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Where to Eat in Florence [Master Thread]

Old Dec 2, 2016, 10:42 am
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Where to Eat in Florence [Master Thread]

Old Dec 1, 2016, 6:17 pm
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Where to Eat in Florence [Master Thread]

Let's get started. I figure the first post in the thread should cover some of the specifics about eating out in Florence - when, where, those sorts of things. If I pick up any other common tactical questions in the forum, I'll add them here, or ask away in the thread.

When and Where to Eat
Breakfast: Throughout the morning hours.

In Florence, and most of Italy, breakfast is a light snack and not a full meal. Coffee taken at the bar, standing at the counter, along with a small pastry, bread, yogurt or cereal is common.

You generally will not find breakfast served at restaurants, and I'd caution that if you do, the place is likely a tourist trap. Hotels do often serve breakfast, anything from what we'd call a Continental breakfast in the US (coffee, juice, carbs and cold items) to an American breakfast with hot items as well. If you are looking for breakfast, the words to look out for are Colazione or Prima Colazione. Sometimes Colazione Americana is used to indicate American Breakfast, although it'll usually be in English as well since the target market is not Italians.

Lunch: Generally from 12 to 3pm.

While I'll try to not generally editorialize the advice and factual content in this post, I'm going to make an exception and just mention that lunch is consistently my favorite meal of the day in Florence. I'd encourage a light breakfast and an easy dinner if it means a great lunch.

Most restaurants in the city will run splits, meaning they are open for lunch, closed in the middle of the day, and then open again for dinner (if they serve dinner). As a general matter, if a restaurant is open all day, you want to take a hard look at whether it's a tourist trap because that is one of the signs. There are some exceptions, which I'll mention in my recommendations, of great Florentine restaurants that happen to stay open all day.

As with dinner, make reservations if possible. For the places that don't take any, your best bet is to show up a little before opening, or trying back later on in the last hour of service, unless it happens to not be busy in between.

The Italian word for lunch is "Pranzo."

Dinner: Generally from 7-10pm.

The lunch advice is applicable here as well. I'll add that while fewer restaurants take lunch reservations, most do take dinner reservations and I highly recommend making them. Italians themselves might make plans the week of, so reserving 1-2 weeks out is generally fine, except for well known restaurants with long waits. For those, you'll need to research individually, as I'm talking here about more casual restaurants, and not the high end special occasion variety.

One tip I can offer is that Italians tend to eat later, closer to 8pm. If you're working on getting to a place that has more local traffic, that 7pm reservation would be your best bet. You may, on occasion, be told that they are booked up with later reservations and you might be asked to give the table back by a certain time. This is not rude, they are trying to fit you in. And the ask is usually to have it back for a later reservation (as in, you get the table at 7, but we need it back by 9) as to most Italians a dinner out is a longer affair. Generally speaking, though, the table is yours for the night.

The Italian word for dinner is "Cena."

Meal Structure
A Florentine menu, similar to most of Italy, will have appetizers (Antipasti), first courses (Primi), second courses (Secondi) and dessert (Dolci).

Traditional Florentine antipasti include crostini (toasted bread), the most traditional being with a chicken liver pate on top, Ribollita (vegetable soup thickened with bread), and then some of the more familiar like various cuts of salumi with bread (sometimes ordered by the hectogram, or etto, which is 100g).

Primi are generally pastas, as the first course is traditionally a pasta course.

Secondi more commonly include meats and fish.

Dessert could be anything - fruit, cakes, pastries. I should add that fruit in general is very common after a meal, and that becomes especially true with the older generations. As my father explains it, certain fruits were something they only got on special occasions - in his hometown, oranges and bananas were rare. The idea that you can get any kind of fruit any time of year is a more recent thing, so for some of the older generation, the fact that they can have a fruit salad with things that they only used to see on Christmas is a novelty that hasn't worn off. Oh, and also it's better for you, especially if you just ate 3 courses!

You do not have to order one of each course. It's not expected that you will or will not, and certainly not rude. My "usual" is a shared antipasto (or multiple antipasti) for the table, and then either a primo or secondo, depending on my mood. Or sometimes we each get primi and share a secondo. Dessert if something sounds great or we have room for it (rare).

