Well these guys must have scared the s**t out of you. Haven't they?? On positive side....It is not as bad as they say. But it can definitely be "an experience" for American / Europeans. Many Indian who live abroad for a while, find it hard to travel on trains due to time constrains and class complex. If I have time on hand, I will prefer train to Air anytime. When you travel by train you get see real India real people…good or bad is up to your judgment and perception.

First lesson these trains are similar to the trains you see in US / Europe. Most of the bogies are non air conditioned (Non AC). Only few (like AC 1st, AC II, AC III) are air conditioned. Many trains are dirty if you travel in "General class" (no AC - 2nd and unreserved) but consider the volume of people these trains carry each day!! AC II tier is acceptable. AC II tier and ACI 1st class are quite good and offer good service. The train you are talking about (# 2137) is called Punjab mail. The route it travels though is quite safe...I have myself traveled through that route numerous times when I was in India. This train has a foreign tourist quota too. Second lesson never leave your baggage, shoes, and other stuff unattended and unlocked. Keep it chained and locked to the seat. All the seats have provision for it. Carry a good lock with you and you can buy a cheap chain at any station in India. Don’t carry any expensive stuff in your bag like money, jewelry, camera etc. Keep minimum cash and more CC or traveler’s checks. But in AC 1st and AC II you will be quite safe.

When onboard, try tea at the railway stations if they are selling it in “earthen cups”…it tastes great, safe to health and environment friendly…ceramic and plastic cups are no good.