johan rebel

Well, it is a question of knowing what you've got. Leopards are tricky to hold on to, but most other species will remain within the fenced area. This does make it easier to see desirable species, which can also be overstocked, i.e. at population levels larger than the area's carrying capacity. The main downside is that surprises are far and few between compared to a more natural area. Once you have seen the local lion pride, you are not likely to suddenly come upon some nomadic males, for example. So the game is definitely canned, but the game drives do not necessarily feel all that canned. At least not more than at the really top Sabi-Sand lodges where they keep such a good tab on desirable animals that game drives become choreographed events where you drive from one sighting to the other.

On the positive side, Kapama guarantees exclusivity, as they do not share their traversing with other lodges.

Kapama's own lodges now have me a bit confused. I've stayed at Buffalo Camp, which is really nice as long as you avoid the chalet in the parking lot, but back then it was the only lodge in the whole big block, except for Lion's Den. There was also the Rhino Inn restaurant, where they used to bus in big groups for dinner, followed by a night drive. This has apperently been replaced by River Lodge, which has almost 200 beds. That's scary.

I know that Kapama Karula is on the Klaserie River, with Guernsey Road running parallel to and east of the river.

Thornybush is entirely fenced, even though it borders the Timbavati to the east. The total area is some 16,000 hectares, which is big enough for most animal populations to behave quite naturally. They intentionally have too few elephants (which makes the reserve botanically much more interesting), and far too many rhinos. The lion population has to be closely managed, which is rather tricky. At times they have too few, at other times too many. The Timbavati is open to Kruger, as is Sabi-Sands.


I would say that the average run-of-the-mill safari guests who are mainly interested in seeing the larger animals, i.e. the big & hairy and fangs & claws, won't really notice the difference. They will be pleased and satisfied if they are shown the animals they always wanted to see nice and close and within reasonable time. The more discerning game viewer should definitely go for an area as natural as possible, which means that purists will need to look elsewhere than South Africa. All game reserves and national parks are intesively managed, even large ones like Kruger. Controlled burning, tar roads, cutlines, powerlines, firebreaks, dams, pumped waterholes, you name it.

Johan

Gardyloo

I've been to Madikwe twice and have not seen them. "You should have been here yesterday," is the stock answer.

SafariCraig

good one gardyloo. that seems to be the answer i get often on cheetahs.

the wild dog we saw at madikwe this summer were all on the fenceline.

craig beal - owner - travel beyond

iahphx

Thanks for the tips, guys. Johan, I've sent you a PM.

EDIT: As Johan knows from the PMs, I've purchased my family's tickets to Jo'burg and have begun planning my Kruger safari! We're also trying to figure out what else we should see in eastern South Africa. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

BTW, is there one guidebook for South Africa that stands out as "the best" for me to read?

Also, I see another poster started a very similar thread immediately after I started this one. Perhaps the moderators would like to consolidate?

flyersky1

I'm planning a self-drive safari March 29-April 4. It's my first time in Africa. Which one is better for game viewing and smaller crowds?

JDiver

Fantastic wild dog information; thanks!

Also, for those who are experienced travellers, a self-guided drive tour to Etosha in Namibia, with arrangements made at the different Namibia Wildlife Resorts within the park and numerous close-by private lodges, can be quite a good wildlife viewing experience. And now, there is even a new Dolomite Lodge in the previously closed western side (Dolomietpunt waterhole), possibly open now.

(Even at the lodge - at Okaukuejo some years ago, we saw the older lioness expelled from her pride who took up residence under a snag by the waterhole; a German guy who ignored the "never sleep outdoors" fell asleep viewing at the waterhole "wall" and she took him.)

We definitely have enjoyed Namibia and its offerings, and there's lots to see plus amazing wildlife (and it's great to travel beyond Etosha).

flyersky1

I've been studying Fodor's "The Complete African Safari Planner" and it's been quite helpful so far. It lists March and April as shoulder seasons for Krueger and April as high season for Etosha, and I'm just not sure which one would be better during this particular time.

johan rebel

Etosha is definitely a dry season destination, and at its best just before the summer rains start, i.e. October. Etosha and Kruger are about the same size, but the former has far fewer camps and a far more limited road network. Camps are roads are focused on waterholes, and the areas where game move in summer are largely inacessible. You can drive through Etosha in summer without seeing a single elephant.

