Mats

An Arkia original at the Eilat Airport

My apartment overlooks the very edge of Sde Dov, Tel Aviv’s small, municipal airport. The airfield is named after Dov Hoz, a pioneer of Israeli aviation. In the typical cute Israeli style, the airport is referred to by the first name, just as we call “Teddy Stadium” after long-time Jerusalem mayor Teddy Kollek.

Dov Airport is soon to be closed. It is on valuable land overlooking the Mediterranean with housing developers begging to take it over.

There are a handful of flights to Rosh Pina and Haifa, but the majority of flights are to Eilat. I can’t imagine flying to Haifa; it’s a very quick train trip from here. And I’m not overburdened with excitement to go to Rosh Pina.

I watch planes take off and land from Dov all day long, and I couldn’t overlook a chance to try it out. Impulsivity won me over, and I made an impromptu trip.

There are two choices of airlines: Arkia and Israir. Six of one; half dozen of the other. The fares are the same and quite cheap. Arkia owns two Embraer 190-series planes, and I really just picked Arkia arbitrarily. The ticket was USD$140-something round trip, including taxes and an upgrade to “Arkia Business.” Because—well—we all have to fly in business class on a 30 minute flight. That’s just common sense.

Arkia is actually almost old as Israel. It was founded by El Al and the Histadrut (trade unions). It was eventually bought by the owners of Jordache. Fitting with the blue jeans history, the Embraer 190 I flew was originally from “Denim Air.”

Walking to the Airport
It seemed absurd to take a taxi. I had walked by what I assumed to be the entrance to the airport many times, and it is a pleasant walk along the Israeli National Trail.


The beautiful walk to the airport


Or not.

The place that I assumed to be an entrance is actually just for cargo and operations. The soldiers guarding it were laughing because neither one knew how to get to the passenger entrance. They were making fun of each other and wished me luck.

It turns out that the passenger entrance is on the opposite side of the airfield. It’s not a long walk, but I was getting anxious about missing my flight or the check-in deadline.

Conspicuous Traveller
I don’t know what I was thinking, but I wore long pants and a fancy collared shirt. And I wasn’t sure if they would want my passport or national ID. I screwed up on all fronts. I looked out of the ordinary: sweating, anxious, and overdressed. And I used my passport for a domestic flight. Oops. OOPS!

The security woman was at a loss for words. She started to ask the usual questions, and then she said, “I’m sorry. I lost track.”

Then she and her supervisor tag-teamed with a barrage of questions, mostly trying to prove that I’m really Jewish and/or catch me in a lie.

They would ask in Hebrew and in English. They asked where my mother lives, and I explained that she had passed away. The supervisor asked, ”What prayer did you say when your mother died?” Holy @#$!. Wow! This was not a cultural misunderstanding nor a language gap. This was profound insensitivity.

I know; they’re in their early twenties and just out of the army, but that is not a normal question to ask. If I was in true Israeli form, a nudnik, I would have snapped back. But I kept my cool and my manners. I once had an immigration woman at Ben Gurion Airport ask why my grandmother had died. Last month the woman asked me if I could prove that I had not been in Africa in the passed three weeks. No, I could not prove that!

I’d heard stories of El Al and Israel Airports Authority staff asking for the date of one’s Bar Mitzvah (I can tell you the year and maybe month, but I have no idea of the date of the ceremony.) I’d never been asked anything like that. Usually just a few questions and I’m done. An Israeli friend told me that his Israeli cousin once had to write out a written declaration at Dov Airport. I sort of wonder if it’s the “B-Team” working over there, with the more savvy security people at Ben Gurion Airport.

Insensitive questions over, I had my bags x-rayed. Amusingly, one has access to checked bags after they have been screened. So it’s strangely insecure.

My bags and body were of no interest, and liquids are not restricted here. I went right to the check-in counter, where a pleasant woman told me not to worry.

Mysteriously, my bag was checked to “SDV,” which is Dov Airport, not “ETH” for Eilat. The woman said, “We just go by the number, not the letters.” I was a bit dubious, but I saw that others had the same tag.

I glanced at my sad, cash register receipt boarding card. I glanced at it again. And again. And I finally went back to the counter and asked if this was indeed a business class seat (22A didn’t seem business-like on an Embraer.) The woman was very apologetic, calling me “Chamood” (“sweetheart,”) and said, “I’m glad you asked!” She had to call some office to reassign me, but it was no problem.

The departure lounge was small, cramped, and hot, and most people were eager to get out.

