spooked and I was able to catch a photo. Had the route been busy with walkers I don't that I'd have seen as much wildlife as I did.

Driving to the Grampians – one of the part paved roads


Parking up to take a photo


Silverband Falls


A bush wallaby

After walking back to the car I carried on and made my way towards Reeds Lookout. On the drive there however there was very clear evidence of the destructive nature of the recent bush fires. It was rather startling. Some areas were completely devastated, whereas, others just looked like the trees had been painted black. I hadn't seen anything like it and it was a stark reminder of the damage that these fires can inflict on the natural environment.

The look-out was rather amazing too. From one direction to the other all that I could see were trees, hundreds of thousands of them.

On my way back out of the park I stopped at Boroka lookout to get an amazing view over the valley and also took one of the short walking trails. I wasn't 100% sure where it was or what it lead to but there were a few rather nice rock pools along the way.

Whilst not quite having the same impact as some of the sights along the Great Ocean Road, I'm pleased that I visited and can thoroughly recommend that you do so also.

Bush fire damage


Blackend trunks


Black and gold


Parked up


The balconies


The balconies


Reed lookout


Reed lookout


Boroka lookout


Rock pool

The drive back was unremarkable and I made it back to the hotel just before dark. This was planned, as I didn't want to be out on the bush roads at dusk due to the risk of kangaroos leaping out into the road in front of me. Not to be laughed at, this is a serious threat which can leave you injured, your car wrecked and stuck in the middle of nowhere.

In the evening I had a nice meal in the hotel and then retired early to bed. In the morning I had quite a lot of time before my flight back from Melbourne in the evening. I had two options, either take the inland road back which was quicker, or repeat some of the GOR before heading inland again. With the option to visit some of the sights along the GOR for a second time (with morning light this time) I took it!

I have to say, that visiting in the morning is much better. I found the Twelve Apostles to be a lot less busy than in the afternoon. This may be because a lot of the day tours from Melbourne don't reach this far along the GOR until the afternoon hours.

Although it was a grey morning, the weather vastly improved as I travelled towards the Twelve Apostles, bathing them in sunlight by the time that I arrived. I took the opportunity to go down to the beach area on the east side of the main headland. Access is via a set of steps known as Gibson Steps. I'd be wary here and watch out for the tides and cliff falls! The steps are quite steep too, so not suitable for everyone.

Lesser visited parts of the GOR


The weather is getting better!


The Twelve Apostles in the morning light


Looking east and down towards the beach


Six Apostles?


Looking east again


The view down to the viewing platform


On the beach, access via Gibson Steps


Ahead is the headland with the viewing platform for the Twelve Apostles

After a decent wander along the beach it was time to head back to Melbourne. At the earliest opportunity I took the inland road and was soon back at the airport. I discovered later (to my address in the UK actually) that I'd picked up a speeding ticket of $100 for doing 106 kph in a 100 zone! In the UK, you'd never get a fine like there is generally an allowance of around 10%. I paid the fine.

After dropping off the car at the airport I checked in using the self service kiosks and then made my way through security and into the expansive Qantas Club lounge. I helped myself to a customary glass of sparkling wine to bid Melbourne farewell and to celebrate a successful trip.

The flight was rather uneventful and an hour or so later I was waiting outside the departures drop off area where I was picked up by my friend who I'd be staying with for a while.

All in all, a very enjoyable trip to Victoria!

Sparkling wine in the Qantas Club


Domestic leg room


Deserted drop off area – waiting to be picked up


Deserted drop off area – waiting to be picked up



Up Next



A truly spectacular four day, three night trip all around Tasmania.

steveman518

Very nice pictures of the Twelve Apostles-the morning light seems to make the photography much better than evening before sunset, when I was there last month

iluvdoco

Great photos!

Not sure if you answered this already, but what kind of camera are you using?

gustavmahler

What an awesome report so far. I'm totally sold on a trip to Australia now!

Moomba

Spoken like a true Sydneysider

I've heard it said Sydney is a place to visit Melbourne is a place to live. Having not lived in Sydney I couldn't confirm or deny.

Great report and photos Matt. I am looking forward to the QF flight home.


I thought you had dropped in a photo from Paris for a moment there.

matthandy

Thanks thetravelingRedhead. Well, some of them were very tame. They might object to you taking them home though!

Thanks Toula. There are so many places to visit, as I'm sure you know. The caravan was fine, but I couldn't live in one!

Thanks yohoho. I decided not to include any photos of the inside of the caravan for privacy reasons, sorry.

Thanks Genius1. It's always nice to something different on Flyertalk! It's a whole other world.....

Thank you TPJ, glad that you are enjoying it so far.

Thanks roadwarrier. I am particularly pleased with the Great Ocean Road photos. Some of those will go on the wall at home.

Enjoy your trip SaraJH! There's so much to see and do.

Thanks you steveman518. Yes, the morning is excellent. I'd imagine that sunrise would be great also.

Thank you iluvdoco. I use a Nikon D800 and a mixture of the 24-70mm f2.8 and 70-200mm f2.8 lenses, plus my iPhone 5s.

You definitely need to plan a trip gustavmahler!

You may well be right, only of course if don't like great beaches, excellent weather, world heritage landmarks etc......

Ha! This afflication has spread the world over I'm sure!

Genius1

More excellent pictures, matthandy ^

I did part of the Great Ocean Road on a day trip from Melbourne - we had a small group bus of about 15 people in total. The commentary from our driver/guide was very good, but it was rather annoying how long people would take to see the sights and walk back to the bus - I thought this limited the number of things we could see during the day. It would've been a lot quicker to hire a car I think, but probably less stressful and more informative to have a guided tour.

jeffers

Amazing pictures.

ladyjaneMN

Great trip report - I am in the process of planning my first trip to Australia and this gets me even more excited.

SYDSiderFlyer

Great pics and report. As a Sydney sider I completely agree that Sydney wins hands down to live, I am very lucky to live in such a great city.

I was the same as but the other way round. I lived in the UK for 11 years and never settled and was so home sick. It was the best move of my life coming home. Hope you've settled back home.

Look forward to the rest of the report.

lmwong1977

Great report and pics. Makes me want to go back again.

I also did a trip to Sydney and Melbourne back Nov 2013, but did the tour van thing for the Great Ocean Road and the penguins. It's great you were able to take your time and see more things than us tour bus folks.

I had a friend who used to do a the caravan thing on long weekends up in the Redding area in NorCal. It was a lot like your mum's that it expands out - just no washer.

Looking forward to the rest of your trip report.

AhogZ

Ha! Now I am pretty sure I HAVE to go there, thank you very much for lovely pictures, and for sharing this adventure with us

montezume

Great photos and TR so far. Almost makes me want to create an account on CaravanTalk

matthandy

Thanks Genius1. Yes, the first time that I visited the GOR I did the same as you which meant getting up at 6am and not getting back to Melbourne until around 8pm. It was a very long day. Hiring a car and staying over is definitely a good option and you can rush to beat the coaches at the next stop...!

Thank you jeffers

Glad that I could be of assistance ladyjaneMN ^

Thanks SYDSiderFlyer. I agree, there's no place like home. I've been back almost a year now but I still wouldn't say I'm fully settled in.

Thanks lmwong1977, most certainly the way to do it. If only I could have skipped the overnight bus ride at the end.

Thanks for your lovely comments AhogZ!

There's a new venture....