With many pasta dishes, you can often order a half portion (mezza porzione, or mezzo piatto) - even though it is rarely listed on menus. You can always ask. Generally, for simpler pasta dishes, you can get half, for more complex preparations or things like stuffed pastas, the restaurant will decline. But it is absolutely not rude to ask if you can do half an order of pasta.

Coffee is common after the meal or after dessert. The common wisdom is not to order coffee-and-milk type things like cappuccino after breakfast time. It may seem odd if you do. However, I'm not going to get mad at you for doing it, and the restaurant will probably make it for you anyway. So do what you like there.

What to Look For / What to Avoid

The common wisdom in Italy is to look for menus that aren't too long, preferably a menu that appears to be in-season, and not written in 7 different languages or have pictures. In Florence, that is all mostly true, although given the reality that the historic center is a tourist destination, you will find translated menus. Generally speaking, most of my favorite places have hand written menus - that tends to be a good sign. I mentioned before about the better places generally running split schedules, but if the signs here look good, the fact that they're open all day should not veto the place.

I hate to shift to the negative, but I think I'm better at illustrating what to avoid as a means to finding good food in Florence -

If the menu has pictures, or if there is someone outside the restaurant trying to get people in, that's not a good sign. These also tend to be majority of the the places open all day.

A big thing to avoid is a menu that is lengthy or looks too familiar. By that, I mean to indicate that Italian food is very regional, and you tend not to find in Florence a lot of what we in the US know as Italian or Italian-American food. In particular, Spaghetti and Meatballs or Chicken Parmesan on a menu are total showstoppers, as those dishes don't actually exist in Italian cooking. Meatballs exist (polpette), but they're not served on pasta, they are a separate course and they usually don't look like they do in the US. Similarly, stick to places that represent one city region - preferably Florence/Tuscany since that's where you are, but Florence has some pretty good restaurants that represent other regions as well. This is probably the place to mention pizza as well - if a place serves 50 other dishes and pizza as well, you don't want the pizza. Pizza is served in places that more or less focus on that, and they should have a wood (not gas) oven - "forno a legna" is what you're looking for.

Snack bars are also really common, and quality varies wildly. Particularly near tourist attractions, you might see them (sometimes even called Snack Bar, in English) with a glass case full of things - sandwiches, pizzas, pastries, gelato, etc. You're rolling the dice here and I'd say buy here only in a pinch, as it's more likely that the food was mass produced than made in the back that morning. If you want a sandwich, there are lots of little sandwich (panino) shops throughout the historic center. If you want a pizza, there is actually reputable pizza in Florence. If you want gelato, there are many places that do it justice. A snack bar is about convenience. They are, however, a good place to drink a coffee at the counter, as long as you see a machine back there. Remember that the price is different if you sit down, and the local custom is to drink it standing up at the counter.

Location is also important, but not in the way that you might think. As a broad generalization, if it's in Piazza della Repubblica or Piazza del Duomo, don't eat there. The large restaurants in the expensive real estate are usually disappointing.

Finally, the one place that breaks all of my "avoid" rules that is actually great and I will mention by name in this section. The Mercato Centrale has a second floor (Primo Piano, as they number floors differently than we do in the US) that is open from morning to midnight, has nearly anything you could want to eat or drink, sometimes has pictures on the menu and is in prime real estate. I highly recommend it when you want to eat in off hours, don't know where to go, or might otherwise stop in a place you know you should avoid for lack of known better options. This is your fallback plan at the least, and a destination in its own right. It is a collection of food stalls run by well known local purveyors and is great.

I'm going to continue to add to this section. There's a lot of great food in the historic center of Florence, but even more bad food to steer around.

Typical Florentine Cuisine

I'm sure I'm going to miss a lot here. I'll keep adding as I think of things.

Traditional Florentine food is very meat-centric, as well as heavy on beans and lard/oil. Compared to the south, there is less tomato involved. Compared to the north, there is far less polenta and chickpea. Pasta is very common, and Florentines like Ragu Bolognese a lot more than they'd be willing to admit.

