First time to Guatemala. Advice?
Apr 21, 2022, 3:06 pm
#1
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First time to Guatemala. Advice?
I'm thinking of booking a week-long trip to Guatemala City later this year. I'm looking to split my time between Antigua and Guatemala City. Is it possible to make Guatemala City my base and just take the hour-long trip to Antigua? I'm thinking of staying at the Hyatt Centric. Is the hotel easily accessible from the airport? Is public transit reliable, or should I hire a taxi/Uber? What's the entry requirement right now? I'm fully vaccinated and recently got my booster. I hope I won't have to take a rapid test to enter the country. Any other advice for a first-timer to Guatemala?
Apr 29, 2022, 9:11 am
#2
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I'd say base yourself in Antigua the whole week. Don't even bother with Guatemala City except for the airport. The capital is a big, noisy city without much to see or do. Antigua is the old colonial capital. It has charm and style and wonderful small inns and a great dining scene and lots of tourist sights. Antigua actually makes a better base for exploring. On the Thursday or Sunday you're there, you can go to the market in Chichicastenango, about two hours away. It's touristy, but I always find it to be great fun too.
Apr 30, 2022, 6:41 pm
#3
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I'd say base yourself in Antigua the whole week. Don't even bother with Guatemala City except for the airport. The capital is a big, noisy city without much to see or do. Antigua is the old colonial capital. It has charm and style and wonderful small inns and a great dining scene and lots of tourist sights. Antigua actually makes a better base for exploring. On the Thursday or Sunday you're there, you can go to the market in Chichicastenango, about two hours away. It's touristy, but I always find it to be great fun too.
Apr 30, 2022, 10:49 pm
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Antigua also puts you an hour from Panajachel and Lake Atitlan.
As for Chichicastenango, you can go there with a tour group on Thursday or Sunday market day. That's not as bad as it sounds. You travel in a minivan with a dozen or so other people. You all get picked up your hotels in Antigua. You arrive in Chichi mid-morning. The van parks and you are turned loose to go to the market on your own, which sprawls over blocks and blocks in the center of town. You meet back at the van at the appointed time, usually around 2 or 3 pm and head back to Antigua. You're not shopping with a guide or anything like that. If you have the choice, Sunday is more interesting because of the rituals taking place at the Santo Tomas church in the center of town, but Thursday is great too. I like M60toLGA's suggestion of spending a night or two.
As for Chichicastenango, you can go there with a tour group on Thursday or Sunday market day. That's not as bad as it sounds. You travel in a minivan with a dozen or so other people. You all get picked up your hotels in Antigua. You arrive in Chichi mid-morning. The van parks and you are turned loose to go to the market on your own, which sprawls over blocks and blocks in the center of town. You meet back at the van at the appointed time, usually around 2 or 3 pm and head back to Antigua. You're not shopping with a guide or anything like that. If you have the choice, Sunday is more interesting because of the rituals taking place at the Santo Tomas church in the center of town, but Thursday is great too. I like M60toLGA's suggestion of spending a night or two.
Jun 15, 2022, 7:29 am
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It depends on what you like -- if volcanoes are your thing Antigua is the best base, no doubt about it. I did like Anigua but it felt like a tourist trap, albeit one that must be tolerated.
I enjoy visiting archeological sites and Tikal, situated near Flores - to the east of Guatemala, near the Belize border was simply fabulous - perhaps the best mesoamerican site there is, barring Palanque or Calakmul. Like Anigua, Flores is a great touristy town, very european style with its alleys and colours, set inside a beautiful lake and have good connections with the Maya sites starting with Tikal. As a bonus you can also cross over to Belize in three hours and visit Xunantenich on the other side of the border.
I enjoy visiting archeological sites and Tikal, situated near Flores - to the east of Guatemala, near the Belize border was simply fabulous - perhaps the best mesoamerican site there is, barring Palanque or Calakmul. Like Anigua, Flores is a great touristy town, very european style with its alleys and colours, set inside a beautiful lake and have good connections with the Maya sites starting with Tikal. As a bonus you can also cross over to Belize in three hours and visit Xunantenich on the other side of the border.