March/April is the end of the rainy season, and assuming precipitation has been at least average (last summer was very wet), there should be plenty of water around and the game well spread out.

Etosha attracts only a fraction of the number of visitors that Kruger does, but since the roads are few and vehicles tend to congragate at waterholes it can still feel quite busy.

Kruger has the same dry and wet seasons as Etosha, but far higher game numbers, more species of game, and an extensive road network. That makes it easier to find and see animals in the rainy season.

Johan

flyersky1

Johan, thanks for the detailed response. I think Kruger makes more sense. Is there any other park in SA that would dominate Kruger at that time, for a self-drive?

FC flyer

We will be in CapeTown in January for 4 days, and would like an idea for a wildlife day trip with overnight. We have been doing a lot of reading, and everyone suggests something different. We would like to self tour. Thanks for any suggestions.

johan rebel

No, there is not. Kruger is in a class of its own by virtue of its size. The only other park that comes anywhere close is Addo. Most other National Parks are self-drive destinations, but much smaller and cater more to special interests, as many of them conserve specific habitats or landscapes. In addition to the National Parks you have those in KwaZulu-Natal, which are run by the provincial conservation authority, for historical reasons. The larger ones that cater for self-drive visitors are Hluhluwe-Umfolozi, Mkuze and Ithala, but these are all tiny compared to Kruger.

Johan

flyersky1

Great. Thanks again! Last questions - I have about 2 weeks in SA, and have devoted a week to safari (the rest is 5 days in CPT and 2 in Victoria Falls). Should I then devote all 7 days to Kruger, or 4 days in Kruger and 2 in Hluhluwe-Umfolozi plus a day for travel between the two (and quickly seeing Durban)? Is my overall trip well-balanced?

johan rebel

I don't think Hluhluwe-Umfolozi is sufficiently different from Kruger to warrant a detour, so unless you are going to KwaZulu-Natal anyway, the answer is no. As for Durban, I'm not sure what there is to see. Rather concentrate on Kruger. Seven days will give you time to see quite a bit of Kruger's diversity (it really is big), with only four days you would either be racing around, or concentrating on a small area.

Johan

worldiswide

We too are planning first south african experience and really value all the comments and advice on this thread. There are so many choices.

Our party is four experienced traveler adults. One couple has done an a/k kenya safari 10 or so years and were happy with the experience. Other couple doesnt need/want that level of accomodation. We are locked into dates at this point since we have secured air and we only have 10 days.

Travel is early Dec 2012. Flights are into and out of JNB. Major interests are to see Victoria Falls, historical/political sights of SA, CPT with safari experience as a secondary but 'like to include' experience. I read the thread about chobe vs kruger if we only have a couple of days, but the thread is several years old so Im looking for more up to date information.

We arrive early in the am in JNB and leave 10 days later about 10pm.

Questions:
Is it best to go directly to Vic Falls?
How many night days do we need there? OR
start in CPT and end up in Vic Falls eight or nine days later and fly directly to JNB on last day?
The wildlife reserve north of CPT sounded a little different experience as well? thoughts or suggestions?
Safari Craig mentioned face to face planning. Do you think that really makes a difference?


Thanks for all your advice as we plan this adventure.

johan rebel

The thing about the Western Cape game reserves is that they are located in an area where a lot of the iconic or quintessentially African species do not naturally occur, and never did occur. For commercial reasons these reserves nevertheless stock species such as giraffe, impala, white rhino etc., which makes them a bit like zoos. Furthermore, these reserves have mostly been established recently on former farmland, which has been badly degraded as the result of centuries of bad farming practises. In short, these reserves are anything but "wild" or "natural". The least artificial reserves, e.g. Bushmans Kloof, Bontebok National Park, are small and only have some of the species that originally occurred in the area.

Since Victoria Falls and Chobe are in close proximity, it makes sense to combine the two. Bear in mind, however, that December is the rainy season, and Chobe is at its best at the end of the dry season (October/November), which is when the river attracts the greatest numbers of game.

Kruger is further from Johannesburg that Chobe is from Victoria Falls, but the numerous fly-in options to commercial airports and lodge airstrips make it easy to get to.

Johan