The "State" of Oaxaca..............
Oct 28, 2006 | 6:59 am
#1
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The "State" of Oaxaca..............
I have visited the beautiful city of Oaxaca in Mexico twice and although in recent years I have gravitated towards spending more time San Miguel de Allende, I can't help but be dismayed at the political unrest and continued violence that has hit Oaxaca. Just this morning the news wire carried a story about a US cameraman who was killed yesterday by a drive by shooter. The city is all but shut down by blockades. Uniformed police have not had a presence in town since June.
I can't imagine the fear that both Mexicans and the large ex-pat community must feel. Tourism is all but gone there now and in case of the ex-pats... the charm and value of their homes must be going down fast.
I was wondering if any readers have had any first hand experience there recently since the unrest has escalated.
I can't imagine the fear that both Mexicans and the large ex-pat community must feel. Tourism is all but gone there now and in case of the ex-pats... the charm and value of their homes must be going down fast.
I was wondering if any readers have had any first hand experience there recently since the unrest has escalated.
Oct 29, 2006 | 12:24 am
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Right now, DON'T go to Oaxaca city...
The state of Oaxaca (no quote marks necessary, Oaxaca is one of the 31 states, plus the Federal District, of Mexico,) has had periodic troubles. Normally, the teachers have protested during summer school holidays in the center of town - the "zcalo."
This year, the protest began as usual, but the Governor sent folks to break it up and there was violence, The teachers, joined by other demonstrators including members of the PRD and the Oaxaca People's Popular Assembly, established themselves downtown, erected movable barricades and took over some of the media buildings, while calling for the removal of the Governor. The July statewide harvest celebration, Guelaguetza, was even cancelled this year.
On October 19, a protesting teacher was killed in a drive-by shooting. More recently, a group of demonstrators went to Mexico City to petition the government for the removal of Gov. Ruiz. The central government did not find a reason to proceed, though they agreed Gov. Ruiz has some fitness to govern problems. This past week, the demonstrators began returning to Oaxaca, with the teachers agreeing to return to teach Oaxaca's children as of Monday October 30.
In the meantime, armed men attacked the protesters, and there has been violence and deaths. One American journalist and two others were killed Friday October 27, by what many people have stated were police out of uniform.
The President, who is due to relinquish the reins of office at the beginning of December, has also sent "hundreds" of Federal police to Oaxaca to stop the violence; they should be deploying this weekend. On previous occasions, the Federal authorities have been heavy-handed and brought more violence of their own; it remains to be seen how this will play out.
For now, IMO it would be recommended to avoid Oaxaca city other than perhaps to transit the airport en route to non-city destinations. Though we have had a fairly recent post that stated it was calm and the poster had a good time, why take chances - in my years in Mexico I have seen these things go wrong suddenly with rapidly escalating violence, and there has already been significant violence.
It all makes me very sad - Oaxaca is one of my favorite places, and I have spent many pleasant days there.
A few BBC articles:
Demand for end to Mexico protest
Journalist dies in Mexico protest
Mexico governor under Senate fire
Protest teacher killed in Oaxaca
This year, the protest began as usual, but the Governor sent folks to break it up and there was violence, The teachers, joined by other demonstrators including members of the PRD and the Oaxaca People's Popular Assembly, established themselves downtown, erected movable barricades and took over some of the media buildings, while calling for the removal of the Governor. The July statewide harvest celebration, Guelaguetza, was even cancelled this year.
On October 19, a protesting teacher was killed in a drive-by shooting. More recently, a group of demonstrators went to Mexico City to petition the government for the removal of Gov. Ruiz. The central government did not find a reason to proceed, though they agreed Gov. Ruiz has some fitness to govern problems. This past week, the demonstrators began returning to Oaxaca, with the teachers agreeing to return to teach Oaxaca's children as of Monday October 30.
In the meantime, armed men attacked the protesters, and there has been violence and deaths. One American journalist and two others were killed Friday October 27, by what many people have stated were police out of uniform.
The President, who is due to relinquish the reins of office at the beginning of December, has also sent "hundreds" of Federal police to Oaxaca to stop the violence; they should be deploying this weekend. On previous occasions, the Federal authorities have been heavy-handed and brought more violence of their own; it remains to be seen how this will play out.