Arkia IZ819
Tel Aviv/Sde Dov-Eilat
Seat 2E
ERJ-190AR “Rafi Harlev”
Boarding was what one would expect: unmitigated chaos. People pushed and shoved, filling up three busses to get to the hardstand. There was a seemingly endless bus ride, possibly to Syria, to get to the plane.


ERJ-190 boarding at Sde Dov


But all was forgiven once on board. The cabin crew were calm, warm, and smiling. The plane itself was spotless (Arkia leased it just last year.) They managed to get everyone onboard quickly and without a struggle.

Despite the 30-minute flight time, passengers had a choice of drinks (including beer), as well as a choice between a sandwich of Bulgarian cheese or tuna. The sandwiches were catered by CaféCafé, which is a reputable chain, and they just happen to have a branch inside the Dov Airport terminal. The Bulgarian cheese sandwich was very fresh and very good, served with a side of cucumbers, olives, and carrots as well as a dark chocolate granola bar. Again, why is this not possible in the US?

There were three crew on board, rather than the usual two in the US. So service was very attentive, and there were many offers for refills, second helpings, and newspapers.

Within minutes, we were descending over what appears to be the moon. I’ve never actually been to the moon, and lunar landings all took place in a TV studio, but it sure looks like what I imagine the moon to resemble. I have only ever driven to Eilat, so it was remarkable from the air.

Arrival at Eilat Aiport was very easy since planes—even the 757-300—park right in front of the terminal. Despite the odd luggage tag, my bag arrived without a problem.


Arriving at Eilat Airport



Dan Hotel Eilat
I hemmed and hawed over hotel reviews. I never know whether I should trust the web. I fumbled between the adjacent Hilton and Dan Hotels. Although I have “status” with Hilton, the reviews were unkind at best. And I knew that the Dan had an excellent reputation. So I decided not to overthink it, and chose the Dan.

Security indignities be gone, I was delighted. I had an amazing room with views of Aqaba, Jordan, Saudi Arabia off into the distance, and the Sinai was off to my right. The room was large and comfortable, with a pleasant deck to take in the view.


View from my room at the Dan Eilat


Another view from my deck. That is Aqaba, Jordan and Saudi Arabia off in the distance.


Salt water and vitamin D on the Red Sea

I had access to the “King David Lounge,” which has a pleasant array of food, an open bar, and amazing staff. The lounge sadly closes a bit early at 20:00. But it really meant that I had full room and board: a massive Israeli breakfast in the morning then the lounge for an early evening meal. It was perfect.

Eilat is a tad tacky, and I wasn’t there to go shopping. There is no sales tax in Eilat, but they jack up the prices, so there is no real point. Also, I had nothing I needed to buy.

So I stayed at the hotel and its beachfront. I met a number of nice couples, read, swam, and—well—I hit it off very well with one of the other hotel guests, thereby breaking the monotony for a bit. A nice, unexpected diversion.

I had wanted to take a day trip to Petra, Jordan, but I really was kind of tired and didn’t want to deal with any security nightmares due to a Jordanian stamp in my passport. Although it probably would have been fine, I chose to stay in Eilat this time.

Politically-Minded Guests
There were a handful of guests from the USA at the Dan. And I’d run into this issue last month in Amsterdam, and a couple of years ago in Vancouver. I’m not sure why guards are left down or diplomacy is ignored, but I found it unnerving that cordial hotel chit chat seemed to be an opportunity for other guests to express their unwavering political beliefs… beliefs that differ from my own.

In two cases, the comments were deeply racist. It’s hard to know what to say. I’m not one to debate or argue much, but it is offensive. Maybe it’s alcohol, being out of one’s element, or perhaps these people would have no boundaries elsewhere. It’s just kind of a shock to my more sensitive approach to talking with people I do not know. I choose not to get into some debate; I just figured out ways to extricate myself.

Back to the Airport
Although the Eilat Airport is walking distance, I chose to take a taxi for NIS 20. I really don’t think anyone would have noticed. The terminal was empty, and I wisely wore shorts and used my national ID card.

The security guy had only three questions, and then joked about how he was supposed to ask if I had a nail file (mashof tsipornaim.) We wondered who needs to do their nails on a 30-minute flight. He chuckled and wished me a good trip home.

The Arkia agent wasn’t exactly cheerful, but there were no issues. The security checkpoint itself had nobody in line, and it was very, very fast and friendly.

The Eilat Airport is also not going to be around for long. It is to be replaced by a new airport in Timna. But it’s not so bad: much nicer than Sde Dov. It’s far less crowded.

We boarded about 10 or 15 minutes after I reached the departure lounge, and boarding was much quicker since no busses were required.

