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Greenland - any advice from those who've been?

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Greenland - any advice from those who've been?

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Old May 8, 2003, 10:10 am
  #16  
 
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Based on ozstamps post, it sounds like you are in for a real adventure
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Old May 8, 2003, 10:28 am
  #17  
 
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I have been to Iceland a few times and Greenland once... It is akin to a frontier mentality. NOTHING like fairly developed and good standard of living Iceland.

My visits were limited to a transit two days in Nuuk and overflight to Kulusuk and a visit to Ilulissat.

I would suggest getting the Iceland/Greenland/Faroe Island Lonely planet guide http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...2362?vi=glance

Some info from their website

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/destinat...land/index.htm

I do concur on the high rates of alcohol abuse and in general an unsafe feeling in large groups in cities/towns that a fight was going to start (in drinking places)....
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Old Oct 11, 2003, 3:31 am
  #18  
 
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I have been to Greenland (twice as it happens) but my experiences are limited to one specific area of the west coast.

If you want to know about Kangerlussuaq (Danish name Sondre Stromfjord) which is just north of the Arctic circle, then let me know.

Aaron

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Old Oct 11, 2003, 5:23 am
  #19  
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I spent a fantastic 3 weeks in Greenland in 1999, travelling on my own from Kangerlussuaq up to Uummanaq and back.

For photos, see http://pattullo.com/greenland/

Tips? Choose your time of year carefully, depending on what you want to do. It's a country (obviously) seriously affected by climate. Getting around in Winter is dogsled or plane/helicopter, Summer is boat.

Personally, I'd recommend flying from Kangerlussuaq (the biggest internation airport) up to Ilulissat, and basing yourself there. Ilulissat is like no other place I have seen on this earth - it's next to a shallow fjord at the end of a glacier where icebergs form and are stuck until a critical mass builds up and they go crashing out to sea... I sat on the edge of the fjord for hours, awe-struck...

Other places definitely worth going to are Qeqertarsuaq (a beautiful island for walking and dogsled rides) and Uummanaq (the view of the town and 'heart-shaped mountain' as you sail in is worth it in its own right).

For travel - book up when you can. Internal flights are expensive and unreliable, due to weather. As a result, all tickets are flexible and the price reflects this. Do try and take at least one flight in a Sikorsky helicopter, though, it's great fun The coastal ferries also get very heavily booked up, so get places reserved as soon as you know when you want to go where.

If you're going in Summer, beware the mosquitos! Seriously, be careful.

If you're into marine wildlife, you won't be disappointed. Aasiaat is a fantastic place for whale-spotting (and Aurora Borealis, around September/Octover), but do be aware that people that take you out to see them are those best suited to spotting them: whale/seal hunters. Not everyone is happy with that.

Make sure you eat lots and lots of local fish. The rainbow trout and halibut are fantastic. Don't expect to go out drinking - drinking halls aren't the most welcoming, and neither are the prices. Try some musk ox too...

Don't underestimate how much everything costs. It's an expensive place to visit. Even youth hostels can cost upwards of $35 per night.

Oh, and if you're scared of dogs, you'll hate it. They're everywhere. Really, everywhere. You get woken up by a dawn chorus of barking. In Summer, they tend to get chained up in a field on the edge of town, which means you run the gauntlet of dogs every time you go walking...

Watch shop and bank opening hours. ATMs tend to be inside banks, without out-of-hours access. Many shops are state-run with limited hours, especially in more remote places.

As Billy Connolly says, there's no such thing as 'bad weather', only 'inappropriate clothing'. This is important round here Read up on the climate - it's not as cold as you think. Invest in 'breathable' fabrics - the sun can be strong through the cold.

That's all I can think of for now, but... It's an absolutely unique place, and, to date, filled with the most beautiful natural phenomena I have ever seen. I highly recommend it.
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Old Oct 11, 2003, 7:58 am
  #20  
 
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I would say September is the best time to visit Greenland. Mossies are being killed off by the lower temps, but it's not so cold that it's unbearable.

Aaron

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Old Oct 11, 2003, 9:14 am
  #21  
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I very helpful post stut. Thanks!
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Old Oct 12, 2003, 7:09 pm
  #22  
 
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For those that are interested in going, IcelandAir has periodically had packages that go to Kulusuk and other places. Haven't been yet, but I'm planning to go at some point soon. Sometimes they get announced in the Lucky Fares (discounts) email.

http://www.icelandair.com/ -- the international airline
http://www.airiceland.is/ -- the "domestic" airline (Iceland, Greenland, Faroe Islands)
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Old Oct 12, 2003, 10:32 pm
  #23  
 
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Please post a trip report when you go.
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