For now, IMO it would be recommended to avoid Oaxaca city other than perhaps to transit the airport en route to non-city destinations. Though we have had a fairly recent post that stated it was calm and the poster had a good time, why take chances - in my years in Mexico I have seen these things go wrong suddenly with rapidly escalating violence, and there has already been significant violence.
It all makes me very sad - Oaxaca is one of my favorite places, and I have spent many pleasant days there.
A few BBC articles:
Demand for end to Mexico protest
Journalist dies in Mexico protest
Mexico governor under Senate fire
Protest teacher killed in Oaxaca
Oct 29, 2006 | 8:42 pm
#4
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More sad news from Oaxaca
Oct 30, 2006 | 8:06 am
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The government has announced 4,000 Federal riot police have "taken" the city of Oaxaca and are removing the barricades. One youth's life has been lost. Armored vehicles and helicopters were used, along with water cannons and tear gas; the police apparently met modest resistance, as many chose not to use Molotov cocktails, etc. Some damage has occurred, vehicles scorched and shattered, but there seems to have been no major armed violence.
Meantime, approximately 70,000 teachers have returned to the classroom. But some of the more militant demonstrators insist they will continue to act until Gov. Ruiz is removed from office. (He ordered the original July attacks on the demonstrators, which seems to have turned what was a traditional summer demonstration by educators and their supporters into a more radical occupation of the downtown central square area and subsequent escalations of violence.)
We'll hope things settle down, and I would not put it past the Federal Senate to use the occasion to "help" Mr. Ruiz out of office for inability to govern (in accordance with the Mexican Constitutiton, which considerably centralizes power into the hand sof the Federal government.)
Don't go there yet; watch a week or two.
BBC Article
Meantime, approximately 70,000 teachers have returned to the classroom. But some of the more militant demonstrators insist they will continue to act until Gov. Ruiz is removed from office. (He ordered the original July attacks on the demonstrators, which seems to have turned what was a traditional summer demonstration by educators and their supporters into a more radical occupation of the downtown central square area and subsequent escalations of violence.)
We'll hope things settle down, and I would not put it past the Federal Senate to use the occasion to "help" Mr. Ruiz out of office for inability to govern (in accordance with the Mexican Constitutiton, which considerably centralizes power into the hand sof the Federal government.)
Don't go there yet; watch a week or two.
BBC Article
Nov 1, 2006 | 9:21 pm
#6
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This just in from a cousin who has lived there with her husband Sept-March for several years, speaks native-level Spanish, has many friends in the city and has written a guidebook to it:
Well, here it is a couple of days after the federal troops entered Oaxaca. Things are much calmer now. People are walking around the zocalo, and some of the stores and restaurants have begun to re-open. The Day of the Dead celebration is very muted this year, with far fewer altars in the stores and hotels. Of course this is because many of them are still closed, or the owners don't have the cash to buy the supplies they need to make their altars. We went out to the cemetery at Xoxocotlan last night, where we had gone last year. The number of people tending the graves of their relatives seemed about the same as last year, and the atmosphere was still magical, but there were very few tourists in evidence. Last year it was a mob scene.
To go to the zocalo, and to the stores and banks around it, you have to walk past lines of federal troops who are standing there guarding the streets around the zocalo. They look at you, or they dont, but if you say "buenos dias" they respond politely. They are being very low-key. Their gear is all around the zocalo, which now looks like an army camp rather than an encampment of protestors and strikers. Their water trucks and plastic shields and sleeping bags are lined up around the zocalo. Theres a field kitchen set up in the middle of the zocalo to feed the troops, and there are port-a-potties set up all around for them to use. Its kind of funny to see the soldiers lined up to go into the toilets, half of which say "DAMAS."
There was a brief march the other day of people who were demonstrating their approval that Fox had sent in the troops and that the town is being cleaned up. This was portrayed in some of the press as a group of PRI-istas who were showing their support for the governor of Oaxaca, but in reality it was merchants and regular citizens who feel that their voices havent been heard in all this, and are glad that peace has been restored to Oaxaca.