Jul 4, 2023, 1:24 pm
#11
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Seeing as someone else has just resurrected this thread after a year...
Does anyone have any thoughts about visiting Lake Atitlán if one doesn't fall into the hippie/backpacker/partying demographic? It looks gorgeous, but so much of what I read about the area suggests that's the dominant vibe.
Are there places to go where I can enjoy the views of the lake and relax in quiet with a book, without thumping nightclubs or drum circles or whatever other nonsense? Any recommendations on towns/hotels that would fit the bill would be greatly appreciated.
I'd be going in early September, if that makes a difference.
Thanks!
Does anyone have any thoughts about visiting Lake Atitlán if one doesn't fall into the hippie/backpacker/partying demographic? It looks gorgeous, but so much of what I read about the area suggests that's the dominant vibe.
Are there places to go where I can enjoy the views of the lake and relax in quiet with a book, without thumping nightclubs or drum circles or whatever other nonsense? Any recommendations on towns/hotels that would fit the bill would be greatly appreciated.
I'd be going in early September, if that makes a difference.
Thanks!
Jul 7, 2023, 7:58 pm
#12
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Does anyone have any thoughts about visiting Lake Atitlán if one doesn't fall into the hippie/backpacker/partying demographic? It looks gorgeous, but so much of what I read about the area suggests that's the dominant vibe.
Are there places to go where I can enjoy the views of the lake and relax in quiet with a book, without thumping nightclubs or drum circles or whatever other nonsense? Any recommendations on towns/hotels that would fit the bill would be greatly appreciated.
Are there places to go where I can enjoy the views of the lake and relax in quiet with a book, without thumping nightclubs or drum circles or whatever other nonsense? Any recommendations on towns/hotels that would fit the bill would be greatly appreciated.
Starting at the 1:00 position on the lake and moving around clockwise: Whether you stay there or not, you’ll pass through Panajachel. It’s the lake’s “metropolis,” even though it is not its largest town. It sees the most visitors, and it's the hub for all transport. Tourist Pana centers around Calle Santander. The higher up the street you go, the more backpack-y, the more loud nightlife-y it is. Things quiet down and you find more grown-up lodgings the closer you get to the lake. Calle Santander has a lot of great restaurants and cafés. Hands down, it's the lake's best dining scene.
Santa Catarina Palopó (2:00 position) is only a few km south of Panajachel, and it can be easily reached by road rather than relying on boat transport across the lake. San Antonio Palopó (3:00 position) is just beyond Santa Catarina. Both are very colorful indigenous communities. Both have only upscale lodgings.
Santiago Atitlán (7:00 position) has the most indigenous influence of the villages. (Don’t call them “Indians.” It’s "indigenous" or indígena in Spanish.) It feels more traditional than other places around the lake. When you arrive, local children will run to you wanting to show you the Maya saint Maximón. His figure is kept inside a different house every year. Santiago suffered greatly during the government purges against the Maya in the 1980s. People here still greatly mistrust the government. You encounter that all over the Highlands, but it’s especially evident in Santiago.
San Pedro La Laguna (9:00 position) is trendy with the backpacker crowd. Lodgings, bars, and restaurants all cater to them. They all go there to study Spanish at a few schools in town. The things is, they all pack the bars at night and speak English to each other. I thought the whole point of studying a language in a foreign country was to practice outside of class. A very short distance away is San Juan La Laguna is a colorful market town. Most visitors do it as a daytrip.
New Agey San Marcos La Laguna (10:00 position) is where all the counterculture types have migrated. It’s big on yoga and vegan food and massage and crystals and tarot cards. You will feel out of place staying there if you are not like-minded.
I've skipped a few of the smaller places. These are the best known.
You may need to head into Panajachel for supplies or a quick dose of civilization, or you might want to see other villages. Larger scheduled boats run between Pana and Santiago. Elsewhere, you bop around by small boats that serve as water "buses" between towns or individual boat "taxis." Try to take care of any cross-lake transport in the morning. The wind picks up in the afternoon and the lake becomes markedly choppy.
