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Old Apr 22, 2021, 6:10 am
  #1  
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Galapagos guide recommendation

Had heard several travelers say now is a great time to go to the Galapagos, both because the islands are empty and because the locals are in need (as many places) of tourist money, being their main source of income.
Have now been here three weeks and was the right decision. Put together my initial island hopping tour with what I can only describe as the best guide I have ever had, a man called Alex Arregui, a marine biologist who has actually worked at the Charles Darwin centre, then worked as a special guide for many years and now has set up on his own. His knowledge, experience, and sense of humour, are unmatched for me in a guide (and I know scientists!). He turns his hand to anything at all - need some help with a pick up from somewhere unrelated to your tour ? - let me help you. And he knows everybody in the Galapagos and further. I cannot recommend him highly enough and he has allowed me to put his email here if you would like to connect with him (he’s already getting booked up with island hopping tours for June so move fast I’d say) : [email protected] (best put [email protected] in copy),
Happy to give details of my trip and hotel reviews if anybody would like. Just contact me.
W.
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Old Jun 7, 2021, 12:20 pm
  #2  
 
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 1,868
Originally Posted by Winnie1
Had heard several travelers say now is a great time to go to the Galapagos, both because the islands are empty and because the locals are in need (as many places) of tourist money, being their main source of income.
Have now been here three weeks and was the right decision. Put together my initial island hopping tour with what I can only describe as the best guide I have ever had, a man called Alex Arregui, a marine biologist who has actually worked at the Charles Darwin centre, then worked as a special guide for many years and now has set up on his own. His knowledge, experience, and sense of humour, are unmatched for me in a guide (and I know scientists!). He turns his hand to anything at all - need some help with a pick up from somewhere unrelated to your tour ? - let me help you. And he knows everybody in the Galapagos and further. I cannot recommend him highly enough and he has allowed me to put his email here if you would like to connect with him (he’s already getting booked up with island hopping tours for June so move fast I’d say) : [email protected] (best put [email protected] in copy),
Happy to give details of my trip and hotel reviews if anybody would like. Just contact me.
W.
I'd be very interested in what you've been doing and what you've seen! We'll be going in August - short trip with a small budget, so a private guide isn't in our cards - but we'd like to make the most of it. I hear that even the well traveled areas are flush with wildlife with so few tourists, has that been your experience? This was supposed to be a bucket list destination, but between some great miles redemptions and insanely low lodging, I think this is our, 'scout out the place for (many) future visits' trip.

You are brilliant for spending some of these strange times down there.
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Old Jun 14, 2021, 2:57 am
  #3  
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Sure, happy to!.
As far as wildlife is concerned, I can only comment on Isabela and Santa Cruz islands. We were going to visit San Cristobal too but there were not enough transport links (or any at that time.
For me the best island by far for wildlife is Isabela island. Actually the best island full stop. There's not much there in terms of infrastructure. The airport is just a little landing strip and a building that I thought was abandoned but does in fact have one office inside. There is one main sand-covered street, parallel with the sea, leading up to the main square and then on to the harbour. Either side there are smaller roads leading out to little communities. There are a few restaurants, some shops, most of which seemed closed. Very sleepy, quiet. Some terrific food at wonderful prices a little away from the main street. Around the hotel I stayed at, Iguana Crossing, there are indeed iguanas crossing, from the side of the hotel over to the beach and back again each day. They are a sight during the hot afternoon sun when they gather on the bridge beside the hotel to rest in the shade and lie on top of each other.
I was in the sea by the hotel most days for an hour. I didn't snorkel, but i love to body surf and caught sea lions jumping through the waves behind me once.
I loved to sit on the little bit of beach by the harbour. Thats where all the sealions gather - both on the harbour steps, the harbour benches, AND on the benches on the beach. Just everywhere. They can be huge, very noisy. People say best not to approach them. That beach is great because you have all the marine iguanas on one side and the sea lions on the other, so as you sit there reading your book, the only one on the beach, you never know what is going to come past you or come out of the water. Just magical.
We did a trip to Los Tuneles that Alex helped us with. That was definitely worth the money. The rock formations are reminiscent of Iceland's volcanic landscape, except there you've got blue-footed booby birds all over the place. The water is relatively shallow, we swam with big turtles, and our guide found a group of sleeping sharks.
We went once to the Concha de Perla bay, just 5 minutes from the harbour. There are a few steps down into the water - a popular place for splashing around in the water for the locals. You can find all sorts in there - sea lions, rays, fish - its great - just time your visit to go when its quieter