People say that the troops will stay until they are no longer needed, probably into the new year. Although we are in sympathy with the ideology of the APPO, and agree that Ulisses Ruiz needs to be removed, we are glad to have the town gradually getting cleaned up and the barricades removed. There are still burned-out buses in some of the intersections, and graffiti on many of the buildings, but the heart of the city has been taken back, cleaned up, and made useable again, and that's an important psychological step.
The protestors have moved their locus to the area right in front of Santo Domingo church. There are tarps set up, and speeches, but not huge numbers of people and no barricades. So far the troops have stayed away from this area. People have set up Day of the Dead altars on Alcala leading up to the church, and some in front of Santo Domingo. As I sit here in this internet place across from Santo Domingo, I hear a band playing. Amidst everything that has been happening, this is still Oaxaca.
Will keep you posted if there are dramatic new developments, but things are slowly getting back to normal.
Reporting from the scene, this is Juanita. Back to you in the booth, Katie.
To go to the zocalo, and to the stores and banks around it, you have to walk past lines of federal troops who are standing there guarding the streets around the zocalo. They look at you, or they dont, but if you say "buenos dias" they respond politely. They are being very low-key. Their gear is all around the zocalo, which now looks like an army camp rather than an encampment of protestors and strikers. Their water trucks and plastic shields and sleeping bags are lined up around the zocalo. Theres a field kitchen set up in the middle of the zocalo to feed the troops, and there are port-a-potties set up all around for them to use. Its kind of funny to see the soldiers lined up to go into the toilets, half of which say "DAMAS."
There was a brief march the other day of people who were demonstrating their approval that Fox had sent in the troops and that the town is being cleaned up. This was portrayed in some of the press as a group of PRI-istas who were showing their support for the governor of Oaxaca, but in reality it was merchants and regular citizens who feel that their voices havent been heard in all this, and are glad that peace has been restored to Oaxaca.
People say that the troops will stay until they are no longer needed, probably into the new year. Although we are in sympathy with the ideology of the APPO, and agree that Ulisses Ruiz needs to be removed, we are glad to have the town gradually getting cleaned up and the barricades removed. There are still burned-out buses in some of the intersections, and graffiti on many of the buildings, but the heart of the city has been taken back, cleaned up, and made useable again, and that's an important psychological step.
The protestors have moved their locus to the area right in front of Santo Domingo church. There are tarps set up, and speeches, but not huge numbers of people and no barricades. So far the troops have stayed away from this area. People have set up Day of the Dead altars on Alcala leading up to the church, and some in front of Santo Domingo. As I sit here in this internet place across from Santo Domingo, I hear a band playing. Amidst everything that has been happening, this is still Oaxaca.
Will keep you posted if there are dramatic new developments, but things are slowly getting back to normal.
Reporting from the scene, this is Juanita. Back to you in the booth, Katie.
Nov 7, 2006 | 8:41 am
#7
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Potential for violence still exists - associated bombings in Mexico City
Don't we wish it was all over... but it is not, and wishful thinking will not make it so.
20,000 leftist demonstrators, many of them from outside of Oaxaca, marched Sunday November 5 and demanded the resignation of Gov. Ulises Ruiz.
A coalition of five "resistance groups" demanding the resignation of Governor Ruiz set off six coordinated bombs in Mexico City early morning November 6, two of which failed to detonate. The bombs caused property damage at several locations, including the electoral commission and PRI headquarters.
Claims of responsibility and demands were sent to the media, including the Associated Press; the groups indicated they would continue such "military actions" until Ruiz resigns. "Our political-military action is a response to our determination to reply with revolutionary violence to the violence unleashed by the lords of power and money," said the statement.
This is a nasty escalation of violence, now extended to Mexico City itself. I reiterate - it is not over; travel but be cautious.
20,000 leftist demonstrators, many of them from outside of Oaxaca, marched Sunday November 5 and demanded the resignation of Gov. Ulises Ruiz.