Bistecca Fiorentina is probably the best known dish, which is a porterhouse cut from Chianina cattle. It is grilled and traditionally rare to med-rare ("al sangue"). Menus often list it priced by kilo or etto (hectogram, meaning 100g), and when you order you can indicate roughly how large you're looking for, but it won't be exact as the steaks will have already been cut - either in house or by the butcher - that morning. However, this is usually a dish for at least two, or for the whole table, as the cuts generally start at 1kg.

Ribollita is essentially a vegetable soup thickened with bread and one of my favorite things to eat.

Tripe (trippa) and lampredotto (the 4th stomach of the cow, no idea what the English translation is) are traditional street food, usually served in a sandwich with red (tomato) and green (herb) sauces.

White beans are everywhere, especially as a side. It's hard to go wrong with white beans, olive oil and some herbs.

Porchetta is a rolled pork belly roasted slowly and sliced. Usually on a sandwich, or served with the skin crisped up on a plate.

A note about Florentine bread: Traditionally, it is not salted. Actually, this is common throughout Tuscany. I have no idea if it's true, but the story goes that Pisa once cut off Florence's salt supply (as it would arrive at the port of Pisa) in an attempt to win a war. In any case, this is one tradition that I don't enjoy. They have better bread in Pisa.

I know I'm missing a ton, I will continue to edit this thread.

Last edited by PWMTrav; Dec 2, 2016 at 10:41 am
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Old Dec 1, 2016, 6:17 pm
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Casual Recommendations

Lunch Only
Trattoria Sergio Gozzi
Trattoria Mario

Dinner Only


Lunch or Dinner
La Casalinga
Osteria Cipolla Rossa
Fiaschetteria Nuvoli (Open from lunch time until 7-9pm)

Wine Bars
Enoteca Pitti Gola e Cantina (serves lighter dinner items as well)
Fratelli Zanobini (primarily a wine shop, pours glasses at the counter)

Gelato
Perche No!
Vivoli
Carapina

Street Food
PassaGuai
Da Nerbone
I Due Fratellini

Grocery
Eataly (Also has prepared food and seated meals)
Conad City (Via dei Servi)

TODO: Add links, maps, comments

Last edited by PWMTrav; Dec 3, 2016 at 11:22 am Reason: Added content.
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Old Dec 1, 2016, 6:19 pm
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Options for Families with Children

TODO: Update with family friendly options. Most everywhere is happy to host children, not sure if we actually need this.

Last edited by PWMTrav; Dec 4, 2016 at 7:21 am
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Old Dec 3, 2016, 10:08 am
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A quick add - There has been some talk in the forum about Se.Sto on Arno. Dissapore visited and reviewed positively:

http://www.dissapore.com/ristoranti/...teo-lorenzini/

Google Translate will get you most of the way if you care to read the review. I gave it a glance in Italian and the translation isn't too bad. The main points certainly come across.
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Old Dec 3, 2016, 10:24 am
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Another general set of recommendations -

https://www.google.com/search?q=fire...giano+gli+chef

If you Google the city name and "dove mangiano gli chef" you will usually come across articles with well known chefs of a particular city telling people what they like. This is good for general exploration, and is a major way I find new restaurants to try.
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Old Dec 3, 2016, 12:14 pm
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Originally Posted by PWMTrav
A quick add - There has been some talk in the forum about Se.Sto on Arno. Dissapore visited and reviewed positively:

http://www.dissapore.com/ristoranti/...teo-lorenzini/

Google Translate will get you most of the way if you care to read the review. I gave it a glance in Italian and the translation isn't too bad. The main points certainly come across.
One point I hope doesn't get lost in the translation is that the price is about 110 euros per person for dinner, not including wine, so it going to be pretty close to $300 for dinner.
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Old Dec 3, 2016, 1:09 pm
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Originally Posted by PWMTrav
A quick add - There has been some talk in the forum about Se.Sto on Arno. Dissapore visited and reviewed positively:

http://www.dissapore.com/ristoranti/...teo-lorenzini/

Google Translate will get you most of the way if you care to read the review. I gave it a glance in Italian and the translation isn't too bad. The main points certainly come across.
Dissapore is an italian gourmet restaurant guide, published daily. It's not available in english. http://www.dissapore.com/locali/fire...ini-del-mondo/. According to Dissapore, "Florence is the panino capital of world." They say that no other city has mastered the art of combining bread, salume, and cheese like Florence. You can use Google translate, but their list of the best in Florence is:

I Due Fratellini
Pollini
Samel Street Food
All'antico Vinaio
Da Nerbone (inside Mercato Centrale)
Ino

The article indicates that a typical panino costs about 3 euros, so a sandwich and a glass of wine is an inexpensive lunch.