Santa Cruz has the main town and, after a hop skip and a jump, the airport. Alex gave us a terrific tour of the Charles Darwin centre, where he used to work as a scientist (he even took care of George). We stopped off at the fish market - very interesting watching the birds and sealions watching what the fisherman were bringing in and cutting up. They get so close, makes for some great photos. We visited one of the tortoise sanctuaries which was nice. Huge animals, nice quiet place. Alex our guide again knew everybody.

Thats about it I think. It IS an expensive place, thats for sure - I can't imagine what it must have been like price-wise in pre-pandemic times. BUT right now prices are lower, and for example for food, you don't need to go to the restaurants on the main streets, wander back a bit along side streets. TAKE US DOLLARS. there are FEW ATM MACHINES on Santa Cruz and, at the time I was there only one on Isabela and that seemed not to work properly. I saw several American tourists on fishing trips asking the hotel reception where they could get to an ATM on Isabela... Don't leave it till then. Bring the cash with you.

In April everywhere was pretty empty. You have to jump through a few hoops to get there but it is worth it for that feeling of peace, quiet, nature, sitting at a restaurant and chatting with the locals, who were lovely. The stories they tell of the pandemic are worthy of a Hollywood movie. I encourage anyone who ever thought of going to go now, the people need the tourist dollars and you will hopefully still have the place more or less to yourselves. No cruise ships, big tour buses, nothing.

And contact Alex and his wonderful wife Lisa if you have any questions. You don't have to book anything with them (although its not as expensive as you might think - they do NOT do cruises (for cruises most of the tax money goes back to Quito it seems and not to the Galapagos), they do island-hopping, either using local ferries or the local airline, encouraging getting to know the local businesses and guides. They will help and answer as best they can. For example if you want a recommendation for renting a bike on Isabela (which I strongly recommend), drop them a line.

Alex and Lisa now have a Facebook page 'Galápagos Alex' so you can find them through that, otherwise you have their email addresses in my original post.

At least once a week I re-visit me cycling down that wide, sandy main road on Isabela island... I will be back.

Happy Travels!
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Old Jun 14, 2021, 9:35 am
  #4  
 
Join Date: May 2014
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Originally Posted by Winnie1
Sure, happy to!.
As far as wildlife is concerned, I can only comment on Isabela and Santa Cruz islands. We were going to visit San Cristobal too but there were not enough transport links (or any at that time.
For me the best island by far for wildlife is Isabela island. Actually the best island full stop. There's not much there in terms of infrastructure. The airport is just a little landing strip and a building that I thought was abandoned but does in fact have one office inside. There is one main sand-covered street, parallel with the sea, leading up to the main square and then on to the harbour. Either side there are smaller roads leading out to little communities. There are a few restaurants, some shops, most of which seemed closed. Very sleepy, quiet. Some terrific food at wonderful prices a little away from the main street. Around the hotel I stayed at, Iguana Crossing, there are indeed iguanas crossing, from the side of the hotel over to the beach and back again each day. They are a sight during the hot afternoon sun when they gather on the bridge beside the hotel to rest in the shade and lie on top of each other.
I was in the sea by the hotel most days for an hour. I didn't snorkel, but i love to body surf and caught sea lions jumping through the waves behind me once.
I loved to sit on the little bit of beach by the harbour. Thats where all the sealions gather - both on the harbour steps, the harbour benches, AND on the benches on the beach. Just everywhere. They can be huge, very noisy. People say best not to approach them. That beach is great because you have all the marine iguanas on one side and the sea lions on the other, so as you sit there reading your book, the only one on the beach, you never know what is going to come past you or come out of the water. Just magical.
We did a trip to Los Tuneles that Alex helped us with. That was definitely worth the money. The rock formations are reminiscent of Iceland's volcanic landscape, except there you've got blue-footed booby birds all over the place. The water is relatively shallow, we swam with big turtles, and our guide found a group of sleeping sharks.
We went once to the Concha de Perla bay, just 5 minutes from the harbour. There are a few steps down into the water - a popular place for splashing around in the water for the locals. You can find all sorts in there - sea lions, rays, fish - its great - just time your visit to go when its quieter