Arkia IZ1816
Eilat-Tel Aviv/Sde Dov
Seat 2C
ERJ-195LR “David Ben Gurion”
The two crew serving the Business Class cabin were once again excellent: friendly, laughing, and joking. One of them had a comically heavy Russian accent when she spoke in Hebrew, but she was very kind and attentive.

Takeoff was almost immediate, and we made the quick flight over the moonscape.

Service was once again a choice of tuna or Bulgarian cheese with great care and warmth extended to passengers.

The landing was incredibly beautiful. The plane circled over the south end of the Tel Aviv beaches, descending just next to my apartment to Sde Dov.

The bus situation was much quicker, and we were inside the terminal within five minutes. Bags took another two or three minutes, including respect for a “priority” tag.


Arriving at Tel Aviv/Sde Dov

Walking Home
I couldn’t resist. I knew the way better. And it’s the holiday of Lag B’Omer, so I walked past the little bonfires that one is supposed to light. Within 30 minutes of landing, I was home. A taxi would have been fast, but this was still kind of cool.

Until next time.

SanDiego1K

I loved your title. It got me to read a thoroughly enjoyable trip report. I was amused at all the challenges you had to get to the airport, and then bemused at the security questions. Oh, my, the prayer you said when you lost your mother? I'm glad that overall it was a delightful trip despite some boorish travelers you met enroute. Well done to walk home.

farbster

What a different TR. Thanks for doing this!

SanDiego1K - most any Jew would know the prayer. I'm guessing they ask that to trip someone up to say they weren't Jewish.

I remember we stayed in Eilat a few years ago. I was tasked with finding the place for dinner and I promptly refused. Why would I want to take the blame when someone else didn't like the chosen restaurant. A few of us, including my wife, went to the concierge (Dan Hotel) and inquired. Just 10 minutes before I think he was the bellboy. Anyway, we were between a meat place and a fish place. We had a hard time picking and the bellboy/concierge was no help. We finally selected the meat place and walked to the restaurant. As it turns out, the two restaurants were the same or adjacent or something. You could order from either place with no problem. Now why the concierge didn't tell us that?

Yoshi212

Good report, you should do PR for them though it doesn't sound like they have anything bad to defend.

Out of curiosity, was the return in business automatic or did you have to have the seat adjusted as in the outbound?

I had 2 Bar Mitzvah (US & Israeli) and I couldn't tell you which month either was in.

If they asked me the prayer I said when my grandmother passed I think I'd be kicked out of the country but my grandmother would have laughed as I envisioned her doing when I said it.

Mats

Yoshi212,
I was automatically in business class on the return. The agent yelled over to his colleague, "I have another one in business." I'm not entirely sure how their system works (or doesn't work.)

I'm willing to bet money that I had a much more religious upbringing that Mr. and Miss Airport Security. And I would dare them to recite the prayer for mourning. Betcha they know the first two words. Check minus.

floridagal23

Thanks for the report. My parents will be staying at the Dan in a few weeks.

Did they have beach chairs readily available?

Mats

floridagal23,
I hope your parents have a terrific trip!
The chairs and towels are easily arranged. The hotel gives guests a card for towels, and there are attendants on the beach to handle everything. It was relatively quiet at the beach, so there was no need to haggle or show up at early hours or anything. It was all quite flexible and very easy.

Yoshi212

Much like my Haftarah I have Yizkor memorized or maybe even engrained in my DNA.

Wonder if all flight operations from SDV will be moved to TLV. Arkia already has flights from TLV to Eilat but to my knowledge Israir does not have any operations at TLV.

Wouldn't mind to see a Star Alliance tie in also. They already code share with Brussels Airline.

Mats

Yoshi212,
Indeed the plan is to have everything at Ben Gurion.

Sde Dov will just be left to commercial developers.

Israir does fly from NATBAG to Eilat and some European destinations (Nice, Bucharest.)

Esltroy

Lovely trip report.

It really makes me miss international airlines that really offer first class service.

Thank you. I too live over a flight path and have often walked to the airport. It feels so good to walk to and from the airport. Although I have gotten strange looks as I drag my suitcase.

Centurion

I applaud Israel for asking questions that others countries are afraid to ask. At least Israel has real security

moops380

Good read. There are lots of airports in the US that will be sold off to developers, but it will take a long time for that to come. The MOON!

DanielW

Great TR, Mats.

To be able to see four different countries from your hotel balcony must have been cool!

Cymbo

Most interesting! You have a delightful writing style.

DanishFlyer

Great trip report, very entertaining - thank you!

I remember my confirmation date only because it was also the day of the Chernobyl disaster.

DanishFlyer