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Old Jun 14, 2021 | 9:35 am
  #4  
synergistic
All eyes on you!
10 Years on Site
 
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 1,983
Originally Posted by Winnie1
Sure, happy to!.
As far as wildlife is concerned, I can only comment on Isabela and Santa Cruz islands. We were going to visit San Cristobal too but there were not enough transport links (or any at that time.
For me the best island by far for wildlife is Isabela island. Actually the best island full stop. There's not much there in terms of infrastructure. The airport is just a little landing strip and a building that I thought was abandoned but does in fact have one office inside. There is one main sand-covered street, parallel with the sea, leading up to the main square and then on to the harbour. Either side there are smaller roads leading out to little communities. There are a few restaurants, some shops, most of which seemed closed. Very sleepy, quiet. Some terrific food at wonderful prices a little away from the main street. Around the hotel I stayed at, Iguana Crossing, there are indeed iguanas crossing, from the side of the hotel over to the beach and back again each day. They are a sight during the hot afternoon sun when they gather on the bridge beside the hotel to rest in the shade and lie on top of each other.
I was in the sea by the hotel most days for an hour. I didn't snorkel, but i love to body surf and caught sea lions jumping through the waves behind me once.
I loved to sit on the little bit of beach by the harbour. Thats where all the sealions gather - both on the harbour steps, the harbour benches, AND on the benches on the beach. Just everywhere. They can be huge, very noisy. People say best not to approach them. That beach is great because you have all the marine iguanas on one side and the sea lions on the other, so as you sit there reading your book, the only one on the beach, you never know what is going to come past you or come out of the water. Just magical.
We did a trip to Los Tuneles that Alex helped us with. That was definitely worth the money. The rock formations are reminiscent of Iceland's volcanic landscape, except there you've got blue-footed booby birds all over the place. The water is relatively shallow, we swam with big turtles, and our guide found a group of sleeping sharks.
We went once to the Concha de Perla bay, just 5 minutes from the harbour. There are a few steps down into the water - a popular place for splashing around in the water for the locals. You can find all sorts in there - sea lions, rays, fish - its great - just time your visit to go when its quieter

Santa Cruz has the main town and, after a hop skip and a jump, the airport. Alex gave us a terrific tour of the Charles Darwin centre, where he used to work as a scientist (he even took care of George). We stopped off at the fish market - very interesting watching the birds and sealions watching what the fisherman were bringing in and cutting up. They get so close, makes for some great photos. We visited one of the tortoise sanctuaries which was nice. Huge animals, nice quiet place. Alex our guide again knew everybody.

Thats about it I think. It IS an expensive place, thats for sure - I can't imagine what it must have been like price-wise in pre-pandemic times. BUT right now prices are lower, and for example for food, you don't need to go to the restaurants on the main streets, wander back a bit along side streets. TAKE US DOLLARS. there are FEW ATM MACHINES on Santa Cruz and, at the time I was there only one on Isabela and that seemed not to work properly. I saw several American tourists on fishing trips asking the hotel reception where they could get to an ATM on Isabela... Don't leave it till then. Bring the cash with you.

In April everywhere was pretty empty. You have to jump through a few hoops to get there but it is worth it for that feeling of peace, quiet, nature, sitting at a restaurant and chatting with the locals, who were lovely. The stories they tell of the pandemic are worthy of a Hollywood movie. I encourage anyone who ever thought of going to go now, the people need the tourist dollars and you will hopefully still have the place more or less to yourselves. No cruise ships, big tour buses, nothing.

And contact Alex and his wonderful wife Lisa if you have any questions. You don't have to book anything with them (although its not as expensive as you might think - they do NOT do cruises (for cruises most of the tax money goes back to Quito it seems and not to the Galapagos), they do island-hopping, either using local ferries or the local airline, encouraging getting to know the local businesses and guides. They will help and answer as best they can. For example if you want a recommendation for renting a bike on Isabela (which I strongly recommend), drop them a line.

Alex and Lisa now have a Facebook page 'Galápagos Alex' so you can find them through that, otherwise you have their email addresses in my original post.

At least once a week I re-visit me cycling down that wide, sandy main road on Isabela island... I will be back.

Happy Travels!

Thank you so much! I've spent the week or so since booking the tickets researching, and I'm absolutely thrilled to hear that a lot of what we have 'planned' was noted in your review! We never imagined we'd be taking a budget trip when it came time to visit a destination like this, but I think as long as we treat it like we're camping with running hot water, mattresses, and air conditioning, we'll survive and enjoy the trip immensely ;-)

Right now, we are booked for three nights on the three islands, with the intent of renting a bike at each island and doing a very few day tours. We may change that up and add one night to Isabela and only do two nights on San Cristobal. I don't want to get my hopes up very high on particular day tours, because we won't have a lot of flexibility on such a short trip and I imagined (and you've confirmed) that a lot of things aren't business as usual yet. I hope very much (for them and us) that by then they've recovered somewhat. I especially hope the ferries to San Cristobal are running by the time we arrive, that's where we're scheduled to fly home from!

We would definitely like to do Tunules and Sierra Negra on Isabela, a 360 trip around San Cristobal, and (least likely, but we're crossing our fingers) a trip to Bartolome from Puerto Ayora. Otherwise, our plan is just to get bikes, explore the areas we're allowed to explore, and relax. I'm very appreciative of you posting your trip review. If you have any specific recommendations for less expensive food, I'm all ears! I think I will reach out to your guide, having some boots on the ground as the situation down there evolves (ha!) doesn't sound like a bad idea. Thank you again!!
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