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Old Jul 3, 2006, 2:00 pm
  #1  
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Argentina Itinerary Help?

We (wife and I) are planning a Nov 2006 trip to Argentina. We pretty much have 11 full days (arrive AM on 11/12 and return PM on 11/22).

We'd like to visit three places (1) BA, (2) Iguazu, and (3) somewhere in Patagonia -- (we're having difficulty deciding).

I thought we could spend two nights at the Sheraton in Iguazu at the beginning or end, but they only have one night available (already sold out for much of November). I then thought we could fly in early on day 1 and leave late on day 2, but I can't seem to get the flights to work on Aerolineas or LAN if we were to come to Iguazu from somewhere in Patagonia. Any suggestions?

Neither of us have been to SA before -- are we biting off more than we can chew?

(as an FYI, I've waded through much, but not all, of the threads in this forum, so if this is a repeat post, I apologize).

Any help appreciated!
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Old Jul 3, 2006, 6:40 pm
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My wife and I did a few weeks in South America back in 2002 -- went Rio to Iguacu/Iguazu to Buenos Aires to San Carlos de Bariloche to Puerto Montt to Santiago. Our overall trip was a few weeks, but we spent less time in Argentina than you have, so you have time to visit all these places.

If you spend the first several days in Buenos Aires, and then go to Iguazu on a 9:45 AM flight, you should be able to catch the 14:05 flight back the next day to AEP and connect to flights south in Patagonia (i.e. BRC - though not sure if San Carlos de Bariloche is actually Patagonia -- but we liked it there). For Iguazu, we flew into the Brazil side one day, spent time over there, crossed the border, stayed at the Sheraton one night, and then caught a 4 PM flight to AEP during our visit. I had wished for a few more hours on the Argentina side (slept in too late), but if you stay on the Argentina side I think 24 hours there is enough.

Part of our trip was a two day lake crossing from Bariloche to Puerto Montt that was awesome - they also offer a one day version of it (http://www.crucedelagos.cl/index_flash.htm).

Are you locked into returning from Buenes Aires? If not, you could do this crossing and spend a few days in southern Chile before heading back from Santiago (and maybe even get to Punta Arenas via a flight, though that is probably pushing it). It is also possible to connect back through SCL to EZE from any of the southern Chile cities, though that also takes up a good half day of flying.

Another idea to consider -- we also did a one day trip to Colonia, Uruguay, on the high speed Catamaran (http://www.buquebus.com). Makes a good day trip from BA if time allows.
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Old Jul 3, 2006, 7:12 pm
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We did BA-Iguazu-Patagonia in 12-13 days and it felt okay. Of course, you could spend more time in any place, but that itinerary shouldn't feel too rushed.

We spent 3 full days in Iguazu -- more than most people do -- but we thought it was time well spent. We went to the Argentine and Brazilian sides and then spent a day biking on the trails near the Sheraton and lounging around. I guess it depends how much you like nature and waterfalls. You could do Iguazu in 1 day, but I think that would feel very rushed. And personally I find it a bit harder to get the ambiance of a spectacular natural area when it's sandwiched between 2 plane flights Your opinion may vary.

For Patagonia, you could spend a few days or a month. I would HIGHLY recommend that you see the Perito Moreno glacier (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perito_Moreno_Glacier) and that if you can afford it you stay at a place called Los Notros. (http://www.losnotros.com) (warning: there is sound once the file loads, so don't look at work... )

Patagonia is actually not a state, it's an area that covers both Argentina and Chile (like "the Amazon" or "the Alps"). There are a couple of natural/easy crossing points between the 2 countries, and knowing these will make your trip much easier. Bariloche is not in Patagonia, it is in the Lakes District. It is one of the main crossing points between Argentina and Chile.

This is an amazing area of the world and if you like nature, you will want to go back no matter how long you stay. I've done 2 trips to this area of the world and would be happy to share my thoughts/hints. PM me with your phone number and I can give you a call -- I'm on the west coast of the US (in spite of my FT handle).

Last edited by KSinNYC; Jul 3, 2006 at 7:23 pm Reason: confirm Lakes District title on Argentina side
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Old Jul 3, 2006, 7:31 pm
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Originally Posted by dbuckho
If you spend the first several days in Buenos Aires, and then go to Iguazu on a 9:45 AM flight, you should be able to catch the 14:05 flight back the next day to AEP and connect to flights south in Patagonia (i.e. BRC - though not sure if San Carlos de Bariloche is actually Patagonia -- but we liked it there).
Thanks both for your very helpful posts.

