Washington to Peru and Machu Picchu on COPA and TACA
Mar 11, 2013, 7:27 pm
#16
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Touring and Dining around Cuzco, Peru
By the time we got to Cuzco and checked into the hotel, we basically had one and a half full days to explore the city. Plan was to get some lunch and explore the sites nearer the hotel and then spend the next day wandering around a bit more. Cuzco is a very walkable city, and we did a good amount each day - but things are slow going due to the altitude. At nearly 12,000 feet above sea level you definitely move a bit slowly the first day, and even the second we were gasping for air many times!
First order of business was lunch! We wandered to the Plaza de Armas and decided on Limo restaurant based on TripAdvisor reviews. It definitely didn't point. First order of business was pisco sours, well, because the review said they had some of the best in town and we had to find out for ourselves. This was followed by some very tasty grilled alpaca and lomo saltado - delicious! We debated coming back here for dinner one night, but there were so many other good looking places we wanted to try that we never made it. That's one thing I'll definitely say for Cuzco, it was filled with amazing restaurants!
Pisco sour at Limo:
Delicious lomo saltado:
Read the rest of this post on my blog at this link!
First order of business was lunch! We wandered to the Plaza de Armas and decided on Limo restaurant based on TripAdvisor reviews. It definitely didn't point. First order of business was pisco sours, well, because the review said they had some of the best in town and we had to find out for ourselves. This was followed by some very tasty grilled alpaca and lomo saltado - delicious! We debated coming back here for dinner one night, but there were so many other good looking places we wanted to try that we never made it. That's one thing I'll definitely say for Cuzco, it was filled with amazing restaurants!
Pisco sour at Limo:
Delicious lomo saltado:
Read the rest of this post on my blog at this link!
Mar 11, 2013, 9:50 pm
#17
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awesome trip report - as always
I just don't get the trend to have see into the bathroom from the bedroom, its fine if you are staying with a partner - but sometimes you do want privacy.
I am quite happy with a bathroom that does shut and have privacy, although I can imagine there would be times when watching someone shower would be mighty fine viewing
I just don't get the trend to have see into the bathroom from the bedroom, its fine if you are staying with a partner - but sometimes you do want privacy.
I am quite happy with a bathroom that does shut and have privacy, although I can imagine there would be times when watching someone shower would be mighty fine viewing
Mar 12, 2013, 5:29 am
#18
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I visited Cusco, the Sacred Valley (Ollantaytambo, Pisac) and Machu Picchu in November last year, and your report esp. the pictures brought back wonderful memories. Also had dinner at Cicciolina^
However, when you mentioned altitude sickness in Cusco, the dull, gnawing headache, dizzinees and breathlessness on climbing even one flight of stairs came rushing back.....
I wish I hadn't waited till the 2nd morning to ask for oxygen from the hotel,...after a minute of oxygen, I felt normal again!!
However, when you mentioned altitude sickness in Cusco, the dull, gnawing headache, dizzinees and breathlessness on climbing even one flight of stairs came rushing back.....
I wish I hadn't waited till the 2nd morning to ask for oxygen from the hotel,...after a minute of oxygen, I felt normal again!!
Mar 12, 2013, 8:03 am
#19
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However, when you mentioned altitude sickness in Cusco, the dull, gnawing headache, dizzinees and breathlessness on climbing even one flight of stairs came rushing back..... I wish I hadn't waited till the 2nd morning to ask for oxygen from the hotel,...after a minute of oxygen, I felt normal again!!
I wish I hadn't waited till the 2nd morning to ask for oxygen from the hotel,...after a minute of oxygen, I felt normal again!!Last edited by Dieuwer; Mar 12, 2013 at 8:10 am
Mar 13, 2013, 7:16 pm
#20
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Cuzco to Aguas Calientes (town of Machu Picchu) on the Vistadome train
We purchased our tickets from Cuzco to Aguas Calientes (the town at the foot of the mountain Machu Picchu sits on) about three weeks in advance on the PeruRail website, which was quite easy and straightforward, although knowing which train you want takes a bit of research. . There were three options:
1) .The "Hiram Bingham" train - a super luxury train that (as far as we could tell) only had the advantage that it served you a gourmet meal on the way. .Price was around $300-350 return.