A coalition of five "resistance groups" demanding the resignation of Governor Ruiz set off six coordinated bombs in Mexico City early morning November 6, two of which failed to detonate. The bombs caused property damage at several locations, including the electoral commission and PRI headquarters.
Claims of responsibility and demands were sent to the media, including the Associated Press; the groups indicated they would continue such "military actions" until Ruiz resigns. "Our political-military action is a response to our determination to reply with revolutionary violence to the violence unleashed by the lords of power and money," said the statement.
This is a nasty escalation of violence, now extended to Mexico City itself. I reiterate - it is not over; travel but be cautious.
Last edited by JDiver; Nov 7, 2006 at 9:03 am Reason: add /correct
Nov 7, 2006 | 7:54 pm
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Another update from my cousin on the scene:
After a few days of calm in Oaxaca, things heated up again on Thursday. The Federal Preventive Police (PFP) were sent over to an area south of the center of town called Cinco Senores, which is near one of the major shopping centers, Plaza del Valle, and is also near the University campus. Universities in Mexico have a proud tradition of being autonomous, so the idea of the PFP entering the University was truly alarming. University students and faculty have been strongly supportive of APPO. The University radio station was taken over by APPO early on and has been used as their primary means of communication for several months. The people on Radio Universidad put out distress calls to all their listeners, telling them that the PFP was attacking the University. They reported tear gas being thrown, gates being attacked, and water being sprayed from the PFPs trucks at students. The broadcasters called for all APPO supporters and all University students to come to the defense of the University, to put their bodies on the barricades, to prevent at all costs the water supply trucks from getting through, to bring gasoline and diesel and vaseline and vinegar-soaked rags and empty water bottles (to be made into Molotov cocktails), etc. The Rector of the University was reported to be standing before the University gates with his arms outspread, blocking the PFP from entering. An ex-governor of the state of Oaxaca, who is also a former member of the University, was heard on the radio imploring President Fox to call off the PFP, not to let them enter the Universitys gates. These were dramatic moments, with APPO supporters calling in on their cell phones to give desperate, live reports on the radio about the attack. APPO supporters and students responded in droves, and a battle went on for about 5 hours. Amazingly, APPO overcame the PFP. They hurled rocks and gasoline bombs and bombs filled with nails, and managed to keep the PFP at bay. The PFP, meanwhile, were clearly under orders not to escalate the fight and not to engage. They maintained discipline, and when it was apparent that they were going to get hurt while being unable to retaliate, they were ordered to withdraw. There were injuries on both sides, and some journalists were injured as well (from APPOs nail bombs). The PFP commander said afterward that they had never had the intention of entering the University; they were just there to open the crossroads at Cinco Senores which had been blocked off by APPO barricades.
Buoyed up by their victory, APPO has called for a massive march on Sunday. Rumor has it that people are coming in from neighboring states to show their support with APPO. We will see what tomorrow brings.
We still hear the occasional helicopter, but the PFP seems to be using some kind of spy plane now we have been seeing a skinny airplane with very long wings flying slowly over Oaxaca for the last couple of days. It looks kind of like a glider. Evidently this is better technology because it can stay in the air longer than a helicopter and is a lot less obvious.
The Zocalo is still full of the PFP, and the off-duty troops can be seen buying things in local stores, going into places that offer free tastes of mezcal, playing those brightly-lit games where you put in some money and maybe a bunny or some other stuffed animal drops out, lining up for port-a-potties or for meals being served to them from field kitchens, etc. We heard from a hotel-owner friend that the PFP is looking for 3000 hotel rooms for 4 months, or maybe it was 4000 hotel rooms for 3 months either way, it looks like they will be here for a while. And were waiting for the other APPO shoe to drop.
Buoyed up by their victory, APPO has called for a massive march on Sunday. Rumor has it that people are coming in from neighboring states to show their support with APPO. We will see what tomorrow brings.
We still hear the occasional helicopter, but the PFP seems to be using some kind of spy plane now we have been seeing a skinny airplane with very long wings flying slowly over Oaxaca for the last couple of days. It looks kind of like a glider. Evidently this is better technology because it can stay in the air longer than a helicopter and is a lot less obvious.