These were the flights we were considering (possibly an earlier flight from AEP), but weren't sure whether that was enough time in Iguazu. It seems that the latest one can leave Iguazu on 11/19 to get to anywhere south of BA on the same day is 1PM. I'll keep messing around with the flights....

We realize Patagonia is huge, which makes it almost silly just to visit one small part of it....
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Old Jul 3, 2006, 11:22 pm
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Sounds like a great trip!
BA is fantastic loads of good leather shopping and great places to eat (if you like meat, meat and more meat!). I highly recommend a trip to the delta. It’s a day trip out of BA but its fantastic. Argentina’s version of Venice ^ ! Make sure to do the water taxi trip and don’t forget to haggle over price
Also there is a great Cuban restaurant down by the docks in BA which is a must (Cant remember the name right now)

Iguaçu is amazing! Pay the extra for water fall views at the Sheraton and don’t forget to pack a good rain coat! Make sure you take the trip down the river and under the falls.

I had 6 days in BA could of had another 2 years! and 2 days in Iguacu may another 1 or to would have been great but not much more.

I wish I could go back today! I am planning another trip to Argentina in 2 years
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Old Jul 4, 2006, 5:05 am
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Originally Posted by haveric
We'd like to visit three places (1) BA, (2) Iguazu, and (3) somewhere in Patagonia -- (we're having difficulty deciding).

Any help appreciated!
You've certainly got time to go somewhere in Patagonia, but as the others have said, it's quite a large area, and you need to narrow it down a little.

Bariloche/Lake district is lovely in itself but it's not really Patagonia - it's got trees for a start

Patagonia itself is quite windy and desolate for the most part - there's great hiking around Calafate/Chalten, and obviously the Perito Moreno glacier, but otherwise it's generally great landscapes rather than real 'wow' stuff. There's a load of lakes, not just in the lake district - we crossed Lago General Carrera which is an incredible blue colour from the Andean glacial run-off which fills it. The size and the distance between places means that if you want to go to Patagonia proper then you need to fly down to Calafate and base yourself there. However, unless you're keen hikers or riders, there's probably only a couple or three days worth of things to see/do - the glacier, walk in the woods, evening eating great pizza and drinking cheap beer in El Rancho .

Personally I would think that Bariloche would be a better base for a few days if you're not hikers - there's loads of organised excursions (white water rafting, cycling, riding again, etc) but it's also quite a big town set on a very pretty lake and surrounded by lots more very pretty lakes.

Have a great time whatever you do - we spent six weeks in Argentina a couple of years ago and loved every steak-filled minute

Last edited by Stewie Mac; Jul 4, 2006 at 5:15 am Reason: speeling, of course
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Old Jul 4, 2006, 3:54 pm
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Iguaçu is the part of the falls in Brasil - perhaps 20%. Iguazú is the Argentine portion, the vast majority. The Sheraton is the place to stay - as soon as the park opens you are there, and you will not have to pay two days' entry fees (only when you arrive to proceed to the hotel.) There is splendid walking and wonderful views - start early and you will see flocks of parrots, some toucans, monkeys... but by the time the tour busses arrive and take the train into the park, they will start to fade away; they do begin to come back just before the park closes, and the Sheraton is at the park margin - much closer than the entry block.

I'm with KSinNYC on this one - we spent three nights, and enjoyed the walks, the forest, etc. etc. and one day in Brasil (they may wave the $100 reciprocity fee for a visa if you are just spending the day at the Brazilian side of the falls - the falls, the bird park and perhaps the helicopter ride are the things to do, and watch for the aggressive coatimundis - they will bite you and slash your backpack if they detect food on you or in your things. The trick is to visit Iguazú weekdays, and avoid the crowds on the weekends and holidays.

Patagonia is huge - and we don't know what you like. The more spectacular mountain areas include the Perito Moreno glacier... but another interesting place to consider is Punta Tombo with its enormous penguin colonies, orca whales, rheas and guanacos, etc. Again it depends on what you like - Argentina also has spectacular wine country, and some could easily spend a week in Bs. As. sightseeing and doing day trips to Tigre, to nearby Colonia del Sacramento in Uruguay, the trip to Iguazú, a gaucho celebration at a nearby finca with its attendant dancing, gobs of open-fire cooked meat, etc.