No road completely circumnavigates the lake, and a couple sectors of the road that exist are not safe.
So, based on what you've said, I picture you in Santa Catarina Palopó. It's quiet and serene with a lot of local color. There's no backpacker scene. You could pop into Panajachel to shop or to go out to eat. Pana does have great dining. From Pana, you have the best lake links if you want to visit other towns. Santa Catarina gives you access to all the advantages of Pana, but it's classier and quieter.
Last edited by SJOGuy; Jul 7, 2023 at 8:15 pm
Jul 8, 2023, 10:17 am
#13
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If you Google LAKE ATITLAN VILLAGES, you'll find a few roundups of the different communities and what they are like. I'm pulling this info from a piece I wrote a few years ago, but it still applies. Each of the villages around the lake has its own vibe. It’s easy to escape the scene you wish to avoid.
Starting at the 1:00 position on the lake and moving around clockwise: Whether you stay there or not, you’ll pass through Panajachel. It’s the lake’s “metropolis,” even though it is not its largest town. It sees the most visitors, and it's the hub for all transport. Tourist Pana centers around Calle Santander. The higher up the street you go, the more backpack-y, the more loud nightlife-y it is. Things quiet down and you find more grown-up lodgings the closer you get to the lake. Calle Santander has a lot of great restaurants and cafés. Hands down, it's the lake's best dining scene.
Santa Catarina Palopó (2:00 position) is only a few km south of Panajachel, and it can be easily reached by road rather than relying on boat transport across the lake. San Antonio Palopó (3:00 position) is just beyond Santa Catarina. Both are very colorful indigenous communities. Both have only upscale lodgings.
Santiago Atitlán (7:00 position) has the most indigenous influence of the villages. (Don’t call them “Indians.” It’s "indigenous" or indígena in Spanish.) It feels more traditional than other places around the lake. When you arrive, local children will run to you wanting to show you the Maya saint Maximón. His figure is kept inside a different house every year. Santiago suffered greatly during the government purges against the Maya in the 1980s. People here still greatly mistrust the government. You encounter that all over the Highlands, but it’s especially evident in Santiago.
San Pedro La Laguna (9:00 position) is trendy with the backpacker crowd. Lodgings, bars, and restaurants all cater to them. They all go there to study Spanish at a few schools in town. The things is, they all pack the bars at night and speak English to each other. I thought the whole point of studying a language in a foreign country was to practice outside of class. A very short distance away is San Juan La Laguna is a colorful market town. Most visitors do it as a daytrip.
New Agey San Marcos La Laguna (10:00 position) is where all the counterculture types have migrated. It’s big on yoga and vegan food and massage and crystals and tarot cards. You will feel out of place staying there if you are not like-minded.
I've skipped a few of the smaller places. These are the best known.
You may need to head into Panajachel for supplies or a quick dose of civilization, or you might want to see other villages. Larger scheduled boats run between Pana and Santiago. Elsewhere, you bop around by small boats that serve as water "buses" between towns or individual boat "taxis." Try to take care of any cross-lake transport in the morning. The wind picks up in the afternoon and the lake becomes markedly choppy.
No road completely circumnavigates the lake, and a couple sectors of the road that exist are not safe.
So, based on what you've said, I picture you in Santa Catarina Palopó. It's quiet and serene with a lot of local color. There's no backpacker scene. You could pop into Panajachel to shop or to go out to eat. Pana does have great dining. From Pana, you have the best lake links if you want to visit other towns. Santa Catarina gives you access to all the advantages of Pana, but it's classier and quieter.
Starting at the 1:00 position on the lake and moving around clockwise: Whether you stay there or not, you’ll pass through Panajachel. It’s the lake’s “metropolis,” even though it is not its largest town. It sees the most visitors, and it's the hub for all transport. Tourist Pana centers around Calle Santander. The higher up the street you go, the more backpack-y, the more loud nightlife-y it is. Things quiet down and you find more grown-up lodgings the closer you get to the lake. Calle Santander has a lot of great restaurants and cafés. Hands down, it's the lake's best dining scene.
