Has anybody taken this train before?

What is the best class of service?

I know the train departs Mumbai at around 7PM and takes 21 hours to reach Agra. Does anyone know the timings for the return journey?

Is the train safe?

Any hints for train travel in India? Not done it before

Thanks in advance for any advice!

I wouldn't do it by train, even if 1st ACC. (If you're going to do it, do it at least 1st ACC.) Flights on the low cost carriers between Bombay and Delhi are not too expensive -- and then just train/bus it to Agra. Air Deccan, Spice, Go, etc. Checkout www.makemytrip.com .

If you want an adventure...go for it...

Personally, I woould never travel on a train in India unless it is the "Palace on Wheels" -- I do not have a link--google it...

If this is out of your budget, then fly...trust me...you will hate the train experience...

I've traveled on a five hour first class AC trip in India and, we brought our own lunch and tried to avoid the definitely unclean bathrooms and it was OK, but I wouldn't consider a 21 hour trip. Previous posters are right, fly to Delhi and take the train from there.

Is train travel in India REALLY that bad?

OK .. I know I'm posh (usually travel SQ F) but I thought I could survive it!

Anyone got a positive word to say about the train?

Thanks to the posters above for your advice!

I've done a number of journeys on Indian Railways and quite enjoyed them. Have a look at the India pages on the excellent train travel site at www.seat61.com for a comprehensive description of what you can expect.

Well these guys must have scared the s**t out of you. Haven't they?? On positive side....It is not as bad as they say. But it can definitely be "an experience" for American / Europeans. Many Indian who live abroad for a while, find it hard to travel on trains due to time constrains and class complex. If I have time on hand, I will prefer train to Air anytime. When you travel by train you get see real India real people�good or bad is up to your judgment and perception.

First lesson these trains are similar to the trains you see in US / Europe. Most of the bogies are non air conditioned (Non AC). Only few (like AC 1st, AC II, AC III) are air conditioned. Many trains are dirty if you travel in "General class" (no AC - 2nd and unreserved) but consider the volume of people these trains carry each day!! AC II tier is acceptable. AC II tier and ACI 1st class are quite good and offer good service. The train you are talking about (# 2137) is called Punjab mail. The route it travels though is quite safe...I have myself traveled through that route numerous times when I was in India. This train has a foreign tourist quota too. Second lesson never leave your baggage, shoes, and other stuff unattended and unlocked. Keep it chained and locked to the seat. All the seats have provision for it. Carry a good lock with you and you can buy a cheap chain at any station in India. Don�t carry any expensive stuff in your bag like money, jewelry, camera etc. Keep minimum cash and more CC or traveler�s checks. But in AC 1st and AC II you will be quite safe.

When onboard, try tea at the railway stations if they are selling it in �earthen cups��it tastes great, safe to health and environment friendly�ceramic and plastic cups are no good.

If you take the train, sleep with your shoes on. My dirty, travel-worn and generally beaten-up sneakers were stolen from the foot of my bed while sleeping on an overnight goa-bombay train. I was in a 2nd class sleeper car, where there were no private berths. Other than that the experience was worthwhile -- everyone shared food and conversed with one another. I was surprised at this, but someone said "We are all each others brothers and sisters". It definitely felt that way. But for 21 hours, I'd fly.

Thanks to all for your comments .......

I will be travelling AC1 .. how safe is this? I will have a back pack (?!) do I need to bring my own chain/padlock? I will carry (and sleep with!) a small rucksack with all my personal belongings.

I'm really uncertain now ....... ?!

I have taken overnight trains from Agra/Varanasi (in AC II) and like tranmerechris and AA25 quite enjoy rail travel in India. Will be taking these trains again when in India this Dec/Jan with my family.
I haven't taken the train from Mumbai to Agra but if time is of the essence flying from Mumbai to Delhi on one of the domestic airlines is a good choice.
I flew Air Deccan from Delhi to Mumbai, Mumbai to Goa and Goa to Delhi 2 years back and would recommend them as a good low cost carrier--they were reliable, nice aircraft with no frills--no assigned seating etc.
I would then hire a car and driver to go from Delhi to Agra, it's only a few hours(about 3-ish if I remember correctly), not expensive (less than a flight) and when all is said and done it would probably take less time that flying from Delhi to Agra as you don't have to deal with getting to from airports etc. etc.
The only bit about train travel in India I don't like is getting on and off the train. The trains don't stop long, about 3 minutes on the routes I've taken, and it is chaotic with people pushing and shoving to get on and off at the same time. Good to have your belongings ready and be near the door when you reach your stop.
Love AA25's advice on the tea. Just listen for vendors saying chair, chai, chai..
Hope you have a great trip while in India.

AC1 will be fine. I did exactly this trip from Mumbai to Agra in February, no problem. You will be sharing, possibly mixed sex in a sleeper. At no time did I feel unsafe or uncomfortable. You will get a meal (choice of meat or veg). It's a great way to meet people and to see the countryside.

AC1 for my trip meant a lockable 4 berth, so the only worry would be the people in the cabin with you. No security issues at all really.

at these links

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be careful about the locks. While i haven't been on trains in india, and maybe don't know of which i speak, I've been on lots of trains in Russia. They have the same 4-berth locking cabins. however, the locks can be opened from outside by strong magnet and some other manipulations. In Russia, at least, a locked 4-berth cabin is not any more secure than having a door open. all import docs i put under my pillow and tie to my hand. even shoes have been stolen.

Depending on the time of year, be careful about the weather. Mumbai and Agra have quite different climates. In the heart of winter, Mumbai is still somewhat warm. Agra on the other hand, can be around 50F.

If you travel in air-conditioned cars, you might be in for a shock when you get off the train. I am saying this from experience. I took this train in the opposite direction many years ago as a tourist. I was wearing my coats as I got off in Mumbai, and the train ride had tired me out enough that I didn't notice that it was significantly warmer. I dropped to the ground and almost fainted as a result.

Do it and enjoy a culture experience. Let us know how it goes. Don't let some old scared westerners try to fool you out of it (I'm an American born Indian). Any idiot can fly and it won't be a special experience. While I've never done the route myself, I've done others, always in 1st class and usually AC and its been fun. It won't be a european train or anything brilliant like that, but whatever facilities an Indian train lacks will be made up for by the view, the noises, sights and the people. Isn't that why you're going to India anyways?