Speaking of sandwiches, it's worth knowing the difference between panino and panini, because in the USA you often hear, "I'll have a panini." Many italian nouns end in an o. To change a noun ending with o (panino) to the pleural form the o is changed to the letter i (panini).

You can ask for a panino, or two panini, but saying "I'll have a panini" is like saying, "I'll have a sandwiches." It makes the server think, "do they want one, or two?"

The article also mentions lampredotto. Although it is the last of the four parts of a cow's stomach, it is called lampredotto because that part of the cow's stomach actually looks like a lamprey eel, a type of eel that lives in the Arno River. Because of that similarity, Florentines attached the name lampredotto to it. It's not translatable into an english word.

Last edited by Perche; Dec 3, 2016 at 9:04 pm
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Old Dec 3, 2016, 3:31 pm
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The authors of Dissapore are all professional food critics. They have writers throughout Italy, and it is highly reliable. Every now and then they put out an article about a city called, "Ristorante con il megliore rapporto qualita' e prezzo." That is, restaurants with the best relationship between quality and price, or where you get value for your money. They recently did an article the 5 restaurants in Florence with the best rapport between quality and price.

http://www.dissapore.com/grande-noti...ualita-prezzo/

It's a very long article. I won't translate it because of potential copyright issues, but I'll briefly paraphrase and summarize. The full article is at the link above:

Florence is a touristy city where they deceive you with fake "traditional" restaurants around every corner. Enough, just keep walking. But for those who think you can only eat poorly in Florence, it is worth looking at the recommendations of natives who remain deeply attached to the city.

A few restaurants remain authentic and haven't changed over the years. There are bistros, tripe places, and restaurants that are a great value. We put together a group of gourmets, went out for lunch, and cross-referenced their findings. In no particular order;

1. Sant Agostino 23
Average price, 40 euros for a meal.

In the heart of the most colorful little part of Florence, this restaurant takes some liberties with the food. They have gazpacho, falafel, hummus, and oversized hamburgers, but nothing that would indicate that it's fake, like having red checker tablecloths, using wine flasks as decoration, straw mats, and napkins with a picture of a butcher on it. Have no fear, on the menu is also quinto quarto (the waste parts of animals that would be left to the peasants to eat), such as tripe and lampredotto (which is a form of tripe, or cow's stomach). You get real, strong, flavorful food here, meat still on the bone, Ossobucco (a bone marrow dish), cooked in the oven with spices, served with crusty bread to spread it on. Those who can really eat big can challenge themselves by trying the "elephant ear," which is a gigantic cutlet covered with fried potatoes. They have a limited wine list, which is the usual in Florence.

2. Ruggero
Average 30 euros for dinner.

You will have an authentic gastronomic experience and eat like a gourmet in the old style in a restaurant without any frills or pretentiousness, where it is always packed, the tables may be sticky, the bathrooms are cramped, and there is no place to park. But what you will remember is the meat, cut high with the bone, the fresh seasonal vegetables. This is a place for connoisseurs, where even traditional dishes like liver, steak, roast beef, tripe, boiled meats, and on Fridays cod and cuttlefish, all have a unique flavor. You eat as if you were still in, "once upon a time." You eat very well, you eat a lot, and for very little.

3. Il Magazzino
Average price 25 euros

Mission number one is trying to find this place, even though it's just a few steps from Ponte Vecchio. It has the best lampredotto in all of Florence, and it is the high temple for native Florentines when they go out to eat quinto quarto (see above, waste parts) of cows, sheep and pigs, such as tripe, and especially lampredotto. This place is a Florentine institution. You will not believe how light and delicate the lampredotto meatballs are, or the agnoloti (type of pasta) with lampredotto and sauce, squid, or fried tripe. Nice list of wines that can be ordered by the glass.

