AA_ORDlady

We just returned and we really loved Caye Caulker---confident we made the right choice over Ambergris, for us.

The island is small, charming, very inexpensive eating/drinking. Very easy to walk around or ride a bike. You don't need any dress clothes as all the restaurants are open air. Lots of younger back-packers but also plenty of couples.

We stayed in Weezie's penthouse which was just as pictured. BUT---be aware of the sargassum issue. It is pretty smelly at times and was worse on the east side of the island. The only downside of the penthouse is that the verandah, which has lovely ocean views, has no shade. This rendered it useless during the day so we lounged at the pool or the end of the dock (both have some shade if you need it). I would choose a second floor unit over the penthouse so that you have shaded verandah.
All the units include 5 gallon purified water dispensers for drinking so no need to be buying and lugging water bottles. Bring a plastic to-go cup---they only have glass in the units.
The units are very nice, well-maintained and the staff is lovely. Daily maid service was excellent. 24 hour coffee room on the first floor but no laundry facilities.
Weezie's is a 10 minute walk to Errolyn's for fryjacks, about 20 minute walk to restaurants closer to the split. Also well-located if you fly in/out of CC--maybe 100 yards from airstrip. We walked with our roller boards from Weezies to airport in 2 minutes.

Air service BZE to Caye Caulker just resumed in September 2018 (Tropic Air) and we paid US$79/pp for one way tickets back to BZE (10 minute flight). We took the ferry over and it was a 30 minute taxi ride from BZE to ferry terminal, and then one hour on the ferry (no A/C and crowded). Made for a long transfer. Do the flights if schedules and budget allow.
Bring plenty of high-DEET insect repellent---the sand flies are really, really aggressive.

Excursions were very reasonable---US$70 for all day snorkel trip with 3 stops, equipment, lunch, plus ceviche and unlimited rum drinks on the way back. We also did a flight over the Blue Hole which was spectacular.

Ceres

Thank you, so much for the detailed review. We have red tide here so I know the smell you are talking about.