Santa Catarina Palopó (2:00 position) is only a few km south of Panajachel, and it can be easily reached by road rather than relying on boat transport across the lake. San Antonio Palopó (3:00 position) is just beyond Santa Catarina. Both are very colorful indigenous communities. Both have only upscale lodgings.
Santiago Atitlán (7:00 position) has the most indigenous influence of the villages. (Don’t call them “Indians.” It’s "indigenous" or indígena in Spanish.) It feels more traditional than other places around the lake. When you arrive, local children will run to you wanting to show you the Maya saint Maximón. His figure is kept inside a different house every year. Santiago suffered greatly during the government purges against the Maya in the 1980s. People here still greatly mistrust the government. You encounter that all over the Highlands, but it’s especially evident in Santiago.
San Pedro La Laguna (9:00 position) is trendy with the backpacker crowd. Lodgings, bars, and restaurants all cater to them. They all go there to study Spanish at a few schools in town. The things is, they all pack the bars at night and speak English to each other. I thought the whole point of studying a language in a foreign country was to practice outside of class. A very short distance away is San Juan La Laguna is a colorful market town. Most visitors do it as a daytrip.
New Agey San Marcos La Laguna (10:00 position) is where all the counterculture types have migrated. It’s big on yoga and vegan food and massage and crystals and tarot cards. You will feel out of place staying there if you are not like-minded.
I've skipped a few of the smaller places. These are the best known.
You may need to head into Panajachel for supplies or a quick dose of civilization, or you might want to see other villages. Larger scheduled boats run between Pana and Santiago. Elsewhere, you bop around by small boats that serve as water "buses" between towns or individual boat "taxis." Try to take care of any cross-lake transport in the morning. The wind picks up in the afternoon and the lake becomes markedly choppy.
No road completely circumnavigates the lake, and a couple sectors of the road that exist are not safe.
So, based on what you've said, I picture you in Santa Catarina Palopó. It's quiet and serene with a lot of local color. There's no backpacker scene. You could pop into Panajachel to shop or to go out to eat. Pana does have great dining. From Pana, you have the best lake links if you want to visit other towns. Santa Catarina gives you access to all the advantages of Pana, but it's classier and quieter.
One further question about transport - from what I read, it seems the public boats around the lake stop running around 5pm, which seems very early. How do people get around after that - say, if I stay in Santa Catarina and want to get dinner/drinks in Pana? I would assume there would be some kind of local transport or taxi available, right? Or would I have to hire a private boat?
Also, with regard to Pana, if I stay in an "adult," non-backpacker place by the lake, will it be reasonably quiet? Basically, I want to just know that if I'm staying in a nice hotel I won't have some disco blasting reggaeton next door until 3am. I've spent enough time in Latin America to know that's always a possibility, so that's why I'm asking.
Jul 9, 2023, 9:00 pm
#14
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The boat drivers all want to be back at their home base by nightfall, and it gets dark about 6 pm. There’s no Daylight Saving Time in Central America, remember, and the closer you get to the equator, the less seasonal variation you see in daylength the way you do at northern latitudes.
Santa Catarina Palopó is like 2-3 miles by road from Panajachel. You’d take a taxi, a vehicular taxi, by road.
Santa Catarina Palopó is like 2-3 miles by road from Panajachel. You’d take a taxi, a vehicular taxi, by road.
Jul 9, 2023, 11:54 pm
#15
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The boat drivers all want to be back at their home base by nightfall, and it gets dark about 6 pm. There’s no Daylight Saving Time in Central America, remember, and the closer you get to the equator, the less seasonal variation you see in daylength the way you do at northern latitudes.
Santa Catarina Palopó is like 2-3 miles by road from Panajachel. You’d take a taxi, a vehicular taxi, by road.
Santa Catarina Palopó is like 2-3 miles by road from Panajachel. You’d take a taxi, a vehicular taxi, by road.