4. Borgo San Jacopo
Average 70 euros

The first thing you'll notice is the unique style. You'll feel like your in a design magazine. It's a little expensive for a list that is concerned about cost. But we are talking about value. Too bad it's not open for lunch anymore. The freshness, the knowledge that goes into preparation, the beautiful presentation. Not to mention, you will have a panoramic view of one of the most beautiful sites in the world (it looks down on the Arno, and Ponte Vecchio). It has incredibly refined antipasti of red shrimp, spinach pasatelli (type of pasta), calamari, mussels, and other shellfish, crisp vegetables. Desserts to die for, and great wine, with a focus on champagne.

5. Trattoria Mario
An article about food in Florence that doesn't mention Mario is impossible. Expect to wait because Mario is not a secret. It's well known, and they don't take reservations. Here's what to do. Go early, give them your name, then take a walk. We recommend the nearby Central Market and San Lorenzo church of Brunelleschi. The atmosphere is that of a classic Florentine osteria. They'll sit you wherever there's room, chat with the people around you (some communal tables), and maybe even share each other's wine. The menu is what you'd expect, but with an unbeatable price to performance ratio. Potato al pomodoro, ribollita, steak florentine, order it well done only if you are very courageous (It is only eaten rare. It's a breach in etiquette to order it well done, and would anger the chef. There's even a sign on the door that says, "E vietato chiedere la bistec Fiorentina ben cotto," meaning it is forbidden to request steak florentine well done), pork loin, and the beans of the day are impeccable, at a popular price. No frills, quick service, this is a place where they want to turn the tables over quickly, but don't be discouraged. If you've never eaten there before, put Mario in your address book.

Dissapore indicates that to properly credit the article, post the following:
[Crediti | Link: Dissapore, immagini: Eating with Ziggy, Dissapore, Scatti di Gusto]
CITT FIRENZE, LOW-COST, RAPPORTO QUALIT PREZZO, RISTORANTI

Last edited by Perche; Dec 4, 2016 at 2:25 am
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Old Dec 4, 2016, 7:19 am
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Thanks Perche. I mentioned a bit upthread about Google Translate doing a decent job with Dissapore - a lot of the color language doesn't translate since certain things don't really have literal translations to English, but the key points usually read well. That best-of article was next on my list to bring in, thank you for adding it. For the folks pulling it up and thinking it might be dated, the recommendations are all still valid according to me (which may not mean anything at all, but I sure do like food).

The only thing that always gets me is how many write about Trattoria Mario and not Sergio Gozzi. Mario is very good, but Gozzi is better, and it gets less ink. However, if you ask folks that live or work in Florence, that's where they'll send you for lunch. My first time there was by chance - a shop owner that I'm friendly with asked his friend to walk us over and told me I had to eat there.

I'd say 8 posts into the thread, though, that anyone going to Florence in the near future has more than enough of the city's best options to choose from. I am going back in January and will try to revisit many of these, but I we have to cover some new ground or my wife and daughter are going to smack me.
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Old Dec 4, 2016, 7:24 am
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Here is a very up to date article of chef recommendations on where to eat in Florence:

http://www.gamberorosso.it/it/food/1...ai-grandi-chef

Pasting it here for now, but I'll translate some and list out some highlights later today.
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Old Dec 4, 2016, 11:11 am
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Originally Posted by PWMTrav
Thanks Perche. I mentioned a bit upthread about Google Translate doing a decent job with Dissapore - a lot of the color language doesn't translate since certain things don't really have literal translations to English, but the key points usually read well.
^ Google translate can be funny. Sometimes I use it, then as a google translator, I edit the translation to improve it. You can sign up to do that. They really need it because there are a lot of mistakes due to the very different structures of the languages.

Yesterday, I checked how google translated the Dissapore article. There was the mention of, "orrechio d'elefante, which google translated into "oyster elephant," when it means elephant ear. It translated the word cotoletta into wiener schnitzel, when it actually means cutlet. Google translate is done by a voluntary international community that I'm part of, and is a hodge podge that can be helpful, but it can also be humorous.

Interestingly, German, and even Danish, share much the same grammatical rules with english. Italian grammar rules are very different, which is why it's a hard language to learn. After I spend time in Italy speaking Italian, I frequently have to rearrange my sentences in english when I'm back in the USA because I put what should be the second, dependent part of the sentence before the first, independent part, which is the normal structure in Italian.