2) .The "Vistadome" train (which we took) that was said to be comfortable with great viewing. .About $75-100 return. .Reviewed below.
3) .A local commuter train, which if I remember right was like $50 return, but was said to be quite slow (at least an extra hour) and unreliable. .Everything I read in advance said it was well worth paying the small amount extra for the Vistadome.
It wasn't completely clear that we needed to print the tickets or anything, so the day before the train when we arrived in Cuzco we went to the PeruRail office (easy to find on the Plaza de las Armas) to see what the story was.
It was a good thing we went, because we found out not only that we needed a printout, but that heavy rains had washed out part of the track from Cuzco, so the first roughly half of the journey would be replaced by a bus. .The only upside is that the bus would leave from a station in downtown Cuzco, only a 5 minute taxi ride, instead of the normal train station well outside Cuzco maybe a 30 minute taxi ride away. .Small miracles I guess?
The busses seated around 25-30 people, but for some reason when we got on the bus there were only 6 of us total. .On the way back, however, when the train unloaded straight to the busses our bus was full. .Either way, it was a bit over an hour ride and decently comfortable. .There wasn't a ton of legroom, but there was enough that we didn't feel squashed.
One important note, you are only allowed one small carry-on on the train, no more than 5kg in weight. .We never saw anyone checking them, but this is because basically there's nowhere to put any luggage. .Lots of people are on daytrips so it's not a big deal, but if you're planning on an overnight stay (or two nights like we were) this could be a bit inconvenient.
On the way to Aguas Calientes and back the train was almost completely full. .They seem to add cars as needed - on the way there there was only one car, but on the way back there were six or seven. .This ensures most of them are full, if not almost full. .Still, for the barely 90 minute journey it was plenty comfortable. .A few fews from the train on the way to Aguas Calientes:
Read the rest of the post on my blog at this link!
1) .The "Hiram Bingham" train - a super luxury train that (as far as we could tell) only had the advantage that it served you a gourmet meal on the way. .Price was around $300-350 return.
2) .The "Vistadome" train (which we took) that was said to be comfortable with great viewing. .About $75-100 return. .Reviewed below.
3) .A local commuter train, which if I remember right was like $50 return, but was said to be quite slow (at least an extra hour) and unreliable. .Everything I read in advance said it was well worth paying the small amount extra for the Vistadome.
It wasn't completely clear that we needed to print the tickets or anything, so the day before the train when we arrived in Cuzco we went to the PeruRail office (easy to find on the Plaza de las Armas) to see what the story was.
It was a good thing we went, because we found out not only that we needed a printout, but that heavy rains had washed out part of the track from Cuzco, so the first roughly half of the journey would be replaced by a bus. .The only upside is that the bus would leave from a station in downtown Cuzco, only a 5 minute taxi ride, instead of the normal train station well outside Cuzco maybe a 30 minute taxi ride away. .Small miracles I guess?
The busses seated around 25-30 people, but for some reason when we got on the bus there were only 6 of us total. .On the way back, however, when the train unloaded straight to the busses our bus was full. .Either way, it was a bit over an hour ride and decently comfortable. .There wasn't a ton of legroom, but there was enough that we didn't feel squashed.
One important note, you are only allowed one small carry-on on the train, no more than 5kg in weight. .We never saw anyone checking them, but this is because basically there's nowhere to put any luggage. .Lots of people are on daytrips so it's not a big deal, but if you're planning on an overnight stay (or two nights like we were) this could be a bit inconvenient.
On the way to Aguas Calientes and back the train was almost completely full. .They seem to add cars as needed - on the way there there was only one car, but on the way back there were six or seven. .This ensures most of them are full, if not almost full. .Still, for the barely 90 minute journey it was plenty comfortable. .A few fews from the train on the way to Aguas Calientes:
Read the rest of the post on my blog at this link!