The Zocalo is still full of the PFP, and the off-duty troops can be seen buying things in local stores, going into places that offer free tastes of mezcal, playing those brightly-lit games where you put in some money and maybe a bunny or some other stuffed animal drops out, lining up for port-a-potties or for meals being served to them from field kitchens, etc. We heard from a hotel-owner friend that the PFP is looking for 3000 hotel rooms for 4 months, or maybe it was 4000 hotel rooms for 3 months either way, it looks like they will be here for a while. And were waiting for the other APPO shoe to drop.
Nov 11, 2006 | 7:23 am
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Thanks for the great updates, Efrem. Poor Oaxaca has had its ups and downs, and we'll hope it stabilizes and gets back to being the colorful, hospitable city we love. At least this time the central government didn't send truckloads of "Aguacates" (regular troops) to create trouble for everyone; the PFP probably got some preliminary training and isntructions before arrival.
Nov 26, 2006 | 11:28 am
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Things seemed to have settled down in Oaxaca <but not for long>, but if you go to that state keep aware of what's happening by asking for local information <and avoid staying in the capital>. The despised governor currently remains in office, and though teachers are all back in the classrooms, there are some folks who are still quite upset. Oaxaca is a beautiful state, with lots of interesting customs, archaeological sites and crafts, and gorgeous weather at this time of year. <Go elsewhere.>
Last edited by JDiver; Nov 27, 2006 at 11:25 am Reason: add / correct due to changes
Nov 26, 2006 | 9:25 pm
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According to this CNN update, things aren't all that settled:
Buildings torched, dozens injured in Mexican tourist town
Buildings torched, dozens injured in Mexican tourist town
Protesters set fire to another building in the colonial city of Oaxaca on Sunday, after torching government offices and vehicles Saturday in demonstrations that left at least 43 injured and 100 arrested.
On Saturday, leftist protesters demanding the resignation of the Oaxaca state governor hurled rocks, powerful fireworks and gasoline bombs at federal police as they tried to encircle the officers in the picturesque, arch-ringed main square of the city.
On Saturday, leftist protesters demanding the resignation of the Oaxaca state governor hurled rocks, powerful fireworks and gasoline bombs at federal police as they tried to encircle the officers in the picturesque, arch-ringed main square of the city.
Nov 26, 2006 | 10:30 pm
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Argh! Things appeared to be settling down, but as Efrem pointed out, earlier today (Sunday, Nov 26,) violence has erutped with a bit of a vengeance - and some of the troubles have spread to Chiapas state as well.
Part of an article in the Los Angeles Times said: "...bands of young people rampaged through downtown, pushing shopping carts loaded with rocks and gasoline bombs.
Court offices in one of Oaxaca's imposing colonial buildings were gutted by flames, and the gangs burned 20 private vehicles and attacked three hotels, throwing firebombs at one and smashing windows at the others.
Fires also damaged four buildings that house government offices, one university building and the state hotel association."
Even the OAX airport may be affected by demonstrations and closures by masses of people, but if you need to visit Oaxaca, avoid the capital for now - and maybe for some time. There is a probablity of at least sporadic protests as long as Ulises Ruz remains as governor; weekends seem to be especially busy with violent behavior. If Federal troops are added to the Federal Preventive Police presence, I would avoid Oaxaca at all costs.
Part of an article in the Los Angeles Times said: "...bands of young people rampaged through downtown, pushing shopping carts loaded with rocks and gasoline bombs.
Court offices in one of Oaxaca's imposing colonial buildings were gutted by flames, and the gangs burned 20 private vehicles and attacked three hotels, throwing firebombs at one and smashing windows at the others.
Fires also damaged four buildings that house government offices, one university building and the state hotel association."
Even the OAX airport may be affected by demonstrations and closures by masses of people, but if you need to visit Oaxaca, avoid the capital for now - and maybe for some time. There is a probablity of at least sporadic protests as long as Ulises Ruz remains as governor; weekends seem to be especially busy with violent behavior. If Federal troops are added to the Federal Preventive Police presence, I would avoid Oaxaca at all costs.
Last edited by JDiver; Nov 27, 2006 at 11:23 am Reason: add