Santa Cruz has the main town and, after a hop skip and a jump, the airport. Alex gave us a terrific tour of the Charles Darwin centre, where he used to work as a scientist (he even took care of George). We stopped off at the fish market - very interesting watching the birds and sealions watching what the fisherman were bringing in and cutting up. They get so close, makes for some great photos. We visited one of the tortoise sanctuaries which was nice. Huge animals, nice quiet place. Alex our guide again knew everybody.

Thats about it I think. It IS an expensive place, thats for sure - I can't imagine what it must have been like price-wise in pre-pandemic times. BUT right now prices are lower, and for example for food, you don't need to go to the restaurants on the main streets, wander back a bit along side streets. TAKE US DOLLARS. there are FEW ATM MACHINES on Santa Cruz and, at the time I was there only one on Isabela and that seemed not to work properly. I saw several American tourists on fishing trips asking the hotel reception where they could get to an ATM on Isabela... Don't leave it till then. Bring the cash with you.

In April everywhere was pretty empty. You have to jump through a few hoops to get there but it is worth it for that feeling of peace, quiet, nature, sitting at a restaurant and chatting with the locals, who were lovely. The stories they tell of the pandemic are worthy of a Hollywood movie. I encourage anyone who ever thought of going to go now, the people need the tourist dollars and you will hopefully still have the place more or less to yourselves. No cruise ships, big tour buses, nothing.

And contact Alex and his wonderful wife Lisa if you have any questions. You don't have to book anything with them (although its not as expensive as you might think - they do NOT do cruises (for cruises most of the tax money goes back to Quito it seems and not to the Galapagos), they do island-hopping, either using local ferries or the local airline, encouraging getting to know the local businesses and guides. They will help and answer as best they can. For example if you want a recommendation for renting a bike on Isabela (which I strongly recommend), drop them a line.

Alex and Lisa now have a Facebook page 'Galápagos Alex' so you can find them through that, otherwise you have their email addresses in my original post.

At least once a week I re-visit me cycling down that wide, sandy main road on Isabela island... I will be back.

Happy Travels!

Thank you so much! I've spent the week or so since booking the tickets researching, and I'm absolutely thrilled to hear that a lot of what we have 'planned' was noted in your review! We never imagined we'd be taking a budget trip when it came time to visit a destination like this, but I think as long as we treat it like we're camping with running hot water, mattresses, and air conditioning, we'll survive and enjoy the trip immensely ;-)

Right now, we are booked for three nights on the three islands, with the intent of renting a bike at each island and doing a very few day tours. We may change that up and add one night to Isabela and only do two nights on San Cristobal. I don't want to get my hopes up very high on particular day tours, because we won't have a lot of flexibility on such a short trip and I imagined (and you've confirmed) that a lot of things aren't business as usual yet. I hope very much (for them and us) that by then they've recovered somewhat. I especially hope the ferries to San Cristobal are running by the time we arrive, that's where we're scheduled to fly home from!

