(This seemed more appropriate in the Asia forum than as a trip report, since Sumo is so very Japanese.)

The title of "Yokozuna" is reserved for the highest ranking wrestlers in Sumo, and is usually translated as "grand champion." There have been only about 70 people awarded the title of "Yokozuna" in the 300 year+ history of Sumo, and yesterday at the New York Grill restaurant at the Park Hyatt Tokyo, I had lunch with one of them -- Yokozuna Musashimaru, who grew up in Hawaii and will be officially retiring on October 2.

Musashimaru arrived right on time. He was wearing a nice (but very large) Hawaiian shirt, which set a relaxed tone for the luncheon.

He is a charming fellow, pleasant and friendly, easy to talk to. This is ironic because when he is in the ring, he is all business -- I am sure his opponents, big men all, found him imposing and maybe even scary.

This lunch was arranged by a friend, an American artist named Lynn Matsuoka who has probably been more closely involved with sumo for the past thirty years than anyone outside of the higher ranks of the Sumo Association. Lynn's paintings of sumo wrestlers adorn virtually every modern book published on sumo.

"You'll have to ask Lynn the reason behind the various traditions, like tossing salt prior to the match," Musashimaru said, in response to an early question. "All I know how to do is wrestle." I suppose that if you know how to wrestle as well as Musashimaru, that is more than sufficient!

When lunch's main course came, the clever folks at the New York Grill subtly served Musashimaru a steak that was at least twice as large as each of the rest of us got. It was a good idea, since he finished it all -- possibly sparing some of the dessert buffet as a result.

As I noted earlier, Musashimaru officially retires on October 2. Tickets will soon go on sale for the unique ceremony, which starts at 11:30 am in Tokyo's Sumo stadium. I'm going to make it a point to be there, as I expect it will be quite an event.

That is incredibly cool and I'm envious.

I saw one of Musashimaru's tournament wins in Tokyo about 6 years ago, when he was still an Ozeki. That was my first visit to a sumo match although I'd enjoyed the bilingual broadcasts while visiting Tokyo. It was a very exciting tournament since he didn't clinch until the final day. I was with one other American and it was a great deal of fun being able to root for an American wrestler.

I happened to be in Tokyo last week and went to the tournament one day. Asashoryu lost that day although he ended up winning the tournament.

When I was dining at Nobu (Tokyo) around a year ago, Konishiki was there that night but, I didn't speak to him. I hope I get the same chance you did one of these days...

Konishiki is an exception to the rule for retired sumo wrestlers. Retired wrestlers usually stay in the business by starting their own heya (literally=room) which is a sumo stable. But Konishiki now hosts the popular daytime NHK kids show Nihongo de Asobou of which both my kids are big fans.

The OP is a lucky guy indeed.

In Hawaii, Konishiki (Salevaa Atisanoe - Samoan) is viewed as the most benevolent and giving of the sumotori from Hawaii. He is involved in numerous projects to help disadvantaged children and even paid for a trip to Japan by a few dozen of these kids several years ago.

Akebono (Chad Rowan - Hawaiian) is the most happy go lucky, totally at ease and happiest with the laid back Hawaiian lifestyle of Waimanalo. Musashimaru (Fiumlau Penitani - Samoan) is the most serious and determined of the three.

Of course all three wrestlers owe the beginning of their careers to Takamiyama (Jessie Kuhaulua - Hawaiian), who was the first Hawaii born sumotori in the late 1960s, and currently runs his own stable. Takamiyama began the steady recruitment of young men from Hawaii as sumotori.

Musashimaru may be the most serious of the three, but he was certainly relaxed during our lunch. I asked him how he preferred I should refer to him, and he said "Fi" right away! Also, he brought along a friend from Hawaii named Eric (who everyone calls "Fats" even though he isn't really) who started in Sumo but had to quit for medical reasons, and Eric was a really nice guy too.

Since Lynn Matsuoka has known Musashimaru for many years, having her present undoubtedly contributed to the laid-back environment. Indeed, my impression is that everyone at the table including my Japanese colleagues (and also Musashimaru's manager who was there too) seemed to have a good time. I know that I did!

Kind of funny watching the other people in the restaurant pretend they didn't notice our group. I might get tired of that if I was a celebrity, but Musashimaru handled all the 'looks' very gracefully as well. He is a true Champion.

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This trip, my kids wanted to see Sumo and it was in Nagoya, so we secured tix and used our expiring JR passes for one last round trip.

Early in the morning, we went to see training at Musashimaru's heya (sumo training area, generally called a "stable" in English). This is early in the morning and absolutely free. It is a wonderful thing to see, and Musashimarui himself was there as well -- indeed, he was kind enough to offer us his car and driver for a ride back to our Nagoya hotel.

Later on, we went to see Sumo in Nagoya and while the "Aichi Prefectural Gymnasium" where it is held isn't nearly as nice as the Tokyo arena, it is much more down-to-earth. In particular, all those old lady cops who, in Tokyo, shoo you away from anyplace interesting were nowhere to be seen. As a result, it is much easier to wander around various portions of the arena. We were again able to have a brief chat with Yokozuna Musashimaru.

The Musashigawa stable trains somewhere in Nakano when in Tokyo. If you are going to be in Tokyo, I STRONGLY recommend getting up early to go see them train. The training is very tough. I am sure JNTO can tell you how to find the various stables to go watch.

Sounds like an excellent visit.

How are the facilities used by the heyas in Nagoya? Are they purpose-built sumo ones used for that purpose year round, or temporary ones?

Very courteous of Musashimaru to offer his car. I imagine it is a full-size vehicle

The Musashigawa heya in Nagoya is actually part of a Buddhist temple modified for that purpose, and the wrestlers use a large basement room as a dorm. And yeah, Musashimaru's car is a rather larger mini-van!