IMO investing in a book or two would give you some good ideas, and allow you to express your preferences - we will definitely express ours!
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Old Jul 5, 2006, 11:23 am
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I would skip El Chalten unless you plan to hike. The mountain's often hidden in the clouds. It's also a long drive on loose (and in some places, deep) gravel road there if you drive.

El Calafate is good for the glaceir cruise and going to Perito Moreno. Check on the weather forecast before you buy cruise tickets though. Don't forget the pictograms between town and the airport (FTE). AR has flights that leave from EZE which may be good for your schedule.

As for Los Notros, only worth it if you plan to partake in all the included outdoor activities.

It'll be too early to see penguins at Punto Tomba in November. They start to nest between December and leave by mid March when the chicks are grown and ready to venture out on their own. Highly recommended though if you're there over the austral summer.

Could always go to Peninsula Valdes but try to be at Punto Norte durng high tide (orca attack).
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Old Jul 6, 2006, 5:55 am
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Without any doubts, and being a local, you must go for:
VILLA LA ANGOSTURA
IGUAZU FALLS
CALAFATE (where the glacier Perito Moreno is located)

Of course, there are a number of other amazing provinces such as: Wine Route in Mendoza, the provinces of Salta and Jujuy in the north (not so hot in Nov) but MY first choice is Villa La Angostura without any doubts. I have travelled extensively and consider it to be one of the nicest places on earth.

Check also for GAUCHO100K posts, since he knows travelling around Argentina quite well.

If you need any help PM me
Bye
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Old Jul 10, 2006, 4:42 pm
  #10  
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Thanks everyone for your help.

I think we're going to try and do 3-4 days in Calafate / Chalten; 4-5 days in BA; and 2 days (1 night) in Iguazu.

We're going to go straight from BA to Calafate -- seems to be the best way. Can anyone recommend a travel agent / tour guide / company in Calafate Chalten that leads a short (2-3) trek/hike? I've found a lot of info about daylong excursions and 2-week trips, but nothing in the middle.

Thanks.
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Old Jul 11, 2006, 2:40 am
  #11  
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Be aware that El Chalten is about a 3-4 hour drive from Calafate along ripio roads (crushed impacted gravel). If you're only there for 3-4 days, then a trip to Chalten is going to take up 2 x halves of those days.

Chalten is set up for individual hiking more than Calafate - you just walk out of town and you're in the park and practically in the hills at the base of FitzRoy. Calafate on the other hand is both larger and also a decent distance from nice hiking (unless you're staying at Los Notros).

Be careful at Calafate though - the local geography means that the weather can change very quickly - when we were there it went from sunny and still to 50 foot vis (in cloud), raining and very windy within an hour. Sorry, can't help with guides, etc for hiking around there - we just went off by ourselves.

My view would be that if you really want to go hiking (and you have some experience) then head up to Chalten - if you just want to have some nice walks, then stay around Calafate.

Either way, have a great trip.
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Old Jul 11, 2006, 5:58 am
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Originally Posted by StewieMac
Be aware that El Chalten is about a 3-4 hour drive from Calafate along ripio roads (crushed impacted gravel). If you're only there for 3-4 days, then a trip to Chalten is going to take up 2 x halves of those days.

Chalten is set up for individual hiking more than Calafate - you just walk out of town and you're in the park and practically in the hills at the base of FitzRoy. Calafate on the other hand is both larger and also a decent distance from nice hiking (unless you're staying at Los Notros).

Be careful at Calafate though - the local geography means that the weather can change very quickly - when we were there it went from sunny and still to 50 foot vis (in cloud), raining and very windy within an hour. Sorry, can't help with guides, etc for hiking around there - we just went off by ourselves.

My view would be that if you really want to go hiking (and you have some experience) then head up to Chalten - if you just want to have some nice walks, then stay around Calafate.

Either way, have a great trip.

Thanks for the advice. As of now, we're going to arrive El Calafate in the afternoon, so we can take the 18:30 bus to El Chalten, and spend two full days there, taking a bus back early on the third day or late on the second day, and then have a day in El Calafate to see the glacier, before flying out that night.

We'll see if it works out. I've also read some rumors on other sites that the road between the two is being paved, which may speed the journey.
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