We would definitely like to do Tunules and Sierra Negra on Isabela, a 360 trip around San Cristobal, and (least likely, but we're crossing our fingers) a trip to Bartolome from Puerto Ayora. Otherwise, our plan is just to get bikes, explore the areas we're allowed to explore, and relax. I'm very appreciative of you posting your trip review. If you have any specific recommendations for less expensive food, I'm all ears! I think I will reach out to your guide, having some boots on the ground as the situation down there evolves (ha!) doesn't sound like a bad idea. Thank you again!!
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Old Jun 21, 2021, 8:05 am
  #5  
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Originally Posted by synergistic
Thank you so much If you have any specific recommendations for less expensive food, I'm all ears! I think I will reach out to your guide, having some boots on the ground as the situation down there evolves (ha!) doesn't sound like a bad idea. Thank you again!!
So I think if you reach out to Alex and Lisa then ask them what was the place that we went to several times, back from the main street, where they had the barbecue set up outside and they grilled meat and fish and shrimp every night (always the same), so you got a plate of Rice, beans, grilled meat/shrimps/fish, plus freshly-made local fruit juice, all for US$8 or US$10
he'll know which one it is. Its mainly full of locals and a few sharp-eyed tourists.
Don-t forget to take cash! the ATM machines are totally unreliable.
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Old Jun 21, 2021, 11:44 am
  #6  
 
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 1,868
Originally Posted by Winnie1
So I think if you reach out to Alex and Lisa then ask them what was the place that we went to several times, back from the main street, where they had the barbecue set up outside and they grilled meat and fish and shrimp every night (always the same), so you got a plate of Rice, beans, grilled meat/shrimps/fish, plus freshly-made local fruit juice, all for US$8 or US$10
he'll know which one it is. Its mainly full of locals and a few sharp-eyed tourists.
Don-t forget to take cash! the ATM machines are totally unreliable.
I am in contact with Alex, and he and his wife have already been sooo friendly and knowledgeable! He is already booked part of our trip, but I am hopeful he's going to be able to coordinate our airport pickup (with brief highlands 'tour' on the way) and some day tours from Santa Cruz, as well as accompany us to Isabela for a couple more tours. I threw a bit of a wrench in his planning by pre-booking accommodations, but he's been wonderful and I'm excited to explore with him.

I'll definitely ask about that restaurant! I have some recommendations from elsewhere but knowing more is always better - much of the info I have is from pre-plague, and it's hard to guess how much has changed.

The idea of traveling with cash is sooo foreign to me, but I hear that same warning over and over again, so we'll definitely heed it. I understand the islands are very safe, and I don't have reason to worry like I would on the mainland.

Last edited by synergistic; Jun 21, 2021 at 7:12 pm
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Old Jun 21, 2021, 7:01 pm
  #7  
 
Join Date: May 2014
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I think it looks like it's going to work out brilliantly - I cannot thank you enough for your recommendation. I was reasonably content to do whatever was available last minute for a discount, but I took a chance and told him exactly what we wish we could do, and he put it all together -even with a few requested modifications. I am comfortable paying the (surprisingly small!) premium over the 2019 local last minute pricing I've seen online to lock in our dream itinerary. Maybe next trip we'll roll the dice, but I'm beyond thrilled to mitigate some of the covid uncertainty by working with folks like this. Thank you so much!
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Old Aug 31, 2021, 11:35 am
  #8  
 
Join Date: May 2014
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Just wanted to follow up here after our trip - I cannot say enough wonderful things about the islands, the wildlife, the landscapes, and the people. Alex (and Lisa!) were fantastic to work with, and handled everything for us. The tours he booked for us were absolutely perfect, on good boats with great crews. Now that we feel more comfortable on the islands, I don't think we'd need the same level of coordination from a guide - but the total cost was only about $100pp than if we'd booked the 'leftover' last minute tours, and he was able to guarantee us spots on high quality tours. Plus, when we ran into trouble (couldn't find giant bottles of water and couldn't bear to buy a bunch of small bottles just to throw them away, or I was having trouble getting my translator app to explain the idea of moleskin to a pharmacist) he was a phone call away, happy to help instantly. His food recommendations were on point, as well! I keep reading that the food there is meh, but I disagree completely - we ate like kings! So much seafood! And I'm already craving bolones and tortillas de verde!!