Mar 14, 2013, 7:34 pm
#21
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Touring around Aguas Calientes, and the SUMAQ hotel
We were met at the Aguas Calientes railway station by the SUMAQ hotel porter, who put our bags in their cart and then...wheeled them to the hotel. We didn't know there were no cars in town, so everywhere you went was on foot. It was no big deal, since the hotel was only a five minute walk, it was just funny watching them wheel the giant cart of bags to the hotel. Most of the other people on our train were at the same hotel, but were headed straight up to Machu Picchu so didn't walk to the hotel with us. First, a few thoughts from our two days at the hotel, and then a little review of Aguas Calientes itself.
SUMAQ Hotel, Aguas Calientes
Room:
We'd reserved the basic standard room, and it was perfectly fine. .The beds were very comfortable, there were more pillows than I had a clue what to do with (seriously, there were 6 pillows on each bed!) and the temperature was decent. .There was no climate control, so the room tended to be slightly on the warm side, but not enough to every really be a problem. .Bathroom was well-stocked with decent eco-friendly amenities, and considering this was a small town it was a very nice room. .Some pics of the room, with the many-pillowed bed:
Read the rest of the post on my blog at this link.
SUMAQ Hotel, Aguas Calientes
Room:
We'd reserved the basic standard room, and it was perfectly fine. .The beds were very comfortable, there were more pillows than I had a clue what to do with (seriously, there were 6 pillows on each bed!) and the temperature was decent. .There was no climate control, so the room tended to be slightly on the warm side, but not enough to every really be a problem. .Bathroom was well-stocked with decent eco-friendly amenities, and considering this was a small town it was a very nice room. .Some pics of the room, with the many-pillowed bed:
Read the rest of the post on my blog at this link.
Mar 14, 2013, 10:11 pm
#22
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I love the report so far. Considering myself going to Peru sometime next year...
Can you say something about the general price level in Peru, and Lima/Cusco in particular? I get the impression that Peru is not a super bargain destination.
Can you say something about the general price level in Peru, and Lima/Cusco in particular? I get the impression that Peru is not a super bargain destination.
Mar 16, 2013, 5:46 pm
#23
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Great pics and report
Is it the rainy season now? We are looking at going in a coupe of weeks.
The plan is to spend a day in Lima, a day in Cusco and a day of rest before tackling Macchu Pichu
We are also on the Vistadome from Ollanta with about 5 hrs at the top.
Also on the plan is a couple of days in Lima on the way back.
Any advice appreciated; please post or PM
Is it the rainy season now? We are looking at going in a coupe of weeks.
The plan is to spend a day in Lima, a day in Cusco and a day of rest before tackling Macchu Pichu
We are also on the Vistadome from Ollanta with about 5 hrs at the top.
Also on the plan is a couple of days in Lima on the way back.
Any advice appreciated; please post or PM
Mar 20, 2013, 11:59 am
#24
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Mar 20, 2013, 6:53 pm
#25
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Machu Picchu
By the time we'd grabbed a small snack, the drizzle had turned into a steady light rain...not a good sign for our afternoon at Machu Picchu. .Let me back up here and talk about tickets a bit. .You can in theory buy tickets from the government website, but when we went the website's payment portal was down for two straight week so we had no way to get them in advance except through our hotel. .The hotel arranged them for us by credit card, and we were able to pick them up along with bus tickets when we checked in. .There was approximately a $10-15 surcharge per ticket for this service, but it definitely beat being caught out in the rain with no ticket when we'd gone that far!
We took the bus up the very very windy road to the top of Machu Picchu, and the steady rain continued. .It was actually pretty miserable, but we did manage to walk around for about 45 minutes until the rain let up a bit. .A few views from the very top of the site, looking down over the valley:
The rain let up slightly, and we descended down into the main site and walked around for a bit:
The rest of the post, with lots more pictures, is on my blog at this link.
We took the bus up the very very windy road to the top of Machu Picchu, and the steady rain continued. .It was actually pretty miserable, but we did manage to walk around for about 45 minutes until the rain let up a bit. .A few views from the very top of the site, looking down over the valley:
The rain let up slightly, and we descended down into the main site and walked around for a bit:
The rest of the post, with lots more pictures, is on my blog at this link.