You start doubting your spelling, especially words with double consonants, because you know it's important because you will get one thing if you say peperoni, another if you hold the p longer and say pepperoni, one thing if you say penne, another if you don't hold the n and say pene.

You involuntarily tell people to stop asking for a panini or a biscotti, or asking for an espresso. You can't decide whether to say Rome or Roma, Milan or Milano, Venice or Venezia, because you want to say things the correct way.

Something that caused me a lot of grief on the job recently in California, there is no sugar coating or beating around the bush in Italy. In english if you don't like something you tell your boss, "it's not a bad idea." In Italian it is perfectly acceptable to say, "this is garbage," or something like that.

You constantly have to correct yourself from saying words like, "extremely," "completely," "always," because in Italian everything is benissimo, bellisimo, grandisimo, constantly adding isimo to make everything sound extreme.

And then there are the idioms. In english, it is raining cats and dogs. If in Italy you say that, they will think you are nuts. Instead, they say it is raining sinks and bath tubs.

When someone has a habit of not picking up the check or buying you a drink, in english you say, "hey, it's your turn." In italian, you tell them they have short arms (that won't reach the pocket). Or you say, "Hey, do you have a crab in your pocket? (that keeps snatching back the money)"

These things are where google translate gets very funny. In english you would say, "you made your bed, now sleep in it." In Italian you say, "you got on the the bike, now you have to pedal."

When you want to tell a friend, "tell me the real truth, speak frankly," in italian you tell them to speak without hair on their tongue. In english if someone says something to you and you want to respond that it is of no consequence, you say, "it's not important." in italian you say, "I'll make a mustache out of it."

When someone is greedy, we say they want to have their cake and eat it too. In Italian you say, "you want your wine bottle to be full, but you want your wife to be drunk too."

In english if someone is facing a challenge, you say good luck. In Italian you wish somebody good luck by telling them that they are in the mouth of a wolf, and to get the good luck the person has to immediately respond, "let the wolf croak."

If somebody got disappointed, we tell them they were let down. In Italian you tell them, "you mistook a firefly for a lantern."

These differences in the language can be very funny with Google translate. Not only the words, but the grammatical structure between english and italian is so different that you cannot do word for word translation. Therefore, some say that google translate, with all it's imperfections, cannot be made any better than it is now, because you mostly have to paraphrase, and the meaning of the words thus become very imprecise.

I agree though, you can definitely get the sense of most things, and it is useful. You just have to have a little wariness.

Last edited by Perche; Dec 4, 2016 at 12:53 pm
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Old Dec 5, 2016, 8:06 pm
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Thanks for all the great info! I can't wait to get to Florence and start eating.

Do you have any suggestions for vegetarians? I eat everything (even abomasum ) but my wife won't touch meat or fish. I don't think she'll have much problem in Tuscany because, as far as I can tell, most restaurants will have at least one vegetarian pasta. But if you have any suggestions for a restaurant that has especially extensive and/or delicious vegetarian options, I'd love to hear about it.
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Old Dec 6, 2016, 11:38 am
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That's not going to be a problem. The over-emphasis on meat is one of the reasons why I'm not very fond of Florence. I used to be completely vegetarian for many years.

"Five Vegetarian and Vegan Restaurants in Florence Without Rival."
http://www.dissapore.com/grande-noti...-senza-rivali/

Also,
Il Sedano Allegro
La Raccolta
Dolce Vegan
Libreria Brac
Miso di Riso
Ruth's Kosher

And there are many, many more.
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Old Dec 7, 2016, 4:51 pm
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Great thread! – I have somewhat of a once-off question. I'm looking for a sit-down restaurant in Florence that might be open on New Years Day (1/1/2017) for dinner. The double-whammy of it is that New Years Day occurs on a Sunday also. Anyone have any recommendations? I've checked about 5 places so far and they're all closed on Sundays.

Thanks in advance!

Cheers,
Kermee
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Old Dec 11, 2016, 5:09 pm
  #15  
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I'll see what I can find you, but I am on vacation at the moment. It may not be until mid next week.
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