Something I didn't have the guts to ask you was how well Alex spoke english. His wife had told me that he went to university in the UK, so I knew it'd be at least passable... Turns out his english is excellent - and I'm hard of hearing, so sometimes accents give me additional trouble. His tour through the Darwin Station was a highlight of the trip - did he tell you he used to feed Lonesome George?? He was a joy to just walk around with, pointing out birds and plants and sharing information about the past and present of the island.

He also set up a tour for us on San Cristobal with another true gem - Fabo, with Galapagos Eco-Challenger. The 360 tour with him and his excellent crew was just incredible, and we hung around afterwards to chat with him and his wife. I feel a bit like you now, trying to spread the good word about this magical place and these amazing people online so we can share the wealth!


Oh, and for others - I 100% felt safer on the islands than I do in my home city, or even at our own national parks. Here, everyone is both vaccinated AND has tested negative recently. It is REALLY easy to stay in open air - we weren't in an enclosed room with other humans a single time between leaving the airport and checking back in ten days later. Everything is kept scrupulously clean, and everyone is far more respectful of personal space than I expected. We were thinking about Europe in November, but I think if we take a big November trip, it'll be back to the Galapagos.
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Old Sep 2, 2021, 6:50 am
  #9  
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Join Date: Oct 2019
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Originally Posted by synergistic
Just wanted to follow up here after our trip - I cannot say enough wonderful things about the islands, the wildlife, the landscapes, and the people. Alex (and Lisa!) were fantastic to work with, and handled everything for us. The tours he booked for us were absolutely perfect, on good boats with great crews. Now that we feel more comfortable on the islands, I don't think we'd need the same level of coordination from a guide - but the total cost was only about $100pp than if we'd booked the 'leftover' last minute tours, and he was able to guarantee us spots on high quality tours. Plus, when we ran into trouble (couldn't find giant bottles of water and couldn't bear to buy a bunch of small bottles just to throw them away, or I was having trouble getting my translator app to explain the idea of moleskin to a pharmacist) he was a phone call away, happy to help instantly. His food recommendations were on point, as well! I keep reading that the food there is meh, but I disagree completely - we ate like kings! So much seafood! And I'm already craving bolones and tortillas de verde!!

Something I didn't have the guts to ask you was how well Alex spoke english. His wife had told me that he went to university in the UK, so I knew it'd be at least passable... Turns out his english is excellent - and I'm hard of hearing, so sometimes accents give me additional trouble. His tour through the Darwin Station was a highlight of the trip - did he tell you he used to feed Lonesome George?? He was a joy to just walk around with, pointing out birds and plants and sharing information about the past and present of the island.

He also set up a tour for us on San Cristobal with another true gem - Fabo, with Galapagos Eco-Challenger. The 360 tour with him and his excellent crew was just incredible, and we hung around afterwards to chat with him and his wife. I feel a bit like you now, trying to spread the good word about this magical place and these amazing people online so we can share the wealth!


Oh, and for others - I 100% felt safer on the islands than I do in my home city, or even at our own national parks. Here, everyone is both vaccinated AND has tested negative recently. It is REALLY easy to stay in open air - we weren't in an enclosed room with other humans a single time between leaving the airport and checking back in ten days later. Everything is kept scrupulously clean, and everyone is far more respectful of personal space than I expected. We were thinking about Europe in November, but I think if we take a big November trip, it'll be back to the Galapagos.

Well hello! how kind of you to come back and post a mini trip report including your experience with the wonderful Alex and Lisa tour guides. I am so happy to read that all went well, and that he even helped you out when you were in a spot of bother not connected to any tours, like the bottles of water and the pharmacy - not surprising as they are just the kindest, most efficient people over there. They truly are the way to go to visit the Galapagos Islands. I too am thinking of returning, maybe in January. I do hope you return and make even more wonderful memories - Europe is wonderful too, although I can't recommend any guides in the same way as I can for the Galapagos. Stay well and keep up the adventures!
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