Mar 20, 2013, 8:43 pm
#27
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I know the weather may have made it seem miserable, but the one and only day I was at Machu Picchu I was suffering the after effects of a meal in Ollantaytambo the evening before. I would barely have enough time to make it to the ruins...before having to run back to the bathroom at the start.
Still yearning to return...
Still yearning to return...
Mar 25, 2013, 7:10 pm
#28
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Aguas Calientes to DC via Cuzco, Lima, and New York
Fortunately our train out of Aguas Calientes was in the afternoon, so we had a chance to sleep in and take it easy in Aguas Calientes before we had to be at the train station for the ride back. We grabbed a casual lunch near the train station as I mentioned in another post, and then it was back to Cuzco first by train, then by shuttle bus, and finally a taxi to our hotel. We'd decided to stay at the Hotel Monasterio again, and they had our driver waiting at the train/shuttle station and our stored bags already in our new room. Absolutely perfect.
One last dinner in Cuzco, and it was up early for our series of flights back home. One last breakfast at the hotel, and they arranged a taxi for us to the airport. Once again, everything at this hotel was flawless, and geared towards people visiting Cuzco and/or Machu Picchu. A very early breakfast before our taxi, taxi to the airport arranged and on time...it was excellent.
The Cuzco airport is relatively small, and the business class/Star Alliance Gold line had a 15-20 minute line before we could check in. However, when we did, we were surprised to hear the agent say "I am adding your name to the list, you can ask about an upgrade at the gate." I didn't question her, but why was this? Are Star Alliance Gold members (and companions!) automatically upgraded space available at the gate on TACA?!
Immigration and security were maybe a 10 minute affair, and soon we were in the very congested departures area for our flight.
TACA Peru flight 830
Cuzco, Peru (CUZ) to.Lima, Peru (LIM)
Depart 8:05, Arrive 9:30, Flight Time 1:25
Airbus A320, Registration N498TA, Manufactured 2008, Seat 2K
About two minutes before boarding, the gate agent called our names, and wrote new seat numbers on our boarding passes...upgrade confirmed! .I still don't know why, since coach was only about 75% full, and we were two of four in business, but I'm not complaining at all!
It was a pretty routine flight, with a small meal offered. .Seats were typical US-style up-front seats, so nothing special, but it was nice having all sorts of extra room! .A shot of the meal:
We had to wait around in Lima for a little over an hour, since the COPA check-in counter didn't open until 11am and we'd arrived a bit after 9. .Our bags were first off the belt (these were separate tickets) and we managed to kill a bit of time trying to wake up at Starbucks. .Check-in was quick and efficient, and soon we were through immigration and security (very quick) and off to the SUMAQ lounge.
Now, a few things about this lounge. .First, there are awards everywhere announcing it has won lounge of the year for this year and that. .So, with that expectation...
1) .COPA had told us no invitations were necessary. .Not true, and they wouldn't let us in. .Calls to the COPA desk went unanswered. .I was hot and cranky at this point, so used Priority Pass to get into the lounge, paying for a guest . They promised to keep calling COPA, and if COPA would bring them an invitation they would void the Priority Pass charge. .This did happen after about an hour, and wasn't the lounge's fault, but was still severely annoying.
2) .The lounge was absolutely packed to the point there was not a seat anywhere. .It was also extremely warm and uncomfortable. .After about 30 minutes it did clear out a bit (there appeared to be a flight that took 50+ people out of the lounge) but there were still maybe only 10 power outlets in the whole lounge.
3) .Choice of food was absolutely horrid. .A few cookies and cakes and nuts, but that was absolutely it.
4) .The lounge was packed with screaming children playing videogames without headsets. .It was absolutely horrid - and maybe it's not the lounge's fault, but contributed to an already unpleasant atmosphere.
All that said, I serious have no idea how this place was named lounge of the country, much less worldwide lounge of the year any time in the last 100 years. .I promised on Facebook I'd give an honest review of this place, and there it is.
More on my blog at this link....
One last dinner in Cuzco, and it was up early for our series of flights back home. One last breakfast at the hotel, and they arranged a taxi for us to the airport. Once again, everything at this hotel was flawless, and geared towards people visiting Cuzco and/or Machu Picchu. A very early breakfast before our taxi, taxi to the airport arranged and on time...it was excellent.
The Cuzco airport is relatively small, and the business class/Star Alliance Gold line had a 15-20 minute line before we could check in. However, when we did, we were surprised to hear the agent say "I am adding your name to the list, you can ask about an upgrade at the gate." I didn't question her, but why was this? Are Star Alliance Gold members (and companions!) automatically upgraded space available at the gate on TACA?!
Immigration and security were maybe a 10 minute affair, and soon we were in the very congested departures area for our flight.
TACA Peru flight 830
Cuzco, Peru (CUZ) to.Lima, Peru (LIM)
Depart 8:05, Arrive 9:30, Flight Time 1:25
Airbus A320, Registration N498TA, Manufactured 2008, Seat 2K
About two minutes before boarding, the gate agent called our names, and wrote new seat numbers on our boarding passes...upgrade confirmed! .I still don't know why, since coach was only about 75% full, and we were two of four in business, but I'm not complaining at all!
It was a pretty routine flight, with a small meal offered. .Seats were typical US-style up-front seats, so nothing special, but it was nice having all sorts of extra room! .A shot of the meal:
We had to wait around in Lima for a little over an hour, since the COPA check-in counter didn't open until 11am and we'd arrived a bit after 9. .Our bags were first off the belt (these were separate tickets) and we managed to kill a bit of time trying to wake up at Starbucks. .Check-in was quick and efficient, and soon we were through immigration and security (very quick) and off to the SUMAQ lounge.
Now, a few things about this lounge. .First, there are awards everywhere announcing it has won lounge of the year for this year and that. .So, with that expectation...
1) .COPA had told us no invitations were necessary. .Not true, and they wouldn't let us in. .Calls to the COPA desk went unanswered. .I was hot and cranky at this point, so used Priority Pass to get into the lounge, paying for a guest . They promised to keep calling COPA, and if COPA would bring them an invitation they would void the Priority Pass charge. .This did happen after about an hour, and wasn't the lounge's fault, but was still severely annoying.
2) .The lounge was absolutely packed to the point there was not a seat anywhere. .It was also extremely warm and uncomfortable. .After about 30 minutes it did clear out a bit (there appeared to be a flight that took 50+ people out of the lounge) but there were still maybe only 10 power outlets in the whole lounge.
3) .Choice of food was absolutely horrid. .A few cookies and cakes and nuts, but that was absolutely it.
4) .The lounge was packed with screaming children playing videogames without headsets. .It was absolutely horrid - and maybe it's not the lounge's fault, but contributed to an already unpleasant atmosphere.
All that said, I serious have no idea how this place was named lounge of the country, much less worldwide lounge of the year any time in the last 100 years. .I promised on Facebook I'd give an honest review of this place, and there it is.
More on my blog at this link....
Mar 26, 2013, 6:11 am
#29
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Jason - thank you so much for your trip report! I am leaving for Peru in 5 weeks and the information you provided is very helpful.
I was particularly happy to see that TACA has a *gold line at the Lima/Cusco airport - it was a detail for which I could not get an answer. I am also hoping that they honor other *gold privileges (like my extra suitcase which may put the scales over the weight requirements for non-*golds). This has been a concern given my love for textiles, etc. I just have a feeling that I will be doing some power shopping while there, thus the concern over the weight of my bags!
Best of luck to you and I look forward to following you on your other trips.
I was particularly happy to see that TACA has a *gold line at the Lima/Cusco airport - it was a detail for which I could not get an answer. I am also hoping that they honor other *gold privileges (like my extra suitcase which may put the scales over the weight requirements for non-*golds). This has been a concern given my love for textiles, etc. I just have a feeling that I will be doing some power shopping while there, thus the concern over the weight of my bags!
Best of luck to you and I look forward to following you on your other trips.
Mar 27, 2013, 11:41 am
#30
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Really wonderful TR, Jason! Especially useful since my wife and I will be visiting this neck of the woods later this year. Thanks for great observations, information and photos!